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December 29, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kūpikipikiʻō

An eruption from a vent southeast of Lēʻahi (Diamond Head) poured dense lava into the sea to build a headland. The Hawaiians called it Kūpikipikiʻō (rough (sea) or agitated (wind or storm)) because of its turbulent waters.

The waves attack the headland directly, but the shore on either side of it is protected by a reef. (MacDonald)  The black lava that formed there prompted its modern name, Black Point.

When Kamehameha and his warriors made their attack in Oʻahu in 1795, they landed from Waikīkī to Maunalua – right in this area.  More than 100-years later, around 1901, one of Black Point’s first houses was built by developer Fred Harrison.  (Star-Bulletin)

In January 1905, President Teddy Roosevelt instructed Secretary of War William H. Taft to convene the National Coast Defense Board (Taft Board) “to consider and report upon the coast defenses of the United States and the insular possessions (including Hawai‘i.)”

Based on recommendation of the Secretary of War, on January 18, 1906, President Teddy Roosevelt signed Executive Order 395-A, setting aside public lands at Kūpikipikiʻo Point for military purposes.

“From Kūpikipikiʻo Point to Waipiʻo Peninsula the line of defense is to be strengthened with field fortifications, batteries and searchlights, and as soon as the money becomes available the dirt will begin to fly and the concrete to take form, under the supervision of the army engineers.”  (Star-Bulletin, February 4, 1914)

Fort Ruger Military Reservation was established at Lēʻahi in 1906.  The Reservation was named in honor of Major General Thomas H Ruger, who served from 1871 to 1876 as the superintendent of the United States Military Academy at West Point.

The fort included Battery Harlow (1910-1943); Battery Birkhimer (1916-1943); Battery Granger Adams (1935-1946); Battery Dodge (1915-1925); Battery Mills (1916-1925); Battery 407 (1944); Battery Hulings (1915-1925) and Battery Ruger (1937-1943.)

Battery Mills was built on a 3-acre tract in the Kūpikipikiʻo Point Reservation.   Battery Mills was not technically part of Fort Ruger, but was administered by it.  The battery was armed with two 5-inch Seacoast guns.

There was a reinforced magazine for munitions, a plotting room/command bunker and an underground power room which had a generator. Those guns were later eliminated from the Army’s inventory, so the Battery was decommissioned.

Battery Granger Adams (1933 and 1935) replaced Battery Mills and consisted of two 8-inch railway guns on either side of a protected powder and shell magazine, along with a Commander’s Station and power room (it was felt that there was still a need for a gun battery at that location – it was later decommissioned in 1946.)

The conclusion of World War II and the advent of nuclear and missile warfare made the coastal batteries obsolete. Thus, in December 1955 the majority of the land was turned over to the State of Hawai‘i.

Nearby Kaʻalāwai Beach lies at the base of Diamond Head’s eastern slope, between Kuilei Cliff Beach Park (“lei stringing”) to the west and Black Point to the east.

Kaʻalāwai (“the watery rock”) is a narrow, white-sand beach with a shallow reef offshore, which makes for generally poor swimming conditions. There are only a few scattered pockets of sand on the nearshore ocean bottom.

Freshwater bubbles up between the rocks of the reef. The beach is mainly used by surfers, who paddle out to the surf spot called Brown’s, which is located just behind the reef.

An old Beach Road fronted the Kaʻalāwai oceanfront properties.  In 1959, owners of the abutting properties claimed the ownership of the old beach road; after a series of lawsuits, many of them obtained declaratory judgments which allowed them to buy the road right-of-way.

At the east end of the beach near Black Point is Shangri-La, a mansion turned museum, built by Doris Duke, the daughter of James Buchanan Duke, the founder of the American Tobacco Company, and her husband, James Cromwell, in 1937.

Upon her father’s death, Doris Duke received large bequests from her father’s will when she turned 21, 25, and 30; she was sometimes referred to as the “world’s richest girl.”

In the late 1930s, Doris Duke built her Honolulu home, Shangri La, on 5-acres overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Diamond Head.  Shangri La incorporates architectural features from the Islamic world and houses Duke’s extensive collection of Islamic art, which she assembled for nearly 60 years.

Today, Shangri La is open for guided, small group tours and educational programs. In partnership with the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art – which owns and supports Shangri La – the Honolulu Museum of Art serves as the orientation center for Shangri La tours.

To get to Kaʻalāwai Beach and Cromwell’s Cove take Diamond Head Road east and turn right on Kulamanu Street and park curbside.  The beach access is at the end of Kulamanu Place.

A later building boom by the wealthy turned Black Point into one of the world’s most exclusive and expensive community.

© 2023 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: General, Buildings, Place Names, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Oahu, Leahi, Diamond Head, Shangri La, Doris Duke, Kaalawai, Kupikipikio, Fort Ruger, Black Point

December 17, 2023 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Queen’s Surf

“Hamohamo is justly considered to be the most life-giving and healthy district in the whole extent of the island of Oʻahu; there is something unexplainable and peculiar in the atmosphere of that place, which seldom fails to bring back the glow of health to the patient, no matter from what disease suffering.” (Queen Liliʻuokalani)

The Queen “derived much amusement, as well as pleasure: for as the sun shines on the evil and the good, and the rain falls on the just and the unjust, I have not felt called upon to limit the enjoyment of my beach and shade-trees to any party in politics … While in exile it has ever been a pleasant thought to me that my people, in spite of differences of opinions, are enjoying together the free use of my seashore home.”

Because of her nearby homes, they called the coastal area in this part of Waikīkī Queen’s Surf Beach.

In 1914, Mr & Mrs WK Seering of the International Harvester Co in Illinois built a home there.  A couple decades later, Fleischman’s Yeast heir, Mr CR Holmes, bought the home (he also had other Hawaiʻi property, including Coconut Island in Kāneʻohe Bay.) (ilind)

During WWII, the house was used for military retreats and other military uses.  Admiral Nimitz, General Douglas McArthur and staffs spent time there.

After World War II (and following Holmes’ death,) the City & County of Honolulu bought the property and leased it to the Spencecliff Corporation restaurant chain; it became their flagship property and operated it as the hugely popular Queen’s Surf Restaurant and Nightclub.

Sterling Edwin Kilohana Mossman (February 3, 1920 to February 21, 1986) headlined at its upstairs Barefoot Bar.  A man as versatile as he was talented, literally led a double life. A detective with the Honolulu Police Department during the day, after dark he was one of Hawaiʻi’s most popular entertainers. His diversified careers earned him the nickname “Hula Cop”. (TerritorialAirwaves)

The Barefoot Bar was ground zero for this new brand of local comedy. Mossman was the ringleader, along with the likes of Lucky Luck, a zany radio personality, and Kent Bowman, known as KK Kaumanua.  They told stories, sang songs and, when a celebrity from the Mainland happened to come by (and they did a lot), they became part of the show.  (HonoluluMagazine)

Mossman sang and did comedy and included a lot of others in the evening’s entertainment.  The footprints of many of these Island and internationally known entertainers lined the stairway up to the second floor bar.

For a while, downstairs, at the Surf Lanai, Kuiokalani (Kui) Lee sang for the crowds – inside and out of the restaurant.  During the day, the beach was crowded with sun bathers; at night it was full of Island residents listening in on Kui Lee’s long list of local favorites (he’d turn to the ocean and sing a final song to the folks on the beach.)

Born in Shanghai, China, the third child and only son of Hawaiian entertainers Billy and Ethel Lee, Kui Lee was a prolific songwriter.  Folks like Don Ho, Elvis, Tony Bennett and Andy Williams recorded and performed his songs: “I’ll Remember You,” “One Paddle, Two Paddle”, “She’s Gone Again”, “No Other Song”, “If I Had To Do It All Over Again”, “Yes, It’s You”, “Rain, Rain Go Away”, “Get On Home”, “The Days Of My Youth” and “Lahainaluna.”

“Kui was very brash, very positive about his songs,” said Kimo McVay, owner of Duke Kahanamoku’s nightclub from 1961 to ’71 and manager/promoter of Don Ho from 1963 to ’66. “He gave them to Don, and Don, of course, made them hits. When Don became a star because of that material, a national star, that’s what launched Kui. And Kui became the star of Queen’s Surf.” (star-bulletin)

Here is Kui Lee singing Days of My Youth (a reminder for me of growing up in the Islands, and the one time I was able to sit on the beach and listen to Kui Lee perform – unfortunately, Kui Lee died of cancer at the age of 34 in 1966.)  Click HERE for a YouTube for one of Kui Lee’s songs.

Queen’s surf also offered a regular lūʻau on the property.

The stories vary on the cause, but later there was a lease dispute with the City and the Queen’s Surf and the neighboring Kodak Hula Show were evicted, the Queen’s Surf was torn down (1971) and the Waikīkī beachfront area was turned into a public park.

© 2023 Hoʻokuleana LLC

 

Filed Under: Buildings, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Waikiki, Oahu, Queen Liliuokalani, Spencecliff, Hamohamo, Queen's Surf

November 26, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Barbara Hall

“Born in Honolulu the son of a whaler, [Alfred Wellington] AW Carter graduated summa cum laude from Yale law school, became a judge, and distinguished himself in various positions in island commerce and government.”

“The ‘big thing’ in his business life – running Parker Ranch – started in 1899 when, at the age of 32, he was named as guardian of young Thelma Kahiluonapuaapiilani Parker. He was to guide Parker Ranch for nearly half a century and do more to advance it than anyone but old Parker himself.” (Paniolo Hall of Fame)

“A man of great humility and spirit, he ever disclaimed that he alone made the Parker Ranch one of the most important meat-producing units of the world, although this was often said of him.”

“Mr. Carter gave the major credit for building this mighty enterprise to the teamwork of the Hawaiian cowboys; to the advice of practical ranchmen who had learned by experience; and to the reasoning of research in the ways of life from germs to genetics.”

“Some thought him a martinet because he demanded that instructions be followed to the letter, but he took the blame himself for errors of judgment, this personally humble and humane servant of the law and leader among his fellows.”

“An unusual man, this Hawaii’s native son, creator of great wealth for others.  A somewhat austere man because of his almost puritanical adherence to right and justice, the warmth of his friendships will be a treasured remembrance always.” (Honolulu Advertiser, April 29, 1949)

In 1915, “Barbara Hall is built at a cost of $6,954.02 by Parker Ranch as a place of rest and relaxation for ranch employees and is named in honor of the daughter of then Parker Ranch Manager, AW Carter.” (Parker School)  (Barbara Juliette Carter was born June 25, 1901.)

“The courthouse was [used for social activities] … in the meantime we had built this Barbara Hall … That was built for social activities. And then, that [courthouse] building there was used by the police department and for court cases.”

“It was just a big hall and a back room and upstairs for movie projector. We used to have silent pictures those days. Once in a while, we had silent pictures (shown for ranch) families.”

“It was mostly (used) for ranch affairs, ranch functions. When we grew up, we’re not able to throw a party or have a big function like we do now. Everybody just goes out and have a big Iu‘au or for a wedding or baptism. Those days, we didn’t have such a thing. So the hall was strictly used for ranch functions. (It was not opened to the community.)”

“That’s where they had the Christmas-tree program and the big lu’au and silent movies. And meetings would be held, as long it’s ranch-associated, like Boy Scouts, Girl Scouts, you know, that are sponsored by the ranch. They would have first use of that facility. Otherwise, there was no other place to hold a meeting, except to go (to) the schools.” (Elizabeth Kimura, Oral History)

“In addition to R&R for Parker Ranch employees, Barbara Hall serves as a community hall for social gatherings, flower shows, community plays, fashion shows, club activities, baby clinics, dance classes, and other community events.”

“Parker Ranch hosts an annual Christmas party and New Year’s Eve luau inviting all residents of Waimea to Barbara Hall.” (Parker School)

“[When] they had a lū‘au there and it took about a week to prepare things for the lū‘au. Because they’d go down to ‘Anaeho‘omalu to get coconuts. They’d go up in the mountain to pick maile and pick fern, to decorate the tables and whatnot.”

“And then cut firewood for the imu, and I guess there probably were twenty-five, thirty people involved in preparing this lū‘au. And every employee on the ranch and a lot of outsiders, non-ranch people, were invited to the lū‘au.”

“The tables were all decorated beautifully with palapalai and ginger and they put the food on the table and they keep the door closed. And when Mr. Carter came up they’d open the door and he would be the first one to go in and sit down, and everybody else would follow in.” (Rally Greenwell, Oral History)

“[D]uring the war … That’s when the marines took over and they added on to the old Barbara Hall and made extensions more for gathering place. The boys would go there and play cards and have bingo games. Recreation …”

In 1943, “Barbara Hall [became] a United Service Organizations (USO) facility for more than 55,000 United States Marines and Navy personnel (two waves of roughly 25,000 soldiers over a two-year period) who train at Camp Tarawa on Parker Ranch during World War II. In two weeks, Waimea’s population explodes from approximately 400 to 25,000 people.” (Parker School)

Barbara Hall at main side Camp Tarawa in Waimea was the busiest and most popular USO on the Island. It was the site of dances with live music played by famous orchestras, entertainment by big-name stars and other recreational activities. (Greguras)

“Our local people used to join in with [the military]. And then they built the (movie) theater right next door to the hall. The military did that. … We used to call it Kahilu Theatre. … Everybody came and watched movies.”

“In fact, the war did a lot of good for Waimea. They brought in the theater, and brought in electricity, that’s a big help. … And after the military left, (the theater was operated by a private individual).”

“It was renamed after Richard’s [Richard Smart’s] mother. Richard’s mother, Kahilu [taken from the first three syllables of her Hawaiian name-Thelma Kahiluonapuaapi’ilani Parker Smart]. It was named Kahilu Hall.” (Elizabeth Kimura, Oral History)

On September 3, 1976, Parker School began; 58 students (grades 9 – 12) were enrolled in the side downstairs portion of Kahilu Hall. Richard Smart loaned the space for the first five classrooms, including a science lab and library-study hall. Parker School continues to use the former Barbara Hall on its campus.

“And then, Richard [Smart] built a new town hall in honor of his mother. Kahilu Town Hall and the Kahilu Theatre.” (Elizabeth Kimura, Oral History)

Alfred Hartwell Carter, commonly known as Hartwell, was the only son of Alfred Wellington Carter and Edith Hartwell Carter. He became Parker Ranch manager in 1937 upon the retirement of his father, AW Carter.

In 1949, Carter Sr. passed away leaving his son with complete responsibility for management of the huge Parker Ranch. Hartwell retired on December 31, 1959, after nearly 23 years of service. (Paniolo Hall of Fame)

© 2023 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Buildings, Prominent People, Schools Tagged With: Kamuela, AW Carter, Barbara Hall, Kahilu Hall, Richard Smart, Hawaii, Waimea, Parker Ranch

November 21, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Post Office

“Almost coincident with the issuance by the United States Post Office Department of postage stamps for use on letters and parcels sent through the US mails, in 1847, the Government of the Kingdom of Hawaii, in the reign of Kamehameha III, had under consideration the establishment of an interisland mail service, with a post office department in charge of mails.”

“Up to the actual establishment of the Hawaiian Post Office, which was accomplished through a decree of the Privy Council, December 22, 1850, with Henry M. Whitney as Postmaster, mails arriving at Honolulu from the American States, largely from Atlantic seaboard ports, and of course, coming on sailing vessels, were distributed helter-skelter.”

“Charles R. Bishop, when Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Hawaiian Kingdom in 1873, when asked for reminiscences concerning the early handling of mails, wrote on May 23, 1873:”

“‘Your letter of March 6 was duly received and in accordance with your request, which I passed over to Em. Fenard, Esq., first clerk in the post office, he has been kind enough to prepare an historical sketch of, and to copy out the laws relating to the Hawaiian postal system, to which he has attached all the postage stamps now in use here, and all the old ones which are procurable.’”

“‘In 1846-7, when a merchant ship from Boston or New York arrived via Cape Horn, the mail matter was usually poured out from the bags, etc., onto the floor of the counting room of the consignees of the vessel, or of the harbormaster’s office …’”

“‘… and those expecting letters gathered around the pile to assist in overhauling or ‘sorting’, picking out their own, and passing over their shoulders the letters, etc., of those standing in the outer circle.’”

“‘Letters for captains and crew of ships on cruise, addressed to care of ship chandlers, went to their offices; the seamen’s chaplain took those sent in his care, and the remainder for sailors went into the old tea-chest at the Consulate.’”

“‘When the whalers came into port to recruit, their crews made the rounds of the ship chandlers, the Chaplaincy, and the Consulate, in search of news from home, and the old tea-chest was upset and overhauled many times daily while the fleet was in port.’”

“‘Soon after steam communication was established between New York and San Francisco, via Panama, postal regulations were put in force here, which have from time to time been improved, until we now have a well-conducted and convenient post office.’”

“Singularly enough, the efforts of the United States Post Office Department to establish, through contracts, regular mail service between New York and San Francisco by way of Panama, were closely tied up with the system soon to be established in Hawaii.”

“The United States planned to use about $200,000 a year to establish the New York-San Francisco-Oregon mail service. The story is well known.”

“Contracts were let to sub-contractors, among the latter being a Mr.  Aspinwall, who had the contract between Panama and San Francisco and Oregon. The overland mail-carrying service on Panama was a separate contract. The attempts to use Nicaragua and Mexico for mail service failed.”

“The steamer California was the first to be put into the service. She was especially built, and sailed from New York for San Francisco, via Cape Horn. Meantime, the news of the gold discovery reached the Eastern states, and a wild rush was made for California, via the American desert and via Panama.”

“When the California called at the Pacific side of Panama, a wild mob of prospective passengers, also mail, awaited her. The ship was crowded, many paying a thousand dollars for a ticket. At San Francisco every member of the crew, except the engineer, deserted to go to the mines.”

“When the next steamer entered San Francisco, she was anchored in the shadow of the guns of a warship and forcible measures were taken to prevent desertions, and. the pay of the crew was raised from $12 to $112.”

“But, while steam was used to convey letters from the eastern states to California and Oregon, sailing vessels were relied upon to carry mails from San Francisco to Honolulu.”

“Likewise mails originated in Atlantic seaboard ports for Honolulu direct. Oftentimes, sailing vessels with mail and passengers, as well as cargo, bound for San Francisco or Oregon, put into Honolulu for refreshments, leaving mail, and also taking mail.”

“It may not be generally known, but the first American troops for Oregon, first saw the Hawaiian Islands, as the steamer Massachusetts, a transport, called at Honolulu and the troops rested before proceeding north.”

“Prior to the use of postage stamps by the United States and by Hawaii, letters were usually handled in this manner: ‘The letter was written on one side of the paper.’”

“‘This was folded from bottom half way to the top, and the top was folded down toward the middle. Then the ends were folded over, say about one-third, so that one end overlapped the other, and sealing wax was then dropped on the junctions and a signet ring made the seal impression.’”

“‘On the opposite side, the address was written, and usually in a corner was added “via Ship Amazon.” This letter was handed in at the office of the ship company in New York, or Boston, or San Francisco, together with the amount of postage required, sometimes for a voyage beyond a certain number of miles amounting to 25 or 40 cents.’ …”

“In the 4th article of the Second Act, April 27, 1846, entitled ‘An Act to Organize the Executive Departments of the Hawaiian Islands,’ is the first mention ever made of the Post Office …”

“… and the regulations adopted in relation to the inter-island mails read that the Collector-General of Customs, and the Collectors of the respective ports of entry, shall be ex-officio, postmasters, and entitled to receive, and open, at their respective ports, the mail bags hereinafter specified.”

“‘The Minister of the Interior shall appoint some trustworthy and discreet person, residing conveniently on each of the islands, where no port of entry and departure is established, to be the postmaster thereof.’”

“The minister was to furnish each postmaster with leathern bags, capable of being securely locked. Then there were instructions about closing mails an hour previous to departures of vessels …”

“… and he was compelled to list each letter and package and retain it, that is, a copy, enclosing in each bag a copy of the list. Then the receiving postmaster was to post the list in a conspicuous place, where the public could view it.”

“When the commander of a foreign ship arrived at a port, he took whatever mail he had to the post office and was entitled to receive from the postmaster for each letter, two cents, and for each newspaper delivered, one cent.”

“Gradually, out of this primitive sort of post office, grew the Hawaiian Post Office, which had its treaty relations, in postal conferences and conventions, with other nations, and the system was made as good as possible. …”

“The above was altered by the postal convention in force between the United States and the Hawaiian Kingdom, of the 4th of May, 1870. Two cents was required as postage on each newspaper; pamphlets were 4 cents.”

“In 1865 an amendment was made that no letters should be carried or delivered without postage having been previously affixed, and individuals were prohibited from carrying such unstamped letters for delivery.”

“Ship captains, also, could place a box, properly lettered with the name of his ship and his own name, in which box letters, properly stamped, could be dropped, the captain acting as sub-route-agent.”

“The post office was required to pay all its own expenses. Apparently, a deficit was not permissible. But, if a deficiency did arise, then the Postmaster-General could draw upon the Treasury for the amount.”

“The safe transmission of mails between the Hawaiian Government and the United States of America, previous to the Postal Convention between these two countries, and approved by the President on the 5th day of May, 1870, was provided for in Article 15 of the American Treaty, ratified on the 9th of August, 1850.”

“The first postmaster appointed in Honolulu was H. M. Whitney, who retained that situation from 1850 to 1856, when he established the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, which is now styled the Honolulu Advertiser.”

“During the time of his incumbency, stamps were issued of the denominations of 5 and 13 cents for foreign letters, and 2 cents for papers, all of which were mere digits, and by 1876, could not be found, except in rare instances.”

“Under the administration of Postmaster Jackson, from 1856 to 1859, a large number of stamps of varied denominations were issued, and during his term inter-island postage originated, of 2 cents per 1/2 ounce on letters, and 1 cent on papers.”  (JF Woolley, Postmaster; Thrum 1930)

During the fifty years of Hawaii’s independent postal system from 1850 to 1900, the post office occupied three premises: a room in The Polynesian Office (1850-1854;) rooms in Honolulu Hale, situated next door to The Polynesian Office (1854-1871;) and about half of the ground floor in the “New Post Office” (Kamehameha V Post Office, 1871-1922,) situated on the former site of The Polynesian Office.

On June 14, 1900, the Kamehameha V Post Office officially became a unit of the United States Post Office (the year that Hawaii became a Territory of the US.)

© 2023 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, General, Buildings Tagged With: Honolulu Hale, Polynesian Pop, Post Office, Postal Service, Hawaii, Kamehameha V Post Office

November 12, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lewalewa Settlement

“[Gilbert] Islanders were brought [to Hawai‘i] in different ships under contracts for labor work during the years 1880 and 1882. In the contract was a clause agreeing to ship the Gilbert Islanders back to their homes after conclusion of the contracts.”

“[Many] of them were employed on Koloa plantation, Kauai, and a large proportion were taken back according to agreement. Others remained. It is stated, voluntarily. Many it is claimed were not offered passages.  During their stay here the Islanders have kept themselves in colonies.” (Hawaiian Gazette, Oct 16, 1903)

“An outcome of the scattering of poor South Sea Islanders after the destruction of Chinatown in January of last year, was the building of a mushroom village of shacks within the breakwater on the Waikiki side of the channel [into Honolulu Harbor]”. (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, Sep 9, 1901)

By that time, residential construction began with the filling of fishponds, marshes and mudflats starting with the area closest to downtown Honolulu; Kakaʻako flourished as a residential settlement where immigrant workers joined the Hawaiian community to form areas such as Squattersville, a shantytown which sprang up along the district’s makai border.  (KSBE)

“Within this rock wall enclosure several sand spits have been formed by the action of the tides, and upon these the homeless and destitute people from the South Seas built their squalid homes”.

“That these people are poverty stricken is evidenced by the makeshift affairs which they call their homes. Driftwood, boards secured from any chance place, pieces of tin, boxes, crates and general debris are the component parts of these odd, misshapen structures, which they have erected to shelter them.”

“Picturesque as the village may seem to the stranger who visits it, the Board of Health has determined that cleanliness shall be the first rule of the place”.  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, Sep 9, 1901)

“For some time many [of the Gilbert Islanders] lived in a settlement of huts on sand enclosed by the stone wall built, into the sea at Kakaako, back of the Quarantine wharf.”

“There they supported themselves by fishing, the women assisting by braiding hats and mats. … The Gilbert Islands being a British protectorate the colonies here are under the control of that country and British Consul Hoare has taken a strong interest in the matter of sending them home.” (Hawaiian Gazette, Oct 16, 1903)

“The Lewalewa settlement, or the South Sea Island settlement, as it is more commonly known, which has existed on the breakwater enclosure beyond the boathouses, for several months, is doomed.”

“The Board of Health says that too many deaths from tuberculosis have occurred there, and with the co-operation of Captain Merry, who has charge of the Naval Station here, it is hoped that the settlement may be removed.”

“Since the plague of last year this sand spit, protected by the stone breakwater, has been a refuge for the poverty-stricken South Sea Islanders. They built small shacks of driftwood, and almost anything that would keep out wind and rain, and have eked out a miserable existence”.

“Yesterday the question of the health of the inhabitants of that interesting village was brought up and the statement made that there was at present too much tuberculosis in the place. Deaths have been numerous from this cause, and it was declared that a change of conditions must take place there.” (PCA, June 6, 1901) They later moved to Kalihi. (PCA, Oct 16, 1903)

Later, “Acting Governor Atkinson and Superintendent of Public Works Holloway had a meeting this morning with the representatives of seventeen families of Hawaiians who have ‘squatted’ on land in Kakaako and who were served with notices of eviction at the instance of Mrs. Ward, owner of the property.”

“It appears that the Hawaiians were living principally by fishing in the private fishing right adjoining the land. As a result, it was impossible to lease the fishery.”

“The Hawaiians are all poor people and arrangements are being made to find them homes elsewhere. ‘We hope to place them on lands In Kalihi where they will be all right,’ said the Acting Governor, ‘and thus all parties will be satisfied.’”

“Aside from the fishery proposition complaints were made that the colony of squatters was a somewhat noisy one.” (Hawaiian Star, May 25, 1906)

Even later, a much larger settlement on the ‘Ewa side of Kewalo at Kaʻākaukukui, near the former location of Incinerator Number One at Kaka‘ako, was referred to as “Squattersville” because the residents lived without authorization on land belonging to the Territory of Hawai‘i.

The dwellings that lined the shoreline, where the present Olomehani Street now runs, were protected from the ocean by a low seawall about three feet high.

The community of about 700 Hawaiians and part-Hawaiians was evicted in May 1926 and their homes were razed. The City and County of Honolulu constructed two incinerators and an ash dump at Kewalo (what we now call Kakaʻako Makai).

Despite its use as a refuse dump, the Kaʻākaukukui area continued to be heavily utilized as a fishing and swimming area. (HABS Report)

© 2023 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Place Names, General, Buildings Tagged With: Hawaii, Kewalo, Kakaako, Lewalewa Settlement, Gilbert Islands

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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Hoʻokuleana LLC

Hoʻokuleana LLC is a Planning and Consulting firm assisting property owners with Land Use Planning efforts, including Environmental Review, Entitlement Process, Permitting, Community Outreach, etc. We are uniquely positioned to assist you in a variety of needs.

Info@Hookuleana.com

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