Place Names | Page 104 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

January 25, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Sky Ranch

It’s not clear when it opened, but in the 1940s and ‘50s, there is clear evidence of the “Kailua Airport” on the Windward side of O‘ahu, reportedly, privately-owned and operated by Bob Whittinghill.

When work was started in 1948 on the new airport in Kailua-Kona, to avoid confusion with the Kailua Airport on Oʻahu, the Big Island’s airport was named “Kona Airport.”

In 1954 it was “enlarged and improved to handle an expected resurgence of prospective fliers. (T)he airport is prepared to offer flying lessons under a complete ‘pay-as-you-fly’ program.” (Advertiser, May 23, 1954)

It was generally referred to as ‘Sky Ranch’ and “was a grass field in Kailua, windward side of Oahu. It was located parallel to the southern fence of Kaneohe Marine Base, near the Mōkapu gate to the base, and west of Mōkapu Boulevard.”

“The runway was where the east/west portion of ‘Aikahi Loop is now. It would have appeared in any sectional published pre-1960. It had a 200′ asphalt strip & about 1,800′ of grass, and power lines at the East end, along Mōkapu Blvd.”

“There was a large Quonset hut as a hangar, shop combination, and a small raised house that served as the office & bathroom. There was a gasoline-powered pump & 3,500 gallon tank of 80/87 avgas.”

“The field was operated by Robert Whittinghill, who was an instructor at the state aircraft mechanic school at Honolulu Airport.” (Hurd; Freeman)

“One man who’s licked the commuting problem over the Pali is Bob King of Kailua who lives a block away from the Kailua Sky Ranch landing strip and works at Honolulu airport. He usually flies to work.”

“It takes him an average of seven minutes over the Pali, about 16 minutes by way of Koko head. He claims flying is six time safer that driving a car, 12 times safer than driving across the Pali.” (Krauss, March 2, 1959)

Besides recreational and commuter flying, there were other aviation activities there. “(N)ews has arrived from Hawaii of the formation of the Hawaii Soaring Club with Woody Brown as President.”

“Plans call for the operation of Pratt-Reads from Kailua Sky Ranch on Oahu with Kipapa Field as a secondary base of operations. We are glad to hear these beautiful islands which have in the past been the site of some interesting soaring flights will once again be the scene of soaring activity.” (Soaring, Jan-Feb, 1959)

Likewise, “Parachuting is rapidly becoming a very popular sport. Quite ordinary young men – and women – are jumping from aircraft every weekend all over the United States, including Hawaii.”

The Aloha Sky Divers “meets every Sunday at the Kailua Sky Ranch, a short walk from the Pali Palms. Its members, floating down under colored canopies, have become a familiar sight in these parts.” Star Bulletin, July 14, 1961)

In addition, “Oahu’s only Air Scout squadron has been launched at Kailua Sky ranch, where a model plane meet is scheduled. … a clubhouse with work shop has been made available for both the Boy Scouts and the model plane enthusiast of Windward Oahu.”

“Bob Whittinghill is adviser for the aero squadron, composed of Boy Scouts 14 and over … the model plane meet set for today is the third held by Kailua Sky ranch. The two earlier meets drew about 1,000 persons at each event”. (Advertiser, May 24, 1954)

“Robert Whittinghill (leased) Kailua Sky Ranch from Kaneohe Ranch Company on a short-notice basis.” (Star-Bulletin, October 29, 1956) While pressure was building to keep the air field for recreational flights, ultimately, pressure for residential home development overcame that.

“About 15 planes will leave this weekend on a final, nostalgic flight from the Kailua Sky Ranch, Oahu’s only remaining private airport for light planes.”

“The planes will head for temporary quarters at busy Honolulu Airport as bulldozers move in to plow the Sky Ranch airstrip for a housing subdivision.” (Star-Bulletin, July 20, 1961)

“‘Aikahi Park, a prestige home development designed for families growing in stature and size, is being opened this Labor Day weekend by Centex-Trousdale.” (Prices ranged from $25,050 to $27,350, “on low rent Kaneohe Ranch Co 55-year leasehold land.”)

“Homes in the park have been designed by Vladimir Ossipoff, FAIA, who has won many architectural awards for local residences. They are in Hawaiian styles with three and four bedrooms, the latter containing fireplaces.” (Star-Bulletin, September 2, 1962)

Whittinghill also ran (since 1947) the Aero-Tech Division of Honolulu Technical School, a State education arm for training aviation mechanics, situated in a hanger at Honolulu International Airport. (Advertiser, September 18, 1963)

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Kailua-Mokapu-Aerial-(4290)-1963-(mass_grading_Aikahi_Park_takes_out_the_Kailua-Airfield)

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January 24, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Lanihau

“I started looking for property in Kona in 1921 when I graduated from Yale [University] and I think between then and 1932, why, I must have seen every beach property from Milolii to Kawaihae, no matter how you got to it–by air or by sea or by boat or by donkey or by mule or on foot.”

“And I finally decided on [William] Doc Hill’s place down at Keauhou as being the ideal spot that I wanted to live in but through a long combination of funny circumstances, why, I didn’t get it.”

“I’d inquired about this place from Mr. Childs who was then local head of American Factors. He said, ‘Oh hell, that property’s so tied up with owners you never could clear title.’”

“‘Well,’ I said, ‘you live here’ – and he was a big shot of the community at the time. ‘Tell you what I’ll do. If you can clear the titles, I’ll put up the money and we’ll subdivide the thing into large pieces and go fifty-fifty on it.’ And he said, ‘Well, that’s fair enough. That doesn’t cost me anything.’”

“So I waited seven years and nothing happened. Then I happened to meet an old-timer from up here who’d been in the tax office and knew land problems–who my father helped to keep out of jail–and he was very fond of the Thurstons.”

“So I said, ‘Who owns that property next to Factors?’ ‘Oh,’ he said, ‘that belongs to so-and-so and so-and-so. You want to buy it?’ I said, ‘Well, I don’t know whether I can afford it or not.’ ‘Well,’ he said, ‘the girl right at this moment needs money badly, I know, and I’m quite sure she would sell.’”

“So, this was four in the afternoon and at 9:30 the next morning I got a call and he said, ‘If you’ll have so much money available by eleven o’clock, I can buy her half-interest in thirty-eight acres.’”

“So I said, ‘Well, I don’t know where I’m going to get the money but I’ll have it.’ I did. Five years later, for five times as much, I bought the other half. So that brings us up to about 1938 and going into 1939.”

“An old kahuna who lived down at Kahaluu – I can’t remember his name at the moment but it’ll come to me – through his grandson who worked for [Theo. H.] Davies and Company, said that his grandfather wanted to come see me.”

“His grandfather had known my great-grandfather as a little boy and his great-grandfather was, at that time, in his late nineties and Asa [Thurston] died when he was well along in the eighties, so there is quite a span there. So I said I’d be delighted.”

“So the old man came over and his grandfather … he was ashamed to speak English so he spoke in Hawaiian and I spoke English. I could understand him and he could understand me. So he said, ‘I would like to know what Mr. Thurston’s plans are for the development of this property,’ which was translated duly.”

“And I replied and gave him a general idea of what I was trying to accomplish here. We’d planted quite a few trees at that time.
So the old man sat here for quite a long time and just nodded his head; and then he started in talking Hawaiian very rapidly and he talked for about ten minutes without taking a breath.”

“So the old man thanked me with tears in his eyes and we talked a little bit about his remembering my grandfather. He was a young man at the time. And he died, oh, within two or three months after that down at Kailua.”

“The name of this place is Lanihau. L-A-N-I-H-A-U. There’s Lanihau-nui which is next door and this is Lanihau-iki, meaning little Lanihau, and Lanihau-nui is back of it [and means large or great Lanihau]. That belongs to the Greenwells.”

“The name puzzled me. Lani means heavenly; beauty. Hau–H-A-U–is normally the tree from which they make the Hawaiian outriggers or the amas [float for canoe outrigger] or ‘iako [canoe outrigger]. H-A-0 is iron or steel or very strong.”

“So I submitted this to John Lane, who was then alive, and Mary Pukui, who’s still alive, and Reverend Henry Judd and two others … and asked them what this name meant, because many times Hawaiian meanings were hidden.”

“They asked a great many questions about the place. Was it on a point? Yes. You had a beautiful view up and down the coast? Yes. You had a beautiful view of the ocean? Yes. And the surf? Yes.”

“And out on the point at times it’s enormous; and is there a current that comes past that you can see sometimes? Yes, you can see it coming down the coast, coming around the point. And you have a beautiful view of the sunrise and of the sunset?”

“They finally came up with this hidden meaning which I think is very interesting; Lanihau is the place where the forces of the heavens and of the earth meet and all is quiet and peaceful. The moonlight and the sunshine, the waves, the grand weather, the storms, and so on, which is rather interesting, I think.”

“I would say that you are really in a very blessed spot.”

“I started to work here on the 28th of December of 1939. It was all just lava, nothing else. And this place evolved as a result of exposure and watching the surf and studying and seeing what one could do.”

“I always wanted a harbor for a boat to go fishing and to go swimming. And so, this gradually evolved and then I began to find out things about it.”

“Kamehameha the Great lived right here for some time – seven years – prior to his death. This is where he slept and over there was where he ate and over where the guest house is, is where his servants lived; and over at the far end there, beyond the entrance to the pond – going into the King Kamehameha [Hotel] lot – was the old heiau.”

“So he was self -contained and nobody was allowed on this place in the old days. You had to go around it. It was tabu. … Sacred.”

Back to the old man and his grandfather … “His grandson laughed when the old man ran down and said, ‘Well, my grandfather has said quite a few things. I will try to translate.’”

“In essence, what he said was this, that he will now die happy and he now understands why the good Lord never let anybody buy this over all the years.”

“He said, ‘He was waiting till you could come – till you had the money to come – and till you could develop this place, which certainly is even farther than Kamehameha would have been able to had he chosen to do it, and it will become a place of great beauty.’”

“‘I will now die happy because this property is in the hands of the man the Lord intended it to go to.’” (Lorrin P Thurston; Watumull Oral History)

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Kailua_Bay-Landing-Map-Wall-Reg2560 (1913)

January 21, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Scotch Coast

Answering a recruiting call from Hawai‘i for teachers, Marsue McGinnis McShane arrived at Laupahoehoe School in September of 1945. … “We were invited to all the parties and they gave a big party for us, the plantation.”

“(W)e went up to the [plantation] manager’s house. They were expecting us and we had tea and everything. [The area] was called the Scotch Coast, [because] a lot of the people were real Scotsmen.”

“And there were these Scotsmen and I remember they put on their kilts for us and did the dances. One guy, the one who was head of the sugar processing, the raw sugar, played the bagpipes.” (McShane)

“It has been said that ‘Scotland’s greatest export product is Scotsmen’ and many of them turned up in Hawaii beginning with the two Scots aboard Capt. James Cook’s Resolution when he discovered Hawaii for the West.” (LA Times)

“One well-known Scotsman was Capt. Alexander Adams, a wide-ranging navigator and friend of Hawaii’s first monarch King Kamehameha I.”

“In the 19th century a Scot, Robert Crichton Wyllie of Ayeshire, was Minister of Foreign Affairs under Kings Kamehameha III and IV.”

“From Edinburgh came Archibald Scott Cleghorn, who became governor of Oahu and husband of Princess Likelike. He was also father of a famous beauty, Princess Kaiulani, to whom another Scot, Robert Louis Stevenson, dedicated a poem.”

“The Hawaiian island that drew the most Scots was the Big Island of Hawaii. Some Scots undoubtedly found pleasure in settling in the island’s Waimea-Kohala area because its cool, misty upland climate reminded them of their own misty isles.” (LA Times)

“Unlike other large ethnic groups, the Scots never came in large groups or by the shipload. And in a society where ethnicity was easily identified, the Scots were simply part of the ‘haoles’”. (Orange County Register)

“The Scots came for various reasons. Some came for the pleasure of Hawaii. Others followed kinsmen already in Hawaii when economic conditions became poor in Scotland.”

“The Scottish emigrants came mostly from rural areas of Scotland and settled in country areas of Hawaii, particularly on the sugar plantations.”

“Eventually, so many Scots settled on the plantations along the Hamakua Coast that the area became known as the ‘Scotch Coast.’”

“On Saturday nights the Scots came into Hilo, the island’s main city, and congregated at the end of the railroad line at the corner of Kamehameha Street and Waianuenue Avenue. It was eventually known as the ‘Scotsmen’s corner.’” (LA Times)

“The Scots kept their ties to the mother country by letter, and by occasionally recruiting kinsmen to come to the islands to join them. They kept their traditional foods, as did other ethnic groups, and scones, oatmeal and shortbread were common on the island.”

“But the Scots also were canny enough to assimilate, or at least acculturate. An observer of the Scots in Hawaii, George Mair, described what a new Scot did when he arrived on the Island of Hawaii.

“‘He would get outfitted, learn about cane, learn pidgin.’ Only a few Scots maintained their British citizenship and most quickly worked at becoming American citizens.” (Orange County Register)

“A period of intense emigration was 1880 to 1930, when many of the Scots on the island sent back to Scotland for friends and relatives.”

“Most came from eastern Scotland – Kirriemuir, Aberdeen, Portknockie, Inverness, Angus and Perth. A few came from the Highlands.” (LA Times) “On the plantations the Scots worked quickly into managerial positions.” (Orange Coast Register)

“The calibre of these men were recorded by others, in particular the plantation owners. John T Moir said, ‘They were reliable men and whenever they were given a job to do, they saw it through. There was no slacking.’”

“At one time there were 26 sugar plantations along the ‘Scotch Coast’ and every one had Scots at some managerial level.” (LA Times)

“Over the Big Island, with Hawaiian Air Lines – ‘You’re now flying over the Hamakua coast, better known as the Scotch coast,’ said our purser. ‘Below us is the most productive soil in the world. As much as 300,000 pounds of sugar cane have been grown per acre on these plantations.’”

“He could have added that from an 180-mile square area, slightly larger than that of New York City, Hawaii produces over a 1,000,000 tons of sugar, manufactured in the US,’ pointed out my fellow passenger, Roy Leffingwell, of the Hawaii Sugar Plantations association. ‘It’s Hawaii’s main industry ….’” (Burns; Medford Mail Tribune)

Large coastal sugar promoter Theo H Davies hired as manager a Scotch engineer then operating a small Hilo foundry. The new manager was Alexander Young with whom Davies joined forces to organize Waiakea Mill Company.

Years later Davies was a stockholder with Young in the organization of von Hamm-Young Company, forerunner of The Hawaii Corporation. Principals were Young’s son Archibald, and Conrad C. von Hamm. An early project was the Alexander Young Hotel. (Greaney)

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Portable sugar cane flumes in field near Kukuihaele, Hawaii, looking toward Waipio-(BM)

Hamakua Sugar Worker-Christensen

Hamakua_Mill_Paauilo-1935-(bishopmuseum)

Sugar cane flume, Hamakua Hawaii-(BM)

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Hamakua Sugar

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SS Helene loading sugar at Koholalele Landing-Nelson

Sugar coming down the wire at Kukuihaele Landing-Nelson

Sugar on a car coming down the wire at Koholalele Landing-Nelson

January 19, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Are You Sure?

I wasn’t sure I would publicly ever tell this story, but it seems like the right time and place, now.

While at DLNR, when we were contemplating State rules for the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands (NWHI,) several proposals were being considered; multiple maps illustrated the various alternatives.

Of particular interest and one of the significant issues at hand, was whether we would continue to permit bottom fishing, or not. At the time, a handful of bottom fishers had permits.

In addressing the potential impact of eliminating NWHI bottom fishing, I had a concern about the impact to the price of fresh bottom fish that local consumers would face, if we would eliminate that source.

I had requested that a study be done to evaluate the impact. PEW Foundation funded the study that folks at UH prepared concerning the price impact. That study concluded that prices increases were expected to be insignificant.

Never-the-less, various alternatives and mapping of such were part of the final evaluation.

We had regular meetings with individuals, organizations and federal agencies about the rules – whether fishing should be allowed, or not; if allowed, should we limit that to certain areas, etc.

For the longest time, we would go back to a certain map that was labeled “Peter’s” map. (I think it was really ‘Alternative 3’.)

That map, and the internal draft rule package associated with it, allowed for continued fishing in designated areas.

DLNR staff prepared a set of draft rules to take before the Board of Land and Natural Resources as the State’s proposed rules – it called for continuation of existing bottom fishing in the NWHI; the map noted open and closed areas for fishing.

These were being prepared to present them to the Land Board.

For weeks, each night, I would take the rule package home and review the rules and maps. I would occasionally make tweaks in the rules, but the basic premise (of continued fishing) remained.

Literally, in the morning of the decision to set the date for presentation and decision by the Land Board, I came to work (having re-reviewed the package the night before) and received a call from Athline Clark, who was DLNR’s lead for the NWHI.

We discussed the draft rules and I said, “Let’s go with it.”

Then, she simply asked, “Are you sure?”

At that moment, the last three weeks flashed through my mind and I remembered how uncomfortable I had been feeling about what we were proposing – and the lack of sleep that I had during this time.

I then went with my gut feeling of what I felt was right and said, “No, let’s shut it down.”

We immediately created the Refuge rules whose intent is “To establish a marine refuge in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands for the long-term conservation and protection of the unique coral reef ecosystems and the related marine resources and species, to ensure their conservation and natural character for present and future generations.”

Fishing is prohibited.

This started a process where several others followed with similar protective measures.

The BLNR unanimously adopted the State’s Refuge rules, they were later signed by Governor Lingle; President Bush declared it a Marine National Monument (President Obama later expanded its size)’ UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site and … I guess, the rest is history.

To me, this action reflects the responsibility we share to provide future generations a chance to see what it looks like in a place in the world where you don’t take something.

One of the issues about the rules, and in protecting the place, relates to access. Due to the sensitivity of the area, permits are limited – so, rather than taking the people to the place, there are tools now in place to bring the place to the people.

Here’s a link to Google ‘Street View’ for some of the islands and atolls:

https://www.papahanaumokuakea.gov/education/virtual_visits.html

Here’s a link to the Monument website:

http://www.papahanaumokuakea.gov

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Clouds of reef fish and corals, French frigate shoals, NWHI

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Jean-Michel Cousteau – PTY

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January 11, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

The King and His Court

“The king and his small court, have for several years resided chiefly at Lahaina, in the island of Maui; but since the end of June, they have been living here (Honolulu); and I understand, this capital is to be their permanent residence.”

“It is desirable that his majesty should not be too far removed from the seat of his government, as his absence subjects his ministers to misrepresentation, and creates delay from the necessity of consulting him on all important measures of administration.”

“I understand that during the recent troubles of his kingdom, and till the ‘fiat’ of her Britannic majesty’s government, upon the questions referred to them, were known, it was his majesty’s wish to keep himself out of the way of unnecessary intrusion, whereby the prestige of his prerogatives might be impaired.”

“There never was, nor could be any wish on the part of his ministers to throw his majesty into the shade by studiously keeping him in retirement. In the existing state of things, it became their duty, in concurrence with the royal wish, to shield their master’s prerogatives from any encroachment that could prejudice them in the eyes of his subjects.”

“Now, his majesty appears on the arena as a member of the family of recognized independent sovereigns, and the ministers are attempting to place his court, and organize his tribunals, upon a footing suited to his altered situation. In all this they only do what is their duty to the king, and what foreign governments will expect them to do.”

“Where everything was to be created de novo, errors are but to be expected; and fault has been found with the code of court etiquette decreed, and with the etiquette observed on the laid festival of the 31st of July,”

“After the explanation rendered, I believe by authority, in the Polynesian of the 31st of July, an intention to avoid any offensive preference becomes manifest; and with a government so young and surrounded by so many embarrassments, in my opinion offence ought not be felt, where no intention to give it can be suspected.”

“On proper application being made previously, the representatives of foreign powers are at all times admitted to a personal interview with the king, for the purpose of submitting to his majesty any case of well-founded grievance which any of their countrymen may have against the government or authorities of the country.”

“In speaking of the court, I cannot well omit making some allusion to the King himself. In all countries the character of the sovereign is to be approached with respect, and in this particular instance I do so in strict accordance with the feeling which I entertain towards the king of these islands.”

“It is not a little remarkable that in a society where there are some few individuals disposed to blame, censure and find fault with everything and everybody, I have never heard a single remark unfavorable to his majesty Kamehameha III.”

“All admit the goodness of his disposition; none profess to doubt the soundness of his intentions; none accuse him of cruelty, tyranny or oppression; and those who have familiar access to him, all concur in ascribing to his majesty much natural talent, and a good deal of acquired information.”

“Amongst those, I am happy to quote my friend Major Low, of the Bengal army, who lately made a tour in these islands, and after presenting to the king an introductory note from HRM’s consul general, experienced from his majesty the utmost kindness, rendered in the most frank, generous and gentlemanly spirit.”

“The Major retired from these islands with the most favorable opinion of his majesty’s character and talent. “

“His majesty of late years has become both the patron and the example of temperance among his subjects; and no one can be more regular in his attendance at church, or more zealous in discouraging the pagan rites, ceremonies and superstitions that formerly prevailed amongst the natives.”

“Kamehameha III is now about thirty two years of age, and though less robust than some of the chiefs, enjoys good health. On the 29 February 1837, he was married to Kalama, now aged twenty-seven years, but by whom he has no offspring.”

“In the event of his having no succession, the crown will devolve upon Alexander Liholiho, whom his majesty has adopted for that purpose. He is a sprightly promising youth, now in his eleventh year.”

“A singular feature in this monarchy is the custom of appointing a female to be premier of the kingdom. This custom seems to have originated in the will of Kamehameha I, which declared the kingdom to belong to his son Liholiho, but that Kaahumanu, (one of his queens,) should be his minister.”

“The present premier is Kekāuluohi, aged forty eight, and apparently much respected by all classes. Her attributes under the constitution are to carry into execution all business which the king wishes to transact – to be his majesty’s special counselor in the great business of the kingdom …”

“… to receive reports of all government property and make it over to the king and to concur with and approve all important business which the king may transact in person.”

“Whatever business in the kingdom she does, is to be considered as executed by the king’s authority—but the king has a veto on her acts, while his own are not binding unless approved of by her.”

“The premier has one son, William Charles Lunalilo, an interesting youth, now in his tenth year, but I presume his sex disqualifies him from being her successor, as Victoria Kamāmalu, now in her sixth year, is the reputed heir to the premiership.”

“I may add here that no pains are spared by Mr. and Mrs. Cook, through proper education and training, to fit these young persons, Alexander and Victoria, for the high functions which they are to be called upon to perform.”

“They are the children of his excellency Kekūanāoʻa, governor of Oahu by Kīna’u or Kaahumanu the second premier.” (Wyllie; The Friend, November 1, 1844)

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