Waialua

May 18, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

John Howard Midkiff Sr

John Howard Midkiff, son of James Jesse and Bertha (Wilson) Midkiff, was born January 16, 1893, in Stonington, Christian County, Illinois. His mother died when he was only 3-½ years old. His father was a Baptist preacher, who never made more than $62 a month and raised the 5 boys and 2 girls himself and sent every one through college.

In the summers between 7^th grade and high school, John worked on a farm in the corn belt on the mainland. They got up at 3:30 am to milk cows, feed pigs and harness horses; then worked in the fields from daylight to sunset; came back and fed the livestock again. (UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“I came out here [to Hawai‘i] during the Food Administration. I was at the First Officer’s Training School in the first World War. And I was taken out of there and sent over here. They had the Food Administration, really, it’s mostly food production. In case we should be shut off from the Mainland. On the island of Hawaii [in West Hawaii].” (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

Then, “John H Midkiff, former county food agent in West Hawaii, is now assistant professor of agriculture at the College of Hawaii [forerunner to University of Hawai‘i], devoting part of his time to instruction and lectures and hog raising, at a part of his time, also, to experimental and investigation work.” (HTH, May 21, 1919)

After that, “John H Midkiff now with Koloa Plantation, Kauai, was selected late yesterday afternoon by the trustees of Kamehameha Schools as principal of the Kamehameha School for Boys.”

“Midkiff is well known in the islands and his combination of thorough vocational training with experience in Hawaiian industries was a strong factor … in his selection for Kamehameha.” (SB, Aug 7, 1923)

John’s brother, Frank Elbert Midkiff, was president of Kamehameha Schools [1923 – 1934] and a trustee of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Estate [1939-1983]. (KSBE) “I was principal of the (Kamehameha) school [1923-1924] and I decided the school life simply wasn’t for me.”

“I just naturally preferred the agricultural work. Before that time, I had taught botany, genetics, agriculture at the University and I had been principal of the Kamehameha Boys’ School for one year. But my heart was always on the plantations.” (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“And then, Mr. Frank Atherton who was a head of Castle and Cook at that time knew that I had been offered a job as Division Supervisor at Pioneer on Maui.”

“And he said, ‘Well, why don’t you go out and try our plantations on this island?’ I went to Ewa first and told them very frankly that I was shooting for the assistant manager’s job. If there was a chance to work up to that, fine. Otherwise I didn’t want to go there. And he simply laughed at me. He said, ‘You better go someplace else.’”

“So, then, I went over to Waialua. Buck Thompson was the manager. I frankly told him the same thing. He said well, if I proved that I could handle it, someday I might get it. It took me eight years to get it”. (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“[A]ny plantation work I’ve ever seen in Hawaii is a picnic and always was, compared to the farm days back in Illinois. We had short seasons and we had to work every daylight hour.”

“We got up long before daylight, did all our chores around the farm, had breakfast, and then went to the fields. Took our lunch with us and stayed there till dark”. (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“[I]n the plantations of course, we had a number of different communities. They pretty well segregated according to their racial background. Japanese lived in certain village, Chinese in others, and the Portuguese’d live mostly in one place although they were scattered all over, too.”

“We had what was known as the haole camp. That was the supervisors mostly, too. They were a little better class of houses. Well, considerably better class of houses than the ordinary workmen had.”

“At the time I first went to Waialua, very few of the workers’ houses had any running water or toilets in them. … before I left, I saw that every one of them did have.” (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“One of the first regulations I sent out to the supervisors when I was appointed manager was that there was to be absolutely no abuse of any kind of any laborer. No verbal or other abuse. They certainly should never touch em.”

“And first, a good many of them’d said, ‘Well, how are you gonna run a gang, if you can’t cuss em out?’ I said, ‘Well, lead them.’ We had really good labor relations. We paid 10 cents an hour more than any plantation in Hawaii. And had the lowest labor cost in Hawaii. Cause we could get good men who were willing to work.”

“During the War, to encourage turnout, because the government wanted all the sugar it could get and we lost many of our men to the services, I gave a $25 bond every month to a person who had a perfect turnout or within one day of it. Well, no other plantation did that.”

“But then when they finally got union contract, that was frozen into my contract. Not the bond, but the 10 cents an hour extra. Which suited me fine because I could always get almost anybody I wanted.”

“We were not unionized until after every other plantation had been. Maybe I was wrong, but I thought I could have kept them out as long as I was manager if I wanted to.”

“But then I knew everybody’d be concentrating on us all the time, the whole ILWU would be. So finally I decided, oh heck, better let them get in so I can see what they’re doing and work things out.” (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“Under his management, Waialua was among the first plantations to introduce training programs, improved community facilities and a funded pension plan. He emphasized the importance of the work done by his employees and the contributions they made to the company’s success.”

“His work in the fields brought him close to the men in the sugar industry and helped him understand their problems. When the opportunity came, he used his position to help to make life better for his employees.”

“Few men hold as distinguished a place in Hawaii’s industrial and community life because few men possess John Midkiff’s understanding that good human relations are essential to any success.” (SB, Jan 5, 1951)

“My brother Frank and I started the Waialua Community Association. It was his idea. I got the plantation to donate land, the building and that was the start of that movement all over Hawaii. There are many of them now where you could get together. Everyone in the whole community, plantation or non-plantation, was invited and included in.”

“In fact, I always refused to take any office in it, or to be on any board of directors in it because I thought it or to be too overpowering for the plantation manager. If he said something when you’re furnishing the payroll for a big part of the community, people might be inclined to give it too much weight. So I never was.” (Midkiff, UH Ethnic Studies Oral History Project)

“The broad aim of this Waialua association is the desire to improve the social and economic life of the people of Waialua and the feeling that with cooperative effort … rural life can be made as attractive as urban life. … The district is agricultural, characteristic of the territory at large; it has adequate soils and water; and it has an industrious and ambitious population.”

“Through the cooperation of all Waialua people, the Waialua district may become a model for Hawaii and an example for other sections of the United States as well – in showing what a rural community can do in the way of social and economic betterment when it sets about to do it.” (SB, Feb 15, 1935)

“John was very concerned to keep competent employees on the plantation. So [he and his brother] organized the first rural community association in Hawai’i at Waialua and then the second one along the Windward O‘ahu Coast, (Ko‘olau Poko, Ko‘olau Loa).” (Robert Midkiff Oral History)

John H Midkiff Sr began working for the Waialua Agricultural Co. in 1924 as a supervisor. He was manager from 1932 to 1951 and retired because of bad health. He died on May 28, 1984 (at the age of 91).

April 29, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

During ancient times, various land divisions were used to divide and identify areas of control. Islands were divided into moku (districts;) moku were divided into ahupuaʻa. The Island of Oʻahu had six moku: Kona, Koʻolaupoko, Koʻolauloa, Waiʻanae, ʻEwa and Waialua.

The moku of Waialua is a large area of approximately 78-square miles and includes fourteen ahupuaʻa and stretches from Kaʻena Point to Kāpaeloa (just before Waimea.) With its extensive cultivated fields of kalo (taro,) it was considered the ‘poi bowl’ of the island. (Alameida)

Hiʻiaka, the sister of the goddess Pele, during her journey through the Koʻolau, coming from Kahuku, climbs a rocky bluff, listens to pounding surf and admires the beauty of Waialua … and chants (KSBE, Cultural Surveys:)

ʻO Waialua, kai leo nui:
Ua lono ka uka o Līhuʻe;
Ke wā la Wahiawā, e,
Kuli wale, kuli wale i ka leo;
He leo no ke kai, e.
O Waialua, laʻi eha, e!
Eha ka malino lalo o Wai-alua.

Waialua, place where the sea is loud
Heard in the uplands of Lihue,
The voice that reaches to Wahiawa
A voice that is deafening to the ears,
The voice of the ocean.
Waialua, filled with tranquility
That pass serenely over Waialua below.

The meaning of Waialua has several derivations; in one version Waialua is named after the aliʻi Waia. He was the son of Hāloa and Hinamauouluʻai and grandson of Wākea. Waia was not a very good chief and they were ashamed of his government (the word ‘lua’ means two.) Thus Waialua meant doubly disgrace as the name Waia has come to mean “disgraceful behavior.”

Other sources refer to ‘lua’ as referring to two rivers that flow into Kaiaka Bay (Anahulu and Helemano-Poamoho-Kaukonahua.) Gilbert Mathison a visitor in 1822 wrote in his journal that Waialua was named after the two rivers. (Kaukonahua is the longest river in the islands – it runs 33-miles from its source.) (Alameida)

When Captain Cook first spotted the Islands in January 1778, “The ship was first sighted from Waialua and Waiʻanae sailing for the north. It anchored at night at Waimea, Kauaʻi, that place being nearest at hand.” (Kamakau)

Later, after Cook’s death at Kealakekua, on Hawaiʻi Island, the remaining crew of the ship Resolution, with Clerke in command, sailed toward Oʻahu during the afternoon of Wednesday, February 24, 1779. On Saturday, the northeastern end of the island of Oʻahu came into view.

Sailing around Kahuku, the ship entered Waimea Bay (adjoining Waialua,) Clerke remarked, “I stood into a Bay to the (Westward) of this point the Eastern Shore of which was far the most beautifull Country we have yet seen among these Isles, here was a fine expanse of Low Land bounteously cloath’d with Verdure, on which were situate many large Villages and extensive plantations; at the Water side it terminated in a fine sloping, sand Beach.”

James King, later commander of the ship Discovery after August 1779, also wrote that this northernt end of Oʻahu “was by far the most beautiful country of any in the Group. … the Valleys look’d exceedingly pleasant … charmed with the narrow border full of villages, & the Moderate hills that rose behind them. ….” (Alameida)

In 1813, Waialua was described by John Whitman, an early visitor noted a similar description, “…a large district on the NE extremity of the island, embracing a large quantity of taro land, many excellent fishing grounds and several large fish ponds one of which deserves particular notice for its size and the labour bestowed in building the wall which encloses it.” (Cultural Surveys)

He described the fishpond (ʻUkoʻa) as “about one mile in length and extends from the southern part of a small bay to a point of land jutting out about one mile into the sea.” This certainly indicated that its size supported a large population. Whitman continued, “Walking over the wall we passed several gates of strong wicker work through which the water had free passage. Here we observed thousands of fish some of which were apparently three feet long.”

Later (1826,) Levi Chamberlain noted, “The whole district of Waialua is spread out before the eye with its cluster of settlements, straggling houses, scattering trees, cultivated plats & growing in broad perspectives the wide extending ocean tossing its restless waves and throwing in its white foaming billows fringing the shores all along the whole extent of the district.” (Cultural Surveys)

“The scenery on the other hand is no less beautiful and grand, the mountains are seen rising with various elevations, some piercing the clouds which envelope their summits, some covered with wood, others green with shrubs and grass, among the ridges are seen deep ravines, prominent fronts, inaccessible cliffs, weather beaten moss covered steeps.” (Chamberlain, 1826)

In addition, Waialua was a favorite place for leisure by the aliʻi of Oʻahu. Kaʻahumanu visited Waialua with Hiram Bingham during the time that the conversion to Christianity was the primary mission of the American missionaries. Kamehameha III visited a number of times and Liliʻuokalani had a summer home in Haleʻiwa (the present Liliʻuokalani Church was named for her.)

In 1832, missionary Ephraim Walter Clark reported to the Reverend Rufus Anderson, secretary of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM), that, “Waialua on the eastern part of the island is a populous region. A mission can be located at a central point in this vicinity, (and) by preaching at different places that are within 5 or 6 miles of each other & of easy access, (we) would probably have 3,000 or 4,000 bearers (followers.)”

The central plateau of the island falls primarily within the Waianae district, with the northern area of Oʻahu in Waialua district and the southern area in Ewa district.

A significant portion of the central plateau is under Army jurisdiction: Schofield Barracks (headquarters and training areas), Wheeler Army Airfield, Helemano Military Reservation, Kipapa and Waikakalaua Ammunition Storage sites and Kunia Field Station.

In ancient times, the central plateau, particularly the area called Līhuʻe on the southwestern part of the plateau, was a center of island political power. Even after the royal center had shifted to Waikīkī during the time of chief Maʻilikūkahi, this central area continued to play a role in chiefly activities, especially at Kūkaniloko (“to anchor the cry from within.”)

The Kūkaniloko Birthstones site (situated in Waialua) is one of the most significant cultural sites on O‘ahu. It was one of two places in Hawai‘i specifically designated for the birth of high-ranking children; the other site was Holoholokū at Wailua on Kauaʻi.

Beginning with the birth of Kapawa, Kūkaniloko became recognized as the royal birthsite on Oʻahu. A child born in the presence of the chiefs was called “he aliʻi” (a chief), “he akua” (a god), “he wela” (a blaze of heat.) The births of at least 4 renown chiefs of O‘ahu are recorded at Kūkaniloko – La‘a (ca. 1420,) Māʻilikūkahi (ca. 1520,) Kalanimanuia (ca. 1600) and Kākuhihewa (ca. 1640).

This place was so highly viewed that, even in later times, Kamehameha I, in 1797, previous to the birth of his son and successor, Liholiho (Kamehameha II,) made arrangements to have his birth take place at Kūkaniloko; but the illness of Queen Keōpūolani prevented that (Liholiho was born in Hilo.)

The image shows the moku of Waialua, indicating the different ahupuaʻa within the moku.

February 18, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Liliʻuokalani Protestant Church

The queen was fond of the congregation – which once numbered in the thousands, according to church records – and donated hymnals, cut-glass chandeliers and a seven-dial, universal-calendar clock. The church was renamed for Liliʻuokalani in 1975.

But we are getting ahead of ourselves, let’s step back.

Over the course of a little over 40-years (1820-1863) (the “Missionary Period”,) about 184-men and women in twelve Companies served in Hawaiʻi to carry out the mission of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM) in the Hawaiian Islands.

The Prudential Committee of the ABCFM gave the following instructions to these missionaries: “Your mission is a mission of mercy, and your work is to be wholly a labor of love. … Your views are not to be limited to a low, narrow scale, but you are to open your hearts wide, and set your marks high.”

“You are to aim at nothing short of covering these islands with fruitful fields, and pleasant dwellings and schools and churches, and of Christian civilization.” (The Friend) Reverend John S Emerson and his new bride Ursula Sophia Newell Emerson were part of the Fifth Company of missionaries.

Emerson was born December 28, 1800 in Chester, New Hampshire; he descended from a branch of the Emerson family emigrating from England and settling in Haverhill, Massachusetts, in 1652. Emerson left home at the age of 15 and started his studies preparing for college, and subsequently graduated from Dartmouth College, Hanover, New Hampshire, in 1826.

After graduating, like so many of the Alumni of American colleges, he became a teacher before entering upon his theological studies. These were pursued for three years at Andover, where he graduated in 1830. He anticipated becoming a missionary in India, but, yielded to a special call from the Sandwich Islands.

He married Ursula on October 25, 1831 in the old parsonage of Nelson, among the New Hampshire hills, where her father, Rev. Gad Newell, was the pastor from 1794 to 1859. They left for the Islands a month after their wedding (November 20, 1831) and spent almost six months on board ship – arriving in the Islands May 17, 1832.

“Very soon after his arrival the ‘general meeting’ of the Mission assigned Mr and Mrs Emerson, to the station of Waialua, on Oʻahu.” (The Friend, April 1867) Waialua stretched along the coast for 30-miles with a population of 8,000. They sailed from Honolulu on a small schooner to get there.

On July 24, 1832 they formed the Congregational Church at Waialua, Oahu’s second oldest Hawaiian church. The first facility (first of four) was a hale pili (thatched house,) dedicated on September 25, 1832 (it was situated at what is today the site of Haleʻiwa Joe’s on the corner of Kamehameha Highway and Haleʻiwa Road.)

“From the commencement of his labors at Waialua, he endeavored to interest his people in the diligent reading and study of the Bible. He had so arranged the reading of the Bible, that his people were accustomed to read the entire Bible through once in about three years.”

“In the daily morning prayer-meeting which has been kept up for many years, at the church, and which he usually attended, he would read and comment on the chapters for the day. We recollect, some months ago to have asked an old Hawaiian, belonging to the Waialua church, how many times he had read the Bible through. His reply was “eiwa” (nine!)” (The Friend, April 1867)

The government selected a spot for a second church to replace the first one. An adobe building, about 100-feet by about 50-feet was built around 1840-1841 on what is now the cemetery area of the present church property.

Emerson served the Church until 1842 when he took a position as professor at the Lahainaluna Seminary on Maui, and also served as pastor of the Church at Kāʻanapali. He published five volumes of elementary works, three of them in the Hawaiian language, and, while at Lahainaluna, was joint author, with Rev. Artemas Bishop, of an “English Hawaiian Dictionary,” based on Webster’s abridgment (Lahainaluna, 1845.) He later returned to Waialua and served the congregation until 1846.

Service to the people was equally shared by Ursula. “We are also much impressed by the well-drawn character of Ursula Newell Emerson, whose lovable personality, together with her bountiful, untiring hospitality, is a treasured memory in Hawaiʻi. She nobly rounded out the work of her husband”. (The Friend, October 1928)

A third church was built of wood in 1890 on the present location and it was this building that Queen Liliʻuokalani worshipped in when she stayed at her beach home along the banks of the Anahulu River.

“Our famous clock was donated to the church by Queen Liliʻuokalani on January 1, 1892. The clock is 32 inches in diameter, with seven functions and hands, one (of) which made one revolution every 16 years!”

“The uniqueness of this one-of-a-kind clock, is that the numerals on the clock dial telling the time were replaced with the letters of L-I-L-I-U-O-K-A-L-A-N-I, the queen’s name.” (Church Moderator Kuulei Kaio, Star-Bulletin)

The present church building was built after the wooden one was declared unsafe. In 1960, the fourth (and present) church made of cement was started. This new building was dedicated on June 11, 1961. (Later renovations were completed in 1985.)

Theodore Alameda Vierra was the architect for the present church. He was born on the Big Island in 1902 to an Azorean born Portuguese father and Hawaiian-Scottish mother. He graduated from Kamehameha Schools as president of his class in 1919, graduated from college in San Francisco and later won a scholarship to Harvard University School of Architecture. Vierra was the first native Hawaiian to be admitted to the American Institute of Architecture. (HHF)

The weather vane at the top of the church steeple is in the form of an ʻIwa bird (frigate) in full flight with a fish in its mouth. Haleʻiwa was the name of the seminary that the Emersons established in the area and the village was eventually named Haleʻiwa (house of the ʻIwa bird.)

ʻIwa is also the name of a slender leafed fern and there are 2 of these leaves at base of the vane. The religious connotation is brought together with the fish in its mouth. “Follow me and I will make you fishers of men. The Kingdom of Heaven is like a net that was cast into the sea gathered many kinds.” (Lots of information here from the Church website.)

January 14, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Early Waialua Sugar Operations

The first mission schools were not established as industrial or manual training institutions, but in the 1830s the American Protestant Missionaries perceived the importance of agriculture and industry in raising the living standard of the nation.

In their general meeting held at Lahaina in 1833 they proposed a manual labor system, as a means both of desirable improvement and self-support, to be instituted at the high school. The secular agent was instructed to engage an artisan to oversee the work, take charge of the stock, tools, etc.

Between 1830 and 1850, the demands of the ali‘i on the maka‘āinana (common people) were severe. The missionary, John Emerson, commenting on the burdensome taxes on the people, wrote that the ruling chiefs “get hungry often and send a vessel to Waialua for food quite as often as it is welcomed by the people”. (Cultural Surveys)

The chiefs also demanded food be brought to them: “Last Sat some 2 or 300 men went from this place to H[onolulu] to carry food for the chiefs and this [is] often done … Each man carried enough food to maintain 4 persons one week … 70 miles travel to get it to H[onolulu]”. (Cultural Surveys)

John Emerson began growing sugarcane on his land in Waialua as early as 1836. He “made his own molasses, grinding a few bundles of cane in a little wooden mill turned by oxen, and boiling down the juice in an old whaler’s trypot”. (Sereno Bishop)

As we’ll see, here, this early sugarcane plantation later passed through several hands, including the Levi and Warren Chamberlain Sugar Company, established 1865, Halstead & Gordon, and the Halstead Brothers. (Cultural Surveys) This eventually became Waialua Sugar.

In a general letter to the Board, dated June 8, 1839, the members of the Sandwich Islands Mission observed that “at many stations the state of things is becoming such, that the missionary, by directing the labor of natives …”

“… and investing some fifty or a hundred dollars in a sugar-mill, or in some other way, might secure a portion and often the whole of his support, and would thus be teaching the people profitable industry.” (Tate)

Two years later the mission recommended that a farmer be procured to teach agriculture and to conduct the secular concerns of the school and that the scholars be required to cultivate the land or earn their own food by their personal industry.

One area for such a school was Waialua. “The whole district of Waialua is spread out before the eye with its cluster of settlements, straggling houses, scattering trees, cultivated plats & growing in broad perspectives the wide extending ocean tossing its restless waves and throwing in its white foaming billows fringing the shores all along the whole extent of the district.” (Levi Chamberlain, Cultural Surveys)

A school designed to be self-supporting and agricultural was organized at Waialua, on Oahu, opened August 28, 1837, with one hundred children and six teachers.

Two hours each working day were devoted to instruction in natural history, geography and arithmetic, while four hours were set aside for supervised labor in the field. By 1842 the institution was entirely self-sufficient. Two years later, the death of Mr Locke caused the manual labor school to be discontinued. (Tate)

The Hawaiian leadership saw opportunities. King Kamehameha III sought to expand sugar cultivation and production, as well as expand other agricultural ventures to support commercial agriculture in the Islands. In a speech to the Legislature in 1847, the King notes:

“I recommend to your most serious consideration, to devise means to promote the agriculture of the islands, and profitable industry among all classes of their inhabitants. It is my wish that my subjects should possess lands upon a secure title; enabling them to live in abundance and comfort, and to bring up their children free from the vices that prevail in the seaports.”

“What my native subjects are greatly in want of, to become farmers, is capital with which to buy cattle, fence in the land and cultivate it properly. “

“I recommend you to consider the best means of inducing foreigners to furnish capital for carrying on agricultural operations, that thus the exports of the country may be increased …” (King Kamehameha III Speech to the Legislature, April 28, 1847; Archives)

Later, Warren & Levi Jr, Chamberlain began a Waialua sugar mill operation in 1864. They supplied sugar for the Northern States during the Civil War. (The South had cut off all sugar production in the states to the North forcing them to import it from the islands.)

The prosperity ended with the end of the Civil War and the Chamberlains surrendered the mill to the bank in 1870. Robert Halstead bought the Chamberlain plantation in 1874 for a reported $25,000 under the partnership of Halstead & Gordon.

Robert Halstead was a pioneer sugar planter of Hawaii and was one of the first men with the vision to realize the future importance of cane culture in the financial development of the islands.

Halstead was born in Todmorden, England, on August 10, 1836. Halstead married Sarah Ellen Stansfield (born in May 1840 at Todmorden, England) on January 2, 1858 in Lancashire England.

Mr. Halstead brought his family to Hawaii in 1865, and for many years was a factor in the building of an industrial era responsible for the prosperous and highly developed Hawaii.

Going first to Lahaina, Maui, Mr. Halstead spent seven years there as plantation manager for Campbell and Turton, a partnership formed by James Campbell, one of the prominent figures in the early history of the sugar industry.

Severing his connections with business interests in Hawaii early in 1873, Mr. Halstead moved to the Pacific Coast, but returned in 1874 to engage in a plantation venture at Waialua, forming the partnership of Halstead & Gordon. (Nellist)

Upon the death of his associate, Mr. Halstead took over the entire business in 1888 and it was continued as Halstead & Sons, Edgar (born on March 1, 1862 at Manchester, Lancashire, England) and Frank (born on April 13, 1864 at Manchester, Lancashire, England) joining their father. Robert was the proprietor and manager; Edgar was superintendent and Frank was sugar house manager. (Polk 1890)

Halstead retired from the firm, and it was carried on by his sons under the name of Halstead Brothers. Later, Benjamin Franklin (Frank) Dillingham believed that the Halstead Brothers’ land could be turned into a profitable sugar plantation, especially since there was now a rail line to Honolulu.

The Waialua Agricultural Company was established in 1898 by JB Atherton, ED Tenney, BF Dillingham, WA Bowen, H Waterhouse and MR Robinson and was incorporated by the company Castle & Cooke. They bought the Halstead Brothers’ land and mill, and began to buy or lease the adjacent lands. (Cultural Surveys)

“Waialua is reached either by railroad, a distance from Honolulu of 58 miles, or wagon road, 28 miles. The plantation lands extend along the seacoast 15 miles and 10 miles back toward the mountains. The plantation has a good railway system.”

“There are nearly 600 cane cars and five locomotives: with 30 miles of permanent track and eight of portable track. One stretch of road is nine miles long.”

“The brick smokestack of the old original mill still stands as a relic of the past. The present day plant is a 12-roller mill of late type. … The mill has a capacity of 150 tons of sugar per day. The mill has been so constructed that its capacity can be doubled without adding to the building itself.” (Louisiana Planter, May 7, 1910)

Waialua Sugar reported in early 1987 that it would shut down over a two year period. An effort to buy the plantation through an employee stock ownership plan fell through in July 1987.

However, on September 24, 1987 Castle & Cooke announced that Waialua would be operating for at least two more years unless world sugar prices fell drastically. (LRB) (The Waialua mill stayed in operation up until 1996.)

November 1, 2022 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kai‘ahulu

In the legend of Pele and Hi’iaka, Hi’iaka, the sister of the volcano goddess Pele, travels around the islands. In one instance, Hi‘iaka’s canoe is beached on the sands of Mokulē‘ia Hi‘iaka leaves her companions to pay her respects to her ancestor, Pohaku-o-Kauai, and to her ancestral divinity Ka‘ena.

She passes Ka‘ena Point on O‘ahu, and enters the hot and arid region of Waialua. As she climbs up into the Wai‘anae Mountains above the lands of Keālia and Kawaihāpai, she offers the following chant:

Kunihi Kaena, holo i ka malie:
Wela i ka La ke alo o ka pali;
Auamo mai i ka La o Kilauea;
Ikiiki i ka La na Ke-awa-ula,
Ola i ka makani Kai-a-ulu Kohola-leleHe
makani ia no lalo

Ka’ena’s profile fleets through the calm,
With flanks ablaze in the sunlight –
A furnace heat like Kilauea;
Ke-awa-ula shelters in heat;
Kohala-lele revives in the breeze,
That breath from the sea, Kai-a-ulu.

Recorded accounts of early foreign explorers gives an indication of what pre-contact Hawai‘i was like. After the death of Captain James Cook on the Island of Hawai‘i, the crew of the Resolution sailed to O‘ahu. Captain Charles Clerke, after anchoring in Waimea Bay, describes the highly populated and lush northwest coast of O‘ahu:

“I stood into a Bay just to the Wtward [Westward] of this point the Eastern Shore of which was by far the most beautifull Country we have yet seen among these Isles, here was a fine expanse of Low Land bounteously cloath’d with Verdure, on which were situate many large Villages and extensive plantations;”

“… at the Water side it terminated in a fine sloping, sand Beach . . . This Bay, its Geographical situation consider’d is by no means a bad Roadsted, being sheltered from the NEbN [Northeast by North] SEterly [Southeasterly] to SWbW [Southwest by West] with a good depth of Water and a fine firm sandy Bottom; it lays on the NW [Northwest] side of this Island of Wouahoo [O‘ahu] … surrounded by a fine pleasant fertile Country.”

In 1813 , Waialua was described by John Whitman, an early missionary visitor, as: … a large district on the N.E. extremity of the island, embracing a large quantity of taro land, many excellent fishing grounds and several large fish ponds one of which deserves particular notice for its size and the labour bestowed in building the wall which encloses it.”

Another missionary, Levi Chamberlain, described the vicinity of Kawaihāpai in 1826: “At 11 o’ck we set out and walked along a path leading over an extended plain covered with high grass. “

“After walking about 3 miles we took a path leading over a marshy tract to the mountains which we were designing to cross in order that we might avoid a bad piece of traveling along the western shore. The mountains here run in nearly a N.W. and N.E. direction being somewhat circular.”

“We ascended by a rough & difficult path, shrubs, long grass, wild plants and bushes sprung up grew luxuriantly among the rocks being plentifully moistened by little streams which trickled down the steep sides of the mountains.”

“After ascending several hundred feet, we came to a beautiful little run of water conducted by sprouts furnishing sufficient moisture for a number of taro patches below.”

“I was told that the water never failed and the district into which it passes is called Kawaihapai (Water lifted Up) on account of the water’s being conducted from such an elevation.”

“The prospect from the acclivity is very fine. The whole district of Waialua is spread out before the eye with its cluster of settlements, straggling houses, scattering trees, cultivated plats & growing in broad perspectives the wide extending ocean tossing its restless waves and throwing in its white foaming billows fringing the shores all along the whole extent of the district.” (Cultural Surveys)

As early as the 1840s, cattle were known to have grazed on the lowlands of Waialua. In 1897, B.F. Dillingham purchased the Kawailoa Ranch in Mokulē‘ia. The ranch included over 2,000 head of cattle and over a hundred horses and mules on 10,000-acres of land.

Dillingham also leased additional property in Mokulē‘ia, including the Gaspar Silva Ranch, the James Gay Estate, and other lands in the area that he could secure.

Dillingham’s plan was to later sublease or sell the land at a profit, as the lands had potential for being developed into large-scale sugar plantations. He anticipated the land would become valuable once extensive irrigation systems were in place, and when the O’ ahu Railway and Land Co. (O.R. & L.) railroad was constructed around Ka‘ena Point and along the north shore to Kahuku.

By 1898, the O.R. & L railroad was constructed through the Waialua District, with stations in both Kawaihāpai and Mokulē’ia. Soon thereafter, Dillingham began selling off or subleasing much of his lands in western Waialua.

Also in 1898, the Halstead Brothers had a small sugar cane plantation and mill at Waialua town. Dillingham believed that the Halstead Brothers’ land could be turned into a profitable sugar plantation, especially since there was now a rail line to Honolulu.

The Waialua Agricultural Company was established in 1898 by JB Atherton, ED Tenney, BF Dillingham, WA Bowen, H Waterhouse and MR Robinson, and was incorporated by the company Castle & Cooke.

They bought the Halstead Brothers’ land and mill, and began to buy or lease the adjacent lands. By the early 1900s, sugarcane plantations and large ranches came to dominate the lands of western Waialua.

The Makaleha Stream empties into a large bay called Kai‘ahulu (“the foamy sea”) located makai of the Mokulē‘ia Polo Field. Kapala‘au Stream (“the wooden fence”) is also known to flow into Kai‘ahulu Bay.

Tenney bought some land on the water, here, and built a house. In a letter to Castle & Cooke VP FC Atherton, Tenney wrote, “My beach place at Mokuleia, Waialua, commonly known aa Kaiahulu was the source of much pleasure to Mrs. Tenney, she took particular delight on entertaining her friends there.”

“With her passing, I would like to deed this place to Castle & Cooke, Ltd for its employees, to be used by them primarily as a place where they can spend week-ends and periods during their vacation. This, I feel, would insure the continued use of the property as a means of providing recreation and pleasure to others.”

Today, near the sandy point that forms the eastern boundary of Kai‘ahulu Bay is a recreational area for the business firm of Castle and Cooke. The land was bequeathed to the company by Edward Tenney, an employee for many years, and was set aside for the use of Castle and Cooke personnel. (John Clark)