Queen Liliuokalani | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

March 15, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ala Loa

Throughout the years of late-prehistory, A.D. 1400s – 1700s, and through much of the 1800s, transportation and communication within the Hawaiian kingdom was by canoe and by major trail systems.

Although the canoe was a principal means of travel in ancient Hawai‘i, extensive cross-country trail networks enabled gathering of food and water and harvesting of materials for shelter, clothing, medicine, religious observances and other necessities for survival.

Ancient trails, those developed before western contact in 1778, facilitated trading between upland and coastal villages and communications between ahupua‘a and extended families.

These trails were usually narrow, following the topography of the land. Sometimes, over ‘a‘ā lava, they were paved with water worn stones.

Over time, as needs and technology changed, the trails evolved to address these changes.

Various archaeologists note the following evolution of Hawai‘i trails:

Pre-contact/Early historical … Single-file footpath … Follow contours of coast
1820-1840 … Widened for one horse … Coastal – curbstones added
1820-1840 … Built in straight lines, inland
1841-1918 … Widened for two horses … Straight, leveled
Late-1800s-early 1900s … Widened for horse cart … Straight, leveled

Bridges also became necessary. Perhaps the first was a footbridge across the Wailuku River in Hilo, described in 1825. The first important span on O‘ahu was the Beretania Street bridge built over Nu‘uanu Stream in 1840.

By the 1830s, King Kamehameha III initiated a program of island-wide improvements on the ala loa, and in 1847, a formal program for development of the alanui aupuni (government roads) was initiated.

Sidewalks were constructed, usually of wood, as early as 1838. The first sidewalk made of brick was laid down in 1857 by watchmaker Samuel Tawson in front of his shop on Merchant Street.

Until the 1840s, overland travel was predominantly by foot and followed the traditional trails. By the 1840s, the use of introduced horses, mules and bullocks for transportation was increasing, and many traditional trails – the ala loa and mauka-makai trails within ahupua‘a – were modified by removing the smooth stepping stones that caused the animals to slip.

Eventually, wider, straighter trails were constructed to accommodate horse drawn carts. Unlike the earlier trails, these later trails could not conform to the natural, sometimes steep, terrain.

They often by-passed the traditional trails as more remote coastal villages became depopulated due to introduced diseases and the changing economic and social systems.

By the early 1850s, specific criteria were developed for realigning trails and roadways, including the straightening of alignments and development of causeways and bridges.

This system of roadwork, supervised by district overseers, and funded through government appropriations – with labor by prisoners and individuals unable to pay taxes in another way – evolved over the next 40 years.

Paved streets were unknown until 1881. In that year, Fort Street was macadamized (a paving process using aggregate layers of stone with a cementing agent binder – a process named after Scotsman John Loudon McAdam,) followed by Nu‘uanu Avenue.

In 1892, Queen Lili‘uokalani and the Legislature of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i signed into law an “Act Defining Highways, and Defining and Establishing Certain Routes and Duties in Connection Therewith,” to be known as “The Highways Act, 1892.”

Through this act, all roads, alleys, streets, ways, lanes, courts, places, trails and bridges in the Hawaiian Islands, whether laid out or built by the Government or by private parties were declared to be public highways; ownership was placed in the Government (typically, under the control of the Department of Land and Natural Resources.)

Today, trails serve more as recreational features, rather than transportation links. While I was at DLNR, we oversaw “Na Ala Hele,” the State of Hawai‘i’s Trail and Access Program, administered by DLNR’s Division of Forestry and Wildlife.

It was established in 1988 in response to public concern about the loss of public access to certain trails and the threat to historic trails from development pressure.

The goal of the Na Ala Hele Program is to provide public outdoor recreation opportunities for hiking, biking, hunting, camping, equestrian and off-highway vehicle use.

Na Ala Hele has become increasingly engaged in trail management and regulatory issues due to both public and commercial recreational activities and emerging legal issues.

In addition, Na Ala Hele is charged with locating and determining whether a historic road or ancient trail falls under the Highways Act of 1892.

Likewise, the program is responsible for the inventory, and documenting ownership of specific historic trails and non-vehicular old government roads for public use where it is feasible and culturally appropriate.

Follow Peter T Young on Facebook

Follow Peter T Young on Google+

Follow Peter T Young on LinkedIn

Follow Peter T Young on Blogger

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Ancient Hawaiian trail of smooth stone across the 1823 Keaiwa (seaward) flow of Kilauea Volcano. July 10, 1924-USGS)-400

Hoapili_Trail-LaPerouse-Bay

Trail up the windward side of the Pali, Honolulu Hawaii-(BishopMuseum) ca. 1890

Driving Cattle up Pali Trail to Market – 1887

Hoapili Trail-(NPS)

Hoapili_Trail-Kula_Honuaula_Kahikinui_Kaupo-(Project_Kaeo)-(Horse-Cart-1824-1834)

Hoapili_Trail-Kanaloa_Point

Hoapili_Trail-Honuaula-(Project_Kaeo)-(Horse-Cart-1824-1834)

1871 Trail looking north toward the Pu’uhonua, Keanae’e Cliffs to the right

Mamalahoa_Trail_as_horse_trail-1900s-(HMCS-NPS)

February 26, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

The Queen’s Retreat

It’s in Maunawili and is referred to as the Boyd/Irwin/Hedemann house, due to the subsequent list of owners of the property.

Major Edward Boyd and his wife bought the land in 1869, it served as their estate.

Sugar baron William G. Irwin next purchased the estate in 1893, starting up a coffee mill, there.

C. Brewer owned the estate in the 1920s and 1930s, using it as a retreat. Kāne‘ohe Ranch bought it in 1941, when the military used it as a headquarters and rest area.

Even the Girl Scouts used it as a camp in the late-1940s.

The Hedemann family was the last to live there, until 1985, when the estate was purchased by a Japanese investor, who developed much of the surrounding area as the Luana Hills Country Club.

Since 2000, the property has been owned by HRT Ltd., the for-profit arm of the Jeanette and Harry Weinberg Foundation.

Why is it important?

The property is also referred to as the Queen’s Retreat.

King David Kalākaua and his sister, Lili‘uokalani, attended parties or simply came here to rest.

Guests would walk between two parallel rows of royal palms, farewells would be exchanged, then they would ride away on horseback or in their carriages.

Lili‘uokalani wrote “Aloha ‘Oe” after an 1878 visit to the estate.

When leaving, she witnessed a particularly affectionate farewell between a gentleman in her party and a lovely young girl from Maunawili.

As they rode up the Pali and into the swirling winds, she started to hum this melody weaving words into a romantic song. The Queen continued to hum and completed her song as they rode the winding trail down the valley back to Honolulu.

Uninhabited since about 1985, the structures and grounds of the estate are rapidly being destroyed and absorbed by the rain forest of Maunawili.

In 2005, Historic Hawai‘i Foundation put it on its Most Endangered list – the property may be lost due to lack of maintenance.

I had a chance to visit the site a few years ago. It brought back old memories. I had visited it many times before.

As a kid, I used to go to school with the Hedemanns and visited their home several times, decades ago. Back then, I never knew what the place was all about; it was merely the Hedemann’s house.

When I saw the property, again, a few years ago, I learned the stories of the place. I had a chance to see the palm-lined walkway leading to the house.

This is a very special place.

I am hopeful that the property can be maintained and access made public, so people can see and feel what inspired the Queen to write Aloha ‘Oe.

Follow Peter T Young on Facebook

Follow Peter T Young on Google+

Follow Peter T Young on LinkedIn

Follow Peter T Young on Blogger

Aloha_Oe-Hawaiian-English

Crown Princess Liliuokalani of Hawaii photographed in London during Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee-(WC)-c._1887

Aloha_Oe-Sheet_Music-Cover

Palm lined path

Queen’s-Retreat-(historichawaii)

Queen’s_Retreat-(historichawaii)

Trail up the windward side of the Pali, Honolulu Hawaii-(BishopMuseum) ca. 1890

Driving Cattle up Pali Trail to Market – 1887

Old_Pali_Road._Building_of_the_New_pali_Road_1900._Wilson_&_Whitehouse_contract

Nuuanu_Pali-Koolau_Range-1889

November 10, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lili‘uokalani and the Episcopal Church

“American bishop of Honolulu celebrated the Holy Communion at Saint Andrew’s Cathedral at seven am, on August 10, 1902, and Queen Liliuokalani was present and communicated. Some days after this he called at Washington Place by appointment and she stated in welcoming him that she sincerely hoped the Church would prosper and grow.”

“On subsequent calls upon the Queen, as everyone here called her, she talked of the overthrow of the monarchy and expressed herself calmly and with resignation.” (Restarick)

“That first night of my imprisonment was the longest night I have ever passed in my life; it seemed as though the dawn of day would never come. I found in my bag a small Book of Common Prayer according to the ritual of the Episcopal Church.”

“It was a great comfort to me, And before retiring to rest Mrs. Clark and I spent a few minutes in the devotions Appropriate to the evening.” (Liliʻuokalani)

“She was for years, after our coming, a regular attendant at the Hawaiian Service at the cathedral. She always had with her certain attendants who sat in the seat behind her.”

“The service at that time was all in Hawaiian but portions of it are now in English because the young people understand little of the language of their parents.”

“The Queen had been brought up in the Congregational Mission and it was after the revolution, when she was a prisoner in the palace, that Bishop Willis ministered to her in her trouble. She frequently stated that Bishop Willis had been a great comfort and help to her.”

“The sons of the old missionaries were largely instrumental in bringing about the over throw and she naturally felt this, although before her death her friendship for them had returned and she showed her confidence and trust in them in many ways.”

“She was confirmed in Saint Andrew’s Cathedral on May 13, 1896. She became the president of the Hawaiian Guild which was organized in 1902 and when she could no longer take an active part she became the honorary president and remained so until her death.”

“She told the bishop that she often came to church when she was not very well, for the sake of example. She was interested in the work of raising an endowment for the Hawaiian pastorate and was always a regular contributor towards the support of the church, giving also generously to special objects.”

“In 1906 she laid the cornerstone of the Davies Memorial Hall and Parish House. Theophilus H Davies, in whose memory the building was erected by his children, had been a sincere friend of the Hawaiian people was present when Saint Andrew’s Priory had its closing exercises. The last time she did so was in 1915, since then she was seldom seen in public.”

“The Reverend Leopold Kroll, Priest-in-charge of the Hawaiian work, frequently called upon the Queen and enjoyed her confidence.”

“It was customary to address her as ‘Your Majesty’, and this was done by Americans as well as others. For some months the Queen had been failing but she became seriously ill only a few days before her death.”

“The bishop went with Mr. Kroll to Washington Place and next day, Friday, November ninth, he and Mr. Kroll held services at her bedside, Prince and Princess Kalanianaole and a few others being present.”

“She died on Sunday, November eleventh, at 8:30 am and the bishop was requested by the prince to officiate at the burial. A Church service was held on Monday night at Washington Place before the body was removed to Kawaiahao Church where Hawaiian monarchs since Kamehameha II have been laid in state.”

“Another service at which the cathedral Hawaiian choir sang was held before the body was removed to the throne room in the palace from which all the deceased members of the Kalakaua royal line had been buried.”

“Many of the old customs of the Hawaiians were observed while the body lay in state. Old Hawaiians chanted the deeds of her ancestors and the events of her life and many women and men in choruses sang wonderfully pathetic music every night until her burial. In charge of Hawaiians who knew ancient customs, arrangements were made for a dignified burial.”

“The ancient kahilis had been placed in order around the coffin from the time of her death, and they were carried in procession when she was moved until she reached her final resting place, as was also the tabu stick, beyond which, in ancient times, it meant death to go.”

“The bishop and Mr. Kroll took the service, the cathedral Hawaiian choir singing the musical portions. The throne room was the scene of strange magnificence and one which will never again be witnessed.”

“The procession which led to the royal mausoleum was simply wonderful; there were 2,000 United States troops, there were 1,500 women in Hawaiian societies …”

“… there were schools of Hawaiian children including Saint Andrew’s Priory, and then just preceding the catafalque the choir, the bishop and the clergy, the catafalque itself being drawn by 204 Hawaiian men dressed in white.”

“Arriving at the mausoleum the heavy koa casket was placed at its entrance and there the old Hawaiian retainers gave expression to their feelings by wailing in that pathetic and soul stirring use of the voice which is different from anything heard elsewhere.”

“At the close of the service the choir sang Peace Perfect Peace and the band played Aloha Oe, the Queen’s own composition, and then the bandsmen sang the words of the refrain. In the vault with her brother Kalakaua and others of the family, the last monarch of Hawaii was laid to rest.” (Restarick)

Follow Peter T Young on Facebook

Follow Peter T Young on Google+

Follow Peter T Young on LinkedIn

Follow Peter T Young on Blogger

Funeral_Procession_of_Liliuokalani_-_marching

Liliuokalani, Queen of Hawaii, full-length portrait, seated, outdoors, with dog, facing slightly left-LOC-3c05894v

Casket, visitors, and flowers in throne room, at funeral of Liliuokalani-LOC-3c05895v

Funerals – Queen Liliuokalani – PP-26-5-002

Funeral_Procession_of_Liliuokalani_-_Casket

Funeral_Procession_of_Liliuokalani_-_Leaving_Iolani_Palace

Funerals – Queen Liliuokalani – Procession, Nuuanu Avenue-PP-26-6-017

Funerals – Queen Liliuokalani – Procession, Nuuanu Avenue-PP-26-9-002

Funerals – Queen Liliuokalani – Procession, Nuuanu Avenue- PP-26-9-003

October 16, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

‘I must own to one great disappointment’

“I was destined to grow up away from the house of my parents. Immediately after my birth I was wrapped in the finest soft tapa cloth, and taken to the house of another chief, by whom I was adopted.”

“Konia, my foster-mother, was a granddaughter of Kamehameha I, and was married to Paki, also a high chief; their only daughter, Bernice Pauahi, afterwards Mrs. Charles R. Bishop, was therefore my foster-sister.”

“In speaking of our relationship, I have adopted the term customarily used in the English language, but there was no such modification recognized in my native land. I knew no other father or mother than my foster-parents, no other sister than Bernice.”

“I used to climb up on the knees of Paki, put my arms around his neck, kiss him, and he caressed me as a father would his child; while on the contrary, when I met my own parents, it was with perhaps more of interest, yet always with the demeanor I would have shown to any strangers who noticed me.” (Lili‘uokalani)

“My own father and mother had other children, ten in all, the most of them being adopted into other chiefs’ families; and although I knew that these were my own brothers and sisters, yet we met throughout my younger life as though we had not known our common parentage.”

“This was, and indeed is, in accordance with Hawaiian customs. It is not easy to explain its origin to those alien to our national life, but it seems perfectly natural to us.”

“As intelligible a reason as can be given is that this alliance by adoption cemented the ties of friendship between the chiefs. It spread to the common people, and it has doubtless fostered a community of interest and harmony.”

“The house she lived in, ‘Haleakala,’ “was completed in 1851, and occupied by Paki until 1855, when he died. … It was there that the years of my girlhood were passed, after school-days were over, and the pleasant company we often had in that house will never cease to give interest to the spot.”

It was “one of the most beautiful and central of the mansions in Honolulu. To it came all the high chiefs then living there, also the foreign residents; in fact, all the best society of the city.” (Lili‘uokalani)

“In the course of time Mr. and Mrs. Bishop were induced to take up their abode at ‘Haleakala,’ which, with other property, became hers as an inheritance from Paki.”

“This charming home, which immediately became the centre of all that was best, most cultivated, and refined in Hawaiian social life, has been graphically described by a cousin of Mr. Bishop, Mrs. Allen, who arrived in Honolulu in 1864 from California, on a visit.”

“It may be said that a warm and enduring friendship was formed at that time between the two, which continued unbroken during the lifetime of Mrs. Bishop. Of ‘Haleakala,’ as the house was called, and its picturesque life Mrs. Allen wrote:”

“‘At that time her home was the most beautiful in Honolulu, the house large and pleasant, the grounds full of beautiful trees, shrubs, and vines and so well cared-for. I shall never forget my first night’s rest in the home, and the satisfaction of waking in such pleasant surroundings.’”

“‘At that time there were at each end of the premises large yards with long low buildings on two sides, which were divided into rooms and occupied by numerous families attached to her as their chiefess to whom they looked for counsel in all their affairs—joys and sorrows.’”

“‘I was always interested to see her out under a large tamarind tree surrounded by her people, many of whom had come in from the country to advise with her. She would sit for hours with the utmost patience listening to them .’” (Allen; Krout)

Pauahi died October 16, 1884. “When the will of Mrs. Bernice Pauahi Bishop was read, in which she disposed of her own estate, I did not happen to be present …”

“… but her husband, Hon. Charles R. Bishop, informed me that I had been duly remembered, that his wife had bequeathed to me the lands of Kahala, island of Oahu, Lumahai on Kauai, Kealia in Kona, Hawaii …”

“… besides which he sent to me a pair of diamond wristlets, a diamond pin with crown which had once belonged to the Princess Ruth, and a necklace of pearls beautifully chased and set in tigers’ claws.”

“But nevertheless I must own to one great disappointment. The estate which had been so dear to us both in my childhood, the house built by my father, Paki, where I had lived as a girl …”

“… which was connected with many happy memories of my early life, from whence I had been married to Governor Dominis, when he took me to Washington Place, I could not help feeling ought to have been left to me.”

“The estate was called Haleakala, or House of the Sun, and the residence received the name of Aikupika; but both these are forgotten now in that of the Arlington Hotel.”

“This wish of my heart was not gratified, and, at the present day strangers stroll through the grounds or lounge on the piazzas of that home once so dear to me.”

“Yet memories of my adopted parents still cling to that homestead, and rise before me not only when I pass its walls, but I recall in a foreign land the days of my youth.” (Lili‘uokalani)

“The place was maintained as a chief’s residence for many years. It can only have been turned to other uses during the past fifteen years; at the outside. Mrs. Bernice Pauahi Bishop left the estate to her husband, who turned the property over to the Kamehameha estates.” (Bishop, Pacific Commercial Advertiser, September 6, 1900)

Follow Peter T Young on Facebook

Follow Peter T Young on Google+

Follow Peter T Young on LinkedIn

Follow Peter T Young on Blogger

Haleakala-Bishop_Property-on_King_Street-1855

July 8, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

John Dominis Aimoku

“John (Dominis) was, to use a euphemism, rather irregular as a husband – as many husbands in my experience are. He was fond of society, sometimes took more liquor than was good for him, and occasionally (although he never kept a regular mistress) had some love adventures.”

“In this small community they were reported to his wife, and I can vouch to how she suffered by it. She was exceedingly fond and jealous of him. But, like most unfaithful husbands, he would not have for one moment shut his eyes on even any sign of unfaithfulness on the part of his wife.”

“As long as he was alive, any one slandering his wife would have, I assure you, been severely punished.” (Trousseau, Blount Report)

“In November of 1882, Dr. Trousseau had the unpleasant duty of telling Lili‘uokalani that John Owen Dominis was about to have an illegitimate child born to a young half-Hawaiian woman”.

“This young woman was a retainer of Lili‘uokalani’s; a part of her ‘family’; she was also, however, officially married to a young Hawaiian by the name of John Lamiki Aimoku.” (Kelley)

“On January 9, 1883, a child was born in the household of Lili‘uokalani at Waikiki. The mother gave her child in Hawai’ian fashion in hānai to its maternal grandmother, Mary Purdy (Pahau), who was at the time 53 years old.”

“She claimed him as her own, (however) Princess Lili‘uokalani took over his support … (S)he followed the letter of law … that a child born out of wedlock took the legal surname of his mother, Aimoku. … Thus John Dominis Aimoku came into being.”

“In 1910, at the age of 27, young John told Lili‘uokalani that he was in love with Sybil McInerny, the daughter of a prominent Honolulu merchant, and wanted to marry her.”

“Upon hearing that news, Liliu‘okalani decided to officially adopt him and change his name to John Aimoku Dominis. She did so that May, 19 years after her husband’s death.” (Tsutsumi)

In Lili‘uokalani’s will, she left “For John Dominis Aimoku, the premises known as “Washington Place”, with the appurtenances, on Beretania Street, in Honolulu, for his lifetime …”

“… and on his death to the lawfully begotten heirs of his body during their lifetime (or so long after the death of said John Dominis Aimoku as the law will permit, with reversion then to the Trustees).” (Liliuokalani’s Will)

“John Aimoku Dominis, a ward of Queen Liliʻuokalani and one of the trustees of the Liliʻuokalani Trust, died on Saturday afternoon (July 8, 1917) after a long Illness and on Sunday the remains were cremated.”

“Following a long illness which developed into a condition which had been regarded hopeless for several days, Mr. Dominis died shortly before midnight on Saturday night at the McInerny residence at Kahala.”

“Mr. Dominis was 34 years of age. He was adopted by the queen … and for a Jong time was under the immediate care of Mrs Paakaiulaula Bush. He received his education In Iolani College.”

“For nearly five years Mr Dominis was a circuit court clerk, being assistant to Clerk Henry Smith in the main office. After leaving, this position he entered, the insurance business in which he continued until ill health necessitated his giving it up.” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, July 9, 1917)

Later, the Territorial Legislature noted, “those certain premises in the city of Honolulu known as Washington Place have for almost three-quarters of a century been associated and identified with the government of Hawaii”.

“Prince Jonah Kūhio Kalaniana‘ole has indicated his earnest desire that Washington Place should be acquired by the Territory of Hawaii as an executive mansion for its Governor, thus preserving to posterity the said Washington Place as a memorial to the late Queen Liliuokalani”.

“Prince Jonah Kūhio Kalaniana‘ole and the Trustees of the Liliuokalani Trust have agreed that the said Washington Place should be conveyed to the Territory of Hawaii for a price not to exceed twenty thousand dollars ($20,000.00), upon the condition that the Territory shall also, at the same time, acquire the life interest or right of occupancy of the heirs of John Dominis Aimoku”.

“The said premises known as Washington Place, when so acquired, shall be and are hereby set apart for use exclusively as an executive mansion for the governor of Hawai‘i.” (Act 229, approved April 39, 1919)

Follow Peter T Young on Facebook

Follow Peter T Young on Google+

Follow Peter T Young on LinkedIn

Follow Peter T Young on Blogger