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December 5, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘Great Stone Church’

On October 23, 1819, the Pioneer Company of the American Protestant missionaries set sail on the Thaddeus for Hawai‘i – (two Ordained Preachers, Hiram & Sybil Bingham and Asa and Lucy Thurston; two Teachers, Samuel & Mercy Whitney and Samuel & Mary Ruggles; a Doctor, Thomas & Lucia Holman; a Printer, Elisha & Maria Loomis; and a Farmer, Daniel Chamberlain (and his family.)

With the missionaries were four Hawaiian students from the Foreign Mission School, Thomas Hopu, William Kanui, John Honoliʻi and Humehume. They arrived in Kailua-Kona on April 4, 1820. On May 3, 1820, Ruggles and Whitney took Humehume home to Kauai.

“Visited the king (Kaumuali‘i) and read to him in his Bible. He expresses an earnest desire to know all that is contained in the Bible, saying frequently, I want to understand it; and when you learn my language I shall know it.”

“He often says he wants Atooi (Kauai) to be like America. Today he told me he would support all the mission family if they would come to Atooi—that he would build as many school-houses as we wished, and a large meeting-house, and have a sabbath day and have prayers and singing.” (Ruggles, May 16, 1820)

Kaumuali‘i gave land for the first mission building. This land was on the east side of the Waimea River near the Russian Fort and included enough farmland to grow the food needed for sustaining the mission. The first building was a thatched structure.

After ten years of using the thatched structure, Reverend Samuel Whitney constructed a stone and mud building on the present site of the church. Unfortunately, the stone walls were not soundly stacked and the building toppled over and had to be rebuilt. (Waimea UCC)

In 1846 the Reverend George Berkeley Rowell came from the Waioli Mission to rebuild the stone church. He was an architect and cabinetmaker as well as a pastor. He planned for a grand church that would be the most beautiful building on the island.

The lehua timbers for the roof would be cut down with stone adzes from the steep cliffs of Koke’e and floated in the ocean to treat the wood against termites. (Waimea UCC)

The Great Stone Church was constructed of local sandstone. Its simple rectangular plan is capped by a gable roof with returns, surmounted by a truncated steeple. (SAH)

Limestone blocks would be cut from a ledge about a mile away and dragged to the site by oxen. Mortar was made by diving into the sea a dozen fathoms from canoes to bring up coral to be crushed and burned in a limekiln.

The church members earned money by raising and shipping potatoes to people who had come to California to search for gold. With this new source of income, the work on the church continued.

After seven years of planning and labor, the walls went up in 1853. The building was completed in 1854 (except for the floor, added in 1858), and was dedicated with a worship service.

The building was built in Victorian style as can be noted in the large pointed arches of the windows. The coral-colored exterior stood out and could be seen from some distance at sea.

However the church has become more russet colored over time because of the staining effect of the red earth in the area. The completed church attained a bell that had been created in 1836 for the original stone structure and shipped from New England.

The inscription reads from Psalm 100: “E hele mai imua o kona ale me ke oli ana i ike oukou o Jehova oia no ke akua” (Come before His presence with singing that you may know Jehovah is God). (Waimea UCC)

Rowell presided over it until 1865, when he was suspended from the Hawaiian Evangelical Association on account of his suspect theological positions and reports that he had had illicit relations with a Hawaiian woman.

A number of Hawaiians stood by Rowell, and the pastor and his congregation tried to hold control over the stone church. However, the Hawaii Supreme Court ruled against them and, in 1867, Rowell and his followers formed the Waimea Hawaiian Church, building a Victorian frame church at the corner of Kaumualii Highway and Halepule Road.

Rowell continued as its pastor until his death in 1884. In 1992 Hurricane Iniki collapsed this charming building; the congregation rebuilt it along the lines of the original.

Following Rowell’s discharge, the Great Stone Church’s congregation greatly declined, and between 1873 and 1889 it had no regular minister. It became the Waimea Foreign Church in 1894.

The church was remodeled around 1920, with the belfry being rebuilt and the openings given shallow Gothic arches. Hurricane Iniki decimated the roof and, in turn, the interior, leading to its restoration in 1993. (SAH)

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Waimea UCC
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Waimea UCC-AlanRichards

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings Tagged With: Waimea UCC, Great Stone Church, Hawaii, Kauai, Waimea, Kaumualii, George Rowell, Samuel Whitney

June 1, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Gulick – Rowell House

In 1828, three new missionaries arrived at Waimea, Kauai, to aid the Reverend and Mrs. Samuel Whitney in the operation of the missionary station there. The new arrivals were the Reverend and Mrs. Peter Gulick (and their infant son), and Miss Maria Ogden. (NPS)

Peter Johnson Gulick (1797 – 1877) and his wife, Fanny Hinckley Thomas Gulick (1798 – 1883,) sailed with the Third Company of ABCFM missionaries from Boston on November 3, 1827 aboard the ship Parthian, and reached Honolulu on March 30, 1828, a voyage of 148 days. (Gulick)

Gulick was born in Freehold, Monmouth Co, New Jersey, March 12, 1797. His father John Gulick (Hulick, or Ulick, as some of his kindred wrote the name) was of Dutch extraction.

“Shortly after I was of age, I went again to N. Y. & was in the employ of the widdow Corwin, with whom I had formerly lived. This woman, Mrs. Corwin, first suggested to me the ideas of studying, & preparing for the ministry.”

“In the fall of 1825, I entered the Princeton Theol. Semy. where Drs. Alexander & Miller & proffessor Chas. Hodge then taught. There I spent two very happy years”.

“Near the close of my second year in the Semy. I was licensed, by the Presbytery of N. Brunswick as an evangelist to preach the Gospel; & on Sep. 5 1827, was married to … Miss (Fanny Hinckley) Thomas.” (Gulick) They then sailed to Hawai‘i.

The governor of Kauai, Kaikioʻewa, prepared a native house for them, of poles and thatching, but including a board floor. Within a year, the Reverend Gulick began the construction of a more substantial home for his family. He used coral limestone for the foundation and walls, this being cut from offshore reefs by Hawaiian workers and floated ashore.

Gulick’s Waimea home is a simple, and functional structure, yet well-proportioned with well-crafted detailing. It is an excellent example of a New England approach to residential architecture adapted to the Hawaiian climate.

He paid his Hawaiian assistants in goats, Bibles, textbooks, and other articles out of the “common stock” of the Honolulu preserved as well as one of the finest examples of early missionary residences on Kauai. (The Gulicks were stationed at Waimea, Kauai, 1828 – 1835, then were sent to Kōloa, 1835 -1843.)

The Gulick family occupied the house as soon as they could, although work continued on it. However, in 1834, they were transferred to Koloa, another mission station on Kauai, and for twelve years, the home stood unoccupied, except for the few occasions that needy Hawaiian families were housed there.

(Following their Kauai service, the Gulicks were transferred to Kaluaʻaha, 1843 – 1846 where he was superintendent of Molokai schools; then to Waialua, O‘ahu 1846 – 1857; and in 1857 retired to live in Honolulu. In 1874 the Gulicks left Hawaii to live with their son, Orramel, a missionary in Kobe, Japan.)

In 1846, the Revered George Berkeley Rowell (1815-1884) and his wife, Malvina Jerusha Chapin Rowell (1816-1901) (of the Tenth Company of missionaries) were transferred from the Waioli Mission on Kauai to Waimea, where they moved into the former Gulick home (that had been vacant since the Gulick’s left.)

Rowell, the son of Joseph and Hannah (Chase) Rowell, was born at Cornish, New Hampshire, January 22, 1815, and was prepared for college at Kimball Union Academy, Meriden, NH.

He entered Amherst in the fall of 1832, but absence from college during the third year delayed his graduation till 1837. The next four years were spent in the study of theology at Andover Seminary, and October 27, 1841, he was ordained as a foreign missionary at Cornish, NH. George and Malvina married on January 22, 1842, and sailed from Boston in May, 1842, for the Hawaiian Islands.

Reverend Rowell, a carpenter and cabinetmaker, substantially rebuilt the house, adding the rear end, all the woodwork for the verandahs, and a new roof. Rowell also made most of the furnishings for the house.

After first putting doors and windows in one room to ensure a degree of privacy from their curious parishioners, the Rowells rebuilt the house, then added to it as their family grew.

The Rowells remained at Waimea in the home until 1865. After that the home was occupied by various plantation manager’s families from the local sugar cultivation operations. Each made their share of alterations or improvements, but the end result was not a significant departure from the original design. (NPS)

Recently, the house was purchased by Jim Ballantine, a 4th generation West Kauai resident with the goal of setting up a non-profit organization to work in partnership with established community groups and local non-profits insure the survival of Gulick Rowell Hale Puna and prepare it for its third century as a valuable asset for the community of West Kauai.

HalePuna.org’s mission is to restore Gulick Rowell Hale Puna. Once restored, the house and working farm will provide for the conservation and study of the historically significant property.

The house will be used as a community center for presenting events and performances that contribute to the cultural fabric of West Kauai life and celebrate the building’s unique place in our community. (halepuna-org)

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Gulick-Rowell House Waimea, Kauai
Gulick-Rowell House Waimea, Kauai

Filed Under: Buildings Tagged With: George Rowell, American Protestant Missionaries, Samuel Whitney, Hawaii, Gulick, Missionaries, Kauai, Waimea, American Board of Commissioners of Foreign Missions, Peter Johnson Gulick

March 29, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wai‘oli Mission

In 1834, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM) sent Reverend William P Alexander to scout the north coast of Kauai for a suitable location for a second station (the first started in 1820 at Waimea.)

A pole and thatch meetinghouse was constructed by Hawaiians on the Mission Hall site, in anticipation of the arrival of the missionaries.

Alexander chose the Hanalei area because of its harbor, fertile soil, and needs of the people. The site was called Waioli, ‘Singing Waters.’

Deborah Kapule, the dowager Queen of Kauai and earnest convert, assisted in establishing the Mission. Governor Kaikioewa of Kauai provided the land, and encouraged the Mission in many ways.

The first thatch church was destroyed by fire in 1834, just prior to the arrival of the Alexanders. He immediately built another similar structure.

Alexander and his wife and son began work immediately, preaching to hundreds of islanders in a huge thatched meeting house while living in a small grass hut. They began their secular teaching also, and could soon report that 1,232 of their students could read and 257 could write.

The Alexanders carried on alone with their work until 1837 when the Board of Commissioners sent a teaching couple, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Johnson, to the mission. In the meantime, the Alexanders built a frame house for their growing family.

The Johnson’s took over the bulk of the teaching duties and began to place more of an emphasis on educating the children rather than the adults. (Alexander had earlier noted a drop in enthusiasm for schooling among the older parishioners.)

To help make ends meet, the mission planted crops in land donated by the Governor of Kauai. The students helped cultivate the crops, and by so doing, learned agricultural techniques. Cotton was tried without much success. Sugar cane proved much more suitable.

In 1838, a frame house was built for the Johnsons, as their grass hut had fallen victim to the elements. Plans were also made for the construction of a frame church/meeting house. Materials were collected, and the sugar crop was earmarked to help pay construction costs. (NPS)

In 1841, Rev. Alexander dedicated the present old Waioli Hui‘ia Church. Shortly after the church was dedicated, a belfry was constructed behind the main structure. Its architecture is similar, and it stands twenty-four feet in height.

The old Church is an imposing structure, with a main interior space of 35 by 70 feet. An open lanai (porch) surrounds the building on three sides, with wood posts supporting the eaves of the tall, high-pitched roof.

The pitch is broken over the plate line with a lesser slope above the lanai. This type of roof is a modified copy of the type of roof used in early Hawaiian structures. The original roof was thatch, later replaced by shingles then galvanized iron, then back to shingles, which now cover it.

In 1843, the Alexanders were transferred to the Lahaina station due to illness, and Rev. and Mrs. George Rowell took their place. In the meantime, Mr. Johnson, concerned about the slowness of the Lahainaluna High School in turning out native teachers, began classes of his own to train them.

Additional land was cultivated to meet expenses. Shortly after this, the Hawaiian government began to take more control of education, and Wai‘oli Mission School became a ‘select school.’

One feature of this was that the most promising students were taught English. Wai‘oli sent several students to the Lahainaluna High School for advanced education, and many trained by Mr. Johnson took over teaching duties in the common schools on Kauai.

In 1846, Rowell and his wife were transferred to Waimea and Johnson was licensed to become the minister at Wai‘oli. Mr and Mrs Abner Wilcox and their four boys were sent from O‘ahu to take over the teaching duties.

Wilcox was to “raise up teachers for the common schools of the island and to prepare those who may go from our Island to the High School”.

While carrying out his teaching duties, he also managed the growing agricultural enterprises of the mission, which by now included taro, yams, potatoes, beans, corn, and bananas. The produce was sold to passing vessels to help the mission meet expenses.

By mid-century, most of the people in the Islands had received some sort of Christian instruction, and they were further advanced in the eyes of the missionaries than any other Pacific islanders.

Because of this, the ABCFM began to withdraw support of the Hawaiian Missions. In 1863, they transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association. (NPS)

As the center of mission activities on the Hanalei side of Kauai, Wai‘oli Church and Mission House played an important role in the history of that part of the island.

Presently, the old Waioli Church is the oldest (1841) church on the Island of Kauai and the whole mission complex is retained in excellent, livable condition despite its age and the deteriorating effects of the weather on Kauai. It was later used as a social hall.

In 1912, a new Wai‘oli Church building was given by three sons of Abner Wilcox; Sam, George and Albert. This shingled church, built in the American Gothic architectural style, has a belfry tower which houses the old Mission Bell.

This bell was rung throughout the years, calling people to worship. In 1921 the Wilcox descendants restored the Mission House and the Mission Hall.

The Wai‘oli Church grew under the guidance of the Hawaiian ministers. By 1945, the Wanini Church and the Ha‘ena Church had joined the Wai‘oli Church to form the Wai`oli Hui‘ia Church. (Hanalei Church)

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Old Waioli Church
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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Place Names Tagged With: Abner Wilcox, Waioli Church, Hawaii, Kauai, Waioli, Waioli Mission, William P Alexander, Hanalei . Waioli Huiia Church, Edward Johnson, George Rowell

Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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