General | Page 156 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

November 25, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Early Recollections of Missionary Life in Kailua, Hawaii

“As a settlement of some 4000 people crowded along one third mile of sea-shore, Kailua was the only place in Hawaii worthy the name of town, except perhaps the one at Hilo Bay.”

“Kailua consisted of native houses thatched either with pili or lauhala, the majority in various stages of decay. The aspect of the people was sordid, evincing ignorance, degredation, poverty and much ill health.”

“Here and there were dwellings of petty chiefs in whose yards were, cocoanut and kou trees of great luxuriance, as well as an occasional puhala.”

“When the pioneer missionaries in 1820 made their first landing at Kailua, it had recently been the chief residence of the aged Kamehameha, and was still in some degree the capital city of the group.”

“It was the permanent residence of Kuakini, the imperious Governor of the island, whose stone house stood at the north end beyond the little bay, which has always been the principal landing.”

“Beyond the Governor’s house, was Kamehameha’s old habitation where he died. Seaward still was a platform upon which stood five gigantic and hideous wooden idols, elaborately carved.”

“(These) had ceased to be worshipped but for some reason, probably respect for the deceased monarch, had escaped the general destruction of the idols in 1819.”

“I recall few names or faces of the native people. Very distinct in memory is the benevable face of a line old Christian lady Kekupuohi.”

“She had been a young wife of King Kalaniopuu, and had personally witnessed the death of the unfortunate Capt. James Cook, on the 4th of February, 1779, when he rashly attempted to force the King on board of his ship as a hostage.”

“I also well remember the immense and portly form of Governor Kuakini, who used to make a periodical foreonn visitation at our home, some times sitting at our table.”

“This royal chief was estimated to weigh not less than 500 pounds. The Governess Keoua, somewhat less ponderous, also of royal lineage frequently visited us.”

“Kuakini used to occupy my father’s large arm-chair into which he could hardly squeeze.”

“Missionary Work – I remember the Thurstons and Bishops as very busy in labors among the people. The two ministers held meetings twice on Sabbath in the immense thatched tabernacle at Kailua as well as every Wednesday afternoon.”

“The congregations in Kailua church were large, often over a thousand present. Sunday school was held after morning service, the natives having many copies of portions of scripture which they commit to memory quite diligently.”

“Much time was spent by Messrs. Thurston and Bishop in school work. They occupied many hours a week in personally teaching, and many more in superintending the work of the very incompetent native teachers whom they had trained and located in various districts.”

“Very great occasions indeed were the quarterly hoikes or school exhibitions, when, the schools and teachers assembled from the districts and displayed their proficiency in the presence of the Governor and the missionaries.” (Sereno Bishop; Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 23, 1897)

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November 20, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘The Longest Way Round Is Frequently The Shortest Way Home’

“(T)he distance between Panama and Yokohama, for example, via Honolulu, is greater than via San Francisco.” So why would ships stop in Hawai‘i?

“(S)hipping routes as well as lovers’ walks by moonlight, ‘the longest way round is frequently the shortest way home.’ The ‘short line’ argument ignores the fact that many things affect and decide routes of travel besides distance.”

“There are three distinct lines of steamer travel across the Pacific, north of the equator, between the American and the Asiatic continents. viz.:”

“(1) The southern route, via Hawai‘i, is in the northeast trade-wind belt, advertised by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company as the ‘Sunshine Belt,’ from the fact that the sun shines along this route during the great majority of the days of the year, and that the normal wind is a gentle breeze varying from ten to twenty knots an hour.”

“Since white men have visited them there has been nothing in the nature of a typhoon or hurricane in the Hawaiian Islands. Even heavy gales are few and far between. and fog is not known there.”

“The Hawaiian Islands and the surrounding ocean are the most favored spot, climatically, on earth.”

“(2) The northern route, from San Francisco, is along the Great Circle line. This is known as the ‘fog belt,’ for the reason that fog is prevalent there during the greater part of the year.”

“The prevailing wind along this line is from the west, and, as a rule. considerably stronger than the trade winds of the southern route. Violent storms are also prevalent along this line.”

“(3) The central route begins at San Francisco, but abandons the Great Circle route and its short distance of 4.536 miles, for a course considerably to the south thereof and making a distance to Yokohama of 4.791 miles, an increase in distance of 255 miles over the northern short line route. “

“This line is recommended by the hydrographic bureau at Washington to steamers crossing the Pacific from San Francisco. The object in taking this longer route is to escape the fog, violent winds and currents and storms of the northern route.”

“It is another demonstration that ‘The longest way round is the shortest way home.’”

“The foregoing demonstrates that although, theoretically, the northern route is 266 miles shorter than the southern, the route actually to be sailed is within eleven miles as long as the southern route.”

“Without looking for any further reasons, the supposed advantages of the northern ‘short line’ route disappear right here. All that remains to be done is to catalogue the many advantages which the southern route, via Hawaii, has over the northern route, via San Francisco.”

“The bulk of transpacific traffic will be carried on in comparatively low-powered freight steamers, making ten to twelve knots an hour, to whom boisterous weather conditions are a serious hindrance.”

“A few days of heavy weather, bucking head seas and winds, and the racing of the propeller as it is pitched up out of water, will use up far more fuel and time on the shorter rough route than will be expended on the longer but smoother route.”

“Stormy, rough weather is in every way detrimental to economical steaming; tends to rack, strain and otherwise injure the ship, with the possibility of wetting and otherwise injuring the cargo, regardless of what direction the wind is from.”

“Under these conditions, other things being equal, or even against a considerable handicap, the smooth water and gentle wind route will be chosen.”

“Practically all of the Pacific Mail and Japanese Mail line steamers plying between San Francisco and Yokohama now travel the ‘sunshine belt,’ via Honolulu, although it is 5,474 miles that way, instead of the direct, ‘fog belt’ route, although it is only 4,536 miles by that course. In other words they prefer a course which is 938 miles the longer.”

“To Hawaii oversea commerce, the arrival and departure of deep sea ships, is the alpha and omega of its commercial existence.”

“Everything that it imports and everything that it exports passes by sea. Every one who goes anywhere and every one who comes from anywhere travels by sea.”

“These conditions have created a habit of mind, a spirit and method of treatment of shipping that markedly characterizes Hawaiian ports.” (Thurston, History of the Panama Canal, 1915)

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November 18, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

My Mother Was A Daughter

“An organization to be known as the ‘Daughters of Hawaii’ was formed November 18, (1903) by Mrs. Emma Dillingham. Mrs. Sarah Colin Waters, Mrs. Lucinda Severance, Mrs. Ellen A. Weaver, Mrs. Annie A. Dickey, Mrs. Cornelia H. Jones and Miss Anna M. Paris.”

“Its object is ‘To perpetuate the memory spirit or old Hawaii and to preserve the nomenclature and correct pronunciation of the Hawaiian language.’”

“No one is eligible to membership who was not born in Hawaii of parents who came here before 1860.” (Hawaiian Star, December 7, 1903)

“The society, ‘Daughters of Hawaii,’ aims to number among its members, those who take an interest in the legends, traditions history and scientific discoveries relating to our native land.”

“Age seems to have a fascination with all who desire to trace an ancestry or recall historic events. Those who interest themselves along these special lines, find to their surprise, that according to the researches made by students of languages, customs and general evolution of races, the Hawaiian stands pre-eminent among the Polynesian people.”

“Not only have they no superior in the Pacific, but through the East Indies, on to the Malay Peninsula, in the vast country of India, and even to Arabia are there traces of their long descent.”

“Words, customs, legends leave no doubt of this fact. In the far time of their “beginning the ancestors were of white complexion, but climatic conditions, and inter mixture of bloods produced many variations during the centuries that followed.”

“It is the intent of this society to search the pages of the past, and glean all possible information relative to the long procession of events which have resulted in the Hawaiian of today. It is impossible to give even a synopsis of these possibilities in these few remarks, but the amazing genealogies of the Hawaiian families will support these intimations.”

“Our society is still young. Not a year has passed since we first met, a little band, as Daughters of Hawaii. The need of some fitting recognition of our birth-right in this fair land …”

“… a something that should redeem from oblivion a past swiftly fleeting, unique in its charm and teeming with memories almost sacred – had long been felt by some of us. It needed the supreme moment to give it life.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, November 26, 1904)

In addition to their group meetings, with music and reading historical accounts, the Daughters placed plaques and included historical stories of interest in the local newspaper. There are early interest in the Pali at Nu‘uanu.

That expanded into other areas in Nu‘uanu … A notice in the Pacific Commercial Advertiser (November 11, 1890) noted that the government Water Works department purchased Hānaiakamalama (Queen Emma Summer Place) for $8,000.

It was acquired “for the special purpose of a site for establishing (water system) filter beds, and a distributing reservoir for the city, which was looked upon then as one of the much-needed public works recognized, as a public necessity by the then administration.”

“The scheme then under consideration and practically settled upon was part of the plans in connection with the storage reservoir above Luakaha, for the increased capacity of the Nuʻuanu system.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, April 30, 1906)

The water works plan waned and thoughts of a park at the site were considered; there was, reportedly, a proposal to tear down the house and put in a baseball diamond.

However, “Governor Carter has expressed his disapproval of the retention of the Queen Emma property in Upper Nuʻuanu valley for park purposes in a letter to the secretary of the Improvement Club in that district, which passed resolutions urging that that be done.”

“I beg to say that I do not approve of the setting aside as a public park of the Hānaiakamalama premises, for the following reasons: First. Public parks are for the relief of thickly populated districts, where the congestion is such that the residents do not have breathing spaces … “

“… Second. The taxpayers are contributing at present about all they can stand and this is not sufficient to properly take care of all those areas that are already parked.” (Carter, Pacific Commercial Advertiser, September 6, 1906)

On May 12, 1906, The Pacific Commercial Advertiser noticed, “there will be sold at Public Auction … the following certain portions of land situate in the District of Kona, Island of Oahu, TH: … The land known as ‘Hānaiakamalama’ or the ‘Queen Emma Place’ (upset price of $10,000, possession given September 1, 1906.)”

Hānaiakamalama (Queen Emma Summer Palace) was saved from demolition by the Daughters of Hawaiʻi. Almost immediately, the newspaper announced, “Rules and regulations bearing on Hānaiakamalama, the Nuʻuanu home of the late Queen Emma, were adopted at a meeting on Wednesday of the Daughters of Hawai‘i, which society now has charge of the home.” .” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, October 19, 1916)

In addition to Hānaiakamalama, the Daughters own and maintain Kamehameha III’s birth site at Keauhou Bay, Kona. Through an agreement with the State of Hawaiʻi, the Daughters use and maintain Huliheʻe Palace in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island.

Shortly after King Kalākaua finished building ʻIolani Palace in Honolulu (1882,) he purchased Huliheʻe from Bernice Pauahi Bishops’s estate in 1885 and turned Huliheʻe into his summer residence.

He completed some major renovations so that the palace would more closely resemble the modern structures he saw during his travels. He stuccoed the entire lava rock exterior and plastered over the koa-paneled walls. He felt that the palace was outdated and that these renovations were necessary so that Hawai’i could portray itself to the world as a modern society.

The same year he finished renovation to Huliheʻe (1887,) Kalākaua, under threat of force, signed the ‘Bayonet Constitution.’ The King spent the majority of his time at Huliheʻe Palace after he signed the new constitution.

He continued to make improvements to Huliheʻe while living there and had a telephone line installed in the palace in 1888, which was one of the first telephones on the island of Hawai’i. He continued to entertain foreign visitors at the palace.

Kalākaua died in 1891 and his wife, Queen Kapiʻolani, inherited the palace. Kapiʻolani resided at Huliheʻe throughout the period of the subsequent overthrow.

Upon her death in 1899, the property went to her nephews, Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole and Prince David Kawānanakoa. Fifteen years after the Princes inherited the palace they sold it to a wealthy woman, Mrs Bathsheba Alien, for $8,600. (She died just one month after the transaction.)

For years the property sat vacant and eventually fell into a state of disrepair. In 1925, the Territory of Hawaiʻi purchased the property then turned it over to the Daughters of Hawaiʻi to run it as a museum (which they continue to do today.)
All of these sites are worth visiting and the Daughters of Hawai‘i is worth supporting.

Today, membership is open to any woman who a) has a direct lineage to, or b) has been legally adopted by, a resident of Hawai‘i in or prior to 1880, without restriction as to race. In 1986, membership to the Daughters of Hawai‘i opened and expanded with the Calabash Cousins.

My mother was the great-great granddaughter of Hiram Bingham; she was a Daughter. One of the photos is her Daughters feather lei (Daughters wear white mu‘umu‘u and feather lei.) (The lei was the thing of hers I wanted when she passed away, I am glad my sisters let me have it – I had it framed, it has a prominent place in our home.)

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Hulihee_Palace,_c._1885,_with_the_kitchen_to_the_left

Hulihee_Palace,_before 1884

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Queen_Emma_Summer_Palace_(Hanaiakamalama) 1875

Queen_Emma_Summer_Palace_(Hanaiakamalama) circa 1890

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November 17, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Makāluapuna

According to oral tradition, Piʻilani unified the entire island of Maui, bringing together under one rule the formerly-competing eastern (Hāna) and western (Wailuku) multi-district kingdoms of the Island. In the 1500s, Chief Piʻilani (“stairway to heaven”) ruled in peace and prosperity.

The traditional moku (district) of Kāʻanapali consisted of five major stream valleys Honokōwai, Kahana, Honokahua, Honolua and Honokōhau).

Six West Maui bays were a place Pi‘Ilani frequented. Collectively, these picturesque and productive bays are called Nā Hono A Piʻilani, The Bays of Piʻilani (aka Honoapiʻilani.)

From South to North they are: Honokōwai (bay drawing fresh water), Honokeana (cave bay), Honokahua (sites bay,) Honolua (two bays), Honokōhau (bay drawing dew) and Hononana (animated bay).

All were extensively terraced for wet taro (loʻi) in early historic and later times. Honokahua Valley has been described as having loʻi lands. Sweet potatoes were reportedly grown between the Honokohau and Kahakuloa Ahupuaʻa.

Oneloa and Honokahua Bays were once joined as one larger bay. However, during the time of Honolua eruptions (Pleistocene Period, 2.6-million to 11,700 years ago), lava formed Makāluapuna Point (Lit., spring hole (as for planting taro)), creating two bays. (Kyselka & Lanteman)

The pineapple plantation village of Honokahua was behind Makāluapuna Point. Farther up, the double lines of Norfolk pines was the plantation house of Pineapple Hill. (Kyselka & Lanteman)

Makāluapuna Point has an interesting lava formation that has earned the name, Dragon’s Teeth. It is a unique lava flow that was influenced by high waves as the ancient lava flow hit the ocean.

The wave energy at the time of the flowing lava was strong enough to curl up the edges of the lava before it cooled leaving these unique giant tooth-like structures.

In addition, there is a labyrinth. Labyrinths are tools for walking meditation and spiritual growth. They are based on patterns that date back thousands of years and have roots in many cultures and traditions.

What seems like a maze or simple ring of concentric circles is actually a pattern with a purpose. The many turns on the labyrinth’s one path reflect the journey of life, which involves changes of direction, transition, realization and attainment.

Makāluapuna Point on the Kapalua coast is the home of Maui’s largest labyrinth. Built by an anonymous builder, the white coral labyrinth was constructed as a peace project in 2005. (Schumacher, Lāhainā News)

In 1962, Maui Land & Pineapple Company, Inc. was formed when Baldwin Packers merged with Maui Pineapple Company. Maui Land & Pine created the wholly-owned subsidiary named Kapalua Land Company, Ltd., which conceived of and developed the master-planned Kapalua Resort featuring the Kapalua Bay Hotel at the shore of Honokahua ahupuaʻa.

The hotel opened in 1978, beginning the change of the former ranch and pineapple lands of Honokahua into a world-class destination resort complex.

Mauka of Makāluapuna Point, starting in 1987, to prepare for proposed ocean-side construction of the Ritz Carlton at Kapalua more than 900 ancestral native Hawaiian burials were excavated from sand dunes at Honokahua, Maui. When the extent of the burials became more widely known, native Hawaiians from around the state staged protests.

Eventually a plan was devised in September 1989 for the proper reburial of the native Hawaiian remains disinterred. Associated with that, the state paid $6-million for a perpetual preservation easement and restoration of the burial site. A 14-acre site is now a historical and cultural landmark.

In addition, as a result of this, Hawaiʻi’s burial treatment law, passed in 1990, gives unmarked burials, most of which are native Hawaiian, the same protection as modern cemeteries. The law:
• Burial Sites Program was set up within DLNR’s Historic Preservation Division
• Burial Councils were set up at Kaua’i-Ni’ihau, O’ahu, Maui-Lānaʻi, Molokaʻi and Big Island
• Procedures to deal with the inadvertent discovery of human skeletal remains were established
• If human remains are found during a construction project, construction, there stops and if the remains appear to have been buried 50 or more years, procedures were established to preserve them in place or relocate them
• Provided penalties for unauthorized alteration, excavation or destruction of unmarked burial sites

“Honokahua changed the history of Hawaiʻi. They have set precedent that we will never ever go back to this complacency and complete disregard for the iwi of our kupuna.”

“Honokahua has created the laws, Honokahua is the law, this stands as the kahili (feather standard, a sign of royalty) for all burial sites from here on to perpetuity. This is the battleground, this is the piko (navel, umbilical cord) of these new laws.” (Naeole, DLNR)

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November 12, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

The Old House in the Fort

On O‘ahu, in 1815, Kamehameha I granted Russian representatives permission to build a storehouse near Honolulu Harbor. But, instead, directed by the German adventurer Georg Schaffer (1779-1836,) they began building a fort and raised the Russian flag.

They built their blockhouse near the harbor, against the ancient heiau of Pākākā and close to the King’s complex. There are reports that the Russians used stones from Pākākā in building their facility.

As a side note, Pākākā was the site of Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i’s negotiations relinquishing power to Kamehameha I, instead of going to war, and pledged allegiance to Kamehameha, a few years earlier in 1810.

When Kamehameha discovered the Russians were building a fort (rather than storehouses) and had raised the Russian flag, he sent several chiefs, along with John Young (his advisor,) to remove the Russians from Oʻahu by force, if necessary.

The Russian personnel judiciously chose to sail for Kauai instead of risking bloodshed. On Kauai, there they were given land by Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i; the Russian Fort Elizabeth was built soon after on Kauai.

The partially built blockhouse at Honolulu was finished by Hawaiians under the direction of John Young and mounted guns protected the fort. Its original purpose was to protect Honolulu by keeping enemy or otherwise undesirable ships out. But, it was also used to keep things in (it also served as a prison.)

By 1830, the fort had 40 guns mounted on the parapets all of various calibers (6, 8, 12 and probably a few 32 pounders.) Fort Kekuanohu literally means ‘the back of the scorpion fish,’ as in ‘thorny back,’ because of the rising guns on the walls. In 1838 there were 52 guns reported.

The fort protected Honolulu Harbor and also housed a number of administrative functions, including many years of service as Honolulu’s police headquarters. The first courts of the islands were held here until a new courthouse was built in 1853, adjacent to the fort.

Then the fort was taken down and the prison moved. A prison was built in 1856-57 at Iwilei; it took the place of the old Fort Kekuanohu. The new custom-house was completed in 1860. The water-works were much enlarged, and a system of pipes laid down in 1861.

Between 1857 and 1870, the coral block walls of the dismantled Fort edged and filled about 22-acres of reef and tideland, forming the ‘Esplanade’ or ‘Ainahou,’ between Fort and Merchant Streets (where Aloha Tower is now located.) At that time, the harbor was dredged to a depth from 20 to 25-feet took place.

The following are reminiscences of the old house in the fort. “In the course of demolishing the ‘Fort’ of Honolulu, now going on, the old stone house, formerly occupied by the Governor, is sharing the fate of the surrounding walls and fast ‘hiding its diminished head.’”

“It was built in 1831, by Governor John Adams Kuakini, (a High Chief, and Governor of the Island of Hawaii from 1820 till his death in 1845,) and was the residence of Governor Kekūanāo‘a until the French ‘raid’ in 1849 …”

“… when he gave it up to the ‘brave Poursuivantes,’ who amused themselves by breaking calabashes, making charcoal sketches on the walls, and recording on them their own praises.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 1, 1857 & Thrum’s Annual, 1931)

“While the Government was trying to arrange matters, and while the prime minister was on board the French man-of-war, a squad of soldiers was sent ashore, who took possession of the fort, dismantled the guns, threw them into the harbor, went to Governor Kekūanāo’a’s house, smashed the furniture, and threw it into the yard.” (Lee)

“When, after wreaking their vengeance on the guns and calabashes the French retired to their ships, the Governor disdained again to occupy his desecrated domicile, and it has been used since as a barrack and partly as a prison until the other day, when it was again evacuated for the new prison at Leleo.”

“Many recollections cluster around ‘the old house in the Fort,’ and had we a poet laureate attached to our staff of Government officials, we should seriously recommend the composition of an elegy on this occasion.”

“Here, in bygone days, all who intended to commit matrimony must present themselves before the stern old Governor for his consent to the banns …”

“… here taxes were paid, in poi, fish, tapas, sandalwood and dollars here captains came for permission to ship sailors and far help to catch runaways …”

“… here criminals and offenders of all sorts were summarily disposed of in the ‘good old times’ when we had little law and less equity …”

“… in short, here was transacted all and every kind of Government business, for then the ‘Governor’ was the factotum of the powers that be …”

“… and certainly, in the matter of simplicity and economy, we cannot confidently assert that the present routine is an improvement of the old.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 1, 1857 & Thrum’s Annual, 1931)

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No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)