Hilo

September 1, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hilo Hanakāhi, i ka ua Kanilehua
Hilo of Hanakāhi, where the rain is in the lehua forest
(Naumu)

Each island was divided into several moku (districts,) of which there are six in the island of Hawaiʻi. There is a district called Kona on the lee side and one called Koʻolau on the windward side of almost every island. (Alexander) The moku of Hawaiʻi Island are: Kona, Kohala, Hāmākua, Puna, Kaʻū and Hilo.

In old Hawaiʻi, it was the nature of ‘place’ that shaped the practical, cultural and spiritual view of the Hawaiian people. The name chosen might reflect the physical characteristics of the place, it might recall some event which occurred there, or it might refer to the god or gods which invested that spot.

The meaning of a particular Hawaiian place name might have been evident to all, or understandable only to those intimately familiar with the place and its history. Often times a single place name carried more than one meaning. In addition to its easily discernible descriptive meaning, a place name might also possess a kaona, a hidden meaning.

The name ‘Hilo’ carries several meanings.

Hilo is the name of a renowned Polynesian navigator who is believed to have discovered this coast. His chief, to honor the feat, named the area for him.

Hilo means “twisted,” like a thread or rope as in spun, drawn out and twisted into thread.

Hilo is the name of the first day of the month according to Hawaiian calculation (the first night of the new moon – the first thin, twisted sliver of light.) (It was a favorable day, and the potato, melon and banana seeds planted by the farmer on this day would bear well. (Fornander))

While we call the district and broad Bay Hilo, there are three parts of Hilo: Hilo Pali Kū, Hilo One and Hilo Hanakāhi.

Hilo Pali Kū means “Hilo of the standing cliffs” and refers to the northern part of this moku, where the shore is mainly high, rocky cliffs (extending from the cliffs on Wailuku River to Ka‘ula.)

Hilo One or “Sandy Hilo,” is a stretch of black sand beach fronting the downtown area ( extending from Kanukuokamanu (at the mouth of Wailoa Stream) to Wailuku River.)

Hilo Hanakāhi (the area from Waiākea to the Puna boundary,) named after a great chief of Hilo, is the area south of Kanukuokamanu, where the Wailoa pond meets the ocean. Mokuola, also called Coconut Island, sits in the bay. (Kumukahi) Hanakāhi was renowned for the peace and prosperity of his reign.

Hilo has a long history, and already was populated when the first European visitors arrived. It has been the residence of chiefs and the home of legendary heroes.

The song Hilo Hanakāhi names various places on the island of Hawaii and things for which they were noted: rain, pandanus, wind and sea. The listing is more or less in clockwise direction. The annual makahiki processions went in this order. ʻUmi-a-Liloa was strongly advised by his priests to travel in this fashion.

Pukui notes, when seeking knowledge of the past, to travel with your right (strong) arm on the side of the mountains, where strength lies. Journeys for relaxation or to lessen grief, journey with the sea on the left side, to wash away sorrows and tribulations. (Elbert & Mahoe)

The song, Hilo Hanakāhi, takes the listener on a tour around the Big Island of Hawaiʻi; leaving from Hilo you are taken through eight different districts and learn the physical attributes of each: Hilo, rain in the lehua forest …

… Puna fragrant hala blossoms; Kaʻū , wind scattered dust; Kona, land of calm seas; Kawaihae, a sea that whispers; Kohala, a gusty wind; Waimea, a cold pelting rain and Hāmākua, cliffs where the bird soars, returning to the rain in the lehua forest. (Naumu)

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Hilo-1891-Map_over_Google_Earth

View_of_Hilo,_Mauna_Kea_and_Mauna_Loa_in_the_1820s

Hilo_illustration,_c._1870s

‘Hilo_Bay’,_oil_painting_by_Joseph_Nawahi,_circa_1868

‘View_of_Hilo_Bay’,_oil_painting_by_Joseph_Nawahi,_1888

WLA_haa_Hilo_from_the_Bay_by_James_Gay_Sawkins_1852

View_of_Hilo,_Mauna_Kea_and_Mauna_Loa-Bingham-in_the_1820s

Ke_Kūlanakauhaleʻo_Hilo,_1874

Hilo

Hilo-DMY

Hilo_by_Harvey_Hitchcock-between 1871 and 1891

Edward_Bailey_-_’View_of_Hilo_Bay’,_oil_on_canvas,_c._1875

Charles_Furneaux_-_’Hilo’,_oil_on_canvas,_c._1880s

Near Hilo wharf. Mauna Kea in the background.-(HSA)-PPWD-5-2-011-1895

Beach scene at Hilo Bay, Hawaii-(HSA)-PPWD-5-2-009

April 21, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Hilo Yacht Club

While the Club’s website suggests it formed in 1913, the January 20, 1897 issue of Pacific Commercial Advertiser noted, “The past week has recorded another innovation in Hilo the organization of the Hilo Yacht Club …”

It will “aim to encourage aquatic sports and athletics. The initiatory meeting was held on Saturday evening, the 9th (1897)… Within five days the membership roll included 75 names…”

The original site of the Club was the CC Kennedy home built before 1900 and situated near Reeds Bay. The Club maintained a small boat house and several boats to support the lively interest in competitive rowing. During the early years the Club entered rowing competitions in both Hilo and Honolulu against Honolulu rowing crews.

By 1919 the growth and success of the Club prompted members to begin a drive to replace the Kennedy house. Likewise, members concerned with the potential liability from the Club’s indebtedness wanted the protection of the corporation and incorporation was accomplished on December 18, 1919.

Then, expansion took place.

“Architect Davis of the firm Ripley & Davis is preparing plans for the Hilo Yacht Club building, which is to be erected on the Cocoanut Island side of the Hilo Wharf. There is much enthusiasm among the members of the newly formed club and all are anxious to get into their club quarters.” (Star-bulletin, August 16, 1913)

On September 10, 1937 the Yacht Club’s lease came up for renewal. Charles C Pietsch, a prominent Honolulu realtor, outbid the Yacht Club trustees after spirited bidding.

The Inter-Island Steamship Company, the Hilo Hotel and Doris Duke Cromwell were among the possible interested parties.

By April 1938, the community learned that a group of Hilo businessmen headed by Senator WH “Doc” Hill, a Yacht Club member, was negotiating a lease from Pietsch for the purpose of building the Naniloa Hotel.

Having lost the lease, the Hilo Yacht Club, in 1939, moved, again, relocated and renovated the Keaukaha home of Frank Harlocker, on 2.84-acres. (Wilson)

Frank Arakawa, county architect, was hired to draw up plans and specifications for a combination dance pavilion and badminton court, a bar room, alterations to the former Harlocker home and a swimming pool and bathhouse.

The Clubhouse included the new pavilion and the former Harlocker home. The remodeled home included a reception room, dining room, kitchen, ladies’ dressing room, and men’s smoking room.

In 1939 the Club membership included: 106-resident members, 21-lady members, two-junior members, four-life members, one-honorary member and 66-nonresident members.

Just before 7 am on April 1, 1946 a devastating tsunami hit the Island of Hawaiʻi; the water rose up to the level of the steps. Staff was able to escape by the back roads the tsunami washed away all buildings on the site of the Yacht Club.

A bathhouse was quickly rebuilt at the swimming pool, and by July the swimming pool was reopened. The Clubhouse was not so easily restored. The Yacht Club made arrangements with the Girl Scouts to use their clubhouse (until 1949 when the present clubhouse was completed.)

I recently attended a function at the Hilo Yacht Club; unlike prior days (with a ‘boathouse’ and ‘several boats,’) there were no boats in sight.

It seems the mission of organizing a ‘social club’ promoting ‘other’ pastimes is being fulfilled.

The club website notes, “The recreational focal point of the Club is the spacious ocean view pool enjoyed throughout the year. For those who prefer outdoor sports, the club maintains three tennis courts, a black sand volleyball court and a new Fitness Center.”

A recent Club newsletter notes current membership includes: 511-resident members, 38-allied members, 20-honorary members and 55-nonresident members (624-total.) (Lots of information and images from Hilo Yacht Club.)

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Hilo Yacht Club

Hilo Yacht Club 1920s-eBay

Hilo Yacht Club

Hilo-Waiakea-Makaoku-DAGS-HTS776-1920

March 23, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hilo Hotel

“It is asserted by many that Hilo is the most beautiful city in the Islands. … Situated on its magnificent crescent-shaped bay amid dense dark-green foliage, it extends its welcome to all and opens its portals to the historic and romantic interest of the Big Island.”

“Of course, no visitor to the Hawaiian Islands fails to see the great volcano Kilauea.” (Musick; Ludington Daily News, March 12, 1896)

“… it does seem a pity to be so close to it and fail to explore its wonders. … It matters little whether or not the volcano is active during our visit, but, of course, we hope it will be.” (When you Go To Hawaiʻi, 1930)

But you needed ways to get there …

“There have been two meetings of the people to discuss the Volcano road and there is a general desire to have it made. Tourists will find it more pleasant to go to the Volcano by way of Hilo … as the road from Hilo to the Volcano will be through the woods mostly, the ride will be enchanting.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, August 20, 1888)

By 1890, “the Legislature having appropriated a definite sum of money for the Volcano road;” the “public work” road was under construction. However, the funding was not enough and prison labor was later used to construct the road. (Hawaiian Gazette, July 15, 1890)

“The year 1894 witnessed the completion of the volcano road which was begun in 1889. … it affords a fine carriage drive the entire distance of thirty miles. Regular stages now run between Hilo and the Volcano House every other day.” (Thrum)

But, before the ride on the road, you needed to get to the Island …

Before interisland air travel, competitors Wilder Steamship Co (1872) and Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co (1883) were the way to go. Wilder took you straight to Hilo; Interisland took a southern route around the Island to Punaluʻu. From there, folks rode a railroad to Pahala and then coaches hauled the visitors to the volcano from the Kaʻū side.

And they came … But you also needed a place to stay …

“In former times Hilo, like many of the country towns, lacked a hotel where travelers can stay and feel at home. In this respect the village is now well supplied by the ‘Hilo Hotel,’ kept by Joseph Vierra, formerly of the ‘White House’ in Honolulu. Here are now ample accommodations for travelers on the principal street, and in the center of the village.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, December 1, 1891)

But Hilo hotel accommodations didn’t seem to have the same happy history as the road construction or interisland steamers bringing people to see the Volcano (or other reasons to come to Hilo.)

“Every now and then an attempt at running something like a regular hotel would be made by some enterprising resident, but heretofore these experiments have not resulted in any marked success, for what reason it is not the purpose of this article to inquire. All that our readers will care to know is whether Hilo has a good hotel now, and whether if it has the boon is likely to be perpetuated.” (Evening Bulletin, May 21, 1896)

“Old Hotel Will Soon Be Replaced … The need of a new building for a hotel in Hilo has been felt by every tourist visiting the place. The present hostelry has been standing for many years, and was limited as to rooms, and void of conveniences. The place has been a nightmare to the people of Hilo, for the reason that it had a tendency to drive people away, while the new one will be inviting.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 26, 1897)

“One of the problems that confront Hilo in view of the increase in travel, which promises to further increase, is adequate hotel accommodations for visitors. The Hilo Hotel under its present management has become so popular a place to live that many rooms and cottages formerly available for transients are now occupied by Hilo people”. (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)

And more came … “With the appearance of the steamer Enterprise, which will make regular voyages between this port and San Francisco, the number of strangers within the gates of Hilo at all times will be larger than heretofore. Perhaps a dozen more cottages will be required to accommodate visitors when steamers arrive, especially when the boats from Frisco and Honolulu arrive simultaneously.” (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)

“One of the burdens falling upon owners of hotels in a city which is just starting out as an attraction for the traveller, is that of maintaining their plant at a standard several notches above the immediate demands of the trade.”

“The owners of the Hilo Hotel have been doing this and they should have more credit perhaps than is accorded them. It is they who put a good front before the weary voyager who must always arrive in Hilo after a forty round bout with Father Neptune.” (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)

“The well-known progressive character of the men who own the Hilo Hotel is a guarantee that they will consider all matters which bear upon the future welfare of Hilo. Any minute that they feel conditions warrant it, they will make annex and annex to the Hotel until it becomes as large as the Moana, if necessary.” (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)

But, things changed for the Hilo Hotel … “The Volcano House is ‘getting off on the right foot.’ Even Madam Pele is waking up to the fact and is starting in on at least a benefit performance. There is a gray side to this bright picture, however. The Hilo Hotel is closed. It has been converted into a chapel.” (Hilo Tribune, March 6, 1903)

“The need of a hotel at Hilo is more acute since new life has been injected into the hotel at the Volcano. The same push and energy would make the Hilo Hotel a popular and paying proposition.” (Hilo Tribune, March 6, 1903)

Things turned to a bright side, again, when George Lycurgus and his nephew (Demosthenes Lycurgus) bought and reopened the Hilo Hotel … “Tourists will no longer complain of the lack of hotel accommodations in Hilo …” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, May 29, 1909)

“The building was constructed about eleven years ago after the original Hilo Hotel, presided over by Joseph Vierra, proved too small for the accommodation of the people who visited Hilo.”

The replacement structure was “a two-story building with a row of cottages on either side of the lot. Even with the additional rooms supplied by the new structure there were not enough to meet the demands of the people who happened along on the steamer which arrived once in ten days.”

“The cottages were so inviting to the local people that they were preempted and many of the best rooms in the main building were taken by Hiloites so that it was not long before there was the old complaint of no rooms for tourists.”

“For several years the cottages only have been in use. They were found desirable by residents who were satisfied with smaller quarters than a dwelling and were quick to take advantage of the opportunity to secure a suitable place convenient to business. While a first-class cuisine will be the rule at the Hilo Hotel, Mr. Lycurgus will probably continue to maintain his town café, for the accommodation of the public.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, May 29, 1909)

By 1911, there were two hotels in Hilo, the Hilo Hotel and the Demosthenes (both under Lycurgus.) In addition, Lycurgus (Uncle George) owned the Volcano House. (Mid Pacific Magazine, Encyclopedia, 1911)

At the age of 81, Lycurgus traveled to Washington, DC to have the construction of the new park headquarters building farther back from the lip of the crater.

That allowed him, in 1941, to build a more modern hotel at the former Hawaiian Volcano Observatory site. He reopened the new Volcano House (designed by notable architect Charles William Dickey.)

After another eruption in 1952, at the age of 93, he arranged a publicity stunt involving riding a horse to the rim of the erupting vent and tossing in his ceremonial bottle of gin. (The offering of gin became a regular at Volcano after that.) Uncle George died in 1960 at the age of 101.

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Hilo_Hotel-(DMY)-1891

Hilo_Hotel-(DMY)

Hilo_Hotel-1924

New Hilo Hotel-Front-PCA-Feb_26,_1897

New Hilo Hotel-Side-PCA-Feb_26,_1897

A_Road_To_The-Volcano-(Mid-PacificMagazine)-1913

Road (new) to volcano-(HHS-6032)

Volcano_House-(LOC)-1902

Volcano House, Kīlauea, Hawai‘i-(HHS-6018)-early 1890s

Early_Inter_Island_Routes

SS Waialeale

March 13, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Albert Kualiʻi Brickwood Lyman

Born in Paʻauhau on the Hāmākua Coast of the Island of Hawaiʻi, on May 5, 1885, Albert Kualiʻi Brickwood Lyman was the 13th-son of Rufus Anderson and Rebecca Hualani (Ahung) Lyman, who was the fifth child of the Rev and Mrs David Belden Lyman, missionaries who came to Hawaiʻi in 1832.

Lyman attended Kamehameha School for Boys and graduated from Punahou School in 1906. Lyman was one of three brothers to attend West Point (Clarence and Charles;) each was appointed to West Point by Prince Jonah Kūhio Kalanianaʻole.

In 1909, Lyman, nicknamed “Queen Lil” from his brother, Clarence, who preceded him there, graduated from West Point ranked 15th in his class of 103 – classmate George S Patton, Jr was ranked 46th.

His early Army years were spent in various parts of the continent and abroad (with a short stint in the Islands, including construction work at “Little Shafter” and military engineering in all parts of the Island.) He had 25-assignments in 12-states and 4-overseas posts (Panama, France, Cuba and Philippines.)

In 1922, Major Lyman was assigned to duty in Havana, Cuba, where he served as military attaché. From Cuba, Major Lyman returned to Washington, DC where he was in charge of the military intelligence information bureau.

Previously serving at Schofield Barracks as a junior officer (1913-1916,) he returned there in May 1940, where as a full colonel he was commanding officer of the 3d Engineer Combat Battalion.

On March 13, 1942, Lyman was named Hawaiian Department engineer, an important post in connection with the building of island defenses.

All Engineer operations within the Hawaiian Department were under his direction. Fortifications were rushed to completion; new airfields were built in record time; while, at the same time, distant and far-flung Pacific Islands were rapidly converted into military bases.

On August 11, 1942, Lyman was the first native Hawaiian (and Asian, he was also part-Chinese) to attain the rank of general or admiral in the US Armed Forces. He died suddenly of a heart attack on August 13, 1942, two days after his promotion.

(The nomination was before the Senate for confirmation at the time General Lyman was stricken. The War Department decided to issue the officer’s commission to brigadier generalship dated prior to his death.)

On October 20, 1942, Brigadier General Lyman was posthumously awarded the Distinguished Service Medal “For exceptionally meritorious service in a position of great responsibility.”

“As Department Engineer, Hawaiian Department, from July 9, 1940 to August 12, 1942, he was responsible for the planning and construction of projects totaling many millions of dollars.”

“He displayed exceptional organizing ability, excellent judgment, and a superior quality of leadership in the handling of military and civilian construction forces engaged in that work, resulting in finishing many of the necessary defense projects far in advance of the anticipated completion dates.”

“His untiring effort, unceasing devotion to duty, and inspiring leadership in the execution of seemingly impossible tasks were of great value to the Army.”

On April 19, 1943, by Joint Resolution, the Hawaiʻi Territorial legislature changed the name of Hilo Airport to General Lyman Field.

(In 1989, the airport’s name was changed to Hilo International Airport and the main passenger terminal was named for General Lyman. The terminal was rededicated to Lyman on September 29, 1993.) (Lots of information here is from West Point, Army Corps and hawaii-gov.)

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Army Distinguished Service Medal

Lyman Display – Hilo Airport

Hilo Airport, August 12, 1941

Lyman Display – Hilo Airport

Albert_KB_Lyman

David_Lyman,_Sarah_Lyman_and_children,_Hilo,_in_1853

Lyman_House (Lyman Museum and Mission House)

February 25, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Hilo Airport

The history of aviation on the Big Island dates back to June 10, 1911 when Clarence H. Walker came to Hilo for an exhibition flight in his Curtiss Biplane. There were no airports on the island, so Hoʻolulu Park was selected for the runway.

The first successful flight from Honolulu to the Big Island was made on March 24, 1919 by Army Maj Hugh Kneer in a US Army hydroplane. He landed in Kūhio Bay; he brought a bag of mail, thus beginning air mail service between Honolulu and Hilo by Army planes.

The first commercial flight to the Big Island took place when Martin Jensen piloted the Lewis Tours aircraft Malolo into a perfect landing at Hoʻolulu Park on a flight from Kahului. The first passengers on this historic flight were Mr and Mrs Walter Eklund.

In December 1920, a ramp was built by the Hawaiian Contracting Company in Radio Bay in Hilo to haul visiting seaplanes from the bay onto land.

On February 25, 1925, Speaker of the House Norman K Lyman of Hilo introduced a resolution requesting the governor to set aside 50 acres of land at Waiākea for a landing field. This was amended to 100 acres the following day by the Aviation Committee.

A resolution was also introduced authorizing Territory officials to use convict labor to level the land for the landing field.

Work on Hilo Airport began July 17, 1925. Six county prisoners were joined by 40 Oʻahu convicts upon the completion of the Waiākea Prison Camp buildings.

Using tools donated by the County, the 46-prisoners began on September 8, 1925. Use of prison labor had its problems; in 1926, several escaped (and later caught.) The escapes and captures continued.

Most of the site was cleared by the end of the year. A 400 by 2,000-foot field was surveyed heading into the prevailing winds. They started to level the site using dredge material from the nearby Hilo Bay Breakwater project.

In February 1928, Major Clarence M Young, then Secretary of Aeronautics, US Department of Commerce, came to Hawaiʻi to inspect aviation facilities and promote commercial aviation in the Territory.

On February 11, 1928, Major Young was flown to Hilo in the Bird of Paradise for the purpose of dedicating the new airport (the same plane that Army Lts Maitland and Hegenberger used in making the first successful flight to Hawaiʻi on June 29, 1927.)

Inter-Island Airways (later renamed Hawaiian Air) began the first regularly scheduled passenger service between the islands on November 11, 1929 using Sikorsky S-38 amphibians. The fare was $32 between Honolulu and Hilo. Inter-Island Airways’ terminal was dedicated at Hilo Airport on March 22, 1930.

A second and third runways were added and the airport was renovated (the renovation dedication ceremony was held May 2, 1941.)

At the outbreak of World War II, Hilo Airport was taken over by the Army Engineers, and an Air Corps fighter squadron was stationed there. US Army Engineers constructed military installations and continued the expansion of runways, taxiways and parking aprons.

The construction of the Naval Air Station started shortly thereafter on all the necessary facilities to base and train two full air groups. The name of Hilo Airport was changed to General Lyman Field on April 19, 1943.

It was named to honor Brigadier General Albert Kualiʻi Brickwood Lyman, who was born at Paʻauhau and was the first native Hawaiian (he was also part-Chinese) to attain the rank of general or admiral in the US Armed Forces.

After the war, military operations at Hilo Airport steadily decreased. Permission to operate General Lyman Field as a commercial airport was granted the Territory by letter from the Commanding General, Armed Forces, Mid-Pacific, dated September 30, 1946.

Later, with construction of a new passenger terminal and conversion to commercial use, on December 3, 1953 the new administration and terminal building were dedicated.

On January 27, 1967, The Civil Aeronautics Board (CAB) heard testimony on applications from Pan American, United and Northwest Airlines on their proposals to provide direct service from the Mainland to Hilo.

Senator Daniel Inouye testified that “a common fare (the same price for a ticket to all points in Hawaiʻi from the Mainland) was not only important to Hawaiʻi County but to all Neighbor Islands. They are growing at a snail’s pace while Oʻahu is growing in leaps and bounds.” He suggested that a common fare would help to balance the inequity.

Direct jet routes to Hilo from the Mainland were approved by the CAB on April 17, 1967 for United, Pan Am and Northwest.

The airlines could not fly between Honolulu and Hilo but permitted round trip passengers from the continent to fly between islands for $5-$9 regardless of where they originally landed in the islands. (So, visitors arrived into Honolulu or Hilo, did island hopping for under $10 a segment and flew home out of the other airport.)

It was a shot in the arm for the Hilo visitor industry and an added benefit was air freight for East Hawaiʻi’s farmers (about 40,000-pounds of papayas left for Los Angeles on the first direct United Air Lines jet flight form Hilo.) A number of trans-Pacific carriers took advantage and served Hilo.

Expanded service required expanded facilities and on April 30, 1976 a new passenger terminal was dedicated. The 105-foot high FAA Traffic Control Tower opened on November 2, 1979.

The common fare didn’t last long, and in January 1979, citing economic concerns, Continental Airlines ceased service between the mainland and Hilo, ending 10 years of association.

Along with regular passenger service, Continental carried one million pounds of cargo each month. Five months later, United Airlines announced that it would also cease direct flights out of San Francisco.

In 1989, the airport’s name was changed to Hilo International Airport and the main passenger terminal was named for General Lyman. The terminal was rededicated to Lyman on September 29, 1993.

In 2010, Hilo International Airport was served by two interisland carriers, two commuter airlines, and several aerial sight-seeing tour companies. It no longer had scheduled Trans-Pacific service. (Lots of information here is from hawaii-gov.)

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