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December 2, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ho‘okipa

Haʻaheo ʻiʻo nō e Hoʻokipa Pāka
Kahi a ka lehulehu
E kipa a hoʻonanea
Nanea mai hoʻi kau

Nanea mai hoi kau ke noho ʻoe la
Malalo o ka lau o ka hau la
Kahi e malu aʻe ʻoe
He malu ʻolu ʻai ʻoe

He nani iʻo no keʻ`ike aku la
I ka papa heʻenalu
Heʻe ana i ka pue one
He one kaulana no

Pulu au i ka huna kai kai heʻʻeheʻe i ka `ili
Ame ka ehu kai kilikilihune
A konikoni i ka ʻili
Huʻi kona au maʻaʻele

E ō i kou inoa Hoʻokipa Pāka
Kahi a ka lehulehu
E kipa a hoʻonanea
Nanea mai hoʻi kau

Proud of Welcome Park, over there
Place where the crowd
Is welcome to rest
Come, rest here for a while

Rest here a while, stay
Under the hau tree leaf
Where you have shade
Cool shade, you’ll enjoy

It’s splendid there to see
The surfboards
Surfing to the sandbar
It’s a famous beach

I am damp with sea spray that drips on the skin
And the fine salt mist
Makes the skin tingle
I tingle chilly and numb

Answer to your name, Welcome Park
Place where the crowd
Is welcome to stay
Come, rest here for a while

(Ho‘okipa Pāka, Alice Johnson)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Trr39Pg1chk

“In 1936 my family moved from Lower Pāʻia to Kūʻau. I was singing with the Royal Hawaiian Band, but in 1937 I left them to come home. One day my sister and I decided to walk over to the park. We were curious to see what it looked like.”

“A friend of ours was the park keeper, and when we arrived, she had just finished her poi lunch and had fallen asleep under the hau trees. The peacefulness and beauty of the entire scene inspired me to write ‘Hoʻokipa Park Hula.’”

“The kids from Lower Pāʻia and Kūʻau were already surfing here, so I mentioned surfing in the song. The ʻ46 tidal wave destroyed the area and completely changed it. The wide beach and many of the hau trees were lost, and the high wall there today was built to prevent further damage.” (Alice Johnson, January 27, 1978; Clark)

“Surfing on Maui really came into prominence with the formation of the first ‘Ho‘okipa Surfriders Club’ at Ho‘okipa Park some 25 years ago (1935). Meetings were held each month at the Ho‘okipa Park Pavilion and the County of Mui erected a surfboard locker to hold 50 surfboards.”

“Surfing was then confined to just Ho‘okipa Park and Kahului Harbor and the surfboards used then were made of solid redwood weighing from 60 to 75 pounds each. Then years later the hollow surfboards made of plywood became very popular.”

“These too were quite heavy but they were longer than the redwood type and much easier to pick up waves. On Kamehameha Day in the year 1939, surfboard paddling races were held between the piers at Kahului Harbor.”

“Surfing died off for awhile on Maui until the Meheulas moved to Maui from Honolulu and introduced the new Malibu type balsa wood boards. This type proved to be very popular and today (1960) there are over a hundred of these boards on the island.”

“They are very light compared to the oldtime surfboards and thereby faster on the bigger waves and their maneuverability were terrific. Surfing thus came to be more exciting and thrilling and the challenge on bigger waves became greater.”

“Today there are over 18 surfing beaches on Maui and Ho‘okipa is rated by the Californians to be one of the best anywhere.” (Uchimura, June 18, 1960; info from Lind)

“Maui Agriculture leased the land for the park to the County of Maui in 1933 and in a land exchange conveyed title to the Territory of Hawai’i in 1947. The name Ho’okipa means ‘hospitality.’”

“The surf offshore from Ho’okipa Beach Park provides surfers with waves almost all year round, as the reefs pick up both summer and winter swells. The most spectacular waves, however, occur during the winter and often reach heights of ten to fifteen feet.”

“This tremendous surf is some of the best on Maui. … A small building that served as a clubhouse and a set of surfboard racks were donated and constructed in the park by Harold Rice”

“Foremost among the charter members were two brothers, Donald and Teruo Uchimura, who have both been avid surfers as well as great promoters of the sport of surfing since the founding of the club.” (Clark)

In the early 1970s, windsurfing was introduced to Hawai‘i. (Clark) Today, Ho‘okipa Beach Park remains the epicenter of the windsurfing world.

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Maui Surfers-1st Annual Lahaina Invitation-1960-Lind.jpg
Maui Surfers-1st Annual Lahaina Invitation-1960-Lind.jpg
Hookipa Wave
Hookipa Wave
Hookia Surf-YouTube
Hookia Surf-YouTube
WindsurfHookipa-WC
WindsurfHookipa-WC

Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names Tagged With: Surf, Hookipa, Windsurfing, Hawaii, Maui, Surfing

November 28, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kahuā

“Kahuā means the beginning, the source, the foundation and this is what our property has been built on.” (Monty Richards)

Another meaning of the word Kahuā is place of encampment. This definition makes historic sense because Kamehameha I trained his warriors for battle on the steep slopes of cinder cones near Kahuā’s main ranch house. Also, the ranch may have been named after a star, kahu‘a.

Kahuā 1 was awarded to Lot Kapuāiwa (later Kamehameha V) and Kahuā 2 was awarded to his sister, Victoria Kamāmalu. Cattle have probably been found on the lands of Kahuā for 100 years or more. About 1880 the lands were controlled by Allen and Stackpole. (UH)

“The main house on (the) Ranch is over a hundred years old and there aren’t many of these old places left around here. The original house was built around 1870 or 1880.” (Monty Richards)

On January 1, 1879, Queen Emma signed a lease with Allen and Stackpole for nearby land at Kawaihae; a new agreement was signed on July 1st, 1883.

Kahuā Ranch had its beginnings with George Frederick Holmes at about the 3000’ elevation. In April 1886, the Ranch was purchased by three English brothers, Godfrey, Ernest and Fred Burchardt, and John McGuire, “partners under the style of the Kahuā Ranch Company”. (Hawai‘i Supreme Court)

In 1891, Maguire bought out the Burchardt share of the ranch, when they returned to England. In 1895, Maguire sold a half interest in the property to Frank Woods, who later purchased the remaining interest.

Frank Woods invested heavily in a new scheme to turn Kahuā into a sugar plantation. What he needed was water, and he knew where to get it.

About ten years earlier, Kohala sugar planters built Kehena Ditch to funnel water from the mountain forests above Pololu Valley to their thirsty plantations along the coast.

Kahuā had the right to siphon off a little water, but Woods planned a major waterway, some eight feet wide and four feet deep, capable of diverting a virtual river of water his way.

Woods was within one hundred feet of tapping into the Kehena Ditch when the Kohala sugar planters, alarmed and angry, stopped him. Woods was not able to keep the ranch.

Ronald von Holt had been ranching at Hono‘uli‘uli on the Ewa Plain for Oahu Railway & Land Company. His grandfather, Hermann von Holt from Hamburg, arrived in Hawai’i in 1851 and stayed to open a successful store.

Ronald wanted to get into ranching on his own and was looking for a start. Atherton Richards was also searching for a ranching opportunity, preferably on an outer island.

When news of Frank Woods’ dilemma reached O’ahu, Ronald approached Atherton Richards about the possibility of buying Kahuā Ranch.

Ronald Von Holt partnered with brothers Atherton Richards and Herbert Montague Richards, to buy Kahuā and the lease in 1928. They named it Kahuā Ranch Limited.

Ronald Von Holt was grandson of a German immigrant to Hawai‘i. Brothers Atherton Richards and Herbert Montague Richards were grandsons of an early missionary pioneer to Hawaii.

Herbert Montague Richards, moved up to Kahuā with his wife to try his hand at ranching. In 1929, Herbert Montague ‘Monty’ Richards, Jr. was born at Kahuā, and Ronald von Holt was asked to be his godfather.

Although the Richards family returned to Honolulu in 1931 when Monty was just a youngster, he enjoyed summer visits at the big ranch house later in his childhood.

“In 1956, Atherton Richards moved to Kahuā to manage the ranch. After two years, he turned the operation over to Monty who has skillfully run the ranch ever since. With his trademark sweatshirt, baseball cap, suspenders and ever-present radio, Monty Richards has pushed Kahuā well into the next century.”

“A first time visitor to Kahuā Ranch has a difficult time knowing what to look at — the gorgeous cattle, the woolly sheep, the greenhouses filled with carnations and lettuce, or the spinning windmills generating electricity for the entire ‘Kahuā village.’”

“Soon there will be a Ranch Store (housed in a converted slaughterhouse), a pistol range and a spanking new Paniolo Porch for tour group picnics and ranch parties.”

“‘Monty is a very open, diversified thinker,’ said Pono von Holt, talking about his former boss. ‘That’s how Kahuā ended up with sheep, wind farms and tomatoes.’” (Melrose)

In the mid 1980s the IRS stated that a single business must have a single corporate structure and the families decided to split the ranch to become Kahuā Ranch Ltd and Ponoholo Ranch Ltd. Both ranches still work together in operations as well as joint ventures. (Kahuā) (Monty Richards recently passed away.)

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Kahua_Ranch_logo
Kahua_Ranch_logo

Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Kahua Ranch, Atherton Richards, Ronald von Holt, Frank Woods, Hawaii, Kahua

November 27, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘Bingham Kick’

Football got an early start in America, “Colonists kicked and threw inflated bladders or sawdust-filled leather balls around long before they decided to fire on the whites of the redcoats’ blue eyes.”

“(B)y the latter part of the 18th Century, football had found its way onto the college campuses. Infrequent matches joined fisticuffs (and) wrestling”.

As happened at England schools, each American school developed its own form of the sport. “Early games appear to have had much in common with the traditional ‘mob football’ played in England. The games remained largely unorganized until the 19th century, when intramural games of football began to be played on college campuses.” (Smith)

At Princeton, they were playing a version called ‘ballown’ by 1820. At Harvard, the entire freshman and sophomore classes constituted sides for ‘rushes’ in which a soccer ball was used.

Yale and others each had individual variations. Yale students by 1840 were staging soccer rushes on the New Haven Green. The American style of play resembled circa medieval. The young gentlemen attacked each other in most ungentlemanly ways. (PFRA Research)

“The New York Evening Post was moved to observe that one such game would ‘make the same impression on the public mind as a bull fight. Boys and young men knocked each other down, tore off each other’s clothing. Eyes were bunged, faces blacked and bloody, and shirts and coats torn to rags.’” (PFRA Research)

A notable football-related moment at Yale was when Hiram Bingham Jr, who demonstrated skill not only in academic pursuits but in sporting achievements as well, became the first student to kick a football over the old courthouse on the New Haven green (it became known as the ‘Bingham Kick’).

This wasn’t his only athletic achievement. On one college vacation he paddled a canoe down the Connecticut River from the Canadian border, three hundred miles to Long Island Sound.

“These pursuits satisfied not only his sense of adventure but, more importantly, his need for achievement and attention from others. It was also, however, a reflection of the age in general, when a young man was expected to compete and achieve success.” (Rennie)

His parents had worried from an early age, that ‘he does not often enough think of his Savior,’ and that he was growing up without being governed by ‘the principles and feelings of a renewed nature’ – which presumably meant he did not at all times have a proper sense of guilt.” (Bingham)

Hiram Bingham Jr was the son of Rev. Hiram Bingham, who with Rev. Asa Thurston led the first company of missionaries to thes Islands in 1820. With his parents and sisters he came to America in 1840 and prepared for college at New Haven.

The younger Bingham was born in Honolulu, August 16, 1831, in the old Mission home which still stands on King street; he was probably the first Hawaii-born Yale graduate.

He entered Yale University in 1850. By this time, he had reached his full height of six feet four inches. The liberal arts course at Yale was of four years’ duration.

In the first three years, the students took Greek, Latin, Mathematics and a smattering of Geography, History, Science, Astronomy, English Expression and Rhetoric.

The Senior year concentrated more on Metaphysics, Ethics, Natural Theology and Moral Philosophy. The course was structured ‘not to teach that which is peculiar to any one of the professions, but to lay the foundation which is common to them all’.

By the 1850s Yale was becoming increasingly conservative. Its identity with the religious life of the country was also waning. Bingham won first prize for his studies in Astronomy in 1853.

At this stage, there was no conflict between science and religion. Charles Darwin did not publish his Origin of the Species until 1859. Not until the following year did public debate erupt when on June 30, 1860 Thomas Henry Huxley, defender of Darwinism, confronted Bishop Samuel Wilberforce. (Rennie)

At his commencement in 1853, Bingham delivered an honors oration, ‘Civilization and Destiny of the Hawaiian Islands.’

Hiram studied theology at Andover Seminary and in October 1856 was ordained and married to Minerva Clarissa Brewster, a teacher in Northampton. He took a missionary post in the Gilbert Islands, in the western Pacific.

The couple worked there until they returned to Hawai‘i in 1875, where their son was born. Hiram III graduated from Yale in 1898 and later became Yale’s first professor of South American history, gaining worldwide fame for his exploration of Machu Picchu. (Yale Alumni Mag)

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Hiram_and_Clara_Brewster_Bingham_in_1887

Filed Under: Economy, General, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, Hiram Bingham II, Yale, Football, Bingham Kick

November 26, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Lighthouses

The origin of the Pacific Ocean Division of the US Army Corps of Engineers goes back to 1905 when Lieutenant John R. Slattery became the first Honolulu District Engineer.

In the early years the District constructed lighthouses and improved harbors in the Territory of Hawaii and erected seacoast fortifications for the defense of Honolulu and Pearl harbors on the island of Oahu.

The direct cause of assigning a Corps of Engineers’ officer to Hawaii was neither river and harbor improvements nor construction of fortifications. Lieutenant John R. Slattery, four years out of West Point, arrived in Honolulu in February 1904 because Hawaii had been found “woefully deficient” in lighthouses.

This conclusion had been reached by the U.S. Senate Subcommittee on Pacific Islands and Puerto Rico during its investigation of the condition of lighthouses and other federal matters in the Territory in 1903.

The Corps of Engineers’ responsibilities concerning lights and other aids to navigation had begun in 1852. Because of past problems in the Treasury Department office responsible for the construction and operation of lights, the Congress had authorized the creation of a Lighthouse Board that year.

The coasts of the United States were divided into districts, of which the Pacific Coast became the Twelfth Lighthouse District with its office in San Francisco.

The Army Engineer assigned to the Twelfth District had responsibilities in the construction, inspection, and maintenance of aids to navigation from the Canadian to the Mexican border.

In the early days at San Francisco, this officer was at times the San Francisco Engineer District Officer and at times the staff engineer assigned to the U.S. Army’s Department of California.

By 1903, however, lighthouse duties had become so complex that an Army Engineer, at this time Lieutenant Colonel Thomas H. Handbury, with a staff of his own, had become the Twelfth Lighthouse District Engineer.

Unlike San Francisco Bay, the ports of Hawaii do not experience navigational problems caused by fog. Early efforts in Hawaii to aid seamen were centered on the erection of lights at harbor entrances and at a few dangerous points of land near sea lanes.

Most of these lights were “fixed,” that is, steady beams of light with no revolving apparatus, and were low-powered and of short range.

Of an estimated 35 lights in the islands before aids to navigation became a United States responsibility in 1904, 19 had been erected by the Hawaiian government and the other 16 were privately owned.

The first light to be erected is said to have been at the port of Kawaihae on the northwest coast of Hawaii. Privately owned, it was lit in 1859 to guide whaling vessels into the harbor. Another port heavily used by whalers was the Lahaina Roadstead, Maui.

As many as 500 whaling vessels could be found there at one time in the heyday of the industry —much to the disgust of the missionaries on shore. In 1866, a small light was erected at Lahaina whose beam was visible six miles to sea.

Vessels entering Honolulu Harbor were assisted by two lights that were erected in 1869. The kingdom’s Interior Department reported at that time that a frame lighthouse had been constructed on the west reef at the inner end of the entrance channel.

It was supplied with an up-to-date Fresnel light of the fourth order, placed 25 feet above the high-water mark, and visible at a distance of ten miles.

Vessels entering at night determined the location of the entrance to the channel by lining this light up with a second one mounted on a tower on the Esplanade (later on top of the custom house). As the port grew, sea captains complained that they could not distinguish this light from others in the neighborhood. Perhaps that is why a red cloth was tied around it.
The south shore of Oahu was further marked by the erection of other lights: at Barbers Point to the west of Honolulu in 1888, and at Diamond Head around 1892.

Also at Diamond Head was a lookout station for reporting arriving ships to Honolulu (all ships sailing to Honolulu from the Pacific Coast passed through the channel separating Oahu and Molokai, past Diamond Head, and on to Honolulu). The lookout stationed at Diamond Head in 1902 was named Charles Peterson, but known to all as ‘Diamond Head Charlie.’

While the lights in the Hawaiian Islands were not as far advanced, it should be noted that the first American lighthouse on the Pacific Coast was not lit until 1854 – only five years before the Kawaihae light.

Nor did annexation bring immediate improvement to Hawaii’s aids to navigation; six more years passed before the United States Lighthouse Board (including Army Engineers) assumed responsibility for them. (All here is from Thompson and his History of the Army Corps.)

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Honolulu Harbor Light-1880s
Honolulu Harbor Light-1880s

Filed Under: General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Kawaihae, Lighthouse

November 20, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘The Longest Way Round Is Frequently The Shortest Way Home’

“(T)he distance between Panama and Yokohama, for example, via Honolulu, is greater than via San Francisco.” So why would ships stop in Hawai‘i?

“(S)hipping routes as well as lovers’ walks by moonlight, ‘the longest way round is frequently the shortest way home.’ The ‘short line’ argument ignores the fact that many things affect and decide routes of travel besides distance.”

“There are three distinct lines of steamer travel across the Pacific, north of the equator, between the American and the Asiatic continents. viz.:”

“(1) The southern route, via Hawai‘i, is in the northeast trade-wind belt, advertised by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company as the ‘Sunshine Belt,’ from the fact that the sun shines along this route during the great majority of the days of the year, and that the normal wind is a gentle breeze varying from ten to twenty knots an hour.”

“Since white men have visited them there has been nothing in the nature of a typhoon or hurricane in the Hawaiian Islands. Even heavy gales are few and far between. and fog is not known there.”

“The Hawaiian Islands and the surrounding ocean are the most favored spot, climatically, on earth.”

“(2) The northern route, from San Francisco, is along the Great Circle line. This is known as the ‘fog belt,’ for the reason that fog is prevalent there during the greater part of the year.”

“The prevailing wind along this line is from the west, and, as a rule. considerably stronger than the trade winds of the southern route. Violent storms are also prevalent along this line.”

“(3) The central route begins at San Francisco, but abandons the Great Circle route and its short distance of 4.536 miles, for a course considerably to the south thereof and making a distance to Yokohama of 4.791 miles, an increase in distance of 255 miles over the northern short line route. “

“This line is recommended by the hydrographic bureau at Washington to steamers crossing the Pacific from San Francisco. The object in taking this longer route is to escape the fog, violent winds and currents and storms of the northern route.”

“It is another demonstration that ‘The longest way round is the shortest way home.’”

“The foregoing demonstrates that although, theoretically, the northern route is 266 miles shorter than the southern, the route actually to be sailed is within eleven miles as long as the southern route.”

“Without looking for any further reasons, the supposed advantages of the northern ‘short line’ route disappear right here. All that remains to be done is to catalogue the many advantages which the southern route, via Hawaii, has over the northern route, via San Francisco.”

“The bulk of transpacific traffic will be carried on in comparatively low-powered freight steamers, making ten to twelve knots an hour, to whom boisterous weather conditions are a serious hindrance.”

“A few days of heavy weather, bucking head seas and winds, and the racing of the propeller as it is pitched up out of water, will use up far more fuel and time on the shorter rough route than will be expended on the longer but smoother route.”

“Stormy, rough weather is in every way detrimental to economical steaming; tends to rack, strain and otherwise injure the ship, with the possibility of wetting and otherwise injuring the cargo, regardless of what direction the wind is from.”

“Under these conditions, other things being equal, or even against a considerable handicap, the smooth water and gentle wind route will be chosen.”

“Practically all of the Pacific Mail and Japanese Mail line steamers plying between San Francisco and Yokohama now travel the ‘sunshine belt,’ via Honolulu, although it is 5,474 miles that way, instead of the direct, ‘fog belt’ route, although it is only 4,536 miles by that course. In other words they prefer a course which is 938 miles the longer.”

“To Hawaii oversea commerce, the arrival and departure of deep sea ships, is the alpha and omega of its commercial existence.”

“Everything that it imports and everything that it exports passes by sea. Every one who goes anywhere and every one who comes from anywhere travels by sea.”

“These conditions have created a habit of mind, a spirit and method of treatment of shipping that markedly characterizes Hawaiian ports.” (Thurston, History of the Panama Canal, 1915)

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Filed Under: General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Weather, Wind, Currents, Hawaii, Transportation, Shipping, Panama

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