Place Names | Page 104 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

October 19, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waikīkī Beach Agreements

Waikīkī Beach was eroding.

As early as 1901, both the government surveyor and Lili‘uokalani had residences at Waikīkī Beach with walls across their seaward frontages that were in the ocean, blocking public passage along the beach.

Another Waikīkī residence and the Moana Hotel also had portions of their structures similarly situated in the water. By the late-1920s, walls were common along Waikīkī Beach.

A 1927 report by the Engineering Association of Hawai‘i pinpointed seawalls as the primary cause of erosion in Waikīkī. The report concluded that beach nourishment and groins could be used to rebuild the beach.

During the same time period, plans were underway to turn Waikīkī district wetlands into an urban community. The Ala Wai Canal was dredged from 1922 to 1928.

In 1927, the Territorial Legislature authorized Act 273 allowing the Board of Harbor Commissioners to rebuild the eroded beach at Waikīkī. By 1930, the Board of Harbor Commissioners reported on construction progress, which included 11 groins along a portion of the shoreline.

On October 19, 1928, property owners at Waikīkī signed the Waikīkī Beach Reclamation Agreement between the Territory of Hawai‘i and Property Owners – an agreement with the Territory of Hawai‘i to not build any obstructions on what would become Waikīkī Beach.

The agreement was to “forever thereafter keep the beach free and clear of obstructions and open for the use of the public as a bathing beach and for passing over and along the same on foot.”

The Beach Agreement illustrated the need to control and limit seaward development on Waikīkī Beach. The agreement establishes limitations on construction along the beach in response to the proliferation of seawalls and groins in Waikīkī.

The 1928 agreement consists of a) the October 19, 1928 main agreement between the Territory and Waikīkī landowners, b) the October 19, 1928 main agreement between the Territory and the Estate of Bernice Pauahi Bishop and c) The July 5, 1929 Supplemental Agreement between the Territory and Waikīkī landowners.

The agreement provides that the Territory was to use “best efforts” to construct beach area 180-feet seaward for the purpose of beach erosion control together with “maintenance, preservation and restoration thereof as may be necessary from time to time.”

The expanded beach would “be deemed to be natural accretion attached to the abutting property, and title there to shall immediately vest in the owner or owners of the property abutting thereon in proportion to their sea-frontage, subject only to the easement in favor of the public as above stated.”

The private landowners agreed they “will not erect or place on any part of such beach so to be constructed as aforesaid within seventy-five (75) feet of mean highwater mark of such beach as it may exist from time to time …”

“… any building, fence, wall or other structure or obstruction of any kind unless such mean highwater mark shall be more than seventy-five (75) feet from the present line of mean highwater mark.”

The agreement covers the Waikīkī beach area including the area from the Ala Wai Canal to the Elks Club at Diamond Head. The Waikīkī Beach Reclamation Agreement of 1928 gave property owners title to beach fronting their seawalls.

According to the 1928 Waikīkī Beach Reclamation Agreement, no commercial activities are permitted to take place on Waikīkī Beach. All commercial activities originate from private property and people traverse the beach to gain access to the water.

As part of the 1928 Beach Agreement, eleven groins composed of hollow tongue and concrete blocks were built along Waikīkī Beach with the intent of capturing sand. (SOEST)

A lot of the sand to build the beach was brought in to Waikīkī Beach, via ship and barge, from Manhattan Beach, California in the 1920s and 1930s.

As the Manhattan Beach community was developing, it found that excess sand in the beach dunes and it was getting in the way of development there. At the same time, folks in Hawai‘i were in need for sand to cover the rock and coral beach at Waikīkī.

In addition, the segment between the Royal Hawaiian Hotel and the Moana Surfrider (Surfrider-Royal Hawaiian Sector Beach Agreement) is the subject of a separate agreement between the Territory and the subject Waikīkī landowners entered into on May 28, 1965.

State law states that the right of access to Hawai‘i’s shorelines includes the right of transit along the shorelines. (HRS §115-4)

The right of transit along the shoreline exists below (seaward of) the private property line (generally referred to as the “upper reaches of the wash of waves, usually evidenced by the edge of vegetation or by the debris left by the wash of waves.”) (HRS §115-5)

Waikīkī Beach is unique because the State does not own all of the land in front of the Royal Hawaiian, Outrigger Waikīkī and Moana Surfrider hotels.

The 1965 agreement between the State and the hotel landowners gave the owners of the abutting hotels 75-feet of the beach in exchange for cooperation with the State’s proposal to extend Waikīkī Beach up to 120 feet from the existing shoreline.

The abutting private beach land is subject to a 75-foot public right of way for the public to pass along the Beach, sunbathe or do other beach activities. The easement in favor of the public restricts commercial activities in the right-of way.

According to the agreement, the State is responsible for maintaining and policing the easement. This easement would be extinguished upon the State building 75-feet of beach seaward of the existing beach, but since that has never happened, the easement remains in effect. (DLNR)

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Waikiki-Moana_Hotel-1920

Waikiki-fronting_old-Seaside_Hotel-seawall-1915

Royal_Hawaiian-rice-taro-duck_ponds-in-background-1929

Royal_Hawaiian_Hotel-Aerial-December 5, 1928

Moana_Hotel-Aerial-1929

Royal_Hawaiian_oceanside_construction-(HSA-HHF)-1926

Seaside_Hotel-noted-(Moana_Hotel-Apuakehau_Stream-marshland_behind)-1920

Waikiki_Beach_Houses_(UH_Manoa)-1924

Natatorium-1928

Honolulu_and_Vicinity-(portion)-(UH_Manoa-Hamilton_Library)-1923

USGS_Map-Waikiki-1927

October 15, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

David Malo’s Grave

In 1823, Malo moved to Lāhainā, Maui where he learned to read and write. Malo soon converted to Christianity and was given the baptismal name of David.

On September 5, 1831, classes at the Mission Seminary at Lahainaluna (later known as Lahainaluna (Upper Lāhainā)) began in thatched huts with 25 Hawaiian young men.

Under the leadership of Reverend Lorrin Andrews, the school was established by the American Board of Commissioners of Foreign Missions “to instruct young men of piety and promising talents”. It is the oldest high school west of the Mississippi River.

When Sheldon Dibble arrived to Hawai‘i in 1836, “connected with the Mission Seminary at Lahainaluna, and being called to teach History as one branch of my department of instruction”.

He had found it “quite objectionable that the scholars, whilst they were becoming acquainted with other nations, should remain to a great degree in ignorance of their own.”

Dibble made an “effort to collect the main facts of Hawaiian history,” he “selected ten of the best scholars of the Seminary, and formed them into a class of inquiry.”

Dibble “requested them to go individually and separately to the oldest and most knowing of the chiefs and people, gain all the information that they could on the question given out, commit each his information to writing and be ready to read it on a day and hour appointed.” (Dibble, April 28, 1843) One of the leading students was Malo.

“(David) Malo was the son of Aoao and his wife Heone, and was born at the seaside town of Keauhou, North Kona, Hawaii, not many miles distant from the historic bay of Kealakeakua, where Captain Cook, only a few years before, had come to his death.”

“The exact year of his birth cannot be fixt’d, but it was about 1793, the period of Vancouver’s second visit to the islands. … During his early life Malo was connected with the high chief Kuakini (Governor Adams), who was a brother of Queen Kaahumanu …”

“… and it was during this period specially that he was placed in an environment the most favorable to forming an intimate acquaintance with the history, traditions, legends and myths of old Hawaii, as well as with the meles, pules and olis that belong to the hula and that form so important and prominent a feature in the poesy and unwritten literature of Hawaii.”

“Such good use did Malo make of his opportunities that he came to be universally regarded as the great authority and repository of Hawaiian lore.” (NB Emerson)

Malo was ordained into the Christian ministry and settled down in the seaside village of Kalepolepo on East Maui. (Trinity) His book, Hawaiian antiquities (Moolelo Hawaii – 1898,) addressed the genealogies, traditions and beliefs of the people of Hawai‘i.

In the “Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition,” Admiral Wilkes (1840,) commenting on books about Hawai‘i, said, “(s)ome of them are by native authors. Of these I cannot pass at least one without naming him.”

“This is David Malo, who is highly esteemed by all who know him, and who lends the missionaries his aid, in mind as well as example, in ameliorating the condition of his people and checking licentiousness.”

“(A)s Malo aged, and perhaps because he spent so much time pondering the old traditions in writing Hawaiian Antiquities or wading through Lahaina’s crowds of seamen on leave, he became increasingly exasperated with the rising tide of haoles as the Hawaiians died and kept on dying.”

“In a letter to native friends, he wrote: If a big wave comes in, large and unfamiliar fishes will come from the dark ocean, and when they see the small fishes of the shallows they will eat them up.”

“The white man’s ships have arrived with clever men from the big countries. They know our people are few in number and our country is small, they will devour us.” (Malo; Vowel)

Malo died October 21, 1853. “The death of the well-known native preacher, David Malo, is one of those events which throw sorrow upon the hearts of the friends of the native race.”

“Seeing a white object on the very summit of Mt. Ball (a hill above Lahainaluna School), a day or two since, I inquired what it was.”

“It was David Malo’s tomb. And why was he buried in so strange spot? He wished it. He said this land would fall into the possession of foreigners.”

“Land in Lahaina would be valuable. The graveyards, enriched by the remains of the natives, would be coveted, and the contents of the graves scattered abroad.”

“He wished not his bones to be disturbed. Let him be buried on that summit where no white man will ever build his house.”

“And so his grave has become beacon; and if his spirit ever lingers over it, he can survey, as from lofty watch-tower, his former home, and the scene of many of his labors.” (Sereno Bishop; The Friend, November 16, 1853)

Malo’s grave is on Pu‘u Pa‘upa‘u (sometimes called Mt Ball) – that is the hill above Lahaina with the ‘L’ (standing for Lahainaluna, the school that Malo attended).

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David Malo grave

October 13, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Moʻomomi

Kaumaha i ka naulu Kaluakoi.
Laden with the summer showers is Kaluakoi.
(Kaluakoi gets rain only in the summer time.) (McElroy)

Kaluakoʻi is the largest ahupuaʻa, or land division, on the island of Molokai. With regard to ahupuaʻa, Lyons asserts that, “in populous portions the sub-division was very minute” (1875.)

Consequently, the size of the Kaluakoʻi ahupuaʻa would suggest a small population for this part of Molokai, a situation borne out by the archaeological record.

The ahupuaʻa of Kaluakoʻi literally means, the “the adze pit.” In this ahupuaʻa, high quality basalt was used to make adzes and other tools. It is well known that lithic quarries occurred on select sites in the area, notably on the summit of Maunaloa at ʻAmikopala, and on northwest Molokai at Moʻomomi and ʻIlio Point. (McElroy)

West Molokai is roughly two million years old and its long dormancy has allowed a deep lateritic soil to develop that covers most of the region. “The Desert Strip,” was coined by Chester Wentworth, who described this extensive dune system as a “barren windswept country in which eolian features are developed with exceptional clarity and vigor”.

The dominant northeast trade winds have blown sand from Moʻomomi almost completely across the northwest corner of the island creating an expansive stretch of sand dunes. The Hawaiians called this same area Keonelele, or “the flying sand.”

The main part of the Moʻomomi Dunes probably was formed during the latest ice age, when sea level was low and the reefs now submerged offshore were dry and feeding sand into the wind. Since then, slightly acidic rain has cemented some of the sand into hard limestone. (McElroy)

A recent study found that 40% of Molokai families’ food came from subsistence activities. The Hoʻolehua Hawaiian Homestead community on Molokai relies heavily for subsistence on the inshore marine resources of the Moʻomomi fishery, which falls within a twelve-mile stretch of coastline along Molokai’s north shore. (Kohala Center)

Coastal fisheries are facing severe depletion and overexploitation on a global scale and Hawai‘i is no exception.

Hui Malama o Moʻomomi cares for the land and nearshore waters along the Moʻomomi Coast on the island of Molokai. Protection of this place is to assure a reliable food source; as the community is very much subsistence-based, the ocean is their “ice box.”

Co-founder of the Hui Malama o Moʻomomi, Mac Poepoe, led the way toward educating others about the coastal resources found in Moʻomomi Bay and pono (proper) behaviors that ensure not only familial but community subsistence.

Poepoe established Hui Mālama o Moʻomomi in 1993 in order to teach younger generations the ancient practices of traditional Hawaiian fishing and how to become responsible marine citizens.

It is a local marine subsistence/sustainability grassroots organization, assisting with management on the state’s Hawaiian Homelands. The Hui oversees marine subsistence gathering and sustainability practices.

Important management lessons to learn from this are to recognize natural rhythms, do not disturb basic renewal processes, monitor (moon, season, habitat, etc) and understand the resource. As a foundation to this, we need to recognize the interconnected link between the land and the ocean.

Community-based management in the Mo‘omomi area involves observational processes and problem-solving strategies for the purpose of conservation. The system is not articulated in the manner of Western science, but relies instead on mental models.

These models foster a practical understanding of local inshore resource dynamics by the fishing community and, thus, lend credibility to unwritten standards for fishing conduct. The “code of conduct” is concerned with how people fish rather than how much they catch. (Poepoe)

Through Poepoe’s efforts, almost single-handedly, they rejuvenated Moʻomomi Beach by controlling erosion, reintroduced native plants and monitored fish populations. The beach is now rich with vegetation, and the moi are as big as small-kid time. (Cooke)

A code of conduct on appropriate behavior was designed to be true to Hawaiian values, to consider the community’s culture and be biologically sound for resource sustainability.
• Rule 1 – Take only what you need. Share your catch with others.
• Rule 2 – Reserve inshore areas for children and novice swimmers and fishermen.
• Rule 3 – Education. Utilize traditional practices and science-based methods.
• Rule 4 – Community governing board.
• Rule 5 – Malama. Care for the land; care for the people; care for all things; understand the land with the ocean.

Community members are joining with state officials to develop a designation for Molokai’s north shoreline that would sustainably support marine resources, protect traditional fishing practices, prohibit commercial harvest and facilitate community involvement in resource management decisions. (Molokai Dispatch)

The group is looking to organize a Community-based Subsistence Fishing Area along the Northwest Coast of Molokai, including Moʻomomi.

Nearby land-based management is underway through The Nature Conservancy (TNC.) Mo‘omomi Preserve was established in June of 1988 to protect the most intact coastal sand dune ecosystem in the main Hawaiian Islands.

The westernmost coastline of the preserve is characterized by sea cliffs; the remainder of the two‐mile long coastline consists of windswept sand beaches, and dunes.

The upper dune area of the preserve is known as Keonelele, “the flying sands”. Portions of the preserve dunes are lithified (sand dunes that become solidified) and are distinct in geological appearance and native strand. (TNC)

Moʻomomi is a nesting location for wedge-tailed shearwater seabirds, or ʻuaʻu kani in Hawaiian. TNC is taking an active role in protecting these ground-nesting birds from feral cats and dogs, as well as promoting scientific study.

Moʻomomi is a breeding and nesting area for the Hawaiian green sea turtle, or honu in Hawaiian, and they are actively monitored by TNC staff and volunteers. It is believed that the females return to lay eggs on the same beach where she was hatched and may live as long as 100 years, though its life span is not known for sure. (McElroy)

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Moomomi-Rogers

Hui_Malama_o_Mo’omomi_by_MolokaiPhotography

moomomi-beach

Cave at Moomomi Preserve, Molokai

Moomomi TickleMePick

Kawa’aloa Beach Mo’omomi Moloka’i-kyle

Moomomi_Dunes-TickleMePick

Moomomi_TickleMePick

Moomomi

Moomomi-TickleMePick

Land_Office_Map_of_the_Island_of_Molokai,_Hawaii_-_Geographicus_-_1897-portion-Kaluakoi-W_Molokai

1897_Land_Office_Map_of_the_Island_of_Molokai,_Hawaii_-_Geographicus_-_1897

October 11, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Silk

“Kōloa is, and always has been, a delightful place, with a natural situation that has made it a most charming spot. The line of hills against the skyline is broken only by the gap on the way to Lihue.”

“These hills, while protecting the lowlands from the trade winds that blow across the island, attract enough rain clouds to insure the water supply.”

“There are several interesting volcanic cones, three of which, at least, have a close connection with Kōloa’s past. On the slopes of Puu o Hewa, the hill on the Lawai side of the road to Līhu‘e, may be seen the marks of an ancient holua slide.”

“On the other side of the road almost opposite Puu o Hewa are two companion hills known as Mauna Kilika (apparently Kahoano and Kumanumanu). The name is all that survives of an attempt to cultivate silk on this site nearly a century ago.” (Judd)

“A number of attempts have been made to establish a silk industry in Hawaii at intervals … when the first mulberry plantings were made on the Island of Kauai.”

“The silkworm is a temperate-zone insect and although it can be successfully reared in the warmer portions of the islands, the cultivation is only uniformly successful in the cooler zone above 2,000 feet where climatic conditions approach those of more northern countries.”

“The food of the silkworm, the mulberry, thrives from sea level up to 4,000 feet. The experiment station has introduced and is propagating varieties of mulberries which are considered the best for silk production.” (Philippine Agricultural Review, 1908)

In 1835, Ladd & Company, secured tenancy rights to a tract of land near Kōloa on Kauai for silk and sugar culture. (Cultural Surveys)

“The success of Ladd & Co. drew other white men with independent capital to Kōloa to try their own efforts at making a profit in agriculture. The most ambitious attempt was made by Charles Titcomb and Sherman Peck.”

“In 1836 they leased about 300 acres from Ladd & Co. and proceeded to experiment in silk culture. Later they were joined by James Jackson Jarves and JFB Marshall, two men well-known in Hawaiian history.”

“The partners were all young, energetic men determined to spare no money or effort to make the enterprise a success. They planted thousands of mulberry trees, both native and foreign varieties, to be sure of a continuous supply of leaves as food for the silk worms, which were imported from China and America.”

“The mulberry trees were planted in rows ten feet apart and two feet separate in the row. It was found that the trees after being plucked took but a short six weeks to leaf out again so completely that they could not be told from the ones that had not been stripped.” (Judd)

Sereno Bishop wrote, that at the age of eleven, in 1838, he visited the home of Rev. PJ Gulick at Kōloa, Kauai, where he saw silkworms fed and silk reeled in Mr. Gulick’s own house.”

“At the same time. Mr. Titcomb had a considerable plantation of mulberry-trees in the vicinity, and was breeding silkworms and reeling silk on considerable scale. The missionary, Gulick, certainly favored the undertaking.”

“Mr. Hooper was at the same time conducting a small sugar plantation at the same place; and much was said about the immense advantage it was to the natives to be able to earn twelve and half cents a day by their labor, as they could do nowhere else in the Islands except in the sea-ports.” (SE Bishop; The Friend, July 1903)

“Mr. Peck spent the winter of 1838-39 in New England to learn more about the silk business. He also bought machinery for reeling by steam and engaged ‘a family of three persons’ to superintend the cocooneries and to teach the natives to reel silk.”

“At this time, because of the mild climate at Kōloa and the cheapness of labor and buildings, the outlook was so favorable that Mr. Peck could have sold the business at a two hundred per cent profit.”

“The preliminary experimentation had been so promising that ultimate success seemed certain. Another company was formed in 1839, by John Stetson who had as his associates Asa Rogers and James Lindsey. These men made an agreement with Ladd & Co. for a sub-lease of 150 acres bounded on the south by Waihohonu stream.”

“The next year, 1840, was expected to be a banner year and to show profits which would fully pay for the investments made.”

“But it proved otherwise. An extreme drought followed by continued high winds killed the mulberry trees. A heavy financial loss resulted. This reverse on top of previous set-backs was too much for Peck and Company, who had over-expanded.”

“Mr. Peck left for Lahaina in 1841, to enter business there. After five years of success, he went to the United States but returned to Hawaii in 1859 as senior partner of C. Brewer & Company.”

“Mr. Titcomb stayed on at Kōloa, for a number of months and did not abandon his efforts until his entire crop of silkworms was lost by a disease aggravated by wet weather.”

“He then moved to Hanalei, where he had been conducting experiments for some time. Later, after losing several thousand dollars, in the enterprise, he turned his attention to growing coffee. Stetson and Company continued at Kōloa, until the end of 1842 when they, also, were forced to admit failure.” (Judd)

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Silkworms and their favorite food, mulberry leaves

October 7, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

He‘eia Combat Training Area

The ahupuaʻa of Heʻeia (as well as Kāneʻohe) includes portions of Mōkapu Peninsula. (Heʻeia runs from the mountains to the sea, but also crosses over a portion of the water in Kāneʻohe Bay and includes a portion of a Mōkapu peninsula across the Bay.) Heʻeia also includes Moku o Loʻe (Coconut Island).

The name of the land of Heʻeia is traditionally associated with Heʻeia, the handsome foster son of the goddess Haumea and grandson of the demigod ʻOlopana, who was an uncle of Kamapuaʻa.

Heʻeia was named in commemoration of a tsunami-type wave that washed Haumea and others into the sea – a great tidal wave that “washed (he‘e ‘ia) … out to sea and back” (Lit., surfed, or washed (out to sea,) or swept away.) (Devaney)

Kalo (taro) was a main staple in the diet of nearly all Hawaiians prior to European contact and was extensively cultivated. As early as 1789, Portlock described this area:

“… the bay all around has a very beautiful appearance, the low land and valleys being in high state of cultivation, and crowded with plantations of taro, sweet potatoes, sugar-cane, etc. interspersed with a great number of coconut trees ….” The region had a considerable amount of land cultivated in taro up through the early-1800s.

“Southeastward along the windward coast, beginning with Waikāne and continuing through Waiāhole, Kaʻalaea, Kahaluʻu, Heʻeia and Kāne’ohe, were broad valley bottoms and flatlands between the mountains and the sea which, taken all together, represent the most extensive wet-taro area on Oʻahu.” (Handy, Devaney)

The earliest of the modern large commercial agricultural ventures started with the cultivation of sugar cane in Kualoa in the 1860s. By 1880, three more sugar companies had emerged in Kahaluʻu, Heʻeia and Kāne’ohe. Heʻeia Sugar Company (also called Heʻeia Agricultural Co. Ltd) operated from 1878 to 1903.

In 1880, the region reported 7,000-acres available for cultivation; in 1883 a railroad was installed at Heʻeia, and by the summer of that year it was noted that the railroad had allowed a much greater amount of land to be harvested, even allowing cane from Kāneʻohe to be ground at Heʻeia; however, the commercial cultivation of sugar cane was short-lived. (Devaney)

The US military first established a presence on the Mōkapu peninsula in 1918 when President Woodrow Wilson signed an executive order establishing Fort Kuwaʻaohe Military Reservation (the western portion of Mōkapu is within the Heʻeia ahupuaʻa.)

Today, Marine Corps Base Hawaiʻi continues to serve as a fully functional operational and training base for US Marine Corps forces. The Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS) here operates a 7,800-foot runway (on the ahupuaʻa of Heʻeia) that can accommodate both fixed wing and rotor-driven aircraft.

With World War II underway, an encampment supporting as many as 4,500 enlisted personnel and officers comprising up to four infantry battalions with attached units of the 98th Regimental Combat Team was constructed in October 1943 at He‘eia Kea.

The He‘eia Combat Training Area was on leased or licensed land from the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Estate, Sing Chong Company, Ltd., and numerous other smaller private land owners.

Training facilities established at He‘eia Combat Training Area included a 12-target (1,000-inch) machine gun range; an 11-target pistol range; and a 20-target (100-200-300 yard) known distance rifle range.

In addition, there were two obstacle courses; a bayonet course; dummy hand grenade courts; a live hand grenade range; an infiltration course; a shipside platform and maneuver and impact areas for jungle and assault training with the remainder of training facilities being situated at He‘eia Kea.

The impact area purportedly was established for the firing of field artillery pieces, mortar, bazooka, and other assault weapons using live and practice rounds.

Site improvements included barracks, roads, a mess hall, an open-air theater, a motor pool, ammunition storage facilities, training areas and obstacle and bayonet courses. Nearby were maneuver and impact areas for jungle and assault training.

Following the ending of hostilities on September 2, 1945, the end of WWII, the camp was dismantled, and land leases were terminated by the Army after October 8, 1945.

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Camp Heeia 98th Infantry Division Bennett-1944

Camp Heeia Bennett-1944