“It is asserted by many that Hilo is the most beautiful city in the Islands. … Situated on its magnificent crescent-shaped bay amid dense dark-green foliage, it extends its welcome to all and opens its portals to the historic and romantic interest of the Big Island.”
“Of course, no visitor to the Hawaiian Islands fails to see the great volcano Kilauea.” (Musick; Ludington Daily News, March 12, 1896)
“… it does seem a pity to be so close to it and fail to explore its wonders. … It matters little whether or not the volcano is active during our visit, but, of course, we hope it will be.” (When you Go To Hawaiʻi, 1930)
But you needed ways to get there …
“There have been two meetings of the people to discuss the Volcano road and there is a general desire to have it made. Tourists will find it more pleasant to go to the Volcano by way of Hilo … as the road from Hilo to the Volcano will be through the woods mostly, the ride will be enchanting.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, August 20, 1888)
By 1890, “the Legislature having appropriated a definite sum of money for the Volcano road;” the “public work” road was under construction. However, the funding was not enough and prison labor was later used to construct the road. (Hawaiian Gazette, July 15, 1890)
“The year 1894 witnessed the completion of the volcano road which was begun in 1889. … it affords a fine carriage drive the entire distance of thirty miles. Regular stages now run between Hilo and the Volcano House every other day.” (Thrum)
But, before the ride on the road, you needed to get to the Island …
Before interisland air travel, competitors Wilder Steamship Co (1872) and Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co (1883) were the way to go. Wilder took you straight to Hilo; Interisland took a southern route around the Island to Punaluʻu. From there, folks rode a railroad to Pahala and then coaches hauled the visitors to the volcano from the Kaʻū side.
And they came … But you also needed a place to stay …
“In former times Hilo, like many of the country towns, lacked a hotel where travelers can stay and feel at home. In this respect the village is now well supplied by the ‘Hilo Hotel,’ kept by Joseph Vierra, formerly of the ‘White House’ in Honolulu. Here are now ample accommodations for travelers on the principal street, and in the center of the village.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, December 1, 1891)
But Hilo hotel accommodations didn’t seem to have the same happy history as the road construction or interisland steamers bringing people to see the Volcano (or other reasons to come to Hilo.)
“Every now and then an attempt at running something like a regular hotel would be made by some enterprising resident, but heretofore these experiments have not resulted in any marked success, for what reason it is not the purpose of this article to inquire. All that our readers will care to know is whether Hilo has a good hotel now, and whether if it has the boon is likely to be perpetuated.” (Evening Bulletin, May 21, 1896)
“Old Hotel Will Soon Be Replaced … The need of a new building for a hotel in Hilo has been felt by every tourist visiting the place. The present hostelry has been standing for many years, and was limited as to rooms, and void of conveniences. The place has been a nightmare to the people of Hilo, for the reason that it had a tendency to drive people away, while the new one will be inviting.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 26, 1897)
“One of the problems that confront Hilo in view of the increase in travel, which promises to further increase, is adequate hotel accommodations for visitors. The Hilo Hotel under its present management has become so popular a place to live that many rooms and cottages formerly available for transients are now occupied by Hilo people”. (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)
And more came … “With the appearance of the steamer Enterprise, which will make regular voyages between this port and San Francisco, the number of strangers within the gates of Hilo at all times will be larger than heretofore. Perhaps a dozen more cottages will be required to accommodate visitors when steamers arrive, especially when the boats from Frisco and Honolulu arrive simultaneously.” (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)
“One of the burdens falling upon owners of hotels in a city which is just starting out as an attraction for the traveller, is that of maintaining their plant at a standard several notches above the immediate demands of the trade.”
“The owners of the Hilo Hotel have been doing this and they should have more credit perhaps than is accorded them. It is they who put a good front before the weary voyager who must always arrive in Hilo after a forty round bout with Father Neptune.” (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)
“The well-known progressive character of the men who own the Hilo Hotel is a guarantee that they will consider all matters which bear upon the future welfare of Hilo. Any minute that they feel conditions warrant it, they will make annex and annex to the Hotel until it becomes as large as the Moana, if necessary.” (Hilo Tribune, January 24, 1902)
But, things changed for the Hilo Hotel … “The Volcano House is ‘getting off on the right foot.’ Even Madam Pele is waking up to the fact and is starting in on at least a benefit performance. There is a gray side to this bright picture, however. The Hilo Hotel is closed. It has been converted into a chapel.” (Hilo Tribune, March 6, 1903)
“The need of a hotel at Hilo is more acute since new life has been injected into the hotel at the Volcano. The same push and energy would make the Hilo Hotel a popular and paying proposition.” (Hilo Tribune, March 6, 1903)
Things turned to a bright side, again, when George Lycurgus and his nephew (Demosthenes Lycurgus) bought and reopened the Hilo Hotel … “Tourists will no longer complain of the lack of hotel accommodations in Hilo …” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, May 29, 1909)
“The building was constructed about eleven years ago after the original Hilo Hotel, presided over by Joseph Vierra, proved too small for the accommodation of the people who visited Hilo.”
The replacement structure was “a two-story building with a row of cottages on either side of the lot. Even with the additional rooms supplied by the new structure there were not enough to meet the demands of the people who happened along on the steamer which arrived once in ten days.”
“The cottages were so inviting to the local people that they were preempted and many of the best rooms in the main building were taken by Hiloites so that it was not long before there was the old complaint of no rooms for tourists.”
“For several years the cottages only have been in use. They were found desirable by residents who were satisfied with smaller quarters than a dwelling and were quick to take advantage of the opportunity to secure a suitable place convenient to business. While a first-class cuisine will be the rule at the Hilo Hotel, Mr. Lycurgus will probably continue to maintain his town café, for the accommodation of the public.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, May 29, 1909)
By 1911, there were two hotels in Hilo, the Hilo Hotel and the Demosthenes (both under Lycurgus.) In addition, Lycurgus (Uncle George) owned the Volcano House. (Mid Pacific Magazine, Encyclopedia, 1911)
At the age of 81, Lycurgus traveled to Washington, DC to have the construction of the new park headquarters building farther back from the lip of the crater.
That allowed him, in 1941, to build a more modern hotel at the former Hawaiian Volcano Observatory site. He reopened the new Volcano House (designed by notable architect Charles William Dickey.)
After another eruption in 1952, at the age of 93, he arranged a publicity stunt involving riding a horse to the rim of the erupting vent and tossing in his ceremonial bottle of gin. (The offering of gin became a regular at Volcano after that.) Uncle George died in 1960 at the age of 101.
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