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January 6, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pauka‘a Lighthouse

The US Lighthouse Service had the earliest impact on the maritime histories of Alaska and Hawai‘i. In 1716, the first North American lighthouse was established, but it was not until 1852 that the first light towers were built on the West Coast.

When the US bought Alaska from Russia in 1867, a light was already established at Sitka. In 1898, just over 20 years after acquiring Alaska, the US annexed Hawai‘i. The territorial government was first responsible for aids to navigation. (USCG)

Between 1824 and 1848 Hilo became a significant center for foreign activities, primarily as a result of the establishment of religious mission stations by American missionaries.

Passengers and cargo landed at Hilo in the surf along the beach until about 1863, when a wharf was constructed at the base of present day Waiānuenue Street.

By 1874, Hilo ranked as the second largest population center in the islands, and within a few years shortly thereafter Hilo with its fertile uplands, plentiful water supply and good port became a major center for sugarcane production and export.

Hilo Bay is partially protected by a reef located in 10 to 20 feet of water (later named Blonde Reef after Lord Byron’s vessel, HMS Blonde, which successfully anchored there in 1825.) (The Blonde had carried the bodies of Liholiho (who was born in Hilo) and Kamāmalu back from London, where they died from measles during a visit there.)

Several sites were suggested for the first light to mark Hilo Bay, but the one finally selected was on the shore at Paukaʻa, two-and-a-half miles north of Hilo. The light was erected and first lit on August 13, 1869.

The local sheriff was responsible for overseeing Paukaʻa Light, and in 1871 he sent a report to the Hawaiian minister of the Interior. “I visited the lighthouse yesterday and find that the Chinaman in charge is very negligent in his duties, not trimming the light properly. I showed him the proper way and tonight it shows finely from here.” (Lighthouse Friends)

In 1873, the light structure nearly blew over in a strong wind, prompting the sheriff to send another report to the minister. “This is a very valuable light to vessels coming into Hilo and it should not be allowed to go out of repair; $100 will put it in good condition. I have lately bought an excellent safety lamp for it, which throws a light visible at sea from 10 to 12 miles.”

Incoming vessels from abroad were being charged three dollars for lighthouse dues, and the sheriff requested that some of the collected money be used to elevate the light to make it more visible.

To justify his proposal, he included the following account of an exchange he had when requesting payment of the lighthouse fee. “One captain when charged for lights wanted to know where the lighthouse was and said he had not seen anything around that looked like a lighthouse.”

In 1890, a new Pauka‘a Light was built on the bluff above the original site. Adding the height of the bluff, the new Pauka‘a Light had a focal plane of 159 feet. After the Lighthouse Board took control of Hawaii’s lights in 1904, a thirty-eight-foot mast was erected in place of the tower.

The government wharf at Waiākea was constructed at Kalauokukui Point between 1897 and 1899, and was upgraded in 1902. Hilo Bay was still unprotected from high winds and storm surges that caused ships to break loose from their moorings and risk grounding.

Early sailing directions into Hilo bay were: “From Eastward – Give Leleiwi Point a berth of 1 mile in rounding it and steer 280° true (W 1/8 N mag) for 4 ½ miles, heading for Pauka‘a light until ½ to ¾ mile from shore …”

“… then steer 184° true (S ½ E mag,) keeping this distance offshore and taking care to pass westward of Blonde Reef whistling buoy. Anchor southward of the black can buoys, marking the south-westerly edge of Blonde Reef, with the Hilo Sugar Company’s mill bearing 279° true (W mag,) in 7 to 8 fathoms.”

“From Northward.—After rounding Pepe‘ekeo Point steer 184° true (S ½ E mag,) keeping ½ to ¾ mile offshore and taking care to pass westward of Blonde Reef whistling buoy, anchor as directed in the preceding paragraph.”

“Dangers – The lead is generally a good guide on the south side of the bay, but the shoaling is abrupt to Blonde Reef and the reefs around and eastward of Coconut Island.” (Coast Pilot Notes on Hawaiian Islands, USGS, 1912)

The present pyramidal concrete tower, exhibiting a green flash every six seconds at a height of 145 feet, was placed at the point in 1925. (Lighthouse Friends)

In the late 19th century, the growing sugar industry in East Hawai’i demanded a better and more protected port, and a breakwater was constructed on Blonde Reef to shield ships from rough waters as they entered Hilo Harbor.

In 1908, construction began on a breakwater along the shallow reef, beginning at the shoreline east of Kūhīo Bay. The breakwater was completed in 1929 and extended roughly halfway across the bay. In 1912, contracts were awarded to construct Kūhiō Wharf, to dredge the approach to the new wharf, and to lay railroad track into the new harbor facility.

Between 1927 and 1928, the approach to Pier 3 was dredged and the pier was widened. In 1929, the 10,080-foot long rubble mound breakwater was completed.

Contrary to urban legend, the Hilo breakwater was built to dissipate general wave energy and reduce wave action in the protected bay, providing calm water within the bay and protection for mooring and operating in the bay; it was not built as a tsunami protection barrier for Hilo.

In fact, in 1946, Hilo was struck by a tsunami generated by an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands; it was struck again in 1960 by a tsunami generated by the great Chilean earthquake – both tsunami overtopped the breakwater and Hilo sustained significant damage, including to the breakwater.

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Paukaa Lighthouse-1904 (LighthouseFriends)
Paukaa Lighthouse-1904 (LighthouseFriends)
Hilo_illustration,_c._1870s
Hilo_illustration,_c._1870s
View_of_Hilo_Harbor,_circa_1901
View_of_Hilo_Harbor,_circa_1901
Hilo Harbor-1890
Hilo Harbor-1890
Hilo_Black_Sand_Beach
Hilo_Black_Sand_Beach
Hilo Wharf, Hilo, Hawaii island-PP-29-4-002
Hilo Wharf, Hilo, Hawaii island-PP-29-4-002
Hilo Landing, Hilo, Hawai‘i, early 1890s
Hilo Landing, Hilo, Hawai‘i, early 1890s
Paukaa-Lighthouse
Paukaa-Lighthouse
Paukaa_Lighthouse
Paukaa_Lighthouse
Paukaa_Lighthouse (LighthouseFriends)
Paukaa_Lighthouse (LighthouseFriends)
Paukaa Lighthouse (LighthouseFriends)
Paukaa Lighthouse (LighthouseFriends)
Hilo_Breakwater-(USACE)
Hilo_Breakwater-(USACE)
Hilo Bay-Paukaa Lighthouse-GoogleEarth
Hilo Bay-Paukaa Lighthouse-GoogleEarth

Filed Under: Place Names, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Paukaa, Paukaa Lighthouse, Hilo Landing, Hilo Wharf

January 4, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Pōhaku Lele

The Haʻi ʻolelo (oral history) of Waimea, according to Hawaiian historian Sam Kamakau (who was from Waialua, O‘ahu,) begins with the high chief Kamapuaʻa. Kamapuaʻa, according to traditional history, was given a gift from the Kahuna Nui (high priest) Kahiki‘ula.

The gift was all the lands that begin with the word Wai. The word Waimea means “sacred water.” Prior to the eleventh century, little is known about the kanaka (people) who lived in the ahupuaʻa of Waimea. The valley may have been settled a lot earlier. (pupukeawaimea)

“The Valley of the Priests,” gained its title around 1090, when the ruler of O‘ahu, Kamapuaʻa (who would later be elevated in legend to demigod status as the familiar pig deity) awarded the land to the high priest Lono-a-wohi.

From that time until Western contact and the overturn of the indigenous Hawaiian religion, the land belonged to the kahuna nui (high priests) of the Pa‘ao line. (Kennedy)

After Captain Cook was killed at Kealakekua Bay in 1779, Captain Charles Clerke took command of his ships, Resolution and Discovery. Searching to restock their water supply, they anchored off Waimea Bay in 1779. This was the first known contact of the white man on the island of Oʻahu.

Cook’s lieutenant, James King, who captained the Resolution, commented that the setting “… was as beautiful as any Island we have seen, and appear’d very well Cultivated and Popular.” (HJH)

King noted that the vista on this side of Oʻahu, “was by far the most beautiful country of any in the Group … the Valleys look’d exceedingly pleasant … charmed with the narrow border full of villages, & the Moderate hills that rose behind them.” (HJH)

Clerke wrote in his journal: “On landing I was reciev’d with every token of respect and friendship by a great number of the Natives who were collected upon the occasion; they every one of them prostrated themselves around me which is the first mark of respect at these Isles.” (Kennedy, OHA)

Clerke further noted, “I stood into a Bay to the W(est)ward of this point the Eastern Shore of which was far the most beautifull Country we have yet seen among these Isles, here was a fine expanse of Low Land bounteously cloath’d with Verdure, on which were situate many large Villages and extensive plantations; at the Water side it terminated in a fine sloping, sand Beach.”

“This Bay, its Geographical situation consider’d is by no means a bad Roadsted, being shelterd from the (winds) with a good depth of Water and a fine firm sandy Bottom, it lays on the NW side of this island of Wouahoo … surrounded by a fine pleasant fertile Country.” (HJH)

Kamehameha took the island of O‘ahu in 1795, and he gave Waimea Valley to Hewahewa, his Kahuna Nui. He was the last Kahuna to preside over the heiau (temples) in the valley. Hewahewa died in 1837 and is buried in Waimea Valley. (pupukeawaimea)

In 1826, Hiram Bingham, accompanied by Queen Kaʻahumanu, visited Waimea to preach the gospel and noted, “Saturday (we) reached Waimea … the residence of Hewahewa, the old high priest of Hawaiian superstition, by whom we were welcomed ….”

“The inhabitants of the place assembled with representatives of almost every district of this island, to hear of the great salvation, and to bow before Jehovah, the God of heaven.”

“There were now seen the queen of the group and her sister, and teachers, kindly recommending to her people the duties of Christianity, attention to schools, and a quiet submission, as good subjects, to the laws of the land.” (Bingham)

Reportedly, Waimea was a favored sandalwood source during the 1800s; cargo ships would anchor offshore to load sandalwood. However, by the 1830s, sandalwood was disappearing and soon the trade came to a halt.

From 1894 to 1898, a series of floods devastated the valley including homes and crops of approximately 1,000 native Hawaiians. In 1929, Castle & Cooke acquired the land and leased it to cattle ranchers.

In the 1950s, sand was trucked from Waimea Bay Beach to replenish eroding sand at Waikiki Beach. Reportedly, over 200,000-tons of sand at Waimea Bay was removed to fill beaches in Waikiki and elsewhere.

1884 maps note a ‘Table Rock,’ completely surrounded by sand near the water’s edge on the Haleiwa side of the bay. They say, before the sand excavation, if you would have tried to jump off that rock, you would have jumped about six feet down into the sand below. (Early photographs of the area illustrate that.)

Some reference it as Pōhaku Lele (literally, fly or jump rock – however, given the prior context of the beach, that doesn’t sound like a traditional name.)

Folks now tend to call it “Jump Rock;” when we were kids, we called it something else. There was a certain element with an attitude that also liked to jump off the rock – occasionally, they exerted pressure and precluded others from climbing on.

It’s on the west side of the bay. In summer, when there is no surf, it is a popular place for folks to stand around and eventually jump off (during the winter, the surf is too high to even think of going onto it.)

It’s about 25-feet high and the water is deep enough on the outer edge to cautiously jump. Most people look at this as a rock-jumping thrill.

What people may not know is that there is an underwater natural tunnel through the center of the rock that you can swim through. I did it … once.  No mask, no fins. With the blur of the salt water without a mask, you can only see light on the other side and that guides you through.

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Waimea_Bay-PP-61-2-021
Waimea_Bay-PP-61-2-021
Waimea Bay-PP-61-2-036
Waimea Bay-PP-61-2-036
Waimea Area-USGS-UH_Manoa-2616-1951-portion
Waimea Area-USGS-UH_Manoa-2616-1951-portion
Waimea Area-USGS-UH_Manoa-2317-1951-portion
Waimea Area-USGS-UH_Manoa-2317-1951-portion
Waimea Bay - Jump Rock
Waimea Bay – Jump Rock
Waimea Bay - Jump Rock
Waimea Bay – Jump Rock
Waimea Bay-white_water_big_waves-(seandavey)
Waimea Bay-white_water_big_waves-(seandavey)
Waimea_Rock_by_photoskate
Waimea_Rock_by_photoskate
Waimea_Bay-DAGS_1344-1884
Waimea_Bay-DAGS_1344-1884
Waimea_Bay-DAGS_1352-color-1884
Waimea_Bay-DAGS_1352-color-1884

Filed Under: General, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names, Economy Tagged With: Jump Rock, Table Rock, Hawaii, Oahu, Koolauloa, Waimea, Pohaku Lele

December 30, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kaiwiki Sugar Company

“Sugar is now the great interest of the islands. Christian missions and whaling have had their day, and now people talk sugar. Hawaii thrills to the news of a cent up or a cent down in the American market.”

“There are 200,000 acres of productive soil on the islands, of which only a fifteenth is under cultivation, and of this large area 150,000 is said to be specially adapted for sugar culture.”

“Herein is a prospective Utopia, and people are always dreaming of the sugar-growing capacities of the belt of rich disintegrated lava which slopes upwards from the sea to the bases of the mountains.” (Isabella Bird, 1872)

One such operation was Kaiwiki Sugar Company that began in the 1860s when the sugar industry was young and sugar production was more an individual effort than a corporate venture.

“Then there is the sugar plantation of Kaiwiki, with its patches of bright green cane, its flumes crossing the track above our heads, bringing the cane down from the upland cane-fields to the crushing-mill, and the shifting, busy scenes of the sugar-boiling season.”

“This is a most picturesque spot, the junction of two clear bright rivers, and a few native houses and a Chinaman’s store are grouped close by under some palms, with the customary loungers on horseback, asking and receiving nuhou, or news, at the doors.”

“There we met parties of natives, all flower-wreathed, talking and singing, coming gaily down on their sure— footed horses, saluting us with the invariable ‘Aloha.’”

“Every now and then we passed native churches, with spires painted white, or a native schoolhouse, or a group of scholars all ferns and flowers. The greenness of the vegetation merits the term ‘dazzling.’ We think England green, but its colour is poor and pale as compared with that of tropical Hawaii.”

“The unique beauty of this coast is what are called gulches – narrow deep ravines or gorges, from 100 to 2,000 feet in depth, each with a series of cascades from 10 to 1,800 feet in height.”

“I dislike reducing their glories to the baldness of figures, but the depth of these clefts (originally, probably, the seams caused by fire torrents), cut and worn by the fierce streams fed by the snows of Mauna Kea, and the rains of the forest belt, cannot otherwise be expressed.”

“The cascades are most truly beautiful, gleaming white among the dark depths of foliage far away, and falling into deep limpid basins, festooned and overhung with the richest and greenest vegetation of this prolific climate … Each gulch opens on a velvet lawn close to the sea, and most of them have space for a few grass houses, with cocoanut trees, bananas, and kalo patches. “

“There are sixty-nine of these extraordinary chasms within a distance of thirty miles! … The descent into some of them is quite alarming. You go down almost standing in your stirrups, at a right angle with the horse’s head, and up, grasping his mane to prevent the saddle slipping.” (Isabella Bird, 1872)

“The plantations … enjoy special advantages, for by turning some of the innumerable mountain streams into flumes the owners can bring a great part of their cane and all their wood for fuel down to the mills without other expense than the original cost of the woodwork.”

“Mr A has 100 mules, but the greater part of their work is ploughing and hauling the kegs of sugar down to the cove, where in favourable weather they are put on board of a schooner for Honolulu. This plantation employs 185 hands, native and Chinese, and turns out 600 tons of sugar a year.”

“I have made a second tour through the factory, and am rather disgusted with sugar making. ‘All’s well that ends well,’ however, and the delicate crystalline result makes one forget the initial stages of the manufacture.”

“The cane, stripped of its leaves, passes from the flumes under the rollers of the crushing-mill, where it is subjected to a pressure of five or six tons. One hundred pounds of cane under this process yield up from sixty-five to seventy-five pounds of juice.”

“This juice passes, as a pale green cataract, into a trough, which conducts it into a vat, where it is dosed with quicklime to neutralize its acid, and is then run off into large heated metal vessels. At this stage the smell is abominable, and the turbid fluid, with a thick scum upon it, is simply disgusting.”

“After a preliminary heating and skimming it is passed off into iron pans, several in a row, and boiled and skimmed, and ladled from one to the other till it reaches the last, which is nearest to the fire, and there it boils with the greatest violence, seething and foaming, bringing all the remaining scum to the surface.”

“After the concentration has proceeded far enough, the action of the heat is suspended, and the reddish-brown, oily-looking liquid is drawn into the vacuum-pan till it is about a third full; the concentration is completed by boiling the juice in vacuo at a temperature of 150 degrees, and even lower.”

“As the boiling proceeds, the sugar boiler tests the contents of the pan by withdrawing a few drops, and holding them up to the light on his finger; and, by certain minute changes in their condition, he judges when it is time to add an additional quantity.”

“When the pan is full, the contents have thickened into the consistency of thick gruel by the formation of minute crystals, and are then allowed to descend into an heater, where they are kept warm till they can be run into ‘forms’ or tanks, where they are allowed to granulate.”

“The liquid, or molasses, which remains after the first crystallization is returned to the vacuum pan and reboiled, and this reboiling of the drainings is repeated two or three times, with a gradually decreasing result in the quality and quantity of the sugar.”

“The last process, which is used for getting rid of the treacle, is a most beautiful one. The mass of sugar and treacle is put into what are called ‘centrifugal pans,’ which are drums about three feet in diameter and two feet high, which make about 1,000 revolutions a minute.”

“These have false interiors of wire gauze, and the mass is forced violently against their sides by centrifugal action, and they let the treacle whirl through, and retain the sugar crystals, which lie in a dry heap in the centre.”

“The cane is being flumed in with great rapidity, and the factory is working till late at night. The cane from which the juice has been expressed, called “trash,” is dried and used as fuel for the furnace which supplies the steam power. The sugar is packed in kegs, and a cooper and carpenter, as well as other mechanics, are employed.” (Isabella Bird, 1872)

After several acquisitions and changes in operation by it and other sugar plantations, in 1909, the defunct O‘okala Sugar Company (it was bankrupt and the controlling interest passed to Theo. H. Davies & C) was sold to Kaiwiki and it was renamed Kaiwiki Sugar Company.

O‘okala Sugar Company owned a total of 8,679 acres, its cane land was limited to 1,405 in fee simple and 3,005 acres of leased land. Located between the Hāmākua district and the rain-drenched lands of the Hilo district, the land rose to an elevation of 1,800 feet, with steep slopes and a frontage on the sea of about 4 ½ miles and a depth of 2 ½ miles.

Kaiwiki Sugar Company’s almost fifty years of existence ended when the company and neighboring Laupahoehoe Sugar Company merged on January 3, 1957. It should not be confused with Kaiwiki Milling Company.

Kaiwiki Milling Company was formed by 150 stockholders holders (all were Portuguese homesteaders) who built a mill near their properties just outside of Hilo.

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Ookala Sugar Mill-Malecek
Ookala Sugar Mill-Malecek

Filed Under: Place Names, Economy Tagged With: Ookala Sugar Company, Hawaii, Hilo, Hamakua, Kaiwiki Sugar Company

December 26, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Remembering, Through Street Names

People, places, events and times continue to live through various symbols found around us. One such reminder of the past can be found by the name on a street sign; they help us remember people and places of the past.

As an example, Waikiki is rich in history, pre-contact and modern – as George Kanahele once noted, “Waikīkī’s significance is as a place of history, not destination.”

Because Waikīkī is predominantly built-up, some may suggest that we are past our time and opportunity to share this past, and the stories they tell, with others.

While many of the sites and structures are gone, there are numerous reminders of Waikīkī’s and Hawai‘i’s past, even in this modern constructed environment.

Several Waikīkī streets remind us of Place Names and carry the names of the ʻili in Waikiki, as illustrated by:
• Kālia Road
• Helumoa Road
• Hamohamo Street
• Kāneloa Road
• Kapuni Street
• Pa‘ū Street & Pa‘ū Lane
• Uluniu Avenue

Waikīkī was Home to Hawaiʻi’s Ali‘i and Chiefs (street names call attention to these people:)
• Kalākaua Avenue (King David Kalākaua)
• Lili‘uokalani Avenue & Nohonani Street (Queen Lydia Liliʻuokalani and reference to Lili‘uokalani “sitting beautifully”)
• Kapiʻolani Boulevard (Queen Ester Kapiʻolani)
• Kūhiō Avenue (Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole Piʻikoi)
• Prince Edward Street (Prince Edward Abnel Keliʻiahonui Piʻikoi)
• Koa Avenue (Prince David (Koa) Kawānanakoa Piʻikoi)
• Kaʻiulani Avenue (Princess Victoria Kaʻiulani Cleghorn)
• Kapili Street (Princess Miriam Kapili Likelike – Sister of King Kalākaua & Queen Lili‘uokalani and mother of Princess Kaʻiulani)
• Pākī Avenue (Chief Abner Pākī – High Chief of Maui and father of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop)
• Kuamoʻo Street (Mary Kuamoʻo Ka‘oana‘eha – Niece of Kamehameha I and wife of John Young)
• Kalanimōku Street (Chief William Pitt Kalanimōku – Prime minister under King Kamehameha I, II & III)

Llikewise, some streets names remind us of the names of royal residences:)
• Ke‘alohilani Avenue (Queen Liliʻuokalani’s residence at Kūhiō Beach & earlier Kamehameha V’s beach home at Helumoa)
• Paoakalani Avenue (Queen Liliʻuokalani’s residence)

We are reminded of Prominent People through names of streets:
• Cartwright Road (Alexander Joy Cartwright Jr.; “The father of Modern Baseball”)
• Cleghorn Street (Archibald Scott Cleghorn – Father of Princess Kaʻiulani and Governor of O‘ahu)
• Duke’s Lane, Kahanamoku Street & Paoa Place (Duke Paoa Kahanamoku – Father of Modern and International Surfing; Olympic Gold medalist)
• Don Ho Lane (Don Ho – Entertainer)
• ‘Olohana Street (John Young – Advisor to Kamehameha I and Grandfather of Queen Emma)
• Keoniana Street (John Young II – also known as Keoni Ana ʻOpio) – Kuhina Nui under Kamehameha II and Minister of Foreign Affairs under Kamehameha IV)
• Makee Road (Captain James Makee – Scottish rancher and developer)
• McCully Street (Lawrence McCully – Associate Justice during the reign of Kalākaua)
• Tusitala Street (Robert Louis Stevenson- His Samoan name – writer)

Other People and Places are remembered in Waikiki Street names:
• Dudley Street (Battery Dudley at Fort DeRussy – General Edger S. Dudley)
• Dudoit Lane (Captain James Dudoit – French Consul, founder of Catholic Mission)
• ‘Ena Road (John ‘Ena – Member of Queen Lili‘uokalani’s staff)
• Hobron Lane (Captain Coit and Thomas Hobron – Property owners)
• Lemon Road (James Silas Lemon – French land developer)
• Lewers Street (Robert Lewers formed Lewers and Cooke, they supplied lumber for construction)
• Monsarrat Avenue (Judge James Melville Monsarrat – Advisor to the monarchy)
• Ala Wai Boulevard (Ala Wai Canal)
• Ala Moana Boulevard (Coastal trail then road)
• Royal Hawaiian Avenue (Royal Hawaiian Hotel)
• Seaside Avenue (Waikiki Seaside Hotel, which preceded the Royal Hawaiian Hotel)
• Saratoga Road (Saratoga Bathhouse)

Of course, it is not just Waikīkī street names that remind us of stories about people, places, events and times – look around you, the signs noting stories of history and remembering the past are everywhere.

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Kalakaua-Uluniu
Kalakaua-Uluniu
Kanekapolei-Kuhio
Kanekapolei-Kuhio
Kalakaua-Paoakalani
Kalakaua-Paoakalani
Don_Ho-Lewers
Don_Ho-Lewers
Uluniu-Koa
Uluniu-Koa

Filed Under: Place Names, Prominent People, General, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions Tagged With: Hawaii, Waikiki, Street Signs

December 23, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kūka‘ō‘ō Heiau

According to legends, the Menehune built a fort and a temple at the top of the hill ‘Ulumalu. They were driven away from their fort by the high chief Kuali‘i during his reign (sometime in the 1700s). Kuali‘i rebuilt it after his seizure of the fort. (Cultural Surveys)

This heiau was the center piece of a string of heiaus that strung across the Kona district. The existence of such an important heiau at the mouth of the valley could be taken as an indication of the early importance of Mānoa.

Because the plain that Honolulu proper is situated on tends to be a hot, dry environment, the Alii or Hawaiian Royalty of the early 1800s were known to use Mānoa as a retreat to get away from the hustle and bustle of the town’s dusty streets. (DeLeon)

Another legend says that the menehune were driven from their fort and temple by the owls, who became their bitter enemies.
The legends say that the fairy people, the Menehunes, built a temple and a fort a little farther up the valley above Pu‘u-pueo, at a place called Kukaoo.

Some people say that the owl-god and the fairies became enemies and waged bitter war against each other. At last the owl-god beat the drum of the owl clan and called the owl-gods from Kauai to give him aid.

With the aid of the Kaua‘i owls, there was a great battle and the “fort and temple” were captured; the menehune were driven out of the valley. (Cultural Surveys)

“(O)n a vast rock pile, still stands a walled enclosure known as the heiau of Kūka‘ō‘ō, now overgrown with lantana and night blooming cereus. This … temple dates back many hundred years. Its erection is credited to the Menehune’s … but was rebuilt during the reign of Kuali‘i, who wrested it from them after a hard fought battle.”

“The Menehune’s fort was on the rocky hill, Ulumalu, on the opposite side of the road, just above Kukaoo. Previous to the battle, they had control of all upper Manoa.”

“After Kūali‘i obtained possession, he made it the principal temple fort of a system of heiaus, extending from Mauoki, Puahia luna and lalo, Kumuohia, Kaualaa, Wailele, and one or two other points between Kaualaa and Kukaoo.”

“There were also several Muas in the system they controlled — sacred picketed trench enclosures, and altogether, the scene must have been one of priest-ridden despotism.”

“Kūka‘ō‘ō heiau and hill is connected also, in legend, with that of Punahou Spring, as the place where the twin brother and sister Kauawaahila and Kauakuahine obtained temporary shelter from the persecutions of a cruel step-mother, as shown in the following extract.”

“The children went to the head of Mānoa valley, but were driven away and told to return to Ka‘ala, but they ran and hid themselves in a small cave on the side of the hill of Kūka‘ō‘ō, whose top is crowned by the temple of the Menehunes.”

“Here they lived some time and cultivated a patch of potatoes, their food meanwhile being grass-hoppers and greens. The latter were the tender shoots of the popolo, aheahea, pakai, laulele and potato vines, cooked by rolling hot stones around among them in a covered gourd.”

“When the potatoes were fit to be eaten, the brother made a double imu, or oven, having a kapu, or sacred, side for his food and a noa, or free, side for his sister.”

“The little cave was also divided in two, a sacred and a free part for brother and sister. The cave, with its wall of stone dividing it in two was still intact a few years ago, and the double imu was also to be seen.” (Thrum)

The heiau is mentioned in Land Commission records as “LCA 3906 to K. Neki, Heiau of Kūkaō‘ō, fence; house in”. “I, Neki hereby state my claims /at/ the land fence, mauka in Manoa, at the heiau of Kukaoo on the side below the heiau.”

“These two fences of which I tell you were from my makuas – they expended a great deal of revenue in making these fences, and I also did, and they are mine at this time – no one else has a right to them. That is my explanation to you. I am, with thanks. Neki” (Cultural Surveys)

The heiau has been restored and is part of the Mānoa Heritage Center, a non-profit organization whose mission is to promote stewardship of the natural and cultural heritage of Hawai‘i. The site consists of Kūka‘ō‘ō Heiau, a Native Hawaiian garden and Kūali‘i, a Tudor-style house, built in 1911.

Currently, Kūka‘ō‘ō Heiau and garden tours are available, guided by volunteer docents ($7 per adult.) Reservations are needed with two-week advance notice preferred.  It was created through the efforts of Sam and Mary Cooke.

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Manoa Heritage Center map
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Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Waikiki, Manoa, Kukaoo Heiau

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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