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July 10, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Big Dipper

Nāhiku (the seven) is the asterism (pattern of stars) consisting of seven bright stars found in the constellation Ursa Major, the Great Bear. It is prominent in the northern sky in the summer, and is one of the first star patterns we learn to identify.

The Big and Little Dippers swing around the north star Polaris (the North Star) like riders on a Ferris wheel. They go full circle around Polaris once a day – or once every 23 hours and 56 minutes.

Wait … this isn’t about ‘that’ Big Dipper’ …

This is about the “two trains, 3,500 feet of track, two tunnels” of Big Dipper in the Aloha Park (aka Waikiki Park). (Honolulu Star Bulletin, September 14, 1922)

“Honolulu takes another step toward the metropolitan class with the opening tonight of the Aloha Amusement Park. … The park corporation has made good on its promise that Aloha Park would be outwardly attractive.” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, September 14, 1922)

“On the top of the 75-foot high incline the opening ceremony was held and at the close Mrs Cory boarded the front car of the train and with a dainty bet well directed swing brought the bottle of near wine, it must have been down, crashing it against the iron guard rail of the car and at the same time wishing bon voyage to the train and all who may ever ride the big dipper.”

“Mark Hanna, under whose personal direction and supervision the Big Dipper was built, was the recipient of many congratulations.”

“Director General Cory was the first one to congratulate him, which he did with generous abundance of praise, and vouched his appreciation many time for the excellent workmanship and detailed construction of the Dipper.” (Honolulu Advertiser, September 3, 1922)

“The dipper was designed by a California company which owns and operates three of the largest attractions of the kind in the world.”

“This Big Dipper is my special pet. It is an improvement over anything that has yet been built and there are only three as large on the mainland, at Venice, Idora Park, Oakland, and on the beach at San Francisco.”

“This one is better than any others. The first drop is 10-percent steeper, the cars run faster and the safety devices are more carefully worked out. There are no straightaways, thus making the ride faster, and more of a thriller.”

“The cars are specially designed and were made in San Francisco particularly for Aloha Park. They are two-passenger carriers and there are none cars to a train. Two wheels on each car instead of four, permits the trains to take sharper curves at greater angles.”

“At first the public seemed skeptical about the proposition. They seemed to fear that the park would not be the type that the city would want. … The buildings are put up to stay as anyone can see if they take the trouble to look. (Cory; Honolulu Star Bulletin, September 14, 1922)

Apparently, however, the Big Dipper and Aloha Park were not supported by the community. In less than ten-years, the Bank of Hawaii …

… “has owned the Waikiki park on Kalakaua Avenue, formerly Aloha Park, and the roller coaster, declared unsafe and unfit for further operation, has become something of a white elephant.”

“Officials of the bank say they want to realize as much as they can on the coaster, and wile thee has been a prospective buyer here and another there, the bank has refused to sell to anyone planning to operate the contrivance, and will only consider on a proposition from the standpoint of wood and metal.” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, December 1, 1930)

Aloha Park was adjacent to Fort DeRussy, an American army base and was opened by the Aloha Amusement Company, a group of local investors.

While Honolulu only had a permanent population of 90,000, it also had a transient population of 30,000 soldiers, sailors and tourists. And its mild climate was perfect for year around operation. The park’s entrance was designed after the Palace of Fine Arts arcade at the 1915 San Francisco Exposition.

The park’s rides included the Big Dipper roller coaster designed by Prior and Church of Venice, California, a Noah’s Ark fun house, a 70 foot high Traver Seaplane, a ten-car Dodgem, a carousel built by Arthur Looff, and a miniature railroad.

The dance hall had a floor 120 x 150 feet, with a 20 foot lanai, where refreshments were served, and contained boxes for private parties. Music was provided by the Hawaiian brass band, that played at the band pavilion where a big musical revue was staged nightly.

The Aloha Amusement Park, Ltd was “a locally financed. Locally-built and locally-managed concern.” Running into financial difficulties, the Aloha Park went into bankruptcy in 1924.

Then, “Court Lunalilo No 66000, Ancient Order of Foresters, on Thursday of this week closed a deal with the Bank of Hawaii whereby the lodge purchased for $15,000, a six-year lease on the Waikiki Park”.

“The dance pavilion at the park is being transformed into a meeting hall … The big dipper, the merry-go-round and the dance pavilion were included in the lease.”

“The Foresters intend to hold periodical carnivals at the park in addition to renting the grounds out for private use and to other organizations for dances, should, fairs and carnivals for the next six years.” (Honolulu Advertiser, April 3, 1926)

Eventually, as noted by the bank, the “ungainly ‘White Elephant’ is valuable only for metal, wood”. (Honolulu Star Bulletin, December 1, 1930)

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Big Dipper-Hnl SB, Sept 14, 1922-page 2
Big Dipper-Hnl SB, Sept 14, 1922-page 2
Big Dipper-Hnl SB, Sept 14, 1922-page 20
Big Dipper-Hnl SB, Sept 14, 1922-page 20
Big Dipper-Hnl SB, Oct 14, 1922
Big Dipper-Hnl SB, Oct 14, 1922
Aloha Park-Hnl Adv, August 20, 1922
Aloha Park-Hnl Adv, August 20, 1922
Big Dipper-Hnl Adv, Sept 3, 1922-page 11
Big Dipper-Hnl Adv, Sept 3, 1922-page 11
Waikiki Amusement Park-Ilikai
Waikiki Amusement Park-Ilikai
Aloha Park-Hnl SB-Sept 14, 1922
Aloha Park-Hnl SB-Sept 14, 1922
Aloha Amusement Park-Hnl SB-Sept 14, 1922
Aloha Amusement Park-Hnl SB-Sept 14, 1922
1925 Entrance to the Waikiki Amusement Park-Ilikai
1925 Entrance to the Waikiki Amusement Park-Ilikai
Honolulu and Vicinity-Map-1934-(portion-noting-Waikiki_Park)
Honolulu and Vicinity-Map-1934-(portion-noting-Waikiki_Park)
Honolulu and Vicinity-Map-1934-(portion-noting-Waikiki_Park)-Waikiki_Park-Honolulu-Map-1927
Honolulu and Vicinity-Map-1934-(portion-noting-Waikiki_Park)-Waikiki_Park-Honolulu-Map-1927

Filed Under: Economy, General Tagged With: Aloha Park, Waikiki Park, Big Dipper, Hawaii, Waikiki, Oahu

July 3, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Nu‘uanu – 1842

“On the morning of the 3d of March, 1841, (Sir George Simpson) started from Euston Square, by railway, for Liverpool, at a quarter past nine o’clock.” He embarked on a ‘Journey Round the World,’ including a stop in the Hawaiian Islands.

“As we edged away towards the south, the heat became more oppressive from day to day. The skies were usually a little overcast, coming down upon us now and then, with a flying shower; so that, even when our breeze was at its freshest, the air felt close and sultry. …”

“On the evening of the ninth of February (1842), we felt tolerably certain that the next day’s sun would find us within the visual range of Hawai‘i, though, as nothing but the clearest atmosphere could serve our purpose, we were rather likely than otherwise to be prevented from actually seeing it. In the morning, however, this last anticipation was agreeably disappointed. …”

“I accompanied my friend Mr. Pelly to his rural retreat in the valley of Nuanau. The change of temperature within a distance of four miles of gentle ascent was very remarkable, so that, at our journey’s end, we found a change from light grass clothing to warm pea-jackets highly acceptable.”

“Mr. Pelly’s residence was a snug little cottage, surrounded by a great variety of tropical plants, particularly by beds of pine-apples and miniature plantations of coffee.”

“In fact, the gardens of the residents generally contain rich displays of almost every flower and shrub under the sun, orange, lemon, citron, lime, pomegranate, fig, olive, gooseberry, strawberry, squash, melon, grape, guava, tomata, batata or love apple, yams, sweet potatoes, with many other fruits and all sorts of esculent vegetables.”

“To notice one or two of the rarer specimens, a very large variety of melon produces a most gorgeous flower, far more beautiful and elaborate than even the passiflora in Europe, and the papia causes so rapid a decomposition in meats …”

“… that the toughest beef or the most venerable of old cocks, if steeped in an infusion of the fruit or the stem of the plant, becomes, in a few hours, perfectly tender.”

“In addition to all that I have just enumerated, may be mentioned, the prickly pear, the oriental lilac, the date palm, the camphor tree, in short nearly all the plants of all the groups of Polynesia …”

“… and, in order, if possible, to extend the catalogue, Mr. Hopkins left in the hands of one of the most persevering horticulturists some seeds of the cherry and apple, which he had brought from England.”

“At the head of the valley, distant but a few miles from the house, a pali of 1,100 feet in height overhangs the windward side of the island. I had intended to ride to this precipice in the course of the afternoon, but was prevented by the heavy rain …”

“… our time, however, was spent very agreeably in receiving visits from many of the neighboring natives. Next morning, though the rain continued to fall as heavily as ever, and the clouds and mist were driving down the gorge before the trade-wind, I was trotting away at dawn in the very teeth of the storm.”

“The scenery of Nuanau is strikingly picturesque and romantic.”

“On looking downwards, the placid ocean breaking on the coral reefs that gird the island, the white houses of the town glancing in the sun, the ships lying at anchor in the harbor, while canoes and boats are flitting …”

“… as if in play, among them, form together a view which, in addition to its physical beauty, overwhelms one who looks back to the past, with a flood of moral associations.”

“In the opposite direction you discover a rugged glen, with blackened and broken mountains on either side, which are partially covered with low trees, while from crag to crag there leaps and bubbles many a stream, as if glad and eager to drop its fatness through its dependent aqueducts, on the parched plain below.”

“Nor is the view in this direction destitute, any more than the view in the other, of historical interest.”

“It was up this very pass that Kamehameha, after gaining … his last and greatest battle, chased with ‘his red pursuing spear’ the forces of Woahoo, and his own recreant followers who had joined them …”

“… till he drove them headlong, to the number of three hundred, ‘death in their front, destruction in their rear,’ down the almost perpendicular wall that terminates the valley.”

“On arriving at the pali, I saw, as it were, at my feet a champagne country, prettily dotted with villages, groves and plantations, while in the distance there lay, screened, however, by a curtain of vapors, the same ocean which I had so lately left behind me.”

“Though the wind, as it entered the gorge, blew in such gusts as almost prevented me from standing, yet I resolved to attempt the descent, which was known to be practicable for those who had not Kamehameha to hurry them.”

“I accordingly scrambled down, having, of course, dismounted, for some distance; but as the path was slippery from the wet, I was fain to retrace my steps before reaching the bottom.”

“In all weathers, however, the natives, when they are coming to market with pigs, vegetables, &c., are in the habit of safely ascending and descending the precipice with their loads.”

“While I was drenched on this excursion, the good folks of Honolulu were as dry and dusty as usual, the showers having merely peeped out of the valley to tantalize them.” (Simpson)

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Nuuanu_Valley_(WC)_1840
Nuuanu_Valley_(WC)_1840

Filed Under: General, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, Oahu, Nuuanu, George Simpson

June 24, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Honolulu in the 1830s

“The plain of Honoruru exhibits, in a singular manner, the extent and effects of volcanic agency. It is not less than nine or ten miles in length; and, in some parts, two miles from the sea to the foot of the mountains.”

“The whole plain is covered with a rich alluvial soil, frequently two or three feet deep; beneath this, a layer of fine volcanic ashes and cinders extends to the depth of fourteen or sixteen feet …”

“… these ashes lie upon a stratum of solid rock, not volcanic, but calcareous, and apparently a kind of sediment deposited by the sea, in which branches of white coral, bones of fish and animals, and several varieties of shells are found.”

“The base of the mountains which bound the plain of the interior, appears to have formed the original line of coast on this side of the island; but probably, in some very remote period, an eruption took place from two broad-based, truncated mountains, called by foreigners, Diamond Hill and Punchbowl Hill, evidently extinguished craters …”

“… when the ashes and cinders thrown out, and wafted by the trade winds in a westerly direction, filled up the sea, and formed the present extensive plain; the soil of its surface having been subsequently produced either by the decomposition of lava, or by the mould and decayed vegetable matter washed down from the mountains during the rainy season of the year.”

“Across this plain, immediately opposite the harbour of Honoruru, lies the valley of Anuanu, leading to a pass in the mountains, called by the natives Ka Pari, ‘the precipice.’”

“The mouth of the valley, which opens immediately behind the town of Honorary is a complete garden, care fully kept, by its respective proprietors, in a state of high cultivation, and remarkably productive.”

“The valley rises with a gradual ascent from the shore to the precipice, which is seven or eight miles from the town. After journeying through varied scenery, all exceedingly rich and beautiful, for about this distance, the valley becomes gradually narrower, and the mountains rise more steep on either side.”

“The scenery is romantic and delightful: the bottom of the valley is gently undulated; a rapid stream takes its serpentine way from one side of the valley to the other, sometimes meandering along with an unruffled surface, and at other times rushing down a fall of several feet, or dashing and foaming among rocks which interrupt its progress.”

“The sides of the hills are clothed with verdure; even the rocks that project from amongst the bushes are ornamented with pendulous or creeping plants of various kinds; and, in several places, beautiful cascades roll their silvery streams clown the steep mountain’s side into flowing rivulets beneath.”

“The beauty of the scenery around increases, until, at length, after walking some time oh a rising ground, more steep than usual, and through a thicket of hills, the traveller suddenly emerges into an. open space, and, turning round a small pile of volcanic rocks, the Pari all at once bursts upon him with an almost overwhelming effect.”

“Immense masses of black and ferruginous rock, many hundred feet in nearly perpendicular heights, are piled up on both sides; while, immediately before him, he looks down the fearful steep several hundred feet, and be holds hills and valleys, trees and cottages, streams and paths, cultivated plantations and untrodden thickets …”

“… in short, a varied landscape, many miles in extent, bounded by lofty mountains on the one side, and the white-crested waves of the ocean on the other.”

“From this lower level the ascent is at first gradual and easy, but, as the highest edge is approached, be comes more formidable, especially in two places, where the volcanic rocks appear to rise perpendicularly, and present an even and apparently projecting front, which it seems impossible to surmount.”

“The elevation of the upper ridge, over which the path leads, is from four to five hundred feet above the land below. Still the natives not only pass and repass without much difficulty, but often carry heavy burdens from one side to the other.”

“Within a few yards of the upper edge of the pass, under the shade of surrounding bushes and trees, two rude and shapeless stone idols were formerly fixed, one on each side of the path, which the natives called Akua no ka Pari, ‘gods of the precipice.’ …”

“Immediately south of the valley of Anuanu, are situated the town and harbour of Honoruru. The harbour is the best, and indeed the only secure one at all seasons, in the Sandwich Islands, and is more frequented by foreign vessels than any other; seldom having less than three or four, and sometimes upwards of thirty lying within it at the same time.”

“The town has, also, since the number of shipping has increased, become populous. It is one of the largest in the islands, usually containing six or seven thou sand inhabitants.”

“It is the frequent residence of the king and principal chiefs, who are much engaged in traffic with foreigners visiting the islands, or residing on shore for purposes of trade.”

“There are twelve or fourteen merchants, principally Americans, who have established ware houses on shore for foreign goods, principally piece goods, hardware, crockery, hats and shoes, naval stores, etc. which they retail to the natives for Spanish dollars, or sandal wood.”

“On the eastern side of the basin is a strong fort, one hundred yards square, mounting sixty guns. It was begun by some Russians, who were, however, expelled, and the fort finished by the natives, from an apprehension that these foreigners were in connexion with the Russian settlements on the north west coast of America, and were about to take possession of the island.”

“About six miles to the west of Honoruru, and nearly as far from the village of Eva, on the Pearl River, there is a singular natural curiosity – small circular lake, situated at a short distance from the seashore, so impregnated with salt, that twice in the year the natives take out between two and three hundred barrels of fine, clear, hard, crystalized salt.”

“This lake is not only an interesting natural curiosity, but an important appendage to the island. It belongs to the king, and is not only useful in curing large quantities of fish, but furnishes a valuable article of commerce. The population of Oahu is estimated at about twenty thousand.” (All from Mission Records, 1839)

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'Honolulu_1836'_by_Joseph_Dwight_Strong
‘Honolulu_1836’_by_Joseph_Dwight_Strong
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
“Honolulu Salt Pan, near Kaka‘ako” drawn by a Auguste Borget-(Hammatt)-1838
“Honolulu Salt Pan, near Kaka‘ako” drawn by a Auguste Borget-(Hammatt)-1838
Mission_Houses,_Honolulu,_ca._1837._Drawn_by_Wheeler_and_engraved_by-Kalama
Mission_Houses,_Honolulu,_ca._1837._Drawn_by_Wheeler_and_engraved_by-Kalama
Auguste_Borget_-_'Honolulu_Waterfront',_graphite_on_paper,_1838
Auguste_Borget_-_’Honolulu_Waterfront’,_graphite_on_paper,_1838
Honolulu_Harbor-(TheFriend)-1836
Honolulu_Harbor-(TheFriend)-1836
Niuhelewai-Fish_Ponds_at_Honoruru,_Oahu,_by_John_Murray,_after_Robert_Dampier-(WC)-1836-400
Niuhelewai-Fish_Ponds_at_Honoruru,_Oahu,_by_John_Murray,_after_Robert_Dampier-(WC)-1836-400
Anonymous illustrator entitled 'Town of Honolulu- Island of Woahoo-Sandwich Islands'-(Hammatt)-1834
Anonymous illustrator entitled ‘Town of Honolulu- Island of Woahoo-Sandwich Islands’-(Hammatt)-1834

Filed Under: General, Place Names, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Honolulu, Oahu, 1830s

April 28, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Artesian Way

Actually, a lot of streets fit into the telling of this story: Marques Street, Evelyn Lane, Oliver Street, and Artesian Way. They are all associated with Auguste and Evelyn Oliver Marques and, the drilling of the first artesian well in Makiki, Honolulu.

A plaque marks the spot – I’ve been by it too many times to count, and never noticed it – and as the plaque notes, “This Means the Promise of Beauty and Fertility For Thousands of Acres.”

Most of the early water wells were drilled in and around Honolulu. It was James Campbell who furnished the first conclusive demonstration of the practicability of artesian wells in Hawaii, when on the summer of 1879, on the plain near his ranch house in Ewa, a good flow of water was obtained. (Kuykendall)

Success of this experiment created intense interest and a group of men in Honolulu brought over from California another well-driller, AD Pierce, with better equipment, and in the spring of 1880 a flowing well was completed (April 28) on the land of Auguste Marques near Punahou.

Subsequently, many other wells were drilled, and it became evident that a large supply of water could be obtained by this method. Early in the 1880s, the McCandless brothers (James S., John A., and Lincoln L.) began their long career as artesian well drillers in the islands. (Kuykendall)

“The first artesian well bored in Honolulu was marked in appropriate ceremonies yesterday on the premises of the Marques home on Wilder avenue near Metcalf street.”

“The first shaft tapping Honolulu’s subterranean water supply was marked with a bronze plaque which reads, “Site of Honolulu’s Pioneer Artesian Well, brought in on April 28, 1880 for Dr. Augustus Marques. ‘This means the promise of beauty and fertility for thousands of acres’ —King Kalakaua. Sealed August, 1938—Board of Water Supply.” (Nippu Jiji, June 21, 1939)

Doctor Marques lived much of his Hawaiian life at 1928 Wilder Avenue (now the site of a small apartment building). He originally owned about 30 acres of land, most on the slope below Vancouver Place.

Immediately Ewa side of it is Punahou School. The eventual tract (of about 30 acres, one supposes) was complete by 1880, at a cost of perhaps $10,000.

The area was called ‘Marquesville.’ He “was instrumental in bringing a colony of Portuguese to Honolulu … and sold lots on long term credit to encourage them to become home owners.” (Bouslog) Later, there was also a Catholic Church, with services in English and Portuguese.

“When asked to what nationality he belongs, Dr. A. Marques replies that he Is a true cosmopolitan”. (Hawaiian Star, March 9, 1899) Marques Auguste Jean Baptiste Marques was born in Toulon, France, on November 17, 1841.

His father was French and Spanish and was a general in the French Army. His mother, of English an Scotch descent, was the daughter of General Cooke of the British Army. Auguste’s boyhood was spent in Morocco, Algiers and the Sahara.

His early ambition was to become a doctor, but his mother wanted him to become a scientist. As a compromise, he acquired a medical and scientific education but agreed not to take a diploma or to practice medicine.

After four years of medical training, he was valedictorian of his class at the University of Paris, but, true to his agreement, never accepted his diploma. For some years following his graduation he was connected with the Bureau of Agriculture in Paris.

Shortly after his mother’s death in 1875, Dr. Marques started on a trip around the world. Arriving in Honolulu Christmas Eve of 1878, he decided to stay over between steamers, and so liked Hawaii that he cancelled his passage and from then on made his home in Honolulu and later became a naturalized citizen.

From 1890 to 1891 Dr. Marques served in the Hawaiian legislature. In 1893 he organized the Theosophical Society in Honolulu and six years later went to Australia to serve as General Secretary of the Society for that country.

From Australia he was sent to India as a delegate to the Theosophical Society convention, representing both Australia and the United States. In 1900 he returned to Honolulu.

On June 7, 1900, Dr. Marques married Evelyn M. Oliver, manager of the Woman’s Exchange in Honolulu. (Mamiya Medical Heritage Center)

Born in Canada in 1863, Evelyn Oliver had come to Hawai’i from Canada in 1889 as a publisher’s representative. She soon became interested in providing a sales outlet and a source of income, for Hawaiian women’s handicrafts.

“This institution served a double purpose, it preserved the old arts and it enabled native women to profitably market their products.” In 1899, her store was at 215 Merchant Street, which was also her residence.

The 1905-6 Directory describes her business as “South Seas Curios, hats and calabashes.” Women of Hawaii thought her noteworthy because of her joining the struggle for women’s suffrage, as “an active worker in the Women’s League of Voters of Hawaii…” (Bouslog)

As with her husband, Mrs. Marques is also remembered by a street name or two. Across from their home on Wilder Avenue is Artesian Street, commemorating the “pioneer artesian well.” East of Artesian is Evelyn Way, then Oliver Lane.

Both first appear in the City Directory of 1914. And so for her last 25 years she lived across from street signs displaying her maiden names. (Bouslog)

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109-Honolulu Sanford Fire Maps-1914-Waikiki-portion-portion
109-Honolulu Sanford Fire Maps-1914-Waikiki-portion-portion
Auguste-Jean-Baptiste-Marques
Auguste-Jean-Baptiste-Marques

Filed Under: General, Place Names, Prominent People, Economy Tagged With: Evelyn Lane, Oliver Street, Artesian Way, Hawaii, Oahu, Makiki, Artesian Well, Marquesville, Auguste Marques, Marques Street

April 22, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hanailoia

Owing to the importance of the harbor of Honolulu, its central position in the Island chain and its increasing population, the principal chiefs and councilors convinced Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III) to move the seat of government from Lāhainā to Honolulu. (Taylor)

By 1843, the decision was made to permanently place a palace in Honolulu. At about that time, Governor Mataio Kekūanāoʻa was building a house for his daughter (Princess Victoria Kamāmalu.)

Victoria Kamāmalu was the sister of Prince Alexander Liholiho and Prince Lot Kamehameha, who afterwards became, respectively, Kamehameha IV and Kamehameha V. Her mother, the High Chiefess Kīnaʻu, the Premier of the kingdom, was a half-sister of Kamehameha III, all being descendants of Kamehameha I. (Taylor)

The original coral block and wooden building called Hanailoia was built in July 1844 on the grounds of the present ʻIolani Palace. (Thrum) It has been said that in olden times a large heiau or temple existed on this spot, the name of which was Ka‘ahaimauli.

“The flight of stone steps leading to the hall, is just completed. Underneath the building is a deep cellar and outside of that, below the spacious verandah, the floor of which is raised six feet from the ground, are extensive accommodations for the guards and household servant.”

“The main-hall occupies the entire depth of the house, but disfigured at one end by an enclosed flight of stairs leading to the upper rooms.”

“On either side of the hall are lofty and spacious apartments of larger size, with broad and high windows reaching to the floor, and so constructed that they can be thrown entirely up, and give free access to the verandah, which entirely encircles the house.”

“The view from the upper story is very fine. It commands an extensive prospect, not only of the town, but the mountains and vallies, and seaward. It is divided into two rooms, and is, we believe, designed for smoking and lounging, during the heat of the day …”

“… for which, from its elevated position and coolness, the mountain breezes sweeping most delightfully through it, it is admirably calculated. With an eye to our own comfort, we could not help thinking what a nice editorial sanctum it would make.”

“The whole house, from its massive walls and deep verandah, must necessarily be very cool, in the hottest weather. The governor intends to lay out the grounds with taste, planting them with trees, &c, and has already prepared several wells to give the necessary supply of water.” (Polynesian, November 9, 1844)

“To a person who has ever visited any of the abodes of European sovereigns, such a term (‘palace’) would at once convey an idea of regal magnificence; but the residence of the Hawaiian monarch produces nothing that is superfluous, or even splendid.”

“On the contrary, every thing about it is plain, even to plebeianism, and induces a visitor to think that he may be treading the apartments of a chief rather than the palace of a sovereign. The grounds on which it stands cover between two and three acres, and are inclosed with a heavy wall of rough coral.”

“A visitor enters on the south side, between lodges occupied by sleepy sentinels. A small but beautiful grove of trees wave their stately foliage on either side of the path leading up to the royal apartments, and their cool shade reminds one of the groves of the Academy and the Lyceum, where so many of the old masters read, studied, and rambled.”

“A few steps bring you in front of the palace proper. It has a very simple, rustic appearance. The walls are composed of coral procured from the reefs along the shore of the harbor. The ground-plan covers an area of seventy-four feet by forty-four. The building is a story and a half high.”

“A noble piazza, eight or ten feet wide, and raised a few feet above the ground, entirely surrounds the building. The chief apartment is the one in which the king holds his levees. In the centre of the eastern wall of the apartment stood the chair of state. Its unpretending aspect led me to invest it rather with republican simplicity than monarchical aristocracy.” (Bates)

Various residences were placed around the grounds, the Palace being used principally for state purposes. ‘Hoihoikea’ was the name given to the large, old-fashioned, livable cottage erected in the grounds a little to ewa and mauka of the old palace, in which Kamehameha III, Kamehameha IV, and Kamehameha V resided. (Taylor)

The former Hanailoia, named Hale Ali‘i, was the palace used by Kings Kamehameha III, IV, V and Lunalilo. However, when Alexander Liholiho (Kamehameha IV) died November 30, 1863, his older brother Lot Kapuāiwa (Kamehameha V) became King and he considered a name change.

Minutes of the December 7, 1863 Privy Council note that Chancellor EH Allen “expressed the wish of the King to give a name to the Palace and that he wished it should be called St Alexander Palace.”

“After some discussion, Mr Wyllie moved that the following resolution be passed. … (However) after duly considering the Question, they would prefer the ‘‘Iolani Palace’ to the ‘Alexander Palace’ but that they respectfully defer to His Majesty right to give to his own Palace what ever name may best please himself.”

The minutes reflect that shortly thereafter, Acting Chamberlain, John O Dominis wrote, “I am ordered by His Majesty to inform You that he has styled His residence ‘‘Iolani Palace’ and you are instructed so to record it in the Minutes of the Privy Council.” (Privy Council, December 7, 1863)

So, Hanailoia was not only Honolulu’s first royal Palace, it was also the first ʻIolani Palace (although the Privy Council minutes refer to it as ‘ʻIolani Hale Ali‘i.’) It was torn down in 1878 to make way for the present ʻIolani Palace.

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White building in the front is old royal Mausoleum-Pohukaina. Wooden building behind it is original ʻIolani Palace
White building in the front is old royal Mausoleum-Pohukaina. Wooden building behind it is original ʻIolani Palace
Old_Iolani_Palace_and_adjacent_premises,_ca._1850s
Old_Iolani_Palace_and_adjacent_premises,_ca._1850s
The old palace, which was built in 1845 and was replaced by Iolani Palace in 1882
The old palace, which was built in 1845 and was replaced by Iolani Palace in 1882
Palace_of_King_Kamehameha_III,_from_the_harbor_(c._1853)
Palace_of_King_Kamehameha_III,_from_the_harbor_(c._1853)
Hale_Aliʻi_with_Royal_Guards_(before 1879
Hale_Aliʻi_with_Royal_Guards_(before 1879
Hale_Aliʻi_in_1857
Hale_Aliʻi_in_1857
Hale_Alii_illustration
Hale_Alii_illustration
Former_Iolani_Palace-before-1879
Former_Iolani_Palace-before-1879
Pohukaina-in_front_of_Hale_Alii-original_Iolani_Palace-1850s
Pohukaina-in_front_of_Hale_Alii-original_Iolani_Palace-1850s
'Io, the Endemic Hawaiian Hawk
‘Io, the Endemic Hawaiian Hawk

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Buildings Tagged With: Oahu, Iolani Palace, Victoria Kamamalu, Kamehameha IV, Kamehameha III, Mataio Kekuanaoa, Hale Alii, Kekuanaoa, Kamehameha V, Hanailoia, Hawaii, Alexander Palace

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