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June 26, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Morse Field – South Point, Hawaiʻi

Kalae Military Reservation, Morse Field, South Cape Airport, South Point Air Force Station (AFS) – it had a lot of names; it had a relatively short, but varied life.  It was on the Island of Hawaiʻi, at Ka Lae, South Point.

In 1933, the War Department designated the airfield as Morse Field, in honor of 2nd Lt. Guy E Morse of the WWI 135th Aero Squadron.  Morse was posthumously issued the Distinguished Service Cross for extraordinary heroism in action.  He and his pilot (Wilbur C Suiter) fearlessly volunteered for the perilous mission of locating the enemy’s advance unit in the rear of the Hindenburg line.

Disregarding the hail of machine gun fire and bursting anti-aircraft shell, they invaded the enemy territory at a low altitude and accomplished his mission, securing information of the greatest importance. They at once returned to the lines and undertook another reconnaissance mission, from which they failed to return.  (Suiter Field, the military’s air field that is now Upolu Airport, was named after 1st Lieutenant Wilbur C Suiter.)

Morse Field had a runway and one small barracks.  Then, they expanded the facility and it was referred to as Kalae Military Reservation.   In 1940, construction was underway on five buildings, runways and access roads at Morse Field.  Activities were centralized at this airport inasmuch as its location shortened a routing through Oahu, the trans-Pacific air ferry route to Australia and the Philippines by approximately 200-miles.

The work on runways at Morse Field was suspended shortly after the attack on Pearl Harbor (December 7, 1941 – there were at least 2 fighters stationed at the strip when Pearl Harbor was attacked) and all adjacent smooth ground potential landing areas demolished as a precautionary measure against enemy use.

Blocking of landing areas on the island occupied large amounts of time and manpower due to the extensive areas involved and the comparatively smooth surfaces surrounding the field, which could be used as landing fields.

Later, construction increased the number of buildings to 5, built nine 50,000 gallon fuel tanks, a water line, access roads, and extended the runway to 6,000-feet.  Morse Field was an earth field with a Marston Mat (steel grid) runway and was constructed as a temporary facility.

Gun emplacements were also added around the field.  By December 28, 1941 gasoline storage facilities were complete, a water line installed and mobilization buildings were more than half finished.

After World War II, Morse Field was declared surplus by the military in 1946 and the Territorial Legislature placed it under the management of the Hawaii Aeronautics Commission (HAC.)

Rancher James Glover made a survey of the airport and found the buildings to be of no value except the corrugated roofing.  He said he was in favor of keeping the airport open so that slaughtered cattle could be shipped out.  He offered to maintain the airport at his own expense and to keep it open at all times as an emergency landing strip.

On November 3, 1947, the Commission made an application for the South Cape Airport to enter into an agreement with Mr. Glover.  The U.S. Army granted a right of entry into Morse Field to the Territory on January 16, 1948.

Because of its remote location the HAC expected very little use by commercial airlines. Since satisfactory sites in this part of the island where aircraft could set down with safety in case of an emergency were non-existent, the Hawaii Aeronautics Commission decided to retain this strip as an emergency landing field.

With minimal maintenance (Hilo Airport staff made quarterly trips to Morse Field to perform minor maintenance and repair work,) by 1952 the field was found to be in bad condition due to erosion around the edges of the mats.

In the meantime, a new Federal Aid Highway project had been completed into Hilo, which caused the entire community to look to the Hilo Airport for their transportation needs. As a result, traffic into the field came to a standstill.

In 1954, the Territorial Director of Aeronautics requested abandonment of the airport; it was abandoned the next year.

In December 1964, the Air Force Systems Command announced that the Air Force would assume control of space tracking and communications from the Navy; the station closed the next year.

It was later reopened to support a sounding rocket probe program to evaluate advanced ballistic reentry system experiments.  The close proximity and aspect angle of South Point to the optical site sensors located on the island of Maui were the primary reasons for launching the probes from this location.

In 1979, the Station was divided in two parcels located about 1.5-miles apart. One of the sites was the main operations area, while the other area was used for a radar tower.  The Station was under the operational control of the Space and Missile Test Center (SAMTEC).

The short-lived South Point Air Force Station was one of the few Air Force installations in the State of Hawaiʻi that did not fall under the control of the 15th Air Base Wing. It belonged to the Air Force Systems Command (AFSC,) headquartered at Andrews AFB.

That use ended, too; in 1983 the executive orders for the facility were cancelled.   Also in the 1980s, there were discussions about a private rocket launching facility here, but those never came to fruition.  (Lots of info here from hawaii-gov and Freeman.)

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Military Tagged With: South Point, Suiter Field, Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Morse Field

June 20, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Concrete No. 5

“Ship traps” describes a phenomenon where northern and southern swells, strong channel currents, strong consistent trade winds and fringing reefs force unsuspecting vessels into areas of harm – resulting in concentrated shipwrecks.

The north shore of the Island of Lānaʻi, locally referred to as “Shipwreck Beach,” is the best example of this phenomenon. Here, the channel acts as a funnel, depositing material directly onto Shipwreck Beach.

Any vessel that broke its moorings at Lāhainā would end up there; sometimes ship owners intentionally abandoned worn-out vessels there by simply casting them adrift upwind from the treacherous shore. (Naval Historical Center)

The first reported wreck occurred in 1824 when a British vessel named the Alderman Wood ran into the reef there. Two years later, an American ship, the London, sunk there with its cargo of gold and silver bullion. No one knows how much – if any – of the gold and silver was recovered. (Brost)

Known wrecks include: British ship Alderman Wood (lost 1824); American ship London (lost 1826;) Hawaiian schooner Onward (lost 1875;) Hawaiian schooner Mary Alice (lost 1884;) Hawaiian schooner Malolo (lost 1887;) Hawaiian schooner Golden Gate (lost 1901;) Hawaiian steamship Hornet (disposed 1927.)

In addition, other victims include, Hawaiian schooner Helene (disposed 1929;) Hawaiian vessel Manukiiwai (abandoned 1929;) private yawl Charlotte C (lost 1931;) private auxiliary Tradewind (lost 1934;) three US Navy steel LCM landing craft (lost 1940s;) Hawaiian barge Oregon Reefer (disposed 1954; US Navy oiler YO-21 (disposed 1957?) and US Navy barge YOGN-42 (disposed 1950s?.) (NOAA)

A constant reminder of Shipwreck Beach is the last one – from the US Navy, YOGN-42 – a number, not otherwise named. It is 375-feet long, with a beam of 56-feet and draft of 26-and-a-half feet.

Contrary to some of the reports on this vessel, it is neither a WWII Liberty ship nor was it even a motorized vessel. The ship sitting on the reef at Shipwreck Beach is actually a non-self-propelled Navy gasoline barge.

On September 28, 1942, Commander Service Force, Pacific Fleet requested that fuel carrying barges be acquired without delay to meet the serious fuel storage problem of the naval forces in the South Pacific.

The construction of these barges was such that they could be towed to the required locations and used for fuel storage, thus providing the needed fuel storage and expediting the turnaround of tankers serving those areas. (Roberts)

On October 24, 1942, the Auxiliary Vessels Board estimated that a minimum of six barges were needed and recommended that the Navy acquire the first six to be completed.

“Concrete No. 5” was put into service in June 1943 as “YOGN-42.”

On November 11, 1942 they asked for six more of these barges to meet the expanding fuel storage requirements in the South Pacific.

Most the vessels built by the Concrete Ship Constructors at National City, California eventually ended up as floating oil barges; two were sunk as blockships during the Allied invasion of Normandy (scuttled to create sheltered water at the landing beaches.) (Naval Historical Center)

Some saw life following the war; one became a restaurant and later a fishing pier. One became a ten-room hotel. Nine were sunk as breakwaters for a ferry landing at Kiptopeke, Virginia. Two more are made into wharves in Yaquina Bay, Newport Oregon. Seven are part of a giant floating breakwater on the Powell River, Canada.

During the war, YOGN-42 was sent to Espiritu Santo, as part of a forward staging area for US forces in Vanuatu in Oceania. While there, its tug, Tug USS Navajo (AT-64,) was sunk by Japanese submarine I-39, 150-miles east of Espiritu Santo.

YOGN-42 survived the war, but was stricken from the active register in 1949 and abandoned on Shipwreck Beach sometime after that. (Maly)

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

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Concrete Floating Breakwater-Powell River in British Columbia, Canada-Campbell
Concrete Floating Breakwater-Powell River in British Columbia, Canada-Campbell
Walkway_at_Kiptopeke_State_Park, Virginia
Walkway_at_Kiptopeke_State_Park, Virginia
Powell_River_Aerial, BC Canada
Powell_River_Aerial, BC Canada
Concrete Fuel Barges as Floating Breakwater on the Powell River, Canada
Concrete Fuel Barges as Floating Breakwater on the Powell River, Canada
Nine-Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke, Virginia
Nine-Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke, Virginia
Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke, Virginia
Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke, Virginia
Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke, Virginia-Rooney
Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke, Virginia-Rooney
Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke Virginia
Concrete Fuel Barges as Breakwater-Kiptopeke Virginia
Concrete Fuel Barge as Wharf Yaquina Bay, Newport, Oregon-2005
Concrete Fuel Barge as Wharf Yaquina Bay, Newport, Oregon-2005
Concrete Floating Breakwater-Powell River in British Columbia, Canada-YOGN-82
Concrete Floating Breakwater-Powell River in British Columbia, Canada-YOGN-82

Filed Under: Place Names, Military Tagged With: Hawaii, Lanai, Shipwreck

June 7, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Forty Niner

Katsutaro Chagami was Issei (first generation) – born in Japan and emigrated to the Islands from 1885 to 1924 (when Congress stopped all legal migration). The term Issei came into common use and represented the idea of a new beginning and belonging.

The children of the Issei, like Richard Kiyoshi Chagami, were Nisei, the second generation in Hawaiʻi and the first generation of Japanese descent to be born and receive their entire education in America, learning Western values and holding US citizenship.

“When the Issei first arrived in Hawaii they lived in plantation villages or camps and preserved their way of life by only speaking Japanese. After 1900, a significant influx of picture brides to the islands created families that served as the basis for a flourishing Japanese population.”

“As the community grew, Buddhist temples, Japanese newspapers, and Japanese language schools were created. Most Japanese immigrants were plantation workers, but there were those who chose to take up a life of fishing as a means of sustenance and income.”

“Small fishing villages were known to crop up around coastal areas. Katsutaro and Kawayo Chagami [Richard Chagami’s parents], lived on the shores of Pearl Harbor in a small fishing village on what is currently the Aiea Bay State Recreation Area.” (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

“Katsutaro Chagami owned a sampan (a flat-bottomed fishing boat) that was moored at Kewalo Basin. His fishing endeavors called him away for two weeks at a time. Besides deep sea fishing, Katsutaro occasionally brought the boat home to take the family for rides to Ford Island (Mokuumeume) or around Pearl Harbor (Puuloa).”

“The Chagami family had erected an ebisu kotohira (fishing shrine) on their property, a sacred object the family would eventually take with them.”

“In 1940, Pearl Harbor terminated the leases on the fishing village and Katsutaro, Kawayo, and their 11 children were forced to look for other living accommodations.” (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

Richard Chagami (born on June 21, 1917) served in the Army along with his brother Henry. They served in Italy and France as part of the 442nd Regimental Combat Team during World War II.  During his service with the Army, Richard served as a cook.  (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

Upon the boys’ return, their parents purchased a lunch wagon from Elia Niau so the brothers could start a business together. The lunch wagon sold meals near the corner of Honomanu and Kamehameha Highway.

In the beginning, they served mostly banana splits, ice cream floats and sodas. The menu later changed to plate lunches, saimin and burgers. (Bernardo)

“The wagon was on their (Chagami’s) property. We used to hook up to their electricity and use their water to run the wagon. They were always really nice to us.”

“It was World War II, so there was rationing.  But because my father was a police officer who patrolled the Pearl City area, he always knew where to get the food.”

“I used to use a wheel barrel to carry the sodas and the burgers across the street. They loved our burgers and our bacon sandwiches.” (Solomon Niau, son of Elia Niau; Paragas) These were the two staples of the lunch wagon then, and they remain popular among many of the restaurant’s current patrons. (Paragas)

The wagon was named the “Forty Niner”. The name drew inspiration from the Gold Rush and alluded to the owner’s hopes that patrons would flock to the eatery much like adventurers converged on California.

“I guess my parents (including mom Elizabeth Johnson Niau) thought that if they bought the Forty Niner, people would rush in like they did during the 1949 Gold Rush.” (Solomon Niau, son of Elia Niau; Paragas)

The wagon gained a strong following from workers at the Aiea Naval Hospital, Pearl Harbor, and other adjacent military facilities. After the lunch wagon gained a substantial following, a free-standing, permanent restaurant was constructed. The Forty Niner establishment was completed in August of 1947. (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

Richard Chagami handled the daily operations while Henry handled the bookkeeping. Over the years, Chagami’s nine other siblings also helped out. (Bernardo)

Richard retired in 2006 and passed the historic building, and the recipes served in it, to new owner Wil Cordes III. “I knew there would be a lot of eyes on me,” Cordes says.

“People have been bringing their families, three, four generations already. They were going to know the menu and taste of the food better than I did.”

So, after a few months of much needed renovations – the kitchen had a single burner and no telephone – he reopened with Richard’s sister, Jennie Tsuchidana, still making the burgers, saimin dashi and all the original menu items. Before he passed in 2011, Richard would even stop by now and then: “He would just say, ‘taste good, taste good,’” Cordes says.

“Meanwhile, he and his wife, Karla, expanded the menu to breakfast with pancakes, waffles and French toast and rotating specials throughout the day.

Longtime diners can now dig into the Forty Niner pancakes – which Cordes says were the first to feature haupia sauce and macadamia nuts – banana French toast, chilaquiles with eggs and garlic chicken while sitting on the eatery’s original stools.  (Honolulu Magazine)

© 2025 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Buildings, Military, Prominent People, Economy Tagged With: Forty Niner, Richard Chagami, Wil Cordes, Hawaii, Aiea, 442 Regimental Combat Team

June 4, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Codebreakers – Secret to Success at Battle of Midway

Around 7:20 Sunday morning, a single-engine Japanese reconnaissance plane entered the cloud-streaked airspace over Pearl Harbor.  Launched earlier that morning from the heavy cruiser Chikuma, the plane circled as the pilot studied the ground below.

Having seen all he needed to see, at precisely 7:35 the recon pilot radioed his report to the striking force, which quickly relayed the information to the Japanese planes now approaching Oahu from the north: “Enemy formation at anchor; nine battleships, one heavy cruiser, six light cruisers are in the harbor.”

The attack on Pearl Harbor set in motion a series of battles in the Pacific between the Japanese and the United States.

With the fall of Wake Island to the Japanese in late-December 1941, Midway became the westernmost US outpost in the central Pacific.

Midway occupied an important place in Japanese military planning. According to plans made before Pearl Harbor, the Japanese fleet would attack and occupy Midway and the Aleutian Islands in Alaska as soon as their position in South Asia was stabilized.

Defenses on the atoll were strengthened between December and April.  Land-based bombers and fighters were stationed on Eastern Island.  US Marines provided defensive artillery and infantry.

Operating from the atoll’s lagoon, seaplanes patrolled toward the Japanese-held Marshall Islands and Wake, checking on enemy activities and guarding against further attacks on Hawaiʻi.

The turning point in the Pacific came in June 1942, when the US surprised and overpowered the Japanese fleet in the Battle of Midway.

That victory was possible, in large part, because of the work of a little-known naval codebreaker named Joe Rochefort.  (Rochefort, responsible for the Pacific Fleet’s radio intelligence unit at the time of the Pearl Harbor attack, felt immense guilt at the failure to predict the Pearl Harbor attack.)

The Japanese Combined Fleet depended on a complex system of codes to communicate by radio. The codes were regularly modified to avoid detection, but in the confusion of the rapid Japanese expansion in the South Pacific the change scheduled for early-1942 was delayed.

The course to Midway started not on a map in a top secret chart room with top strategists and tacticians contemplating Japan’s next move, but was set by the deciphering of messages from the Japanese Fleet.

This was done by a handful of US Navy intelligence officers stationed at Pearl Harbor.

In the spring of 1942, it took cryptanalysts in Australia, Washington, DC and Hawai‘i to achieve the breakthrough that made an American victory at Midway possible.

The Japanese naval code, known as JN 25, consisted of approximately 45,000 five-digit numbers, each number representing a word or a phrase.

Breaking this code, which was modified regularly, meant finding the meanings of enough of these numbers that a whole message could be decrypted by extrapolating the missing parts.

According to one of the leading codebreakers involved, it was like putting together a jigsaw puzzle with most of its pieces always missing.

Leading the codebreaking effort was Station Hypo, the code name for the combat intelligence unit at Pearl Harbor under Commander Joseph Rochefort.

Rochefort included members of the band from the battleship ‘California,’ damaged at Pearl Harbor.  He thought their musical skills might make them adept codebreakers in much the same way that Marine bandsmen used to serve as fire control technicians on ship — the ability to quickly read and play music made them excellent mathematical problem solvers.

By May 8, Rochefort knew that a major enemy operation, whose objective was sometimes called AF, was in the offing and that it would take place somewhere in the Central Pacific.

When they checked this against their partially solved map grid, the found that “A” represented on coordinate of Midway’s potion and “F” represented the other.

His superiors in Washington weren’t convinced; they devised a test that would flush out the location of AF.

The radio station on Midway dispatched an uncoded message falsely reporting that the water distillation plant on the island had broken, causing a severe water shortage.  Within 48 hours, a decrypted Japanese radio transmission was alerting commanders that AF was short of water.

Several days later, he was sure the target was Midway.  As a result, the Americans entered the battle with a very good picture of where, when and in what strength the Japanese would appear.

On June 4, 1942, armed with information from Rochefort and his team, American planes caught the Japanese by surprise and won the decisive battle – it marked the turning point in the war in the Pacific.

In the four-day sea and air battle, 292 aircraft, four Japanese aircraft carriers – Akagi, Kaga, Soryu and Hiryu, all part of the six carrier force in the attack on Pearl Harbor six months earlier – and a heavy cruiser were sunk.  There were 2,500 Japanese casualties.

The US lost the carrier Yorktown, the destroyer USS Hammann, 145 aircraft and suffered 307 casualties. (The inspiration and information in this summary comes from NPS, NPR and Naval History) 

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Military Tagged With: Hawaii, Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, Midway, Pearl Harbor, Battle of Midway, Joe Rochefort, Yorktown

May 31, 2025 by Peter T Young 6 Comments

“Take it all except the Cannon Club”

When the Vice-President of Kapiʻolani Community College visited the Army headquarters at Schofield Barracks in 1965 to ask for the former Fort Ruger lands, the general was said to have replied “Take it all except the Cannon Club.” (Cultural Surveys)

Whoa … we’ve already gotten waaay ahead of ourselves. Let’s look back.

In 1884, Diamond Head went from private royal ownership to government property. Under King Kalākaua, the Diamond Head crater and part of the surrounding lands were transferred from the estate of King Lunalilo to the Hawaiian government. In 1904, the US government acquired 729-acres of Diamond Head as public domain.

From 1904 until 1950, Diamond Head was closed to the public at large. During this period of exclusive occupation, significant construction occurred within the crater. Bunkers, communication rooms, storage tunnels and coastal artillery fortifications were built. (LRB)

Between 1909-1921, the Hawaiian Coast Artillery Command had its headquarters at Fort Ruger and defenses included artillery regiments stationed at Fort Armstrong, Fort Barrette, Fort DeRussy, Diamond Head, Fort Kamehameha, Kuwa‘aohe Military Reservation (Fort Hase – later known as Marine Corps Base Hawaiʻi) and Fort Weaver.

The forts and battery emplacements batteries were dispersed for concealment and to insure that a projectile striking one would not thereby endanger a neighbor.

Fort Ruger Military Reservation was established at Diamond Head (Lēʻahi) in 1906. The Reservation was named in honor of Major General Thomas H Ruger, a Civil War hero and, later, superintendent of the United States Military Academy at West Point.

The fort included Battery Harlow (1910-1943); Battery Birkhimer (1916-1943); Battery Granger Adams (1935-1946); Battery Dodge (1915-1925); Battery Mills (1916-1925); Battery 407 (1944); Battery Hulings (1915-1925); and Battery Ruger (1937-1943).

Also at Fort Ruger was the Cannon Club, a social club with a restaurant built in 1945 for the officers and their families at Fort Ruger and other military installations.

“It wasn’t the fanciest place on the island, but it was the sort of old-style officers’ club that crisply preserved the illusion that each guest there, for the evening at least, was important and deserved some extra attention.”

“It was a place where people said “Sir” and “Ma’am” a lot; where you got fruit cocktail and thick juicy slabs of Porterhouse or prime rib, along with buttery rolls and piping hot baked potatoes heaped with real bacon bits … or watch the grown-ups glide across a dance floor that was open to the balmy breezes and the lambent sky, keeping time to the strains of a live band.” (Cultural Surveys)

The conclusion of World War II and the advent of nuclear and missile warfare made the coastal batteries obsolete. Thus in December 1955 the majority of the Fort Ruger land was turned over to the State of Hawai‘i.

The club, however, could not keep up with the times. Under a 1987 federal law, military clubs had to be self-sustaining to remain open, and the Army had to close the Cannon Club in 1997 as a result. For a few years, there was hope that the restaurant could reopen under private contractors, but the funding for the project fell through. (Cultural Surveys)

In 2001, the State acquired the 7.8-acre property across from the Kapiʻolani Community College campus (which is situated on former Fort Ruger land.)

A few years later, the Board of Land and Natural Resources approved a direct lease of the Cannon Club site to the University of Hawaiʻi for the Culinary Institute of the Pacific (under KCC) that was executed in August 2004. (I was Chair of DLNR at the time.)

Kapiʻolani Technical School was established near the Ala Wai in 1946; their first program was food service. In 1965, programs were realigned to fit the UH community college system (it was then renamed Kapiʻolani Community College – and eventually relocated to its present campus on the mauka slopes of Diamond Head.)

The Culinary Institute of the Pacific was formed in 2000 as a UH Community College System-wide consortium. Its mission is to provide career, technical and cultural culinary education. It is a collaboration with the Culinary Institute of America (CIA).

The new 65-year lease enables “the university to develop new instructional and restaurant facilities for KCC’s Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Diamond Head.”

“The Culinary Institute will expand opportunities for current students, past graduates and industry professionals seeking advance degrees in the culinary arts and managerial positions.” (Governor Lingle; UH)

The UH, through KCC, is developing new certificate and degree programs in culinary arts to serve State needs for advanced culinary instruction and training. Currently, the Community Colleges offer two-year Associate of Science degrees or non-credit culinary arts programs.

Based at the former Cannon Club, the new programs serve the needs of students completing the two year degree, industry professionals requiring advanced culinary education, and students from outside Hawai‘i seeking training in Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. (UH)

The Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Diamond Head is a state-of-the art, environmentally sustainable culinary campus that will include a signature restaurant open to the public, competition kitchen, demonstration theater, advanced Asian culinary lab, a patisserie classroom, imu pit and theme garden plots. (Restaurant Week) (The restaurant is opening in the fall of 2025.)

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Filed Under: Buildings, Military Tagged With: Hawaii, Oahu, Army Coast Artillery Corps, Diamond Head, Fort Ruger, Army, Cannon Club

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People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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