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December 26, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Kauō

Kauō (Laysan Island) is the second largest land mass in the NWHI (1,015 acres) just behind Sand Island at Midway Atoll. It is about 1 mile wide and 1-1/2 miles long and roughly rectangular in shape (shaped like a poi board).

Laysan Island is a member of the Hawaiian archipelago situated 790 sea miles to the northwest of Honolulu, latitude 25” 2’ 14” N, longitude 170” 44’ 06” W.

The island has a maximum elevation of about 30 feet. A fringing reef surrounds the island protecting its shores from violent wave action. (Baldwin)

Kauō (egg) describes both the shape of this island and, perhaps, the abundant seabirds that nest here. The island also previously harbored five Hawaiian endemic land birds, of which two, the endangered Laysan finch and the endangered Laysan duck, still survive. (PMNM Management Plan)

The Laysan Millerbird, along with the Laysan Rail and Laysan Honeycreeper, went extinct in the early 20th century when Laysan Island was denuded by non-native rabbits. (PMNM)

The island’s easy access and large number of seabirds made it a base for traders of guano (bird droppings used as fertilizer) and feather harvesters in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Although the practices were declared illegal, poachers killed hundreds of thousands of birds and caused dramatic changes in the island’s ecosystem. Remnants of guano piles remain from this era.

Rabbits released in the early 1900s devastated the island’s vegetation. These events caused a public outcry which led to the creation of the Hawaiian Islands Bird Reservation by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1909. (Dill)

The endangered Laysan duck, is the rarest waterfowl in the Northern hemisphere and has the smallest geographic range of any duck species in the world.

It once lived throughout the Hawaiian Archipelago but vanished from the main Hawaiian Islands with the arrival of rats around 800 years ago. They later disappeared from the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands except for a small population that existed in isolation on Laysan Island for more than 150 years.

In 1911, only 11 ducks were observed on Laysan Island. Today, under present management operations, there are over 707 Laysan ducks – 40 on Kure, 290 on Midway and 377 on Laysan Island. (PMNM)

In addition, approximately two million seabirds nest here, including boobies, frigatebirds, terns, shearwaters, noddies, and the world’s second-largest black-footed and Laysan albatross colonies. (PMNM Management Plan)

Laysan has a large saltwater lagoon occupying about one-fifth of the island’s central depression. It is well vegetated (except for its sand dunes) and contains a hyper-saline lake, which is one of only five natural lakes in the State of Hawai‘i. (PMNM)

Laysan has been protected as a bird reserve since 1909, introduced mammals have been extirpated, and the island has no infrastructure besides a small field camp. (USGS)

“The Hawaiian Islands Reservation was established by Executive order in 1909 to serve as a refuge and breeding place for the millions of sea birds and waders that from time immemorial have resorted there yearly to raise their young or to rest while migrating.”

“In 1909 a party of feather hunters landed on Laysan, one of the twelve islands comprising the reservation, and killed more than 200,000 birds, notably albatrosses, for millinery purposes.”

“Through the prompt cooperation of the Secretary of the Treasury, the revenue cutter Thetis, under the command of Capt. W. V. E. Jacobs, was dispatched to the island and returned to Honolulu in January, 1910, with 23 poachers and their booty, consisting of the plumage of more than a quarter of a million birds.”

“In the spring of 1911 a cooperative arrangement was effected with the University of Iowa … whereby an expedition was sent to Laysan, the largest and most important island of the group, to ascertain the present condition of the bird rookeries and to collect a series of birds for a museum exhibit.” (Wilson & Henshaw, Expedition 1911)

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Laysan Island.

https://goo.gl/63WGFK

While I was Chair at DLNR, we created State Refuge rules whose intent is “To establish a marine refuge in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands for the long-term conservation and protection of the unique coral reef ecosystems and the related marine resources and species, to ensure their conservation and natural character for present and future generations.” Fishing is prohibited.

This started a process where several others followed with similar protective measures. The BLNR unanimously adopted the State’s Refuge rules, President Bush declared it a Marine National Monument and UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site.

Some ask why we imposed such stringent limitations on use in this area. For me, it ended up being pretty simple; it is the responsibility we share to future generations, to allow them to see what it looks like at a place in the world where you don’t take something.

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Laysan-Island_Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan-Island_Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan Albatross (Dan Maxwell)
Laysan Albatross (Dan Maxwell)
laysan_duck_translocation_1
laysan_duck_translocation_1
Laysan_Island_Coast_Guard_Cutter_Thetis-1913-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Coast_Guard_Cutter_Thetis-1913-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Munro_June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Munro_June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Munro_June-1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Munro_June-1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island_Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-1911-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-1911-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-1913-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-1913-(DenverMuseum)
Gathering Albatross Eggs-Laysan
Gathering Albatross Eggs-Laysan
Laysan_Island-Alfred_M_Bailey_at_headuarters-1912-13-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-Alfred_M_Bailey_at_headuarters-1912-13-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-or-Midway-Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan_Island-or-Midway-Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan-Island-1911-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan-Island-1911-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan-Island-Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Laysan-Island-Munro-June_1891-(DenverMuseum)
Papahanaumokuakea-Marine-National-Monument-Map
Papahanaumokuakea-Marine-National-Monument-Map

Filed Under: General, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Laysan, Kauo, Hawaii, Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument

December 22, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Early Foreigners

“The number of foreigners residing at the islands is far greater than I supposed. Four American mercantile houses – two of Boston, one of New York, and one of Bristol, Rhode Island – have establishments at this port, to which agents and clerks are attached.”

“Their storehouses are abundantly furnished with goods in demand by the islanders; and, at them, most articles contained in common retail shops and groceries, in America, may be purchased.”

“The whole trade of the four, probably amounts to one hundred thousand dollars a year: sandal wood principally, and specie, being the returns for imported manufactures.”

“Each of these trading houses usually has a ship or brig in the harbour, or at some one of the islands; besides others that touch to make repairs, and obtain refreshments, in their voyages between the North-west, Mexican, and South American coasts, and China.”

“The agents and clerks of these establishments, and the supercargoes and officers of the vessels attached to them, with transient visiters in ships, holding similar situations, form the most respectable class of foreigners with whom we are called to have intercourse.”

“There is another class, consisting of fifteen or twenty individuals, who have dropped all connexion with their native countries, and become permanent residents on different islands; and who hold plantations and other property under the king awl various chiefs.”

“Of these, Marini (Don Francisco de Paula y Marin) a Spaniard, interpreter for the government; Rives, a Frenchman, private secretary to RihoRiho; Law, a Scotchman, the king’s physician, all of Oahu; Young, an Englishman; and Parker, an American, of Hawaii; and Butler, an American, of Maui, are the principal and most known.”

“Marini and Young have been at the islands more than thirty years; and were companions and counsellors of Tamehameha. The former has accumulated much property, holds many plantations, and owns extensive flocks of goats, and herds of cattle; and is said to have money in fund, both in the United States and in England.”

“He has introduced the grape, orange, lemon, pine-apple, fig, and tamarind trees, but to a very limited extent; and seemingly from a motive entirely selfish: for he has perseveringly denied the seeds, and every means of propagation, to others, and been known even secretly to destroy a growth that had been secured from them without his knowledge.”

“A considerable quantity of wine is yearly made from his vineyard; and his lemons and pines, by sales to ships and in the town, bring quite an income.”

“He has a numerous breed of mules; and several horses, some twenty or thirty of which have within a few years been brought from the coast of California, and are now rapidly increasing.”

“Flocks of beautiful doves, also an importation, are domiciliated at his establishment; and some few miles from the town, along the coast, there is an islet, covered with the burrows of English hares, belonging to him.”

“Besides this class of foreigners, there are between one and two hundred runaway sailors and vagabonds, scattered through the group, wanderers on the earth, the very dregs and outcasts of society.”

“These, and, I am sorry to say, too many others, who, from their birth and education in a Christian land, ought to be examples of rectitude and morality, are the greatest corrupters of this wretched people; and present the most formidable of obstacles to the moral influence of our teaching.”

“Fancying themselves, in this remote part of the world, free from every restraint of God and man, instead of attempting to turn the heathen from their darkness, they encourage them in sin; even become pioneers in iniquity; and the instruments of doubly sealing them, as we fear, in the gloom of spiritual and eternal death.”

“When the first Missionaries reached the Sandwich Islands, in the spring of 1820, an effort was made by some of the foreigners, to have their landing and establishment at the islands forbidden by the government.”

“With this view, their motives were misrepresented by them, to the king and chiefs. It was asserted, that while the ostensible object of the mission was good, the secret and ultimate design was the subjugation of the islands, and the enslavement of the people …”

“… and by way of corroboration, the treatment of the Mexicans, and aborigines of South America and the West Indies, by the Spaniards, and the possession of Hindostan by the British, were gravely related.”

“It was in consequence of this misrepresentation, that a delay of eight days occurred before the Missionaries could secure permission to disembark.”

“In answer to these allegations, the more intelligent of the chiefs remarked, ‘The Missionaries speak well: they say they have come from America, only to do us good: if they intend to seize our islands why are they so few in number? where are their guns? and why have they brought their wives?’”

“To this it was replied, ‘It is true, their number is small: a few only have come now, the more fully to deceive. But soon many more will arrive, and your islands will be lost!’”

“The chiefs again answered, ‘They say that they will do us good; they are few in number; we will try them for one year, and if we find they deceive us, it will then be time enough to send them away.’”

“And permission to land was accordingly granted. Mr. Young, I am told was the only foreigner who advocated their reception.”

“The jealousy of the government was, notwithstanding, greatly awakened; and all the movements of our friends were closely watched: the king was even led to believe that the digging of the cellar, and the laying of the foundation of the Mission House, was the commencement of a fortification, of which the spaces left for windows were the embrasures.”

“By the close of the first year the Missionaries had so far proved to the government the purity of their motive, and the integrity of their character, that the question of their longer continuance was not agitated.”

“Some of the chiefs had already become interested in the instructions commenced in English, and in the services of Christian worship, regularly observed on the Sabbath, and occasionally at other times.”

“The partial acquisition of the language of the country – the formation of an alphabet for the native tongue – the elementary lessons in reading and writing which immediately followed – and chiefly perhaps the Preaching Of The Gospel – had by the end of the second year confirmed to the Missionaries the confidence of the rulers, and began to secure to them decided marks of friendship.” (The entire text, here, is from CS Stewart.)

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Battle_of_Honolulu-Dolphin-(Massey)-1826
Battle_of_Honolulu-Dolphin-(Massey)-1826

Filed Under: Economy, General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: First Foreigners, Foreigners, Hawaii

December 13, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Clippers

“From the earliest colonial days, ship-building has been a favorite industry in America. The first vessel built within the present limits of the United States was the Virginia, a pinnace of thirty tons, constructed in 1601 by the Popham colonists”.

In the year 1668, the ship-building in New England, small as it may now seem, had become sufficiently important … of 1332 vessels registered as built In New England between 1674 and 1714, no less than 239 were built and sold to merchants abroad.”

“(T)he American vessels showed a marked superiority in point of speed over British men-of-war and merchant ships during (the American Revolution and War of 1812)”. Then came the clipper ship.

“The origin of the word clipper is not quite clear, though it seems to be derived from the verb clip, which in former times meant, among other things, to run or fly swiftly.”

“The word survived in the New England slang expressions ‘to clip it’ and ‘going at a good clip,’ or ‘a fast clip,’ are familiar expressions there to this day.”

“It therefore seems reasonable to suppose that when vessels of a new model were built, which were intended, in the language of the times, to clip over the waves rather than plough through them, the improved type of craft become known as clippers because of their speed.” (Clark)

The Clipper ship, generally either a schooner or a brigantine, was a classic sailing ship of the 19th century, renowned for its beauty, grace, and speed.

“The Clipper Ship Era began in 1843 as a result of growing demand for a more rapid delivery of tea from China (and) continued under the stimulating influence of the discovery of gold in California and Australia in 1849 and 1851”. (Clark)

Fast forward, and a new clipper made the scene across the Pacific – the flying boat. The flying boat dominated international airline service in the 1920s and 1930s.

As airplane travel became popular, Pan American Airlines asked for a long-range, four-engine flying boat. Pan Am chief Juan Trippe called the airplanes ‘clippers’ to link his airline with the maritime heritage of the world’s great ocean liners. (Pacific Aviation Museum)

In October, 1931, Pan Am introduced the Sikorsky S-40, the first American Clipper. When it began to fly, record after record was broken for performance in the air. (Horvat)

At the beginning of the decade, flying across oceans was a life-risking experience. However, beginning in 1936, Pan Am began to fly across the Pacific. (Pacific Aviation Museum)

On November 22, 1935, Postmaster General James A Farley and Mr Juan Trippe ordered Pilot Musick, commanding Pan Am’s China Clipper, to take off on the first airmail flight, by way of Hawai‘i and the other islands, on to its Manila destination.

Twenty thousand spectators were on hand to watch festivities at Alameda (on San Francisco Bay), all eyes on the immense silver airplane. They saw an estimated 110,000 pieces of mail weighing nearly two tons being stowed on board. (hawaii-gov)

First to make the Pacific crossings by way of Hawaii and other islands, through the years Pan American steadily increased its world services.

The first Martin Clippers were augmented in 1941 by larger Boeing Clippers. On November 16, 1945, Pan Am resumed commercial operations with their Boeing Clippers which had been leased to the Navy during the war. (Horvat)

Passenger numbers on a clipper depended on fuel needs and cargo–air mail and packages had priority. Usually only eight or nine passengers (sometimes fewer) flew on the long mainland-Hawaii hop. The clippers flew one trip a week in each direction.

“Her interior was like that of no other airplane,” reported journalist H. R. Ekins. “Her lounge… would seat 16 persons comfortably, leaving plenty of space in which to walk about.” The seaplane seemed to him “as roomy as the [airship] Hindenburg and as steady as a rock.”

The main cabin also served as a dining room. “It was a conventional supper–grapefruit, celery and olives, soup, steak, vegetables, salad, ice cream, cake and coffee,” wrote passenger Charles McKew Parr. “The captain acted as though we were his guests.” (Smithsonian)

The first paying passengers of the Pan American Hawaii Clipper included: Richard F. Bradley, San Francisco; Mrs. Zetta Averill, Aberdeen, WA; TF Ryan, III, San Francisco; Alfred Bennet, Hightstown, NJ; Col. Charles Bradley, Chicago; Mrs. Clara Adams, Philadelphia; and Wilbur May, Los Angeles. (hawaii-gov)

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Pan American -California Clipper' Honolulu-PP-1-5-001-1939
Pan American -California Clipper’ Honolulu-PP-1-5-001-1939
Sikorsky S-42 Clipper
Sikorsky S-42 Clipper
Sikorsky S-40. The exposed struts and wires caused Charles Lindbergh to call the plane a 'flying forest'
Sikorsky S-40. The exposed struts and wires caused Charles Lindbergh to call the plane a ‘flying forest’
Pan American Clipper afloat off seaplane ramp on Ford Island, Pearl Harbor-PP-1-7-007-April 20, 1935
Pan American Clipper afloat off seaplane ramp on Ford Island, Pearl Harbor-PP-1-7-007-April 20, 1935
Pan American Clipper on ramp being fueled-PP-1-7-002-1935
Pan American Clipper on ramp being fueled-PP-1-7-002-1935
Pan American Clipper flying over Waikiki with Diamond Head in background-PP-1-8-013-1935
Pan American Clipper flying over Waikiki with Diamond Head in background-PP-1-8-013-1935
Pan American Clipper in Middle Loch, Pearl Harbor-PP-1-8-015-1935
Pan American Clipper in Middle Loch, Pearl Harbor-PP-1-8-015-1935
Pan American Clipper afloat off Ford Island, Pearl Harbor-PP-1-7-001-1935
Pan American Clipper afloat off Ford Island, Pearl Harbor-PP-1-7-001-1935
Boeing 314 Dixie Clipper
Boeing 314 Dixie Clipper
Crowd inspecting the Pan American Clipper, Ford Island, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu-PP-1-7-011-April 20, 1935
Crowd inspecting the Pan American Clipper, Ford Island, Pearl Harbor, Honolulu-PP-1-7-011-April 20, 1935
Pan American Clipper in Pearl Harbor-PP-1-8-016-1935
Pan American Clipper in Pearl Harbor-PP-1-8-016-1935
Martin M-130 China Clipper
Martin M-130 China Clipper
Flight deck of Boeing 314
Flight deck of Boeing 314
B314-seat-map
B314-seat-map
Boeing 314 Flight Deck
Boeing 314 Flight Deck
B-314-cutaway-interior
B-314-cutaway-interior
Baltimore clipper Ann McKim
Baltimore clipper Ann McKim
The clipper Flying Cloud
The clipper Flying Cloud
The clipper ship Le-Rye-Moon, built for the opium trade
The clipper ship Le-Rye-Moon, built for the opium trade

Filed Under: General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Pan American, Aviation, Clipper

December 11, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Wa‘a Holo Honua

Throughout the years of late-prehistory, AD 1400s – 1700s, and through much of the 1800s, the canoe was a principal means of travel in ancient Hawai‘i. Canoes were used for interisland and inter-village coastal travel.

Most permanent villages initially were near the ocean and sheltered beaches, which provided access to good fishing grounds, as well as facilitating canoe travel between villages.

Although the canoe was a principal means of travel in ancient Hawaiʻi, extensive cross-country trail networks enabled gathering of food and water and harvesting of materials for shelter, clothing, medicine, religious observances and other necessities for survival.

Back then, land travel was only foot traffic, over little more than trails and pathways. These trails were usually narrow, following the topography of the land. Sometimes, over ‘a‘ā lava, they were paved with water-worn stones.

Things changed on June 21, 1803, when the Lelia Byrd, an American ship under Captain William Shaler (with commercial officer Richard Cleveland) arrived at Kealakekua Bay with two mares and a stallion on board.

George Kanahele suggests the early name for the horse was “wa‘a holo honua” (canoes that travel on land). Malo suggests they were called lio – “a large animal. Men sit upon his back and ride; he has no horns on his head.”

In the 1820s and 1830s, more horses were imported from California, and by the 1840s the use of introduced horses, mules and bullocks for transportation was increasing.

“(H)orses and cattle (became) numerous on Kauai because the foreigners had given many such to Kaumualiʻi. On O‘ahu there were only a few which had been brought in by John Young and Kamehameha from Kauai in 1809; afterwards more were brought in by Don Marin.” (Kamakau)

By the middle of the nineteenth century, riding on horseback had come to be both a common means of efficient travel and a common form of recreation and entertainment. The recreational aspect of horseback riding made the greatest appeal. Hawaiians became enthusiastic and expert equestrians. (Kuykendall)

Changes were made to the overland trails to accommodate horses, then were expanded to allow for the horse-drawn cart:
• Pre-contact/Early historical … Single-file footpath … Follow contours of coast
• 1820-1840 … Widened for one horse … Coastal – curbstones added
• 1820-1840 … Built in straight lines, inland
• 1841-1918 … Widened for two horses … Straight, leveled
• Late-1800s-early 1900s … Widened for horse cart … Straight, leveled

In the 1830s, King Kamehameha III initiated a program of island-wide improvements on the ala loa, and in 1847, a formal program for development of the alanui aupuni (government roads) was initiated.

Until the 1840s, overland travel was predominantly by foot and followed the traditional trails. By the 1840s, the use of introduced horses, mules and bullocks for transportation was increasing, and many traditional trails – the ala loa and mauka-makai trails within ahupua‘a – were modified by removing the smooth stepping stones that caused the animals to slip.

Eventually, wider, straighter trails were constructed to accommodate horse drawn carts. Unlike the earlier trails, these later trails could not conform to the natural, sometimes steep, terrain.

They often by-passed the traditional trails as more remote coastal villages became depopulated due to introduced diseases and the changing economic and social systems.

By the early 1850s, specific criteria were developed for realigning trails and roadways, including the straightening of alignments and development of causeways and bridges.

This system of roadwork, supervised by district overseers, and funded through government appropriations – with labor by prisoners and individuals unable to pay taxes in another way – evolved over the next 40 years.

Paved streets were unknown until 1881. In that year, Fort Street was macadamized (a paving process using aggregate layers of stone with a cementing agent binder – a process named after Scotsman John Loudon McAdam,) followed by Nu‘uanu Avenue.

In 1892, Queen Lili‘uokalani and the Legislature of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i signed into law an “Act Defining Highways, and Defining and Establishing Certain Routes and Duties in Connection Therewith,” to be known as The Highways Act, 1892.

Through this act, all roads, alleys, streets, ways, lanes, courts, places, trails and bridges in the Hawaiian Islands, whether laid out or built by the Government or by private parties were declared to be public highways.

Ownership was placed in the Government (typically, under the control of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, although recent legislation transferred O‘ahu ‘roads in limbo’ to the C&C.)

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Mamalahoa_Trail_as_horse_trail-1900s-(HMCS-NPS)
Mamalahoa_Trail_as_horse_trail-1900s-(HMCS-NPS)
Old_Honolulu_Courthouse-before-1875
Old_Honolulu_Courthouse-before-1875
Horse-Drawn_Trolley_on_Honoulu_Street-1900
Horse-Drawn_Trolley_on_Honoulu_Street-1900
Horse_Drawn_Trolley_and_Horse_Drawn_Carriage_Passing_on_Street-1900
Horse_Drawn_Trolley_and_Horse_Drawn_Carriage_Passing_on_Street-1900
Horse_drawn_tramcars,in_front_of_Aliiolani_Hale-Honolulu-1901
Horse_drawn_tramcars,in_front_of_Aliiolani_Hale-Honolulu-1901
Horse races were a popular activity at Kapi‘olani Park-(waikikivisitor-com)
Horse races were a popular activity at Kapi‘olani Park-(waikikivisitor-com)
Records of the Fire Dept show horses were used as early as April 1886. On Aug 15, 1891 a new steam engine arrived for Engine Co 1. The members of the company received the horses from merchants and tranined them for connection to the engine. Horses were not
Records of the Fire Dept show horses were used as early as April 1886. On Aug 15, 1891 a new steam engine arrived for Engine Co 1. The members of the company received the horses from merchants and tranined them for connection to the engine. Horses were not
Horse Drawn Buggies at Pali Lookout
Horse Drawn Buggies at Pali Lookout
Honolulu Horse Drawn Buggies
Honolulu Horse Drawn Buggies
The decorated buggy in foreground indicates a parade in progress in Honolulu, street unknown.
The decorated buggy in foreground indicates a parade in progress in Honolulu, street unknown.
Horse tethering ring-Hilo town along the curb of Kamehameha Avenue
Horse tethering ring-Hilo town along the curb of Kamehameha Avenue

Filed Under: General, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Canoe, Horse, William Shaler, Richard Cleveland, Waa Holo Honua

December 10, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Punalu‘u Hotel

The railroad from Punaluʻu to the village of Keaiwa (where the Pāhala Sugar Mill was located) was reported in June 1878 to be “the first railroad in these islands”. Railroads continued to operate in Kaʻū until the 1940s but the Pāhala – Punaluʻu railroad was discontinued in 1929. (Cultural Surveys)

Starting in the late-1800s, to get people and goods around the Islands, folks would catch steamer ships; competitors Wilder Steamship Co (1872) and Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co (1883) ran different routes, rather than engage in head to head competition.

For Inter-Island’s routes, vessels left Honolulu stopping at Lāhainā and Māʻalaea Bay on Maui and then proceeding directly to Kailua-Kona.

From Kailua, the steamer went south stopping at the Kona ports of Nāpoʻopoʻo on Kealakekua Bay, Hoʻokena, Hoʻopuloa, rounding South Point, touching at the Kaʻū port of Honuʻapo and finally arriving at Punaluʻu, Kaʻū, the terminus of the route. (From Punaluʻu, five mile railroad took passengers to Pāhala and then coaches hauled the visitors to the volcano from the Kaʻū side.)

The Punaluʻu Harbor and Landing served the communities of Punaluʻu and Nīnole and the sugar plantation at Pāhala and was considered the “port town for the district in 1880.” (Orr) By the mid-1880s Punaluʻu had storehouses, a restaurant, a store, and numerous homes constructed of lumber. (Cultural Surveys)

“The Interisland steamer W G Hall, 380 tons burthen, leaves Honolulu alternate Tuesdays and Fridays, at 10 A. M. She is one of the best sea boats plying in our waters, and tourists will find her accomodations and table equal to any, while her officers and stewards are ever on the alert to supply all their wants.”

“(T)he steamer at once proceeds to Punalu‘u, the terminus of the sea route. This is usually reached about 6 P. M. The passengers are landed in boats and will proceed to the Punalu‘u hotel, where they will find themselves comfortably taken care of.” (Whitney)

Peter Lee owned and operated the Punalu‘u hotel. He popularized the Punalu‘u-Pahala route to Kilauea. He built a 24-mile wagon road from Pahala to Kilauea, following by seven years the construction of a hotel at Punalu‘u, which then became a third takeoff point. (NPS)

“The hotel is clean, the table good, and the proprietor will be found very obliging and ready to afford any information required.” (Whitney)

Later, Lorrin Thurston became more interested in the Volcano … and the Volcano House and the Punalu‘u hotel, “In June 1890, I again visited Kilauea, and became so interested in it that I applied to Samuel G. Wilder, then head of Wilderʼs Steamship Co., who held leases of the Volcano House and site; I purchased some leases of him, and secured a new lease from the owner, the present Bishop Estate.”

“I also purchased a hotel at Punalu‘u from Peter Lee, and made him the manager of both hotels. A new company was formed; I got enough capital to remodel the Volcano House and to make additions so that it was much more commodious and attractive.”

“Formerly it had had only six bedrooms for visitors, a living room, a small dining room, a kitchen, and a room for the manager. The lumber and other materials for construction and repairs were shipped from Honolulu to Punalu‘u, whence they were hauled to Pahala by the plantation railroad, and thence to the volcano by the Hustace draying concern of Honolulu.”

The Paradise of the Pacific, noted, “Arrangements have been completed with the Wilderʼs Steamship Co. and the Inter-Island Com., so that a single round trip ticket can be obtained at the office of either Steamship Company for fifty dollars ($50) …”

“… which covers all room, meals, board and lodging at Hilo or Kau, transportation to and from the Volcano by either carriage or horse back, and board, lodging, steam sulphur baths and guide into the crater, at the Volcano.” (Maly)

“This ticket includes an absence from Honolulu, of eight days and gives five days on shore, which can be spent at any point the ticket-holder chooses, either at the Volcano, Hilo or Punalu‘u.”

“If the trip up to the volcano is made the day the steamer arrives, and return on the day she leaves, it allows four nights and three days at the volcano, or two days and two nights longer than heretofore allowed on this ticket.”

“Double route round trip tickets may also be obtained for seventy dollars ($70). This ticket includes all expenses covered by the other ticket and the holder may go by either the Hilo or Kau route and return by the other.”

“By taking this ticket an entire week may be spent at the Volcano, in a cool bracing climate, with invigorating sulphur baths at hand, and the Greatest Volcano on Earth in constant action in the front yard of the Hotel.” (Hawaiian Gazette, June 2, 1891)

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Punaluu village, Hawaii-S00084-1880
Punaluu village, Hawaii-S00084-1880

Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names Tagged With: Peter Lee, Punaluu Hotel, Hawaii, Volcano, Punaluu, Kau

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