Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kalāke‘e

In 1804, King Kamehameha I moved his capital from Lāhainā, Maui to Waikīkī; in 1809, he moved his Royal Residence to Pākākā at Honolulu Harbor in 1809.

“Kamehameha’s first residence at Kailua, Kona was at Kalakee.” “On this land, Kalakee [site of Hulihee Palace], was the first site of the king’s [Kamehameha] residence, and his house was called Papa.”

“There stones had been heaped up like a wall at the edge of the sea to make a foundation level with that of the inland side. This was done in order to set apart the makai trail that came down from Pa O Umi, a trail used since remote times. The place where the heir of the kingdom lived”.  (John Papa ‘Ī‘ī)

“Between 1810 and 1812, Kamehameha set up governorships on each island, after which he returned to Kalakee, Kona, where the Hulihee Palace now stands.”

“Shortly after, he appropriates land from the Keawamahi family at Kamakahonu and rebuilt the Ahuena heiau that had been there since the 15th century”.

“It was completed in 1813, and Kamehameha moved there. He educated his heir, Liholiho, in agriculture, fishing and statesmanship.”  (Akana, SB June 11, 1980)

“John Papa ‘Ī‘ī began serving in the royal household of Mō‘ī Kamehameha as a kahu ali‘i (attendant and guardian ofr an ali‘i) in 1810, when he was ten years old.  As a kahu ali‘i, ‘Ī‘ī was highly familiar with the inner workings of the royal household.” (Brown) ‘Ī‘ī shared the following:

“Kamakahonu was formerly the place of Keawe a Mahi, the kahu of Keawe a Heulu. When Keawe a Heulu died, it went to his son Naihe, who, it is believed, caused the death of Keawe a Mahi. Kaawa, a favorite kahu of Naihe is said to have been responsible for the king’s residing there”.

“Kamakahonu was a fine cove, with sand along the edge of the sea and islets of pahoehoe, making it look like a pond, with a grove of kou trees a little inland and a heap of pahoehoe in the center of the stretch of sand. A stone wall ran inland from the right side of Kamakahonu, and on the other side of that wall there was sand as far as a rock promontory.”

“This sandy stretch, called Kaiakekua was a canoe landing, with some houses mauka of it. The rock promontory above Kaiakekua is the Pa O Umi. Beyond it are the sands of Niumalu, and next, the spot where Hulihee Palace now stands.”

“On this land, Kalakee, was the first site of the king’s residence, and his house was called Papa. Outside of the enclosure, by the edge of the sea, was a spring called Kiope. Its fresh water came up from the pahoehoe and mixed with the water of the sea.”

“It was a gathering place for those who went swimming and a place where the surf rolled in and dashed on land when it was rough. It was deep enough there for boats to land when the tide was high, and when it was ebb tide the boats came up close to its rocky pahoehoe side.”

“From there the sea was shallow as far as the spring of Honuaula, where there was a house side on a raised pavement. There the young chief lived. Just makai was a patch of sand facing north, where canoes landed, in front of the heiau of Keikipuipui.”

“A Hale O Lono faced directly toward the upland, and toward the north there was a bed of pahoehoe which reached to the sea, where there was a surfing place for children. To the south was where the waves dashed onto the land. West of the Keikipuipui heiau was a surfing place called Huiha, north of Kapohonau. Later, a heiau was built there by the king ….”

“Ii went with them, and the canoe landed where the water was shallow. Then the women led the way to the main trail. They went past the Kaaipuhi spring, between the houses on both sides of the trail, and on until they arrived at the mauka side of the Honuaula cave. On the upper side of this trail, about 5 or 6 chains from where their canoe had landed, was a small group of houses standing apart.”

“Where the houses began on the south side of the trail that ran through the village another trail branched off, ascending the mountain and leading to the food patches. A stone wall to protect the food plots stretched back of the village from one end to the other and beyond ….”

“Soon after the building of the king’s [Kamehameha] houses at Kamakahonu, two ti-thatched houses were built for the young chief [Liholiho] at Papaula in Honuaula.”

“One was a mua [men’s house] for the heir of the kingdom; the other, a hale ʻaina [woman’s eating house] for his young wife. The name of the woman’s eating house was Kawaluna; that of the husband was Hookuku. “

“Two or three storehouses, some work sheds (halau), and work houses in which women could print their tapa were also built. There were two kinds of work sheds, all thatched with pili grass, behind the white sands of Kaiakeakua and the brine-covered sands close to the pahoehoe.”

“Behind these houses was the trail that went up to the plains, to the area overgrown with thickets, to the bottom of the mountain slope, to the region where the ʻamaʻu ferns grew wild, and on to the mountain.”

“In the storehouses were piled bundles of surplus paʻu, malos, and tapa sheets. These had been given to the chiefs as makahiki taxes that were presented to the gods when they made a circuit of the island every twelfth month.”

“Because the profit received from these taxes on the land was so large, combined with the king’s personal sharesfrom his other lands, goods were piled in great heaps. If one looked into the storehouses, one saw small, large, extra large, and medium-sized bundles and wooden bowls filled with hard poi. There were separate bundles for women and for men.”

“Consequently, separate storehouses were provided for the food to be eaten by each sex. There was no separation of the fishes, however, because either men or women could take what they wanted.” (John Papa ‘Ī‘ī)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

New ‘Road’ into the Ala Wai

In the early-1900s, Lucius Pinkham, then President of the Territorial Board of Health and later Governor, developed the idea of constructing a drainage canal to drain the wetlands, which he considered “unsanitary.”  This called for the construction of a canal to reclaim the marshland.

The Waikīkī Reclamation District was identified as the approximate 800-acres from King and McCully Streets to Kapahulu Street, near Campbell Avenue down to Kapiʻolani Park and Kalākaua Avenue on the makai side (1921-1928.)  The dredge material not only filled in the makai Waikīkī wetlands, but it was also used to fill in the McKinley High School site.

During the 1920s, the Waikīkī landscape would be transformed when the construction of the Ala Wai Drainage Canal, begun in 1921 and completed in 1928, resulted in the draining and filling in of the remaining ponds and irrigated fields of Waikīkī.

By 1924, the dredging of the Ala Wai Canal and filling of the wetlands stopped the flows of the Pi‘inaio, ‘Āpuakēhau and Kuekaunahi streams running from the Makiki, Mānoa, and Pālolo valleys to and through Waikīkī.

With construction of the Ala Wai Canal, 625-acres of wetland were drained and filled and runoff was diverted away from Waikīkī beach.  The completion of the Ala Wai Canal not only gave impetus to the development of Waikīkī as Hawai‘i’s primary visitor destination, but also expanded the district’s potential for residential use.

Then, in 1956, Hawaiian Electric installed cables across the Ala Wai Canal to provide Waikīkī with additional electric power capacity. (HECO)

As part of the installation process, “A ‘road’ nearly spanning the Ala Wai has appeared almost overnight, surprising thousands of passers-by who are accustomed to seeing the canal as an unbroken ribbon of water from Kapahulu to the sea.”

“But Hawaiian Electric Co. assured the public yesterday that the ‘road’ would stay there only as long as to bury a 44,000-volt cable needed to bring more electricity to an expanding Waikiki.”

“The ‘road’ will support cranes which will dig a trench 23 feet deep and four feet wide under the Ala Wai. Then the cable will be laid across the canal, down Kaiolu St. and ino the Waikiki sub station.”

“Erling V Schoenberg, Hawaiian Electric’s superintendent for the job, said the Ala Wai ‘road’ was the cheapest way of getting the digging equipment into the area.”  (Advertiser, Sep 11, 1956)

“Clam shell cranes will begin digging a ditch in the floor of the Ala Wai from a causeway today or tomorrow, according to Erling V Schoenberg, Hawaiian Electric Company underground superintendent.”

“The dirt and rock causeway was been built four-fifths of the way across the canal from the Iolani School area to Kaiolu Street. A 50-foot passage was left on the makai side for boats.”

“The cranes will dig a trench 23 feet deep and four feet wide under the Ala Wai in which a 44,0000-volt cable will be buried.  When this is accomplished, the causeway will be removed.”  (Star Bulletin, September 11, 1956)

“As electricity use increased, the original cables were replaced in 1990 with higher capacity cables …. In 2002-03, when the Canal was last dredged, it was determined the cables were at risk of damage from dredging.”

“Hawaiian Electric, DLNR and the dredging contractor developed an interim solution to dredge around the cables. The current cable relocation project will be a permanent solution to not interfere with future dredging operations.” (HECO)

Then, “The State Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) plans to dredge the Ala Wai Canal for flood control and increased recreational use starting in 2019, pending approval of permits. Hawaiian Electric currently has 46 kilovolt (kV) electrical cables buried under the canal that must be removed for efficient dredging.”

“Hawaiian Electric plans to install new 46kv cables about 40 feet below the canal using horizontal directional drilling. Once new cables are in service, the old cables will be removed. Hawaiian Electric plans to install new 46kv cables about 40 feet below the canal using horizontal directional drilling.”

“To minimize disruption from conventional trenching in the city streets, Hawaiian Electric will use horizontal directional drilling to install the new cables.”:

“As with any major construction, however, some short-term impacts are unavoidable. Hawaiian Electric will make every effort to limit closed traffic lanes, noise and dust.”  (HECO)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Sam Ka‘aekuahiwi

“From the lofty precipice on the south-east of Waipio, I had an enchanting view of a Hawaiian landscape of singular beauty and grandeur, embracing the varied scenery around, and the deep and charming valley below; the dwelling-place of twelve or fifteen hundred inhabitants …”

“With one hand clinging to little shrubs and strong grass, and with the other thrusting a sharpened staff into the earth to avoid sliding fatally down the steep, I attempted it. Friendly natives of the valley ascended part way to meet and assist me. Their ingenuity readily supplied a vehicle, by uniting bushes and branches of shrubs, and the ki plant for a drag.”

“Taking a seat at their order, on the top of it, I was gradually let down this wall on this basket, by six wakeful and sure-footed natives, two before, two behind, and one on each side.”

“With all their agility, one and another of them occasionally getting too much momentum, would suddenly slide forward a yard or two ahead of the others. We reached the bottom speedily and successfully.” (Bingham)

“Waipio Valley is a deep cleft six miles long reaching back into the rugged Kohala mountains.  It is the largest valley in the Hawaiian Islands.  It is almost one-half mile deep at the northern end and three-quarters of a mile deep at the [southern] end.”  (Honolulu Advertiser, June 24, 1956).

“It had five stores, four restaurants, one hotel, a post office, a rice mill, nine poi factories, four pool halls, and five churches. Also two jails.” (Honolulu Advertiser, June 24, 1956). The majority of these establishments were located in Nāpō‘opo‘o.

Nāpō‘opo‘o (‘the holes’) is located near Hi‘ilawe Falls on the Kukuihaele side of Waipi‘o valley. When Ellis visited the valley in 1823, this area was well populated. In 1870, the Chinese started rice farming in areas which were previously cultivated in taro. (DURP, 2001)

The May 1920 Hawaii Educational Review notes, Waipio School “is not on government land. The land is owned by the Bishop Estate and leased to the Hamakua Ditch Company.”

Samuel ‘Sam’ Makanoenoe Ka’aekuahiwi Sr was Principal of Waipio School 1920-1945 (possibly earlier than 1920). (Waipio: Māno Wai, Appendices)

Samuel Makanoenoe Ka’aekuahiwi Sr was born on June 28, 1882, in Kukuihaele, the son of Peter Pika Ka‘aekuahiwi Sr and Puhene Kahiwa. He married Amoy Akeao Akana Leong on December 31, 1903. They were the parents of at least 5 sons and 10 daughters. (FamilySearch)

“When I was four years old, my mother died. So my sister was keeping me, my older sister and my other sisters. … My father, yeah, he remarried. or only stay together, or what. I don’t know if really he remarried (No, only together.)” (son, Ted Ka‘aekuahiwi; Waipio: Māno Wai)

Sam Ka‘aekuahiwi “came from, actually from Maui. And he went to Maui Boarding School and he came to Hawaii. In the first place, he’s a teacher. … He taught at Kawaihae. That’s his first place he taught. Let’s say, maybe about five years I think.”

“And then he came to Kapulena. He taught over there, I don’t know how many years, but. And then he came down to Waipio. And then he met my mother down at Waipio Valley. Married. Start teaching down Waipio Valley.”  (Ted Ka‘aekuahiwi; Waipio: Māno Wai)

“The Waipi‘o School was a two room building, and at its peak may have had about one hundred students. Everything was taught in the English language, through four grades. I remember a succession of teachers, an Englishman with a red face and a moustache, then a Portuguese, then John Kealoha, Solomon Burke (a hapa haole), and Sam Ka‘aekuahiwi.”

“The kids were mostly Hawaiians, followed numerically by Hawaiian-Chinese, Hawaiian-Haole, and Chinese. We were supposed to speak only English on the school premises, but we actually used a pidgin of Hawaiian, English, and Chinese.”

“We used Baldwin Readers, first, second and third. We read about spring, summer, autumn, and winter without the slightest comprehension of the terms. We read of Jack Frost on the pumpkins, when outside were rose apple trees and the tradewinds brought the fragrance of wild ginger flowers into the classrooms.”

“We memorized the alphabet and the multiplication tables. We studied history and learned that George Washington was born in Westmoreland, Virginia – why that stuck in my head I’ll never know. All of us felt sorry for the American Indians and Negroes. We also learned something about Hawaiian history.”

“School hours were from nine to twelve and one to two. … The Chinese kids were the better students, especially in arithmetic, whereas the Hawaiian kids were good in music and singing. The teachers would write out the music in four parts and the kids sang it beautifully.”

“Every Friday afternoon for one hour we would have a work detail, repairing stone walls, dusting erasers—a general cleanup of the school.”

“The only times school was called off was when the valley was badly flooded. … At the high school [in Hilo] I met white kids for the first time.” (Herbert Mock “Akioka” Kāne; transcribed and edited by his son “Herb” Kawainui Kāne; Coffee Times)

In 1939, Waipio Valley had “a 3-room grammar school with one teacher, one principal (Sam Kaaekuahiwi), and 31 students; a Mormon church; two stores.”

“The school sponsors social affairs, dances and hula concerts. No mail delivery in the valley. Old Protestant church in ruins, Roman Catholic church falling apart. Non-Mormon services conducted in people’s homes. 4-H Club sponsors fairs. No electricity but they do have battery-run radios. Approximately 80 voters. Population of Waipio approximately 200.” (Waipio: Māno Wai, Appendices)

“I went to Waipio Valley School. My teacher was Samuel Kaaekuahiwi. He was the roughest teacher that I ever come across for the many years. But he was all right. … Well, when you don’t do your lessons right, you not interested, he pound you on the wall. That’s the kind of life we went through.” (Joseph Batalona, Waipio: Māno Wai)

“Sam Kaaekuahiwi, the last school teacher of Waipi‘o, told me that Kukuihaele Village got its name in ancient times when inhabitants of Waipi‘o could see travelers carrying lights on the pali trail. Kukui refers to kukui nut torches, and haele ‘to go.’” (Herbert Mock “Akioka” Kāne; transcribed and edited by his son “Herb” Kawainui Kāne; Coffee Times)

In 1949, “The 100 residents of Waipio valley, biggest wet-land taro producing area of the territory, still have hopes of getting a road into the valley.”

“But unlike residents of other areas, they have patience, knowing construction of a road from the pali nearly 1,000 feet to the floor of the valley, is preceded by many other proposed county projects with higher priority ratings.”

“Until then, however, they would like more attention shown their trails in the valley. They made their wishes known yesterday to County Chairman James Kealoha, who made a horseback trip around the valley.”

“Mrs Louisa Kanekoa told him the county neglected trimming brush which shoots up over the trails from the rich valley soil. She urged the hiring of Waipio women who, she said, are better workers than the men and would save money for the county.”

“Sam Kaaekuahiwi, former principal of the Waipio school … said the road was not only needed for transporting poi and taro to market but also to make it easier for students to attend school.”

“More than 10 children now must get up around 5 am to make the long hike up the steep incline to the Kukuihaele school, for some trip of more than three miles, he said.”

“On rainy mornings they reach the pali soaked to the skin and make a change in clothing before going to school. A few students live in Kukuihaele during the school year to avoid making the long walk.” (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Nov 5, 1949)

In 1951, Waipio had “a schoolhouse, but no teacher. … There is a phone line from the top to the bottom of the trail into Waipio. Before jeeps enter the trail they call down to see if a mule pack is coming up. Two mule trains go up each day, each with 7-9 mules.” (Waipio: Māno Wai, Appendices)  Sam Ka‘aekuahiwi Sr died December 12, 1961.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Levee

Starting about 500 years ago, early Hawaiians used the Kawainui wetland as a fishpond and to grow taro. Dryland crops around the wetland at the time of the Great Mahele included sweet potatoes, gourds, wauke (paper mulberry for making kapa), ‘awa (kava), pia (arrowroot for starch), bananas and sugar cane. (Drigot)

Rice was cultivated from the 1850s to the 1920s and then ranching and grazing became the predominant uses. (Ramsar Wetlands Information Sheet)

In the Māhele, Queen Kalama, Kamehameha III’s wife, received land within the area in and around Kawai Nui.  The land ownership changes which occurred to Queen Kalama’s ownership of the ‘ili of Kawai Nui mirrored the land use changes in general both in the region and in the islands as a whole.

Then, this area encompassing much of the Kailua ahupua‘a, was inherited by her stepfather and uncle. He promptly sold it in 1871 to a haole, Charles Coffin Harris, an American lawyer, who had by that time consolidated claim to the ahupua‘a of Kāne‘ohe as well as that of Kailua.

One of his children, Nannie Roberta Harris, became sole heir to the Harris estate, including the Kailua ahupua‘a at that time. She owned the Kailua ahupua‘a until 1917 when she and her husband sold nearly all of their interest in both Kailua and Kāne‘ohe to

Harold KL Castle. (Drigot)

When I was a kid, we referred to this area as the “swamp” – many of the old maps referred to it as such.  Auto parts shops lined the road at its edge; the dump was nearby.

Kawainui is the largest remaining wetland in Hawai‘i, encompassing approximately 830 acres of land in Kailua, Oahu. It provides important habitat for waterbirds and migratory bird species.  (Kawai Nui Marsh Master Plan, 1994; Army Corps)

When it rained hard, there were flood issues … “Damage to private dwellings, farms and property in Kailua was caused today by flood waters backing up from the swamp land in the Coconut Grove area. Residents said water was more than three feet deep in some places and was rising.” (Star Bulletin, Mary 13, 1940)

Flooding was not the only local concern … “We want to eliminate the mosquito problem and we want to reclaim the area, if possible.” (Castle; Drigot)

As late as 1956, the Kaneohe Ranch had installed a vertical pump and began pumping with such energy that, four months later, the water table of the Marsh had dropped “almost four feet and made the once forbidding marsh a lush grazing land”. (Drigot)

A stream runs through Oneawa ‘ili to the sea, providing a natural drainage for the Kawainui marsh. The Oneawa Canal (Kawainui Canal, former approximate location of Kawainui Stream) was constructed in the 1950s to provide flood control and stability for real estate development.  (Dye)

The Oneawa Canal connects Kawainui Marsh to Kailua Bay, is 9,470 feet long, and is located at the northeast corner of Kawainui Marsh. The upper streams and surface water stored in the marsh are freshwater, while the salinity of water within Oneawa Canal is brackish and tidally influenced. (Army Corps)

“Even though the Oneawa Channel (Kawainui Canal) was constructed in 1950 to prevent the major flooding of the Kailua residential area situated on the edge of the marsh, five subsequent severe floods occured in 1951, 1956, 1958, 1961 and 1963.” (Drigot)

“In 1964, after a two year intense battle for development rights to the central portion of Kawainui Marsh, Centex-Trousdale Construction Co. surrendered its claim and the City of Honolulu emerged victorious in its seven-year battle to acquire 749 acres of the Marsh for flood control and park purposes when, with federal assistance, they purchased the Centex-Trousdale properties”. (Drigot)

Then, they built a levee … “Construction of the original Kawai Nui Marsh Flood Control Project was authorized by the Flood Control Act of 1950 and was completed in August 1966 by the Corps. Project features included … a 6,850-foot-long earthen levee with a maximum crest elevation of 9.5 feet; a 50-foot-long stub groin and 50-foot-long revetment at the outlet of Oneawa Channel”.  (Army Corps)

Over the years, vegetation within the marsh created a dense mat that affected the hydraulics of the marsh causing the project to be overtopped during the January 1988 storm.

“From December 31, 1987 through January 1, 1988, severe flooding of the Coconut Grove community occurred when the water level in the marsh exceeded the crest of the existing levee. Following this storm event, an emergency ditch was excavated alongside the levee to increase outflow from the marsh.” (Army Corps)

The floodwall has a maximum height of four feet and is 6,300 feet long extending from Kailua Road on the south to the Oneawa outlet channel on the north. The levee fills 1.8 acres of wetland fringe and provides a higher level of flood damage reduction to a larger part of Coconut Grove, which has more than 2,000 structures. (Army Corps)

By then, the Kawainui wetland reference had changed from “swamp” to “marsh.”  More recently, Kawainui Marsh was recognized as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance in 2005 for its historical, biological, and cultural significance. (DLNR)

Ramsar is the name of the city in Iran where the Ramsar Convention, or the Convention on Wetlands of International Importance, was signed in 1971 and came into force in 1975.

Ramsar is not an acronym, and the convention is also known as “Ramsar”. The convention’s goals are to stop the loss of wetlands worldwide and to conserve the remaining wetlands through management and use.  (Ramsar Convention of Wetlands)

Sacred to Hawaiians, Kawainui Marsh, the largest remaining emergent wetland in Hawaii and Hawai‘i’s largest ancient freshwater fishpond, is located in what was once the center of a caldera of the Ko‘olau shield volcano.

The marsh provides primary habitat for four of Hawai‘i’s endemic and endangered waterbirds (Hawaiian Duck, koloa; Hawaiian Coot (‘alae ke‘oke‘o); Hawaiian Moorhen (‘alae ‘ula) and Hawaiian Stilt (kukuluae‘o (abbreviated as ae‘o)) and contains archaeological and cultural resources, including ancient walled taro lo‘i where fish were also cultivated. (Ramsar)

In addition, the levee has become a pathway that people within the surrounding community use for walking, running and biking.  Other recreation includes bird and wildlife watching.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Old Koloa Town

“Koloa is the product of all of the peoples and cultures who have come to live there … ‘Families were close, and there was more than enough love for children and the elderly. . . . Hard work and character were respected as were other old fashioned values such as cleanliness, decency and courtesy.’”

“‘Crime was virtually unknown . . . the people of Koloa did not have to contend with the negative aspects we have in so many parts of our country today: illegitimacy, drug use, senseless violence at a presumed slight, or the rioting and looting that destroy a community . . .”

“. . . those who were old enough to remember Koloa as children and are still with us agree the high water-mark was in the thirties; and the tide has been receding slowly since’”. Donohugh; Bushnell)

“The last direct hit [to Kauai] was by Hurricane Dot in 1959. Dot passed south of Oahu but took a sudden turn to the north and hit Kauai, its eye passing right over Lihue.”

On November 23, 1982, “Hurricane Iwa aimed winds gusting to 110 mph at Hawaii Tuesday and 5,000 residents of Kauai island were evacuated from the storm that posed the fiercest threat to the islands since 1959.” (UPI)

“Property loss was estimated at $130 million by Thomas C. Hamner, the Federal emergency relief coordinator. … Some landmarks are gone, particularly along the island’s south coast, which were hit by the strongest winds.” (NY Times)

Old Kōloa Town grew up around the Plantation industry, attracting people to come work there from many different countries. Plantation workers not only labored, lived and shopped on the plantation, they also received medical care.

Kōloa’s buildings housed plantation stores and services for these people, including Kauai’s first hotel. Kōloa was the center of agriculture and, as such, became the center of activity for Kauai.

“Of course, we heard there was going to be a hurricane, so I had the radio on. And I was watching. And they start telling that, ‘You people better be prepared with candles or something because the lights going off.’  And I looked around all over the place, and I just couldn’t find one candle. And I thought, ‘I better go up to the store and get one.’”

“When I opened the door, it was just cats and dogs. It was raining and blowing. I said, ‘Oh, no. I’m not going.’ So I shut the door, and then I looked in all the drawers, and finally I found one big one that in the restaurants, in the hotels, they use in the cup?”

“Those, yeah. I had one of those, so I thought, ‘Oh, this should last.’ So I had it here. I sat here and I looked outside and it was blowing gales. And I thought, ‘Chee, I better sit here. And just in case the house should come down, then if I lay down between here, then it will protect me.’”

“Then, next morning, early, I went out, I see my neighbor’s house, Aoki’s house, the roof had all flown away, the living room. And then, the roof flied, was way over on the other side of the bridge and some was on the bushes.” (Kōloa resident, Masako Hanzawa Sugawa; UH Oral History)

Hurricane ʻIwa damaged some of the structures in the town, most were simply old.  Then, a group called Kōloa Town Associates (KTA) persuaded the Smith‐Waterhouse Family Partnership to grant the group a long-term lease on the property comprising the core of the town.

The stated intention was to restore the historic structures in this part of Kōloa. Project architect Spencer Leineweber and landscape architect Michael S Chu collaborated in preparing the overall master plan and detailed design work for the restoration and repair of Old Koloa Town.

The challenge for the design team was to preserve the town without imposing twentieth century aesthetics. The focus for the development was on three major principles: design, organization, and economic restructuring. (Leineweber & Chu)

“As he had done with several Chinatown properties, Gerrell is trying out his ‘preservation and profit’ formula to ‘return Koloa Town to its original appearance’ and attract more visitors to Kauai.” (SB, May 12, 1983)

“[Bob] Gerell … doing business as Koloa Town Associates, has signed a 67-year lease with the Mabel P Waterhouse Trust. Waterhouse has owned much of the town’s commercial property since 1850.”

“Gerell has begun refurbishing 18 buildings on four acres of land in the original town … He plans to demolish some ‘unsalvageable’ structures and build six or seven new structures with space for up to 25 tenants.” (SB May 12, 1983)

“When we took over, there were 18 original plantation-style buildings. Our intent was to renovate them back to this original appearance. We were able to save 13, but the rest were in such bad condition that they had to be torn down.” (Gerell, SB, Aug 29, 1984)

“The design development of the oldest area, known as the Kahalewai Court, concentrated on restoration of the old general store and the old hotel building. Since the Yamamoto Store has the strongest visual image for Koloa, this area will become the visual gateway to the development.”

“The area will have an open lawn for outdoor performances. A dry stream bed will meander through the area to provide a necessary relief drainage system. It is quite common in older developments that the buildings are not always positioned in the most ideal locations for drainage.”

“Since the existing relationship with the ground was critical to the overall perception and scale of the buildings, a secondary drainage system that was not foreign to the old town was added so that the original ground drainage patterns could remain.”

“The second area in the town’s development was the Plantation House Shops. As the plantation expanded, housing for the workers began to develop around the town. A portion of these residential buildings will be developed into small craftsman-style shops. The landscape development in this area will be residential in scale and have that ‘chopsuey’ look of many plantation villages.”

“The last area of the town to develop was the false front ‘old west’ commercial structures. These buildings will once again have canopies over the sidewalk and boardwalks connecting the buildings to each other. Large shop windows that have been boarded up for years will once again display merchandise.” (Leineweber & Chu)

The wooden walkway along Kōloa Road in front of the buildings was added to facilitate tourist shopping. Some attention was paid to exterior features such as false fronts to give an appearance from the street similar to the original. Kōloa Town Associates named the resulting group of new buildings ‘Old Kōloa Town’ and leased them to businesses catering to tourists.

Although the majority of the structures were in an extremely dilapidated condition when the project began, the emphasis of the renovation was to bring the historic assets of the town back into focus. Techniques for accomplishing this include the careful repair of cornice moldings, small window panes, decorative rail work, as well as substantial replacement of structural beams and roofings. (Leineweber & Chu)

“One of the distinct advantages of a shopping center, organization of the tenants, was applied to Koloa. Since the developer, Mr. Robert Gerell, has a sixty-seven-year master lease with the landowner, all of the shops can have a similar lease. This arrangement gives them common marketing advantages (promotions, sales, common store hours, signage).”

“The merchants begin to give up the idea of being the biggest and the best on the block and seek a stronger image of being part of a larger whole.”

“The revitalization of any area cannot happen overnight. The emphasis is not on instant solution to problems that have taken years to develop. A gradual but steady program of improvements based on a flexible master plan is essential in anticipating the dynamics of this town of Koloa.” (Leineweber & Chu)

Monkeypod trees are the signature of Kōloa Town. The trees line Kōloa, Weliweli, Waikomo and Po‘ipū Roads. They enhance the character and atmosphere of Hawai‘i’s first plantation town.

Two monkeypod seeds were been brought to Hawai‘i from Mexico by Mr. Peter Brinsdale who was the American Consul in 1847. The seeds were germinated and the seedlings planted. One was planted in Kōloa. The second seedling was planted in Honolulu. This tree was removed when the Alexander Young Hotel was built on the site.

Old Koloa Town is part of the region’s Holo Holo Kōloa Scenic Byway.  We prepared the Corridor Management Plan for the Byway. The CMP was recognized with a “Preservation Commendation” from Historic Hawai‘i Foundation and the American Planning Association – Hawaiʻi Chapter presented Hoʻokuleana LLC with the “Community-Based Planning” award.

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