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March 22, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Halehui

After the Battle of Nu’uanu, in the summer of 1795, Kamehameha’s chiefs and followers populated Honolulu.

In those days, the area around today’s Honolulu Harbor was not called Honolulu. Instead, each land section had its own name. This area was oftentimes referenced as “Kou.”

In 1804, Kamehameha I first lived at Waikīkī, but then moved near the Pākākā canoe landing in 1809. This area was then referred to as Halehui Palace Complex.

This complex was located at what is today approximately just Ewa of Fort and Queen Streets.

The complex was surrounded on the mauka and Diamond Head sides by a fence, it consisted of many houses, for Kamehameha, Ka‘ahumanu and other chiefesses, and for his Gods and his personal attendants.

Close by were two drilling sites and a “foot racing” and maika field, where the king kept a personal eye on the performances of his warriors and chiefs.

The Hale Mua (men’s eating house) was the largest thatch building. The next largest building was the Hale ‘Aina (women’s eating house). Ka‘ahumanu, and others with her, slept in three small buildings nearby.

Next, along the beach of Kuloloia, was the home of the chiefess Nāmāhana, mother of Ka‘ahumanu; that of Liliha, mother of Keōpūolani, Kamehameha’s sacred wife and mother of Kamehameha’s II and III.

Then came the residence of Kalanimoku, the king’s prime minister – known to the foreigners as “Billy Pitt.”

Other buildings nearby included a storage house, powder magazine, guardhouse, attendant houses, a battery of 16 carriage guns and two extensive stone storehouses for the King’s western goods.

At Kamehameha’s request, O‘ahu governor Kuihelani gave Don Francisco Paula de Marin a waterfront holding of about two acres.

Marin, a Spaniard who arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1793 or 1794 and had become a confidante of Kamehameha, recorded in his journal, “In the end of 1809 and beginning of 1810 I was employed building a stone house for the King” (Honolulu’s first permanent building.)

This was the first stone structure in Honolulu, a town that, by 1810, was “a village of several hundred native dwellings centered around the grass houses of Kamehameha on Pākākā Point near the foot of what is now Fort Street. Of the sixty white residents on O‘ahu, nearly all lived in the village, and many were in the service of the king.”

It is unclear whether Kamehameha himself ever resided in the completed house.

The left section of the map (where Nu‘uanu Stream empties into the harbor) identifies the area known as Kapu‘ukolo; this is “where white men and such dwelt.”

Building in Honolulu, however, continued quickly with Marin and other foreign residents building their own stone houses and buildings during the ensuing decade.

A system of trails led from the village. In the Diamond Head direction, one path led from the homes of Kamehameha, Kalanimoku, Kīnaʻu and others partially across modern Kakaʻako to Kālia (in Waikīkī.).

A second series of trails followed modern South King Street before branching off in Pāwa‘a to Waikīkī, Waialae and areas now generally East Mānoa and Mānoa Roads.

The Ewa bound path passed the homes of Kamehameha, chiefs and Marin, and followed the Diamond Head side of Nu‘uanu Stream before passing into Kapālama and taking the route of the Moanalua Freeway into ‘Aiea.

Honolulu appeared as shown here for only a short while; in the latter part of 1812, Kamehameha and most of his Court, including Liholiho, went to Hawai‘i to the Kamakahonu Royal Center, where he remained until his death in 1819.

The map image (a portion of the Ii-Rockwood map from UH at Mānoa, Hamilton Library) notes the Kamehameha compound and surrounding associated uses that made up the Halehui Palace Complex in the 1810 time frame.

Again, the Pākākā area of this complex was located at what is today approximately just Ewa of Fort and Queen Streets – the reef was filled in and land added to form what is now Aloha Tower and surrounding uses.

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'Port_of_Honolulu'_by_Louis_Choris-1816
‘Port_of_Honolulu’_by_Louis_Choris-1816
Maika Field-1810-Map over Google Earth
Maika Field-1810-Map over Google Earth
Downtown_Honolulu_Map-1810
Downtown_Honolulu-sites-uses_noted-1870_roads_in_red-Map-1810
Honolulu_Map-(1810)-over_GoogleEarth
Honolulu_Map-(1810)-over_GoogleEarth

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Buildings Tagged With: Hawaii, Honolulu, Downtown Honolulu, Kamehameha, Halehui

March 19, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waikīkī Aquarium

In 1888, the animal-powered tramcar service of Hawaiian Tramways ran track from downtown to Waikīkī. In 1900, the Tramways was taken over by the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co (HRT.) HRT initially operated electrically powered streetcars on tracks through Honolulu streets. Power came from overhead wires.

Its “land” component included investments into the construction and operation of the Honolulu Aquarium (now the Waikīkī Aquarium), a popular attraction at the end of the Waikiki streetcar line.

“The company’s service extends to Waikiki beach, the famous and popular resort of the Hawaiian and tourist, and where the aquarium, the property of the company, is one of the great objects of attraction.”

“Kapiolani Park, the Bishop Museum, the Kahauki Military Post, the Royal Mausoleum, Oahu College and the Manoa and Nuuanu valleys are reached by the lines of this company.” (Overland Monthly, 1909)

The beginnings of aquarium history can be traced back to the 1820s. Through the mid-1800s aquariums displayed rarely exceeded ten gallons, a size used often today in homes and offices. In the United States, the first public aquarium opened in Boston in 1859.

The Waikīkī Aquarium opened on March 19, 1904; it is the third oldest aquarium in the United States. Its adjacent neighbor on Waikīkī Beach is the Natatorium War Memorial.

Then known as the Honolulu Aquarium, it was established as a commercial venture by the Honolulu Rapid Transit and Land Company, who wished to “show the world the riches of Hawaii’s reefs”.

The Aquarium opened with 35 tanks and 400 marine organisms, and during its first year, the internationally renowned biologist David Starr Jordan proclaimed it as having the finest collection of fishes in the world.

Considered state-of-the-art at that time, the Aquarium also received positive comments from such notable visitors of that era as William Jennings Bryan and Jack London. (Waikiki Aquarium)

For its first 15 years the aquarium operated as a privately financed institution, with display animals collected by local fishermen.

It was also a practical objective of using the Aquarium as a means of enticing passengers to ride to the end of the new trolley line in Kapi‘olani Park, where the Aquarium was located. (The trolley terminus was across Kalākaua Avenue from the Aquarium, near the current tennis courts.)

Many in the community hoped that the Honolulu Aquarium would help develop a flagging tourism industry with the Aquarium serving as a “point of interest.”

Author Jack London called it a “wonderful orgy of color and form” from which he had to tear himself away after each visit.

When the property lease expired in 1919, the Cooke Estate ceded the Aquarium’s property lease to the Territory of Hawai‘i, and the newly formed University of Hawai‘i assumed administration of the Aquarium and the laboratory.

During these early years (1919 – 1973) admissions to the Aquarium were deposited to the State General Fund and did not return to the Aquarium for upkeep.

It was renamed the Waikīkī Aquarium following its reconstruction in 1955.

Compounding the financial and maintenance difficulties was the moving of the research function of the Aquarium to two new University institutions: the Hawaii Institute of Marine Biology (HIMB) at Coconut Island in Kāne‘ohe Bay, and the Pacific Biomedical Research Center.

In 1975, when Dr. Leighton Taylor was appointed the third Director many positive changes came to the Aquarium and is credited for saving the aquarium from closing.

The logo, Education Department, Volunteer Program, library, research facility, gift shop, Friends of the Waikīkī Aquarium support organization and the first Exhibits Master Plan (1978) all came into being during his tenure.

By accepting donations, memberships and grants, the Aquarium was able to fund increased services and to renovate exhibits.

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Honolulu_Aquarium
Honolulu_Aquarium
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)
Waikiki_Aquarium (Courtesy Waikiki Aquarium)

Filed Under: General, Buildings, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Waikiki, Honolulu Rapid Transit, Waikiki Aquarium

February 28, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Fort Kekuanohu

Russians arrived in Hawaii in 1804 on ships associated with the Russian-American Fur Trading Company stationed at what is now Sitka, Alaska, to obtain fruit, vegetables and meat.

During this timeframe, Hawai‘i served as an important provisioning site for traders, whalers and others crossing the Pacific.

On O‘ahu, in 1815, Kamehameha I granted Russian representatives permission to build a storehouse near Honolulu Harbor.

But, instead, directed by the German adventurer Georg Schaffer (1779-1836,) they began building a fort and raised the Russian flag.

They built their blockhouse near the harbor, against the ancient heiau of Pākākā and close to the King’s complex. There are reports that the Russians used stones from Pākākā in building their facility.

As a side note, Pākākā was the site of Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i’s negotiations relinquishing power to Kamehameha I, instead of going to war, and pledged allegiance to Kamehameha, a few years earlier in 1810.

When Kamehameha discovered the Russians were building a fort (rather than storehouses) and had raised the Russian flag, he sent several chiefs, along with John Young (his advisor,) to remove the Russians from Oʻahu by force, if necessary.

The Russian personnel judiciously chose to sail for Kauai instead of risking bloodshed. On Kauai, there they were given land by Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i; the Russian Fort Elizabeth was built soon after on Kaua‘i.

The partially built blockhouse at Honolulu was finished by Hawaiians under the direction of John Young and mounted guns protected the fort.

Its original purpose was to protect Honolulu by keeping enemy or otherwise undesirable ships out. But, it was also used to keep things in (it also served as a prison.)

By 1830, the fort had 40 guns mounted on the parapets all of various calibers (6, 8, 12 and probably a few 32 pounders.) Fort Kekuanohu literally means ‘the back of the scorpion fish,’ as in ‘thorny back,’ because of the rising guns on the walls. In 1838 there were 52 guns reported.

The fort protected Honolulu Harbor and also housed a number of administrative functions, including many years of service as Honolulu’s police headquarters. The first courts of the islands were held here until a new courthouse was built in 1853, adjacent to the fort.

Barracks, Officers’ quarters, the Governor’s House, prison cells, a guardhouse and several powder magazines were inside the 340-by-300-foot long, 12-foot high and 20-foot thick walls. The main entrance faced mauka, up Fort Street.

The fort’s massive 12-foot walls were torn apart and the fort dismantled in 1857 and used to fill the harbor to accommodate an expanding downtown.

Fort Street is one of the oldest streets in Honolulu and is named after this fort. Today, the site of the old fort is the open space called Walker Park, a small park at the corner of Queen and Fort streets (also fronting Ala Moana/Nimitz.)

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No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)
No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)
Louis_Choris_-_'Vue_du_port_hanarourou'-Port_of_Honolulu-1816
Honolulu_Fort_by_George_Henry_Burgess,_c._1857
Honolulu_Fort_by_George_Henry_Burgess,_c._1857
Fort of Honolulu-John_Colburn-visited Honolulu twice during the voyage-July 8-23, 1837 and May 31-June 10, 1839
Fort of Honolulu-John_Colburn-visited Honolulu twice during the voyage-July 8-23, 1837 and May 31-June 10, 1839
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Honolulu Waterfront-Fort-Prison-Judiciary
Honolulu Waterfront-Fort-Prison-Judiciary
Dr. Thomas T. Waterman inspecting old cannon from the old Fort, Honolulu.-PP-37-4-008
Dr. Thomas T. Waterman inspecting old cannon from the old Fort, Honolulu.-PP-37-4-008
Canon from Honolulu Fort (Kekuanohu) (1816) which was demolished 1857.
Canon from Honolulu Fort (Kekuanohu) (1816) which was demolished 1857.
Fort_Elizabeth-visualization-Molodin-portion-400
Fort_Elizabeth-visualization-Molodin-portion-400

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Buildings Tagged With: Hawaii, Fort Kekuanohu, Russians in Hawaii, Honolulu Harbor, Kaumualii, Kamehameha, Russian American Company

February 26, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

The Queen’s Retreat

It’s in Maunawili and is referred to as the Boyd/Irwin/Hedemann house, due to the subsequent list of owners of the property.

Major Edward Boyd and his wife bought the land in 1869, it served as their estate.

Sugar baron William G. Irwin next purchased the estate in 1893, starting up a coffee mill, there.

C. Brewer owned the estate in the 1920s and 1930s, using it as a retreat. Kāne‘ohe Ranch bought it in 1941, when the military used it as a headquarters and rest area.

Even the Girl Scouts used it as a camp in the late-1940s.

The Hedemann family was the last to live there, until 1985, when the estate was purchased by a Japanese investor, who developed much of the surrounding area as the Luana Hills Country Club.

Since 2000, the property has been owned by HRT Ltd., the for-profit arm of the Jeanette and Harry Weinberg Foundation.

Why is it important?

The property is also referred to as the Queen’s Retreat.

King David Kalākaua and his sister, Lili‘uokalani, attended parties or simply came here to rest.

Guests would walk between two parallel rows of royal palms, farewells would be exchanged, then they would ride away on horseback or in their carriages.

Lili‘uokalani wrote “Aloha ‘Oe” after an 1878 visit to the estate.

When leaving, she witnessed a particularly affectionate farewell between a gentleman in her party and a lovely young girl from Maunawili.

As they rode up the Pali and into the swirling winds, she started to hum this melody weaving words into a romantic song. The Queen continued to hum and completed her song as they rode the winding trail down the valley back to Honolulu.

Uninhabited since about 1985, the structures and grounds of the estate are rapidly being destroyed and absorbed by the rain forest of Maunawili.

In 2005, Historic Hawai‘i Foundation put it on its Most Endangered list – the property may be lost due to lack of maintenance.

I had a chance to visit the site a few years ago. It brought back old memories. I had visited it many times before.

As a kid, I used to go to school with the Hedemanns and visited their home several times, decades ago. Back then, I never knew what the place was all about; it was merely the Hedemann’s house.

When I saw the property, again, a few years ago, I learned the stories of the place. I had a chance to see the palm-lined walkway leading to the house.

This is a very special place.

I am hopeful that the property can be maintained and access made public, so people can see and feel what inspired the Queen to write Aloha ‘Oe.

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Aloha_Oe-Hawaiian-English
Aloha_Oe-Hawaiian-English
Crown Princess Liliuokalani of Hawaii photographed in London during Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee-(WC)-c._1887
Crown Princess Liliuokalani of Hawaii photographed in London during Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee-(WC)-c._1887
Aloha_Oe-Sheet_Music-Cover
Aloha_Oe-Sheet_Music-Cover
Palm lined path
Palm lined path
Palm lined path
Palm lined path
Queen's-Retreat-(historichawaii)
Queen’s-Retreat-(historichawaii)
Queen's_Retreat-(historichawaii)
Queen’s_Retreat-(historichawaii)
Trail up the windward side of the Pali, Honolulu Hawaii-(BishopMuseum) ca. 1890
Trail up the windward side of the Pali, Honolulu Hawaii-(BishopMuseum) ca. 1890
Driving Cattle up Pali Trail to Market - 1887
Driving Cattle up Pali Trail to Market – 1887
Old_Pali_Road._Building_of_the_New_pali_Road_1900._Wilson_&_Whitehouse_contract
Old_Pali_Road._Building_of_the_New_pali_Road_1900._Wilson_&_Whitehouse_contract
Nuuanu_Pali-Koolau_Range-1889
Nuuanu_Pali-Koolau_Range-1889

Filed Under: General, Buildings, Place Names Tagged With: Queen Liliuokalani, Maunawili, Hawaii, Oahu

February 7, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Father Damon

“Samuel Damon … was known to sailors from all the Four Seas as Father Damon, pastor of the Seaman’s Bethel of Honolulu. The wife of Father Damon was the daughter of Samuel Mills of “Haystack Meeting” fame …”

“… one of the five young men who met and decided that they should go out into the world to advance the cause of Christianity among heathen people.” (Honolulu Times, December 1, 1909)

“Beloved by all – he and his wife always collecting & caring for the poor. Old whalers like him.” (Twain)

“Samuel Chenery Damon, chaplain of the American Seamen’s Friend Society and pastor of Bethel Union Church at Honolulu. His (wife) Julia Sherman Mills Damon, no less a tireless worker in Christ’s service, was first president of the Stranger’s Friend Society.” (Dye)

Damon came of Hawaii in 1842. On January 1, 1843 he began publication of the American Temperance Advocate, briefly called The Friend of Temperance & Seamen and then simply The Friend. (Twain)

Damon served as the chaplain at O‘ahu Bethel Church (Seamen’s Bethel) for 42 years, serving the sailors of vessels who entered the port of Honolulu.

“Beth-el” was designated as a refuge for sojourners. At that time more than 100 whaling vessels with approximately 6,000 sailors aboard entered the port of Honolulu annually.

Materials for the building had been contributed by several ship owners in Norwich and New London, Connecticut. A residence for the chaplain was also built nearby.

The chapel was of average size, measuring 48 feet by 30 feet. The main hall seated 300 persons; the basement had a reading room, a book depository, and a marine museum. Dedicated in 1833, the chapel stood until 1886. (Watson)

“Father Damon’s chief life-work has flowed in a different channel … Whereas their mission was emphatically to those Islanders who had never before heard the Gospel message, his was distinctively to the white settlers at Honolulu …”

“… but especially to the multitude of sailors from all lands who forty years ago flocked to the Hawaiian isles in very far larger numbers than at the present day, and many being wild and reckless, proved far more serious foes to mission-work than any which arose from mere indigenous heathenism.”

“In those days Honolulu was the winter rendezvous for the American whaling fleet, and about a hundred and fifty ships sometimes assembled here; bringing, of course, an immense influx of wild, undisciplined men.”

“Of those days Dr. Damon himself has said: ‘During the years between 1842 and 1867, at the lowest estimate, six thousand sailors annually entered the port, sometimes far more.’”

“‘I recollect one Sunday morning over thirty whale-ships and sixteen vessels of war rounded Diamond Head, besides all the merchant vessels. There could not have been less than ten thousand seamen during that year in the port of Honolulu.’”

“‘The Rev. S. E. Bishop reports from three to four thousand as visiting Lahaina, while the Rev. Titus Coan reports as many more, calling at Hilo.’” (Wesleyan-Methodist Magazine, August 1886)

“Leaving New York in March, 1842, he and his bride sailed for Honolulu, where he at once commenced work as pastor of the Bethel Chapel, which had been erected in 1833, and was the only place of worship for the English-speaking community.”

“Busy as was his life, he yet found time to care for all. Every traveller who has visited the isles can tell the same tale, of how ‘Father Damon’ was the first to welcome the coming, the last to speed the parting guest …”

“… and so he remains linked in the first and last Hawaiian memories of many a wanderer in distant lands, all of whom will assuredly endorse words spoken concerning him:”

“‘All will feel that the Honolulu they have known will not be Honolulu to them without Dr. Damon’s genial cordiality to give warmth and brightness to their enjoyment of its sunshine, and memories of bis courteous friendliness.” (Wesleyan-Methodist Magazine, August 1886)

“After a short but severe illness he passed away on the 7th of February (1885), carried off by inflammation of the brain, when within eight days of completing his seventieth year.”

“I believe that to many besides myself, it must have been a surprise to learn that he had so nearly attained the three-score years and ten …”

“… for he was so young-looking, and so full of unbounded energy, both physical and mental, and so eager to enlarge his work in a new field of usefulness, that, though he likewise was honoured with the affectionate title of ‘Father,’ it seemed as though he must belong to a younger generation than those of whom I have hitherto spoken.”

“His funeral was attended by His Majesty King Kalākaua, and various members of the Royal Family; also by the Anglican bishop and the majority of the Anglican congregation; for all the community have good reason to mourn the death of one of Honolulu’s noblest citizens.” (Wesleyan-Methodist Magazine, August 1886)

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Samuel_C._Damon_(PP-70-7-001)
Samuel_C._Damon_(PP-70-7-001)
Julia_Sherman_Mills_Damon_son_Samuel_Mills_ Damon_and_Samuel_Chenery_Damon-1850
Julia_Sherman_Mills_Damon_son_Samuel_Mills_ Damon_and_Samuel_Chenery_Damon-1850
The Seamen's Bethel Chapel-1896
The Seamen’s Bethel Chapel-1896
Bethel's Church, Honolulu, Hawaii, founded in 1833 as Seamen's Bethel Church
Bethel’s Church, Honolulu, Hawaii, founded in 1833 as Seamen’s Bethel Church
The_Friend_Building-approximate_location_of_Bethel_Chapel-926_Bethel_Street
The_Friend_Building-approximate_location_of_Bethel_Chapel-926_Bethel_Street

Filed Under: General, Buildings, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Samuel Damon, Bethel Chapel, The Friend, Temperance, Samuel Chenery Damon

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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