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September 15, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Hanalei Bay Pier

Hanalei … Taro … Pier –> you’d expect these are all associated and the reason for the picturesque pier in Hanalei Bay.  … Kinda.

The Hanalei Bay Pier was originally built to serve the region’s thriving rice industry (recall that as taro production declined in the mid- to late-1800s, many of the loʻi were converted to rice cultivation.)

The Chinese were growing rice at Hanalei at least by 1882, and by 1892, Hanalei and Waioli, with 750 acres of land devoted to rice farming, were the largest rice producing areas in Hawaii.

At this time, rice was the number two agricultural product of the Hawaiian kingdom (behind sugar,) having developed as a major crop in the 1860s when numerous Chinese farmers left the sugar cane plantations following the expiration of their five-year contracts.

Occupying taro patches vacated by a declining Hawaiian population, these rice farmers found a ready market for their product in Honolulu and California, as more and more Chinese immigrated to these areas.

At the time of annexation (1898,) Hawaii was third in rice production in the United States, behind Louisiana and South Carolina.

Annexation, with the removal of all tariffs boomed the sugar industry, however spelled the downfall of Hawaiian rice production.  This caused agricultural land costs to rise from $10-20/acre to $30-35/acre, forcing rice land to be converted to cane use.

Annexation also brought with it Chinese exclusion policies which led to a decreased market for rice. In a matter of five years Hawaii’s Chinese population dropped by 6,000, which was a significant factor in the Honolulu market (the Japanese did not purchase the local rice, preferring to use rice imported from their homeland.)

Other difficulties confronting the rice farmer included an increased need to fertilize (the well-used lands began to show signs of exhaustion;) in addition, a labor shortage caused by many Chinese leaving their farms in hopes of earning more elsewhere.

The decline in the Chinese population, the requirements for fertilizer, competition from California rice growers and the introduction of a rice-borer insect all served as contributing factors to the decline of rice farming.

Since the islands of Hawaiʻi are separated from one another and the rest of the world by the Pacific Ocean, ships and boats have been the major means of transporting goods between the islands and frequently to different areas of the same island.

On Kauaʻi, in the early twentieth century, Port Alien was the major port with Nawiliwili and Hanalei serving as local shipping centers.

Large-scale development of Nawiliwili harbor commenced in 1926 and, with its completion in 1930, Nawiliwili became Kauaʻi’s primary harbor.

As a result of its expansion, the tonnage handled by Nawiliwili jumped from 3,766 tons in 1929 to 56,439 tons in 1931. Much of this increased tonnage reflected an improved highway system which led to a decreased use of smaller ports on the island.

As a result of little use, Hanalei pier was abandoned in 1933, marking the end of an era of inter-island transportation.

Originally, a pier there was constructed out of timber, prior to 1882. The pier was reconstructed with reinforced concrete piles and beams and a wooden deck in 1912.

The structure was used seasonally, primarily to transport rice from Hanalei to Honolulu.

The Hanalei River is adjacent to Hanalei Pier, much of the valley’s rice “arrived at the pier area on the black barges of the rice plantations up the river.”  At the foot of Hanalei Pier was a freight storage warehouse connected to the pier by railroad tracks.

From the mauka landing, the rice was shuttled to the end of the pier on a set of iron railroad tracks and then loaded onto boats.  Small whale boats known as “lighters” carried rice to steamers anchored out in Hanalei Bay.

Interisland steamers docked in the deeper waters of Hanalei Bay while cargo was rowed to and from the pier.

Due to the difficulty in maintaining the wooden deck, the Territorial Legislature in 1921 appropriated funds for the construction of a concrete deck. The wooden decking was subsequently replaced with reinforced concrete in 1922.

The Hanalei Pier is a steel reinforced concrete finger pier which extends from the beach out into Hanalei Bay.  It is 340-feet long and has a 32 x 72 terminus with a shed on it.  (The shed at the end of the pier was originally built in 1940.)

From the 1940s until the present, the pier has been primarily a recreational resource for fishing, picnicking, etc. Located adjacent to a beach park, it is a highly scenic attraction to visitor and resident alike.

The pier was featured in the 1957 classic film “South Pacific”.  Kauaʻi may not be in the South Pacific, but the 1958 movie musical “South Pacific” put it on the map as a premiere film location.

On the east side of Hanalei Pier is Black Pot Beach Park, named after a big iron pot that was used to cook fish caught during a hukilau, a traditional fishing practice in which everyone cooperates to spot, net, and gather fish.

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Hanalei-Pier-(NPS)
AERIAL VIEW OF PIER Photographer-unknown. Date-June 20, 1978-(LOC)-058525pv
AERIAL VIEW OF PIER, LOOKING SOUTHWEST Photographer-unknown. Date-unknown-(LOC)-058522pv
DISTANT VIEW OF PIER, LOOKING SOUTHWEST Photographer-Augie Salbosa. Date-February 22, 1991-(LOC)-058526pv
Hanalei_Pier-(NPS)
Hanalei_Pier,_Hanalei_Bay_off_Weke_Road,_Hanalei_(Kauai_County,_Hawaii)-(WC)-1978
Hanalei-Valley-Rice_Fields-1890
VIEW OF PIER, LOOKING NORTHWEST Photographer-Augie Salbosa. Date-February 22, 1991-(LOC)-058528pv
Hanalei_Pier_Kauai-(WC)-2004
Hanalei_Bay_Kauai-(WC)-2004
Black Pot Park-Facilities-map

Filed Under: Place Names, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Kauai, Hanalei, Hanalei Bay Pier

September 15, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 039 – November 30, 1819

November 30, 1819 – This evening opened a singing school for the improvement of ourselves and the officers in sacred music, and concluded to sing together one hour in a week besides at our ordinary seasons of social worship.
Lat. 28.13. (Thaddeus Journal)

Nov. 30th. This day commenced the study of the Owhyhee language. Shall I be permitted to speak in it, to those idolatrous natives, the wonderful works which Jehovah, the true GOD, has done—that of his creating, governing, and preserving a world, and what must most of all excite their astonishment, of his becoming incarnate and dying to redeem it I This evening held our first singing school. It is greatly to be wished that we could all join with our hearts and voices too, in singing praises to Zion’s King, at our morning and evening devotions, and public worship. I never felt more as if the time was at hand when I should be able to take part in it. (Sybil Bingham)

30th. Have just returned from a singing school in the cabin, Brother T. is our instructor. We enjoy much satisfaction, while tossing upon the ocean in singing the praises of him who rides upon the stormy wind and manages the seas. A whale seen today sharks and other large fish are frequently seen, but we have not been able to take any except a few flying fish which came on board in the night. (Samuel & Nancy Ruggles)

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Voyage of the Thaddeus Tagged With: thevoyageofthethaddeus

September 14, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ancient Agricultural Production Intensification

According the research and reporting by noted archaeologists, there were three main technological advances resulting in food production intensification in pre-contact Hawai‘i: (a) walled fishponds, (b) terraced pondfields with their irrigation systems and (c) systematic dry-land field cultivation organized by vegetation zones.

Walled Fishponds

The Hawaiian walled fishpond stands as a technological achievement unmatched elsewhere in island Oceania.  Hawaiians built rock-walled enclosures in near shore waters, to raise fish for their communities and families.  It is believed these were first built around the fifteenth century.

Only in Hawaiʻi was there such an intensive effort to utilize practically every body of water, from seashore to upland forests, as a source of food, for either agriculture or aquaculture.

The ancient Hawaiian fishpond is a sophisticated land and ocean resource management technique.  Utilizing raw materials such as rocks, corals, vines and woods, the Hawaiians created great walls (kuapā) and gates (mākāhā) for these fishponds.

The general term for a fishpond is loko (pond), or more specifically, loko iʻa (fishpond).  Loko iʻa were used for the fattening and storing of fish for food and also as a source for kapu (forbidden) fish.

The cultivation of fish took place in Hawaiian agricultural pondfields as well as in specialized fresh and brackish water fishponds. Walled, brackish-water fishponds were usually constructed on the reef along the shore and one or more mākāhā.

Samuel M. Kamakau points out that “one can see that they were built as government projects by chiefs, for it was a very big task to build one, (and) commoners could not have done it (singly, or without co-ordination.)” Chiefs had the power to command a labor force large enough to transport the tons of rock required and to construct such great walls.

In 1848, when King Kamehameha III pronounced the Great Māhele, or land distribution, Hawaiian fishponds were considered private property.  This was confirmed in subsequent Court cases that noted “titles to fishponds are recognized to the same extent and in the same manner as rights recognized in fast land.”

Lo‘i Kalo (terraced pondfields)

A second technological invention by Hawaiian Polynesians was the development of their extended stone-faced, terraced pondfields (lo‘i) and their accompanying irrigation systems (‘auwai) for the intensive cultivation of wetland taro (kalo.)

The terraces were irrigated with water brought in ditches from springs and streams high in the valleys, allowing extensive areas of the valleys to be cultivated. The irrigation ditches and pondfields were engineered to allow the cool water to circulate among the taro plants and from terrace to terrace, avoiding stagnation and overheating by the sun, which would rot the taro tubers.

An acre of irrigated pondfields produced as much as five times the amount of taro as an acre of dryland cultivation. Over a period of several years, irrigated pondfields could be as much as 10 or 15 times more productive than unirrigated taro gardens, as dryland gardens need to lie fallow for greater lengths of time thin irrigated gardens.

In addition, walled pondfields not only produce taro, but were also used to raise an additional source of food, freshwater fish: primarily the Hawaiian goby (‘o‘opu nakea) and certain kinds of shrimp (‘opae.)

Captain George Vancouver visited O‘ahu in 1792 and wrote about the taro gardens in tine Waikīkī-Kapahulu-Mo‘ili‘ili-Manana complex that he observed:

“Our guides led us to the northward through the village [Waikiki], to an exceedingly well-made causeway, about twelve feet broad, with a ditch on each side.  This opened to our view a spacious plain…the major part appeared divided into fields of irregular shape and figure, which were separated from each other by low stone walls, and were in a very high state of cultivation.”

In 1815, the explorer Kotzebue added to these descriptions by writing about the gardens and the artificial ponds that were scattered throughout the area:

“The luxuriant taro-fields, which might be properly called taro-lake, attracted my attention.  Each of these consisted of about one hundred and sixty square feet, forms a regular square, and walled round with stones, like our basins. This field or tank contained two feet of water, in whose slimy bottom the taro was planted, as it only grows in moist places. Each had two sluices. One to receive, and the other to let out, the water into the next field, whence it was carried farther.”

Dryland Field System

The third form of subsistence intensification involved the systematic cultivation of dryland crops in their appropriate vegetation zones as exemplified by the Field Systems in Kona, Kohala, Kaupō and Kalaupapa (Ka‘ū reportedly also has a field system.)

Cultivation of the soil in Kona was characterized by a variety of non-irrigated root and tree crops grown for subsistence, each farmer having gardens in one or more vegetation zones. Each crop was cultivated in the zone in which it grew best.

Reverend William Ellis described the area behind Kailua town in Kona above the breadfruit and mountain apple trees as, “The path now lay through a beautiful part of the country, quite a garden compared with that through which they had passed on first leaving the town.”

“It was generally divided into small fields, about fifteen rods square fenced with low stone walls, built with fragments of lava gathered from the surface of the enclosures. These fields were planted with bananas, sweet potatoes, mountain taro, paper mulberry plants, melons, and sugar-cane, which flourished luxuriantly in every direction.”

Farmers found, farmed and intensified production on lands that were poised between being too wet and too dry.  Archaeological evidence of intensive cultivation of sweet potato and other dryland crops is extensive, including walls, terraces, mounds and other features.

The fields were typically oriented parallel to the elevation contours and the walls; sometimes these were made up of a grid of rain-fed plots, defined by low stone field walls built, in part, to shelter sweet potatoes and other crops from the wind.

Since the dryland technique was away from supplemental water sources, this was truly dryland agriculture.  There was no evidence to level terraces as in irrigated pondfield systems (taro lo‘i,) and there was no evidence of water control features or channels; so the conclusion was the system was strictly rainfed.

The inspiration (and much of the information) for this post came from research from Dr. Marion Kelly.

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Heeia Fishpond-1975
Interior fish pond Waikiki Oahu-1905
Moku‘ula
Moku‘ula
Fishponds - Molii and Mokolii-1930
Moku‘ula
Moku‘ula
Hawaii_Island_Fishpond_Gate-(WC)
Fishpond_in_east_Molokai-(WC)
Fish_Ponds_at_Honoruru,_Oahu,_by_John_Murray,_after_Robert_Dampier-(WC)-1836
Honolulu_Harbor_to_Diamond_Head-Wall-Reg1690 (1893) - Waikiki_portion-(note_fish_ponds-rice_fields_(formerly_used_as_taro_loi)
Hawaiian_Taro_Plant-1920
c. 1826 lithograph, William Ellis C., Big Island. Waipio Valley, Ahupua'a.
c. 1826 lithograph, William Ellis C., Big Island. Waipio Valley, Ahupua’a.
Auwai-(KSBE)
Wailau-terraces-walls (Windy K McElroy)
Wailau-terraces_walls (Windy K McElroy)
Stepped terrace walls under hau trees, Kahaluʻu Taro Loʻi-(WC)
Oahu-Kahaluu-kalo-terrace-wall-(WC)
Hanalei_Valley_Taro-Loi-(WC)
Hanalei_Valley_Taro-Loi-(WC)
Loi-Kalo-Punaluu-(KSBE-BishopMuseum)-1924
Loi-Kalo-Punaluu-(KSBE-BishopMuseum)-1924
Water from the ‘auwai going back to the kahawai-(KSBE)
Kohala Field System-walls-trails-map-Vitousek
Kohala Field System-photo-Vitousek
Kaupo_Dryland_Field_System
Kalaupapa_Field_System-densely packed windbreak field walls are visible from the air-(McCoy)
Kalaupapa_Field_System-(SJSU-McCoy)-Map
P-03-View of Country back of Kailua
Kona_Field_System-GoogleEarth
Map of Islands noting Majory Dryland Field Systems-(Kirch)

Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions Tagged With: Fishpond, Loi, Taro, Dryland, Agriculture, Hawaii

September 14, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 040 – December 1, 1819

December 1, 1819 – no entry. (Thaddeus Journal)

Dec. 1st. Have had enjoyment to-day, in writing to friends and sisters—found my mind much with them, as it is the eve of a pleasant anniversary, calling my mind back to “the days of other years”. (Sybil Bingham)

“This day saw a shark and a dolphin. Porpoises are frequently seen playing about our vessel. These sights are all novel to us, and afford no small degree of amuseument here in this barren clime. where fish and birds are the principal production.” (Lucia Ruggles Holman)

Dec. 1st. A proclamation has been read this evening announcing that Thursday next (that is tomorrow) is to be observed as a day of thanksgiving and praise to God. While we congratulate our dear friends on this anniversary, Thanksgiving, we would also recognize with humble gratitude the tender mercies of our God toward us in a special manner. For the mercies of this day we would especially bless him; the wind which for about the 20 days past has been a head, has today blown in our favor, and this evening we have entered the trade winds. Capt. Blanchard has frequently observed that we were sailing toward home; though the bare mention of home creates pleasuring sensations in my mind and ever will; yet the thought of going thither, finds an unwelcome reception in my heart. (Samuel & Nancy Ruggles)

Dec 1. A newspaper has been found mentioning that tomorrow is set up part in Massachusetts to be kept as a day of thanksgiving and praise to God for his goodness. We intend to observe it. We have much occasion to praise the Lord for his mercies, which are renewed from day to day. He is ever mindful of us; preserving us from dangers, seen and unseen; although we are prone to forget Him and wander like sheep that have gone astray. This evening we have a fresh gale of wind and our progress is rapid. We sail at the rate of 9 miles an hour. Thus you see we are renewedly called upon to offer of the sacrifice of praise and thanksgiving to our covenant God and Redeemer. The year past has been marked with many interesting and important events, which in a peculiar manner, demand from us the most exalted strains of gratitude and praise. (Mercy Partridge Whitney Journal)

Dec 1. – How strange that one devoted to the lord, leaving his native country & foregoing the pleasures of refined society, should feel so little love to God and the souls of men! O God help me to live henceforth more like a pilgrim & a stranger on earth & feel that dreadness to the world that becomes a missionary of Jesus. (Samuel Whitney Journal)

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Voyage of the Thaddeus Tagged With: thevoyageofthethaddeus

September 13, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Star Spangled Banner

Often overlooked, twenty-nine years after the end of the American Revolution, conflict between the new United States and Britain flared up, again.

The War of 1812 broke out for a variety of reasons, including Britain’s seizure of American ships, forced taking of American sailors into the British navy and restriction of trade between the United States and France.

In June 1812, James Madison became the first US president to ask Congress to declare war (he sent a war message to the Congress on June 1, 1812 and signed the declaration of war on June 18, 1812.)  (The conflict ended with the Treaty of Ghent, in 1815.)

The tensions that caused the War of 1812 arose from the French revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars (1792–1815).

During this nearly constant conflict between France and Britain, American interests were injured by each of the two countries’ endeavors to block the United States from trading with the other.

In Hawaiʻi, the issue of interest was the export of sandalwood – the War of 1812 interfered with trade in the Pacific.

Exports were interrupted by the battling nations as warships were sent to protect their own commerce and destroy that of the enemy.  Hawaiʻi was blockaded during the war.

In addition, several Hawaiians served with the US in the war, including Humehume (Prince Kaumualiʻi, son of King Kaumualiʻi,) Thomas Hopu and William Kanui (all three were also on the Thaddeus with the first missionary company to Hawaiʻi, in 1820.)

A lasting legacy of the War of 1812 was the lyrics of “The Star-Spangled Banner,” the US national anthem.  They were penned by the amateur poet Francis Scott Key after he watched American forces withstand the British siege of Fort McHenry (named for James McHenry, Secretary of War, 1796 – 1800.)

Following the Burning of Washington and the Raid on Alexandria, Key set sail from Baltimore aboard the ship HMS Minden, flying a flag of truce on a mission approved by President James Madison. Their objective was to secure the exchange of prisoners.

On September 13, 1814, nineteen British ships aimed their cannons and guns on the fort.  Amazingly, an estimated 1,500 to 1,800 British cannonballs failed to cause any significant damage to a fort which was unable to fire back on the ships because they were positioned just out of range of the American guns.

During the rainy night, Key had witnessed the bombardment and observed that the fort’s smaller “storm flag” continued to fly, but once the shell and rocket barrage had stopped, he would not know how the battle had turned out until dawn.  By then, the storm flag had been lowered and the larger flag had been raised.

Key was inspired by the American victory and the sight of the large American flag flying triumphantly above the fort.  That morning, he penned the poem that eventually became our country’s National Anthem.

The flag, with fifteen stars and fifteen stripes, came to be known as the Star Spangled Banner Flag and is today on display in the National Museum of American History in the Smithsonian Institution.

The song gained popularity throughout the nineteenth century and bands played it during public events, such as July 4th celebrations.

On July 27, 1889, Secretary of the Navy Benjamin F. Tracy signed General Order #374, making “The Star-Spangled Banner” the official tune to be played at the raising of the flag.

I was fortunate to have attended a Coastal States Organization meeting in Baltimore, Maryland while I served as Director at DLNR.  I took the time to visit Fort McHenry to better see and understand what it looked like.

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Flag over Fort McHenry-1814-(WC)
Star Spangled Banner Flag that inspired the lyrics of the US national anthem when it flew above Fort McHenry in 1814-(WC)
Fort McHenry-(NPS)-1865
Fort McHenry-(MDHS)-1920s
War of 1812 – Star Spangled Banner Anthem
FortMcHenry_aerial
Fort_McHenry-aerial-point-(NPS)
Fort_McHenry-aerial-(NPS)
Fort_McHenry-(NPS)
Battle_of_Baltimore-1814

Filed Under: General, Military Tagged With: William Kanui, Prince Kaumualii, Star Spangled Banner, War of 1812, Hawaii, Thomas Hopu, Fort McHenry, Humehume

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People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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