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March 20, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Amelia Earhart’s Crash in Hawaii

Amelia Earhart came to Hawaiʻi twice (December 27, 1934 to January 11, 1935 (to make her record flight from Hawaiʻi to the continent) and March 17 through March 20, 1937 (as part of the first plan to fly around-the-world.))

“Over the Christmas holiday (1934,) Amelia Earhart and George Putnam, along with Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mantz, arrived in Honolulu on December 27, having sailed on the Matson liner SS Lurline. Amelia’s Lockheed Vega was secured on the ocean liner’s deck.  The group spent two weeks vacationing in Hawaiʻi.”  She visited Hilo and planted a banyan tree on “Hilo Walk of Fame.”

Five days after planting the banyan tree, she took off from Wheeler Field, Oʻahu and after 18-hours and 15-minutes, Amelia and “Old Bessie, the Fire Horse,” made a perfect landing at Oakland Airport at 1:31, January 12, 1935,  she was engulfed by a cheering crowd of 5,000-enthusiastic supporters.

It was another record flight for Amelia – the very first person, man or woman, to fly solo between Hawaiʻi and the American continent and the first civilian airplane to carry a two-way radio. (Plymate)

A commemorative plaque to honor her trans-pacific solo flight was put up on Diamond Head Road.  Documents of that flight were placed in a copper box and inserted into the plaque’s base on March 6.  It was dedicated on March 14, 1937.

The last Hawaiʻi visit was part of her planned flight around-the-world.  She assembled a team to make an around-the-world flight (navigators Fred Noonan and Captain Harry Manning, as well as technical advisor/assistant navigator Paul Mantz.)  It wouldn’t be the first around-the world flight, but it would be the longest, taking an equatorial route.

They set out from Oakland on St. Patrick’s Day (March 17, 1937) and headed for Hawaiʻi on the first leg of their journey.  After 15-hours and 47-minutes they landed at Wheeler Field.  (From there they would travel on to Howland Island in the South Pacific, and then on to Australia.)  The plane was moved to Luke Field on Ford Island for take-off on the next leg.

“At 3:45 am, March 20, 1937, we opened the Hangar and placed the airplane on the Line. Mrs. Putnam and crew arrived about 4:30 am. Mr. Mantz requested an additional seventy-five gallons of gasoline, making a total of 590 gallons furnished.”

“At 4:45 am Press representatives arrived and established themselves in my office without advance notice. As soon as this was brought to my attention I notified these gentlemen that all telephone charges were to be reversed and positively not charged to me or to the Government. …”

“At 5:00 am Mr. Mantz thoroughly inspected the airplane, tested the engines, and shut them off. The flood lights were turned on and Mrs. Putnam inspected the runway from the cockpit of the airplane.”

“A light rain during the night had wet the runway. The lights were turned off and Mr. Noonan and Mr. Manning boarded the airplane. Mrs. Putnam [Amelia Earhart] started the engines at 5:30 am and at 5:40 am taxied Northeast down the Navy side of the runway to the lower end accompanied by Mr. Young and Mr. Mantz on the ground with flashlights.”

“After Mrs. Putnam had taxied about one-third of the way down the runway a Grumman Amphibian taxied out from the Navy Hangars and followed her airplane down the Field. …”

“The sky toward Honolulu was dark and Koolau Range was barely discernable against the background of dark clouds. Off Barbers Point, however, the sky was surprisingly bright with good visibility. Smoke from two dredges at the mouth of Pearl Harbor was plainly noticeable. A scattered broken ceiling was perhaps 3,000 feet.”

“General Yount assured himself that the crash truck and ambulance were placed on the alert. Mrs. Putnam made a 180 degree left turn at the far end of the runway and momentarily halted the airplane on the center line of the runway.”

“The air being still, there was but the usual lag in sound travel and as soon as the airplane moved forward I heard the steady synchronous roar characteristic of full throttle application.” (Statement of First Lieutenant Donald D. Arnold, Air Corps, Engineering Officer, Hawaiian Air Deport, Luke Field; TIGHAR)

“At 5:53 am on March 20, 1937, she began the take-off roll.  The twin-engine plane gained momentum.  Suddenly, at the 1,000 foot mark the right tire blew.  The strain broke completely the right landing gear sending the Electra severely to one side.”

“Forced into a hard dip, the right wing was badly damaged.  One gas tank was punctured, allowing fuel to spew onto the terrain.  The right engine case was cracked badly and the rear end of the fuselage torn and dented.”

“Cool-headed as ever, Miss Earhart and her flying companions climbed unceremoniously out of the aircraft  They were unhurt, thanks to the pilot’s expert handling of her controls.  Ten seconds more and the plane would have been airborne, lamented the female air-hero!” (Hovart)

“I heard her say to the crew, ‘The ship functioned perfectly at the start. As it gained speed the right wing dropped down and the ship seemed to pull to the right.’”

“‘I eased off the left engine and the ship started a long persistent left turn and ended up where it is now. It was all over instantly. The first thing I thought of was the right oleo or the right tire letting go. The way the ship pulled it was probably a flat tire.’” (Statement of First Lieutenant Donald D. Arnold; TIGHAR)

“On Saturday morning, March 20, I was standing at the edge of the runway approximately half way between each end with a 1 qt. fire extinguisher on the alert in case of an accident.”

“The motors on the Earhart plane sounded as if they were opened up to about half throttle. The plane proceeded up the runway approximately 100 yards when both motors were given full throttle.”

“Very shortly thereafter I noticed a slight tendency to turn to the right, immediately the motors sounded as if one had been slightly reduced in speed.”

“The plane began a turn to the left which was very pronounced and at an angle approximately 45 degrees to parallel with the runway both motors were turned off, the plane proceeded approximately 10 feet and started to turn in a very short circle, the landing gear collapsed and the plane slid backwards a short distance. Then I immediately ran in to render aid.” (Eyewitnees account by EL Heidlebaugh; TIGHAR)

“Within six hours after the crackup, Miss Earhart was aboard the Malolo heading for San Francisco.  ‘I’ll be back,’ she declared determinedly.” (Hovart)

“On May 21, 1937, Amelia Earhart and navigator Fred Noonan began a round-the-world flight, beginning in Oakland, California, and traveling east in a twin-engine Lockheed Electra. They departed Miami on June 1 and reached Lae, New Guinea, on June 29, having flown 21 of 30 days and covered 22,000 miles. They left Lae on July 2 for their next refueling stop, Howland Island.” (Smithsonian)

“The flight was expected to be arduous, especially since the tiny coral atoll was difficult to locate. To help with navigation, two brightly lit US ships were stationed to mark the route. Earhart was also in intermittent radio contact with the Itasca, a U.S. Coast Guard cutter near Howland.”

“Late in the journey, Earhart radioed that the plane was running out of fuel. About an hour later she announced, “We are running north and south.” That was the last transmission received by the Itasca. The plane was believed to have gone down some 100 miles from the island, and an extensive search was undertaken to find Earhart and Noonan.”

“However, on July 19, 1937, the operation was called off, and the pair was declared lost at sea.” (Britannica)

© 2025 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: General, Prominent People, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Amelia Earhart, Ford Island

March 19, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Agreement of 1810

At the end of the American Revolutionary War, the Treaty of Paris, signed on September 3, 1783, recognized the United States of America as an independent nation and established boundaries that extended far to the west of the 13 original colonies.

The new country was bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the east, the Mississippi River on the west, Florida on the south and Canada and the Great Lakes on the north. Spain retained control of Florida, and the United States was permitted use of the Mississippi River.

In 1803, President Thomas Jefferson negotiated the 828,000-square mile Louisiana Purchase from France.  Later, after combat and negotiations, the US ran east to west across the continent.

In the Islands … Following Kalaniʻōpuʻu’s death in 1782, the kingship was inherited by his son Kīwalaʻō; Kamehameha (Kīwalaʻō’s cousin) was given guardianship of the Hawaiian god of war, Kūkaʻilimoku.

In the Islands, about the time of the Treaty of Paris, civil war broke out between Kīwalaʻō’s forces and the various chiefs under the leadership of Kamehameha. With the battle of Mokuʻōhai in 1782, Kamehameha I began a war of conquest, and, by 1795, with his superior use of modern weapons and western advisors, he subdued all other chiefdoms, with the exception of Kauai.

Then, Kamehameha looked to conquer the last kingdom, Kauai, which was under the control of Kaumualiʻi.  In 1804, King Kamehameha I moved his capital from Lāhainā, Maui to Honolulu on O‘ahu, and planned an attack on Kauai. Weather and sickness thwarted the invasions. 

Then, there was a period of diplomatic posturing between Kamehameha and Kauai’s Chief Kaumuali‘i that resulted in a face-to-face meeting on O’ahu in 1810.

“American captain … Jonathan Winship … told Kamehameha he would fetch Kaumuali‘i from Kauai and bring him before Kamehameha.  The reason this foreigner desired to be the one to fetch Kaumuali‘i was that he was engaged in selling sandalwood and, he knew that, if these ali‘i ‘ai moku began a war, his trade in sandalwood would be harmed.”

“This foreigner really did sail to Kauai and conferred with Kaumuali‘i. He advised Kaumuali‘i to cease thinking of war with Kamehameha who was in a state of readiness for war and also was furnished with warships which could fire on the land of Kauai” (Kamakau).

“When the canoes reached a spot in the harbor just outside of Ulakua, the single canoe went alone into Mamala channel. Passing the surf of Awalua, it proceeded to Kukuluaeo, close to the surf. It was not noticed by those on board the ship, for they were busy watching the double canoes and boats for sight of the king.”

“Kamehameha’s canoe, which was on the seaward side and about half a mile away when the other canoes drew close to the ship, caught the crest of a wave and rode in, reaching the ship ahead of the other craft.” (John Papa ‘I‘i)

“Kamehameha hastened aboard and stood inside of the railing with the pig in his arms. He freed the pig as Kaumualii stood up, and it ran immediately to Kaumualii.”

“Then the king said to Kaumualii, ‘Homai ko lima (Give me your hand).’ Thus they greeted each other kindly and with true affection. The king stayed on board ship only long enough to greet all of the chiefs of Kauai, then announced his return to shore … and pointed out the place where they were to land.”  (John Papa ‘I‘i)

1810 marked the unification of the Hawaiian Islands under single rule when negotiations between King Kaumuali‘i of Kauai and Kamehameha I at Pākākā took place.

What was the agreement between Kamehameha and Kaumuali‘i?

We learn of the apparent terms from Manasseh Stow. Stow (1788-1844) sailed on the Ship Hunter from Boston, captained by William M. Rogers, on August 13, 1810.  He maintained a journal covering a six year voyage to the South Pacific, China, California and Hawaii, including a residence on Oahu.

Stow includes what he states is a “Copy of an agreement between Tamaamaa [Kamehameha] and Tamoree [Kaumuali‘i]”

“1—These are to Certify that by the earnest request of Tamoomao [Kamehameha] King of the Island of Owhyhee, Mowee, Morotai, &c &c and his Chiefs, and by the particular desire of Tamoree [Kaumuali‘i] King of Atooi and Onehow and his Chiefs.”

“I have brought the said Tamoree with his Chiefs  relations and friends to this Island of Woahoo the present Residence of Tamaamao for the purpose of settling a long dispute between them and to put an end to all War and commotion among these Islands.”

“2- That we were politely rec’d and sumptuously entertained during our residence on the Island and all differences amicably adjusted by a mutual Contenence between the two Kings”

“3- The said Tamaamao promises on his part never to visit or invade the Islands of Atooi or Onehow with any military armament or hostile intentions and also promises to exert himself to maintain Tamoree on the Island of Atooi and Onehow if necessary.”

“4- In witness thereof we have hereunto put our hands and seals this 20th day of March in the year of our lord 1810.” 

[The agreement was signed by Jonn Winship, who Peter Mills notes “served as the mediator between Kamehameha and Kaumuali‘i in 1810” and Kamehameha. It was further “signed, sealed and delivered in the presence of Thomas Robinson and Francis de Paula Marin”.]

“Kalanimoku was there to discuss these matters with them and said to Kaumualii, ‘Take care of the chief Liholiho, who belongs to you and to your cousin Kaahumanu. Liholiho shall be the heir.’ Thus we can be thankful for the soundness of the prophecies uttered before Kaumualii came hither.”

“When their personal possessions had been made ready, the Kauai company returned to their island. They took with them brotherly affection as chiefs of a united land, parents of the people, and associates of those from foreign countries.”

“Perhaps this was to establish in this archipelago the true religion, whereby we are now seeing the rapid growth and increase of righteousness.” (John Papa ‘I‘i)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance Tagged With: Kamehameha, Honolulu Harbor, Kaumualii, Pakaka, Agreement of 1810, 1810, Hawaii

March 18, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Molokai or Molokaʻi?

Words matter … and how you say and write words matter.

There is one word, the name of one of the main Hawaiian Islands, that continues to have different pronunciations – some say Moh-loh-kī others say Moh-loh-kah-ee.

In an effort to be correct, I looked at various sources to see what they had to say.  A helpful source is actually some of the early writers to the islands.

When Captain Cook first visited the Hawaiian Islands (1778,) Hawaiian was a spoken language but not a written language.  Historical accounts were passed down orally, through chants and songs.

After western contact and attempts to write about Hawaiʻi, early writers tried to spell words based on the sound of the words they heard.  People heard words differently, so it was not uncommon for words to be spelled differently, depending on the writer.

Here is the way some of the early writers spelled some of the main Hawaiian Islands:

Cook (1778—1779:)
Oreehoua (Lehua)
Tahoora (Kaʻula)
Oneeheow (Niʻihau)
Atooi (Kauai)
Woahoo (Oʻahu)
Morotoi, or Morokoi (Molokai)
Mowee (Maui)
Owhyhee (Hawaiʻi)

Vancouver (1793-1795:)
Woahoo (Oʻahu)
Mowee (Maui)
Morotoi (Molokai)
Owhyhee (Hawaiʻi)
Attowai (Kauai)

Bingham (1820-1840:)
Ha-wai’i
Mau’i
O-a’hu
Kau-ai’
Mo-lo-kai’
La-nai’
Ni-i-hau’
Ka-ho-o-la’we
Mo-lo-ki’ni
Le-hu’-a.
Ka-u’-la

Here are some writings from some other early writers:

Eveleth’s 1831 book “History of the Sandwich Islands” spells it Mo-lo-kai (and adds a pronunciation helper – Mo-lo-kye).

Williams’ 1859 “Application of the Roman Alphabet” spells it Mo-lo-kai (and includes the same pronunciation helper, Mo-lo-kye)

Worchester’s 1860 “Primary Dictionary of the Hawaiian language notes Mō-lo-kaī’.

Webster’s 1870 “Improved pronouncing dictionary of the English language” notes the Islands as Mo-lo-kai’.

Colum, in his 1937 “Legends of Hawaiʻi” book, spelled the Island as Mo–lo-kai.

Finally, an explanation on the pronunciation/spelling of the island name (Molokai (Moh-loh-kī) versus Molokaʻi (Moh-loh-kah-ee)) is noted in the early portion of “Tales of Molokai The Voice of Harriet Ne” by Harriet Ahiona Ayau Ne with Gloria L. Cronin.

Harriet Ne’s grandson, Edward Halealoha Ayau, noted:

“The reason that the name Molokai (as used in the book) is left without the glottal stop is because my tūtū wahine (grandmother) says that when she was growing up in Pelekunu it was never pronounced Molokaʻi (Moh-loh-kah-ee), but rather Molokai (Moh-loh-kī).”

“Then in about the 1930s, the name changed to Molokaʻi, in part she believes because musicians began pronouncing the name that way. Mary Kawena Pukuʻi, three weeks before her death, called my tūtū and told her that the correct name is Molokai, which means ‘the gathering of the ocean waters.’”

“On the rugged north coast of the island, the ocean slams hard into the pali. On the south and east shores, the ocean glides gently to shore due to location of reefs at least a quarter of a mile offshore. Hence the name, Molokai, ‘Gathering of the Ocean Waters.’”

In a follow-up exchange with Halealoha, he resolved the matter saying that the “best answer is both pronunciations are correct and the most correct depends on which family you are speaking to.  So for our ʻohana, it would be Molokai.  For others, Molokaʻi.”

The image shows an 1897 map of the Island of Molokai.

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Place Names, General, Hawaiian Traditions Tagged With: Hawaii, Molokai

March 17, 2025 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Saint Patrick’s Day

Saint Patrick was a 5th-century Romano-British Christian missionary and bishop in Ireland. Known as the “Apostle of Ireland”, he is the primary patron saint of the island.

Legend credits St. Patrick with teaching the Irish about the doctrine of the Holy Trinity by showing people the shamrock, a three-leafed plant, using it to illustrate the Christian teaching of three persons (the Father, the Son (Jesus) and the Holy Spirit) in one God.  (Shamrocks are a central symbol for St Patrick’s Day.)  St Patrick is also credited with ridding Ireland of snakes, chasing them into the sea.

St. Patrick features in many stories in the Irish oral tradition and there are many customs connected with his feast day.  March 17, popularly known as St. Patrick’s Day, is believed to be his death date and is the date celebrated as his feast day.

St. Patrick has never been formally canonized by a Pope; nevertheless, various Christian churches declare that he is a Saint in Heaven (he is included in the List of Saints.)

So, today, we celebrate the death of St Patrick; we also celebrate the “birth” of Kauikeaouli.

On the night of his birth, the chiefs gathered about the mother.  Early in the morning the child was born but as it appeared to be stillborn.

Then came Kaikioʻewa from some miles away, close to Kuamoʻo, and brought with him his prophet (Kamaloʻihi or Kapihe) who said, “The child will not die, he will live.”

The child was well cleaned and laid upon a consecrated place and the seer (kaula) took a fan (peʻahi), fanned the child, prayed, and sprinkled him with water, at the same time reciting a prayer.

The child began to move, then to make sounds and at last he came to life. The seer gave the boy the name of “The red trail” (Keaweaweʻula) signifying the roadway by which the god descends from the heavens.  The name Kauikeaouli means “placed in the dark clouds.”

Kauikeaouli was the second son of Keōpūolani by Kamehameha, and she called him Kīwalaʻo after her own father. She was the daughter of Kiwalaʻo and Kekuʻiapoiwa Liliha, both children of Kalola and hence Keōpūolani was a niʻaupiʻo and a naha chiefess, and the niʻaupiʻo rank descended to her children and could not be lost by them.  (Kamakau)

Kauikeaouli was only nine years old when his older brother Liholiho sailed to England; Liholiho died on that trip, leaving Kauikeaouli successor to the rule over Hawaiʻi. As he was then too young to assume command, affairs were administered by his guardians, Kaʻahumanu and Kalanimōku, and the other chiefs under them.

We more commonly reference Kauikeaouli as Kamehameha III.  He was the longest reigning Hawaiian monarch, serving 29-years, from 1825 to 1854.

There is scarcely in history, ancient or modem, any King to whom so many public reforms and benefits can be ascribed, as the achievements of his reign. Yet what King has had to contend with so many difficulties as King Kamehameha III? (The Polynesian, 1855)

“That the existence of the King, chiefs and the natives, can only be preserved by having a government efficient for the administration of enlightened justice, both to natives and the subjects of foreign powers residing in the islands, and that chiefly through missionary efforts the natives have made such progress in education and knowledge, as to justify the belief that by further training, they may be rendered capable of conducting efficiently the affairs of government; but that they are not at present so far advanced.”  (Kamehameha IV, in Obituary to his hānai father)

In private life, Kamehameha III was mild, kind, affable, generous and forgiving. He was never more happy than when free from the cares and trappings of state. He could enjoy himself sociably with his friends, who were much attached to him. (The Polynesian, 1855)

Having associated much, while a boy, with foreigners, he continued to the last to be fond of their company. Without his personal influence, the law to allow them to hold lands in fee simple could never have been enacted.  (The Polynesian, 1855)

It is hardly possible to conceive any King more generally beloved than was Kamehameha III; more universally obeyed, or more completely sovereign in the essential respect of independent sovereignty, that of governing his subjects free from any influence or control coming from beyond the limits of his own jurisdiction.  (The Polynesian, 1855)

Under his leadership, Hawaiʻi changed from an isolated island kingdom to a recognized member of the modem world. Many of the things he did as king still influence life in Hawaiʻi today.  (Kamehameha Schools Press)

The following are only some of the many accomplishments of Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli:)

  • On June 6, 1825, Kauikeaouli was proclaimed king of Hawaiʻi. To the people he said, “Where are you, chiefs, guardians, commoners?  I greet you.  Hear what I say! My kingdom I give to God.  The righteous chief shall be my chief, the children of the commoners who do you right shall be my people, my kingdom shall be one of letters.”  (Kamakau – Kamehameha Schools Press)
  • June 7, 1839, he signed the Declaration of Rights (called Hawai‘i’s Magna Charta) that, in part, noted, “God hath made of one blood all nations of men to dwell on the earth, in unity and blessedness. God has also bestowed certain rights alike on all men and all chiefs, and all people of all lands.”
  • June 17, 1839 he issued the Edict of Toleration permitting religious freedom for Catholics in the same way as it had been granted to the Protestants.
  • June 28, 1839 he founded Chief’s Children’s School (The Royal School;) the main goal of this school was to groom the next generation of the highest ranking chiefs’ children of the realm and secure their positions for Hawaiʻi’s Kingdom.  (He selected missionaries Amos and Juliette Cooke to teach the 16 royal children and run the school.)
  • October 8, 1840 (the King was about 27-years-old) he enacted the Constitution of 1840 that, in part, changed the government from one of an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy. It provided for a separation of powers between three branches of government, with executive power in the hands of the king, the kuhina nui (similar to a prime minister) and four governors; a bicameral legislative body consisting of a house of nobles and a house of representatives, with the house of representatives elected by the people; and a judiciary system, including a supreme court.
  • April 27, 1846 he declared that “the forests and timber growing therein shall be considered government property, and under the special care of the Minister of the Interior …;” effectively starting the process of protecting our mauka watersheds.
  • January 27, 1848 through March 7, 1848 he participated in what we refer to as the “Great Māhele” that was a reformation of the land system in Hawaiʻi and allowed private ownership.
  • June 14, 1852 he enacted the Constitution of 1852 that expanded on the Declaration of Rights, granted universal (adult male) voting rights for the first time and changed the House of Nobles from a hereditary body to one where members served by appointment by the King. It also institutionalized the three branches of government and defined powers along the lines of the American Constitution.
  • Toward the end of Kauikeaouli’s reign there were 423-schools in Hawaiʻi with an enrollment of over twelve-thousand-students. Most of the schools were elementary schools using Hawaiian as the language of instruction.

Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III) died December 15, 1854 (at the age of 41.)

Kauikeaouli’s exact birth date is not known; however, the generally accepted date is August 11, 1813.  Never-the-less, Kauikeaouli was apparently an admirer of Saint Patrick and chose to celebrate his birthday on March 17.  Happy Birthday and Cheers to Kauikeaouli, Kamehameha III.

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Kamehameha_III,_1825
Kauikeaouli Birthsite
Kaniakapupu-KamehamehaII_home_in_Nuuanu
Kamehameha_III-Kauikeaouli
Kamehameha_III_and_Kalama,_ca._1850
Kamehameha_III,_retouched_photo_by_J._J._Williams_(PP-97-7-011)-ca_1850
Guinness
Kamehameha_I
Royal School ,_probably_after_1848
Ke_Kumu_Kanawai-Constitution-1840
Great Mahele Book
Keōpūolani-(1778–1823)mother Kamehameha II, Kamehameha III-1790
Kamehameha_Dynasty_Tomb_-_Royal_Mausoleum,_Honolulu,_HI
Saint_Patrick

Filed Under: General, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance Tagged With: Kauikeaouli, Kamehameha III, Keopuolani, Hawaii, Kona, Kamehameha, Great Mahele, Hawaiian Constitution

March 16, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wahaʻula Heiau

No keia heiau oia ke kapu enaena.
(Concerning this heiau is the burning tabu.)

‘Enaena’ means ‘burning with a red hot rage.’ The heiau was so thoroughly ‘tabu,’ or ‘kapu,’ that the smoke of its fires falling upon any of the people or even upon any one of the chiefs was sufficient cause for punishment by death, with the body as a sacrifice to the gods of the temple.  (Westervelt)

Oral traditions trace the origin of Hawaiian luakini temple construction to the high priest Pā’ao, who arrived in the islands in about the thirteenth century. He introduced several changes to Hawaiian religious practices that affected temple construction, priestly ritual, and worship practices.

Prior to his coming, the prayers, sacrifices, and other ceremonial activities that the high chief and his officiating priest performed could be observed by the congregation, who periodically responded as part of the ceremony.

After Pā’ao’s arrival, temple courtyards, which were sometimes built on hillsides to add to their massiveness, were enclosed with high stone walls, preventing the masses from participating as freely in the worship ceremonies.

In addition, new gods; stronger kapu; an independent, hereditary priesthood; wooden temple images; and human sacrifices became established parts of the religious structure. Pā’ao erected the first luakini (Wahaula) at Puna, Hawaiʻi, followed by Moʻokini Heiau at Kohala. These structures signaled a new era in Hawaiian religious practices.  (NPS)

On the southeast coast of Hawaiʻi near Kalapana is one of the largest, oldest and best preserved heiau. Its walls are several feet thick and in places ten to twelve feet high. It is divided into rooms or pens, in one of which still lies the huge sacrificial stone upon which victims – sometimes human – were slain before the bodies were placed as offerings.  (Westervelt, 1915)

“At our visit to the scene we were shown the small cove, deep down the jagged bluffs of Puna’s coast line, at the southern end of Wahaʻula premises, where the bones of the slain were washed, and to this day is known as Holoinaiwi.”  (Thrum, 1904)

This heiau is now called Wahaʻula (red-mouth). In ancient times it was known as Ahaʻula (the red assembly), possibly denoting that at times the priests and their attendants wore red mantles in their processions or during some part of their sacred ceremonies.  (Westervelt)

“The Heiau of Wahaʻula is built on an ʻaʻa flow, and the ascent to it is by terraces. Upon the first terrace the female members of the royal family brought their offerings which were taken by the priests. Beyond this first terrace no female was allowed to pass.”

“Two more terraces brings one to the enclosure or temple, in the shape of a quadrangle 132 feet long, by 72 feet wide. A stone wall encloses the temple, 6 feet high and 4 feet wide. The main entrance faces the East, flanked on either side by two smaller entrances. Immediately in front of this entrance stand the remains of the old temple, which was destroyed by the ʻaʻa flow on which the present one stands.”

“Across the southern end extends a stone platform some 3 feet high built in the shape of two semi-circles connected by a straight platform. Between these semi-circles was placed the presiding deity, and on either hand were placed the offerings of fruits, etc., while immediately in front, on a small raised platform were placed the human sacrifices, which were always slain in the main entrance to the heiau.”

“Immediately in front of this altar for human sacrifices, and extending across the enclosure, stood the priests’ house. sacred to them alone. In the rear of this was the royal house, where the members of the royal family assembled during the days devoted to the sacrifices. The rest of the enclosure was paved.”  (Thrum)

“Water-worn pebbles were carried from the beach and strewn over the floor, making a smooth place for the naked feet of the temple dwellers to pass without injury from the sharp-edged lava. Rude grass huts built on terraces were the abodes of the priests and high chiefs who visited the places of sacrifice.”

“Elevated, flat-topped piles of stones were built at one end of the temple for the chief idols and the sacrifices placed before them. Simplicity of detail marked every step of temple erection.”  (Westervelt)

“(I)in the original enclosure of the heiau of Wahaʻula was a sacred grove, said to contain one or more specimens of every tree growing on the Hawaiian group, a number of which, or their descendants, had survived when he visited the place in 1869. … It was built in the quadrangular or parallelogram form which characterized all the heiaus built under and after the religious regime introduced by Pāʻao.”  (Fornander)

Beyond the heiau, on the makai side of the trail, is pointed out the footprint of Niheu, a demi-god, as well as the mark of an arrow which he shot at another demi-god who came to fight him. Further west, makai of the place where the trail turns mauka, is Kamoamoa, where the ranch driving pens are.

Here are two wells with fair water, and also a fine natural arch by the sea. Here are also a few interesting rock carvings. The most easily found of these is about a hundred yards from the paddock extension towards Kalapana, and may be located by following the line of this extension’s makai wall in an easterly direction.

The trail is straight, with a bad grade, but paved, until it has reached well up the bluff, where it passes the Pea house, the last habitation before the Crater Hotel is reached. From Pea’s it is a good eight miles to the Makaopuhi crater. The trail is narrow, passes through splendid forest, and is, though seldom used, quite easily followed.  (Kinney, 1913)

“Tradition credits a rebuilding of the temple to Imaikalani, a famous chief of Puna, and Kaʻū, in the time of Keawenui-a-umi, in the sixteenth century. It was repaired again in the time of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, about 1770, and in the time of Kamehameha I, it had its final renovation.”  (Thrum)

“This was the last heiau destroyed when the ancient tabus and ceremonial rites were overthrown by the chiefs just before the coming of Christian missionaries. At that time the grass houses of the priests were burned and in these raging flames were thrown the wooden idols back of the altars and the bamboo huts of the soothsayers and the rude images on the walls, with everything combustible which belonged to the ancient order of worship. Only the walls and rough stone floors were left in the temple.  (Westervelt)

Kīlauea’s ongoing Puʻu ʻŌʻō eruption started on January 3, 1983 when ground fissures opened up and “curtains of fire” (long thin fountains of molten lava) issued from a 3½-miles long discontinuous fissure system in the remote rainforest of the middle east rift zone of the volcano.

Since then, about 500-acres have been added to the Big Island (that volume of lava could have filled 1.5-million swimming pools. The coastal highway has been closed since 1987, as lava flows covered 8 miles to as great a depth as 80 feet. 214-homes were destroyed.

“The apprehensions uniformly entertained by the natives, of the fearful consequences of Pele’s anger, prevented their paying very frequent visits to the vicinity of her abode; and when, on their inland journeys, they had occasion to approach Kirauea, they were scrupulously attentive to every injunction of her priests, and regarded with a degree of superstitious veneration and awe the appalling spectacle which the crater and its appendages presented.”

“The violations of her sacred abode, and the insults to her power, of which we had been guilty, appeared to them, and to the natives in general, acts of temerity and sacrilege; and, notwithstanding the fact of our being foreigners, we were subsequently threatened with the vengeance of the volcanic deity, under the following circumstances.”  (Ellis, 1831)

The Wahaʻula Heiau was threatened three times in 1989 and once in 1990, but the lava flowed only up to the walls before diverting around them, but destroyed the visitor center and related facilities (built by the National Park Service in 1964, was destroyed by lava in June 1989.)  However, a subsequent 1997 flow breached the walls and covered the heiau. (star-bulletin)

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Volcano, Pele, Kilauea, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Kalapana, Wahaula Heiau, Puu Oo

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