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July 20, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 096 – January 26, 1820

January 26, 1820 – Last night Capt. B. chose to lie by rather than proceed lest falling into the “straits” of Le Maire he should be becalmed in the night and drifted ashore. We are now in the “Straits” of L.M. – Del Fuigo on our right and Staten Land on the left, on both of which among their towering rocks, we can discover banks of snow now in the midsummer. We have a little hail today. The mercury in our thermometer stands at 58 f. We entered the strait early in the morning with a fair wind which, however, subsided at 10 A.M. before we had quite passed through and we were carried back by the current 19 or 20 miles. During this recess we were much interested by discovering two men kindling a fire on the beach. Our attention was first attracted by the rising smoke; then by the help of our glasses, the men could be very distinctly seen. But whether they were natives of the Island about their ordinary business, or endeavoring to attract our notice, or whether they were ship-wrecked mariners making the usual signal of distress, and imploring our aid, we could not tell. Of what name or nation soever they may be, they have awakened our compassion, and were it in our power we would gladly extend to them the hand of kindness and the voice of consolation, and affectionately tell them that a Savior lives in heaven all powerful and gracious, who died for them, and who is ready to afford his aid, and if they will obey him, to give them eternal life and receive them from these tempest beaten shores to the peaceful mansions of heavenly rest. (Thaddeus Journal)

Jan. 26th, Wednesday. “Begins with pleasant, hazy weather, and a fresh breeze from the northward. Steering to the southeastward along the coast of Terra del Fuego. The land appears barren and mountainous. Running for the Straits of Le Maire, a little to the N. W., are two remarkable hills with flat tops. Between them is a small hill running up to a peak like a sugar-loaf. Cape St. Vincent, or N.E. point, runs off low and flat. Bearing E. S. E. we saw, over the low point, the high land of Staten Land. At 8 p.m., in close reef topsails, and hauled on a wind to the northward. Fresh gales from West. At 3 a.m. wore ship and stood for the Straits of Le Maire; at 9 a.m. entered the Straits. The land on both sides appears high, rough, and barren. Saw a small smoke on the west shore. Ends, light baffling winds and passing clouds. Thermometer 60°. Lat. obsd. 54° 40′ South.” (James Hunnewell)

Jan. 26th. We are now in the Straits of Le-Maire. Terra-del-Fuego on the right, and Staten-Land on the left. We had not entered them, yesterday, when I thought. You will see by the map that the former discovers a considerable point previous to entering the Straits. Fight coming on, Capt. B— thought it prudent to lie by for the night, and seek an entrance in the morning.
Many thoughts run in the mind as we gaze on these rude coasts; but not such conflicting ones, as when we shall gaze on those of Owyhee. Here, as there, “No gospel’s joyful sound” is heard. The poor souls, scattered about on its bleak mountains, yet own no other sceptre than that of the Prince of darkness. But the day is hastening when, they shall. As we pass by them, and deplore their wretched state, we would enquire in what way we may do them good. We may ask God to remember them—we may exhort our Christian friends to stop not in their exertions till every dark corner feels the rays of the Sun of Righteousness. 2 o’clock. At ten A. M. we had almost made the point through Le-Maire. A calm came on, and the current has forced us back about thirty miles. Behing us, at the entrance of the Strait, where we were this morning, there is a tremendous sea.
We hear the distant roar, and see the white caps of the waves, the waters as it were trembling under us; while two of the blackest clouds hang over each island, en- creasing fast. I narrowly observe the Capt.’s countenance. Marks of deep solicitude are plainly visible now. What the Captain of our salvation is about to cause us to pass through in this narrow sea, I know not, but this * do know, and it shall be my consolation, as these high mountains are round about us, and “as the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so is. the Lord round about his people. What time I am afraid, I will trust in Him.” (Sybil Bingham)

January 26. At 7 this morning we made the island of Staten land on our left-just entering the Straits of Le Maire. This we deemed the most critical period of our voyage. The wind having turned against us. we were driven off and on for 12 hours. in no small danger of being dashed against the rocks, which border the surrounding islands. But Providence. Interfering in our behalf as he is ever wont to do. we found ourselves on the morning of the 27th quite past the Straits of Le Maire, steering up towards the Cape as fast as the winds could take us. Thus. was the Lord better to us than our fears. The appearance of these islands. as we sailed between them. were as follows:
That of Tierra del Fuego, is one of the most abrupt and mountainous countries that I ever beheld. appearing at the distance of 8 miles. like a continued mass of rocks and hills peeping over hills. some rising in the form of a pyramid. others terminating in steep. craggy cliffs. many of which showed marks of a volcano.
Staten Land is not dissimilar to the former – only in size – being much smaller. The perpendicular height of some of its mountains appeared to reach above the clouds, and [to be] covered with perpetual snow, yet, history informs us, that here, in this cold, barren, and unfriendly soil, dwells a savage race of men, whose natures are no less rude than the rocks among which they dwell. subsisting chiefly on fish and clothing themselves with the skins of wild beasts.
Upon these poor souls the Son of Righteousness hath never shone, no sound of the Gospel ever saluted their ears – but they must spell out their existence. by the dim light of nature, until the Lord in his own time shall give them to his Son for an inheritance.
These Islands abound in almost an infinite variety of birds and wild-fowl: such as Geese of different species. and of ducks, Pigeons. Cormorants. Albatrosses. &c. The morning on which we passed the Straits was calm and pleasant and not unfavorable for taking observations. I took a rude draught of both these Islands. as we passed them. which. for the sake of variety some future day (if permitted) I will retrace and send you. (Lucia Ruggles Holman)

Jan. 26th. 1 o’clock P. M. Hoisted sail early this morning and the wind still breezing in our favour, at 10 o’clock were half thro’ the straits of Le Maire, when a sudden and tremendous swell of the sea came in, and our wind died away leaving us tossing to and fro upon the waves which were comparatively as high as the mountains on each side, and in no small danger of being dashed against the rocks. Here for the first time I realized immediate danger; Capt. B. was much agitated; we could neither proceed nor go back. But He in whom we trust who has always been trying us with mercies as well as judgments soon appeared for us and now the water has become calm and the weather pleasant. We are so near the Terra del Fuego shore, as to discover that there are some trees upon the mountains but it is a black and barren place. It seems hardly possible for man to exist here, but there are few wretched inhabitants, whose condition is but little better than the wild beasts around them.
We discover a smoke on the beach, and. with the help of a spy, glass can distinctly see two men. Probably they see us and make the fire as a signal for us to go to them; but we think it not proper. The natives on this side of the Island are said to be friendly; those on the south side savage and barbarous. The thought is interesting that we are so near heathen grounds; we would remember affectionately these poor people, as we pass by their dreary land, and pray that Jesus may soon possess them for an inheritance. An immense number of birds are constantly flying about us. Four or five kinds of ducks, several of geese, Albatrosses, Penquins, Cormorants, Teal, and many other kinds of land birds, visit us as we lie becalmed. 7 o-clock in the eve. The wind again breezes in our favour and we begin to proceed through the strait. Surely the Lord Jehovah is on our right hand and on our left. (Samuel Ruggles)

Jan. 26. I have just been on deck to take a view of the scene around us. We are now in the Straits with a good breeze carrying us forward. The Straits are said to be about 15 miles long, and near as wide. We are walled in on either side by high mountains and craggy cliffs. Two or three ridges are seen one above the other. Most of them appear to be entirely barren. They resemble a huge pile of massy rocks. But this is not the most dreary part, upon which imagination seems to linger. What fills the mind with most painful sensations, is the thought that the inhabitants of these Isles, or in the state of moral degradation, without one ray of Gospel light to cheer their souls, or illumine their dreary path. We have been so near the shore of Terra Del Fuego as to see a smoke and with the aid of a glass discovered two human beings near it. (Mercy Partridge Whitney Journal)

26. – Captain B judging it not prudent to pass through the Straits of Le Marie last evening we lay too until this morning, when we entered them under a strong west wind which continued till we had passed halfway through. We have now been be calmed about 2 hours & a strong current from the Pacific is drifting us out again. We are about halfway between Staten Island & Terra Del Fuego. The straits are said to be about 15 miles in length and as many in breadth. Staten Island presents nothing but rocks. On the other side there are a few trees. Here is a safe retreat for birds. Albatrosses, ducks, penquins, teal &c abound here. Two men thought to be natives are seen standing on Terra Del Fuego by a fire. (Samuel Whitney Journal)

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Voyage of the Thaddeus Tagged With: thevoyageofthethaddeus

July 19, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Rice

Rice production was not a major contributor to Hawaiʻi’s economy until the latter half of the nineteenth century. As whaling declined in importance, greater emphasis was placed on agricultural production, primarily sugar and rice.

It was in 1850 when the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society was formed to develop Hawaiʻi’s agricultural resources that rice made its mark in the Hawaiʻi economy. The group purchased land in the Nuʻuanu Valley and rice seed from China and planted in a former taro patch.

At first the Society offered the rice seed to anyone in Hawaiʻi who wanted to plant it. King Kamehameha IV also offered land grants for cultivation of rice. Because there were no proper milling facilities in Hawaiʻi, it didn’t take off as a viable crop right away.

Then, in 1860, imported rice seed from South Carolina proved very successful and yielded a fair amount of crop. This, combined with the collapse of the taro industry in 1861-1862 (as the Hawaiian population declined, the demand for taro also declined,) added value to the numerous vacant taro patches and a boom in the rice industry.

From 1860 to the 1920s, Rice was raised in the islands of Hawaiʻi, particularly in Kauai and Oʻahu, because of their abundance of rain.

The Hanalei Valley of Kauai led all other single geographic units in the amount of acreage planted in rice. The valley was one of the first areas converted to this use and continued to produce well into the 1960s.

The Commercial Pacific Advertiser noted on October 3, 1861, “Everybody and his wife (including defunct government employees) are into rice – sugar is nowhere and cotton is no longer king. Taro patches are held at fabulous valuations, and among the thoughtful the query is being propounded, where is our taro to come from?”

During the 1860s and 1870s, the production of rice increased substantially. It was consumed domestically by the burgeoning numbers of Chinese brought to the Islands as agricultural laborers.

In 1862, the first rice mill in the Hawaiian Islands was constructed in Honolulu (prior to that it was sent unhulled and uncleaned to be milled in San Francisco.) By 1887 over 13 million pounds of rice were exported.

A particularly important stimulus for the increased demand for rice was the Reciprocity Treaty of 1876. This treaty between the United States and the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi granted duty-free status to certain items of trade between the two countries, including rice.

Thomas Thrum wrote in 1877 that Kamehameha V and other landowners had “planted a large tract of land in rice (in Moanalua,) and even went so far as to pull up and destroy large patches of growing taro to plant rice.”

In 1899, Hawaiʻi’s rice production had expanded so that it placed third in production of rice behind Louisiana and South Carolina.

Much of this rice acreage was worked initially by Chinese immigrants, who first arrived as contract laborers in 1852. By 1860 this immigrant population totaled 1,200. Chinese immigration continued at a rapid pace until 1884, when the official census estimated the number of Chinese at 18,254.

In 1882 the US Congress passed the Chinese Exclusion Act; then, Japanese workers were brought in to take their place. Within only five years the Japanese constituted more than forty-two percent of the plantation work force and one-seventh of the total population.

Ironically, this influx of Japanese immigrants accelerated Hawaiʻi’s decline in rice production. Japanese preferred short grain rice rather than the long grain rice the Chinese were used to eating. So rice began to be imported from California for the Japanese.

California’s success would ultimately mean the end of the rice industry in Hawaiʻi. Furthermore, the hand labor techniques of Hawaiʻi’s Chinese and Japanese rice farmers could not compete with California’s mechanized production technology.

Additional problems with the rice bird and rice borer, as well as the lack of interest on the part of the younger generation to continue rice farming, eventually meant the end of a once prosperous industry.

Attempts to revive rice production by the Agricultural Extension Service of the University of Hawaiʻi were made in 1906 and 1933, primarily in Hanalei.

As a result the acreage planted in rice on the island rose from 759 acres in 1933 to 1,058 in 1934. For areas like Hanalei Valley, such efforts, coupled with the valley’s general remoteness and absence of competing demands for the land, allowed rice cultivation to continue as a regional activity long after it had been abandoned throughout the rest of Hawaiʻi.

Today, there is no trace of the rice fields in Hawaiʻi. However, Hoʻopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill museum in Hanalei Valley provides a remnant look at the once prospering agricultural venture.

It was built by the Chinese and purchased by the Haraguchi family in 1924. The Haraguchi family has restored the mill three times; after a fire in 1930, then again after Hurricane Iwa in 1982 and Hurricane Iniki in 1992.

The mill ceased operating in 1960 when Kauai’s rice industry collapsed. A nonprofit organization was formed to preserve and interpret the mill, which has been visited by thousands of school children and adults in the past 29 years.

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Rice
Rice
Rice
Rice
View of rice fields towards Pālolo Valley from the back of Waikīkī, Hawai`i, ca. 1910
View of rice fields towards Pālolo Valley from the back of Waikīkī, Hawai`i, ca. 1910
Rice
Rice
Windward_Rice_Planting
Windward_Rice_Planting
Rice_fields_workers_beneath_Punchbowl_Crater,_Honolulu,_in_1900
Rice_fields_workers_beneath_Punchbowl_Crater,_Honolulu,_in_1900
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Rice-aep-his290
Rice-aep-his291
Rice-aep-his291
The Iron Horse Comes to Hawaii-Peter Hurd-1889
The Iron Horse Comes to Hawaii-Peter Hurd-1889
Chinese water buffalo plowing rice field Hawaii Tai Sing Loo-(KSBE)=
Chinese water buffalo plowing rice field Hawaii Tai Sing Loo-(KSBE)=
Chinese-Waterbuffalo-Rice
Chinese-Waterbuffalo-Rice
Rice
Rice
Windward_Rice_Farmers
Windward_Rice_Farmers

Filed Under: Economy Tagged With: Rice, Hanalei, Hawaii, Waikiki, Kaneohe

July 19, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 095 – January 25, 1820

January 25, 1820 – About 11 A.M. , one of the mates aloft cheered us with the grateful note of “Land ho!” The smiles of joy and glow of animation appeared through our little circle, and at 1 P.M. our eyes were gratified with a full view of the North Eastern part of Terra Del Fuege, stretching along 6 miles or more on our right. This is the first we have seen during three months, since our dear native shores receded from our view. But alas, how unlike our beloved N. England. Here no temples of the living God left their lofty spires to heaven in honor to him who of old laid the foundations of these snow-capt mountains, and weighed their rugged hills in his balance. No joyful sound of the church-going bell invites the wretched inhabitants to the feast of the gospel. – No sun of righteousness softens their icy hearts, while they not only cover themselves with the skins but actually wear the nature of the wild beasts of the forests. When we think of our highly favored country we are ready to exclaim, “We shall never look upon its like again!” But while we have occasion to weep over the wickedness of men who dwell in these dark and dreary wilds and contrast their condition with our countrymen, we remember with grief that even there are many thousands who derive no saving benefits from the gospel, thousands who obey not nor even hear a preached gospel, thousands whose ears are saluted from Sabbath to Sabbath with the sound of the inviting church bell, whose feet never enter the sanctuary of God to worship in his presence, and thousands more who seem to breathe the atmosphere of Christianity, inhale the contagion of death, and labor to obscure the glory and prevent the efficiency of the life-giving doctrines of the cross. But we are comforted with assurance that many thousands there will not stumble nor rest until all our countrymen, and all the inhabitants of America from the northern to this southern extremity, and all the dwellers in the sea shall enjoy the best means of grace and salvation. Is it too much to hope that a stream from that benevolence now rising in the American church will soon roil through South America, carrying health and salvation even to the cold regions of Cape Horn. (Thaddeus Journal)

Jan; 25th. Tuesday afternoon, 2 o’clock. I leave the busy, animated little multitude, to say to my dear sisters, that after no sight of land for thirteen weeks and two days, it now cheers our sight. The bold coast of Terra-de-Fuego presents itself to view; its snow- capt mountains becoming more grand, as we, with great rapidity, draw nearer to them. We have looked forward, with trembling, to these regions, yet when here find more rapid sailing and as apparent security, as in any part of our voyage. I desire that we may rightly notice it. We have still a dangerous coast to pass, before we can be in the smooth waters of the Pacific. And there, may we bear in mind, that we shall need a divine Pilot.
I should love to tell my scholars that they might look on their maps and imagine me entering the Straits of Le- Maire. Dear Girls! I shall want to live in their remembrance. 0, that I might be permitted to hear, from time to time, that one and another had set out for the kingdom of heaven I Might the day come when I should give some one the hand of greeting on heathen shores! ‘ The thought is not new. I have looked round upon them, with similar feelings, when they had been ignorant of what was passing in the mind. 4 o’clock. I have just laid aside my dissertation which I have been set about, this week, to run on deck and see how land looks now. The mountains appear nobly I Looking round for my best friend, and not seeing him at once, I sent my eyes up mast-head and spied him upon the main sail- yard. He has an advantage, in prospect. The day continues very fine. I must go to my work. A regular system has been strenuously recommended to all. It is variously regarded. I will give you some parts of mine. It commences with the hour 6 in the morning, closing with 10, evening. From 9 to 12 logic and theological reading—from 12 to 1 recitation of my class—1 to 2 dinner and exercise—2 to 6 miscellaneous reading, writing, and Owyhee language—from 6 to 8 tea, singing, social intercourse and exercise. I should love to gratify all my many dear friends, with a free perusal of every thing communicated, tho not directed to them individually, but you will find things, occasionally, which I would not have you read. Your own judgment will dictate without my specifying. Assure me you will regard this, and you will have things, Providence giving me the opportunity to write, both little and great, as they interest me. I do desire to improve my time, for soon, should life be spared and our wishes granted, we must make the best use of the little stock of talents which we have. (Sybil Bingham)

January 25. 1820. This morning. 10 Oc., after a voyage of 96 days. we made the island of Tierra-del-Fuego which to the naked eye, appeared like a distant cloud rising above the surface of the water.
It is not easy to describe our feelings at the sight of land once more. Joy hung upon every countenance, while each heart seemed to palpitate with peculiar emotions. (Lucia Ruggles Holman)

Jan. 25th, 12 o’clock. After sailing 95 days without seeing land, we this morning at 10 o’clock with joyful eyes and hearts discovered the Island of Terra del Fuego, about ten leagues ahead. Though it had more the appearance of a cloud than land yet the bare thought that it was land gave us pleasing sensations. Joy ran through my bosom, and for a moment I almost forgot that I was seasick. I have not enjoyed health for a single moment since I came on board the Thaddeus, nor do I expect to until I reach Owhyhee (Hawaii), but I would be far from complaining.
The Lord lays his hand gently upon me and I will rejoice that I may suffer for his sake, I feel as I did before I left America, an increasing desire to spend my life in a remote corner of the globe, and wear out in the cause of my dear Redeemer. I am interrupted by the appearance of a large whale alongside. 2 o’clock M. The land appears in ful view before us not more than 6 or 8 imiles distant. We are sailing along its N. E. coast in pursuit of the straits Le Maire thro’ which we hope to pass if successful in finding them. Terra del Fuego is the most uneven country I ever saw. It appears to be little less than a continued, map of barren hills, and lofty ragged mountains, some of whose tops reach above the clouds, and are white with perpetual snows. It is indeed a dreary land. In this bleak region mariners always expect roughest weather but we are highly favored and have been for several days past. To-day it is uncommonly pleasant; not very cold and a fine breeze wafts us 7 knots or miles an hour.
Dear friends unite with us in blessing him whose power controls the raging wind, and says peace be still. -5 o’clock P. M. The strait begins to open before us, and we have a fair prospect of a pleasant passage through. Should the present wind continue we shall probably see O. H. to-morrow. – Who knows but we shall be wafted directly around the long dreaded cape without experiencing any storms; but perhaps such a passage was never known. We have a safe Pilot an Almighty guide who stands at our helm, he can do all things.
5 o’clock. Staten land to the E. of us, is if possible more uneven than Terra del Fuego. The mountains rise one above another in a great number of sharp and lofty peaks, some in the form of pyramids and some in the form of a sugar loaf. In the sides of some appear vast holes, which probably are the effect of volcanic eruptions.’
Now near cape St. Diego at the N. W. entrance of the strait. Few ships pass through here as it is considered dangerous; the passage narrow [15-miles in width] and both shores lined, with solid rock. But as we have a fair wind Capt. B. thinks it better to attempt a passage through, than sail around Staten land which would be 200 miles farther. – We have entered the mouth of the strait but as it is almost night and finding a very strong current sitting in against us, we shall lie to for the night. Farewell dear friends till morning. May the God of Isreal bless you and give you repose; May he be mindful of us also and be our refuge and sage defence. (Samuel & Nancy Ruggles)

Jan. 25, 1820.-After having been out ninety-four days, and witnessing nothing but floating barques like our own, some monsters of the deep, the expansive ocean and the wide-spread heavens, I can not describe to you the joyful emotions which the sight of land has this day produced. We have a fair view of Terra del Fuego on the right, and Staten Land on the left. The Captain has this evening heaved to, viewing it as dangerous passing the straight in the night, from the liability of meeting ~ gale in this tempestuous region. (Lucy Goodale Thurston)

Jan. 25th. Ninety-four days from Boston. This morning our ears were saluted with the cry, “land ho.” It proved to be the Island of Terra del Fuego. This island has but little appearance of verdure. It seems to be mostly made up of sand-banks and rocky mountains, whose tops are covered with snow. One would hardly think it possible for human beings to dwell in so dreary and solitary a place. Could you but cast one look at this heathen land, where wretchedness takes up her abode, and them reflect upon the happiness of civilized society, methinks you would joyfully say, “Go my dear children, go, proclaim, Salvation through Emmanuel’s name: To distant Isles the tidings bear, And plant the Rose of Sharon there.” We are about to enter the straits of Le Maire which separates Staten Land from Terra del Fuego, and as Capt. B. has never yet been through it is thought advisable to lie too for the night. (Mercy Partridge Whitney Journal)

25. – This morning were saluted by the joyful sound of ‘land ho!’ It was that inhospitable island of Terra Del Fuego – Three months have now relapsed since we placed our feet on the solid earth. We had been tossed and rolled about till our limbs were weary with shaking, & our eyes satiated with beholding tempests. My pleasure would be much increased could I go on shore & refresh a little. As we draw near, there are some appearances of verdant spots, but we can see little except mountains covered with forests & huge masses of rocks whose hoaty tops are covered with snow although it is now midsummer. (Samuel Whitney Journal)

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July 18, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Lēʻahi

Lēʻahi, also known as Diamond Head, is a nearly circular crater of approximately two-thirds of a mile in diameter.

Diamond Head is different things to different people:
• Homes of Hawai‘i’s Kings, Queens and Royal Families were in its shadow
• It’s an internationally-recognized visitor industry icon
• It’s the backdrop to the famous Waikīkī Beach
• It served an integral role in the island military defenses
• It is present home and command center for State Civil Defense
• It’s an easy walk to the summit for spectacular views of the ocean and coastline
• It is a backdrop to a transformation of social, political and religious events

Diamond Head was given its name by British sailors who found natural calcite crystals on the slopes of the mountain and mistook them for diamonds. Hawaiians called the volcanic cone Lēʻahi, Laeʻahi or Lae-ahi. Translations include: “brow of the ʻahi” and “cape of fire.”

In the legend of Pele and Hi‘iaka, Hi‘iaka is said to have compared Diamond Head to the brow of the ‘ahi: Me he i‘a la ka Lae o Ahi; E kalali au ae nei i ke kai – Like a fish is the Brow-of-the-ahi Resting high above the sea.

Other names for Diamond Head include Point Rose (given to the geologic feature in 1786 by Captain Nathaniel Portlock in honor of the secretary of the British treasury), Diamond Hill and Conical Mountain.

Geologically speaking, Diamond Head is a dormant volcanic tuff cone, with a variable-height rim surrounding the recessed interior area; the eruption of Diamond Head took place well over 150,000-years ago.

The highest point (at 761-feet) on the southwest rim of Diamond Head is known as Lēʻahi Summit (most of the rim is between 400-500-feet.) The crater is on the southern coastline of Oʻahu, approximately one-and-a-half miles south of the Koʻolau range.

From at least the 15th century, chiefly residences lined the shore of Waikīkī, and cultivated fields spread across the Waikīkī plain to the foot of the crater and inland to the Ko‘olau valleys. There were several heiau in Waikīkī, of which several were located around Diamond Head.

One of Kamehameha’s main heiau (also suggested as a surfing heiau,) Papaʻenaʻena (also called Lēʻahi Heiau,) was situated at the base of the southern slopes.

Other heiau in the vicinity include Kupalaha Heiau, which may have been connected with Papaʻenaʻena, Pahu-a-Maui Heiau on the crater’s eastern cliffs overlooking the ocean (the site of the present Diamond Head lighthouse), Kapua Heiau near the present Kapiʻolani Park, and Ahi Heiau on the peak of Diamond Head.

In the early years of the 19th century, people tended gardens in the crater and one visitor described finding “an abundance of melons and watermelons growing wild, upon which we feasted”.

In 1831, the botanist, Dr. FJF Meyen, noted the crater contained a small pool of water “which was completely covered with plants”. (The crater pond was filled-in by military bulldozing; now, there is a seasonally-moist wetland where standing water can occasionally be seen.)

Some have suggested there is little likelihood for archaeological sites of pre-contact Hawaiian or early post-contact origin in the crater. The archival research suggests that the only Hawaiian activity that might have taken place in the crater was dryland farming (dating to 1822.)

In the Great Māhele division of lands between the king and his high chiefs, Diamond Head, which lies within the ¬ʻili of Kapahulu in the ahupua¬ʻa of Waikīkī, was awarded to William C. Lunalilo, the future king of Hawaiʻi (1873-1874).

In the early 1860s, Mark Twain commented, “On the seventh day out we saw a dim vast bulk standing up out of the wastes of the Pacific and knew that that spectral promontory was Diamond Head, a piece of this world which I had not seen before for twenty-nine years.”

“So we were nearing Honolulu, the capital city of the Sandwich Islands – those islands which to me were Paradise; a Paradise which I had been longing all those years to see again. Not any other thing in the world could have stirred me as the sight of that great rock did.”

In 1884, the Kapahulu portion of Lunalilo’s Māhele award was subdivided by the Lunalilo Estate. Diamond Head was transferred from the estate to the Hawaiian Government.

The summit of Lēʻahi affords an excellent and unobstructed view of the ocean from Koko Head in the east, to beyond the ʻEwa Plain to Wai‘anae in the west. The utility of Diamond Head did not go unnoticed by the U.S. Army.

In 1906, the US government acquired the 729-acres of Lunalilo’s property from the Hawaiian Government, as well as other adjacent lands (including Black Point), to create Fort Ruger Military Reservation, the easternmost of the coastal defense forts.

From 1963 to 2001, the FAA had its air traffic control facilities in Diamond Head crater, which guided Hawai‘i-bound aircraft from 250 miles outside the Islands to within 20 miles of their intended airport.

Diamond Head State Monument was first officially established under an Executive Order by Hawaiʻi’s Governor Quinn in 1962; nearly 500-acres of land now make up the Monument.

This early designation covered about 145-acres in a horseshoe configuration preserving the famous profile and the south and west exterior slopes from the crater rim down to Diamond Head Road. Subsequently, Executive Orders have added additional lands to the Monument.

The interior of the crater had been closed to the public from 1906 until 1968. (Remember the Sunshine Festivals back then?) In 1976, DLNR’s Division of State Parks became the agency responsible for the planning and management of the Monument – it is now open every day.

Two major tunnels (Kāhala Tunnel and Kapahulu Tunnel) provide pedestrian and vehicular access into the crater.

Two separate trail systems (interior and exterior) address different needs and purposes. The exterior trail system has a dual function as a jogging and bicycle path traversing the mauka end of the Monument and along the existing trail on the lower ʻEwa-makai slopes. The interior trail system leads to the summit of Lē¬ʻahi (1.6-mile round trip.)

Diamond Head is open daily 6 am to 6 pm, every day of the year including holidays, with entrance Fees of $5.00 per car or $1 per person for pedestrians (the money goes to State Parks.) Mountain Biking is not allowed on this trail. No dogs allowed in Diamond Head State Monument.

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Overlooking Waikiki-1929
Overlooking Waikiki-1929
Waikiki-Diamond_Head-1940
Waikiki-Diamond_Head-1940
1935 Chevrolet convertible with Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach in the background
1935 Chevrolet convertible with Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach in the background
Waikiki_Beach-Boats-1935
Waikiki_Beach-Boats-1935
Waikiki with Diamond Head in the background-hawaii-gov-1934
Waikiki with Diamond Head in the background-hawaii-gov-1934
Joseph_Dwight_Strong_-_'View_of_Diamond_Head',_oil_on_canvas-1880s
Joseph_Dwight_Strong_-_’View_of_Diamond_Head’,_oil_on_canvas-1880s
Joseph_Dwight_Strong_-_'Hawaiians_at_Rest,_Waikiki',_oil_on_canvas,_c._1884
Joseph_Dwight_Strong_-_’Hawaiians_at_Rest,_Waikiki’,_oil_on_canvas,_c._1884
From_Mccully_to_Diamond_Head-1900
From_Mccully_to_Diamond_Head-1900
Diamond_Head-LOC-aep-his180
Diamond_Head-LOC-aep-his180
'Diamond_Head_from_Waikiki',_oil_on_canvas_painting_by_Enoch_Wood_Perry,_Jr.,_c._1865
‘Diamond_Head_from_Waikiki’,_oil_on_canvas_painting_by_Enoch_Wood_Perry,_Jr.,_c._1865
Diamond Head & Honolulu from the Punchbowl-(vic&becky)-1953
Diamond Head & Honolulu from the Punchbowl-(vic&becky)-1953
Automobile with Diamond Head and Waikiki in background, 1933
Automobile with Diamond Head and Waikiki in background, 1933
Alexander_Scott_-_Diamond_Head_from_Tantalus',_oil_on_canvas,_c.1906-8
Alexander_Scott_-_Diamond_Head_from_Tantalus’,_oil_on_canvas,_c.1906-8
Clipper plane passes Diamond Head-1935
Clipper plane passes Diamond Head-1935
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-Transpac_Finish
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-Transpac_Finish
Diamond Head

 

Filed Under: Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Waikiki, Leahi, Diamond Head, Fort Ruger, Sunshine Festival, Crater Festival

July 18, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 097 – January 27, 1820

January 27, 1820 – 10 o’clock. A.M. – With a fine morning, and a fair breeze which sprang up soon after last evening sacrifice, we find ourselves delivered from the dangers of Le Maire and rapidly and pleasantly advancing toward our turning point, the place of hope and fear. (One o’clock) While at the rate of 8 knots an hour, the Brig serenely cuts her way, the long looked for cape rises full in view and all our hearts leap for joy. But in the midst of congratulations, which we gratefully acknowledge that our times and seasons are at the disposal of an allwise providence, it becomes us to rejoice with trembling lest we should not sufficiently glorify God. (2 o’clock, P.M.) The wind rises – dark clouds hover round. – the approach of a whirlwind is announced – all hands are ordered on deck – the sails are filled, – the dead lights in, – the companion way closed, and we are imprisoned below deck, – For a moment our Heavenly Father seems to hold the rod over us. (1/2 past 2 P.M.) The wind subsides – a gentle rain descends, – and light breaks in again. We know that he who made Cape Horn, and placed it as a waymark which the tempests of 60 centuries have not been able to remove can conduct us around it in safety. – nor shall whirlwinds nor storms prevent us from erecting upon it, in the name Jehovah, the “Rock of our Help,” the Ebanezer of the Owhyhean Mission. (3 o’clock, P.M.) The wind rises again, – All hands are called. The waves lift themselves up. – and our little trembling, tottering bark with its invaluable freight, yields to the opposing currents and lightly bends her course towards the South. (4 o’clock, P.M.) The sun breaks out in the clear western sky, while the dark tempest, passing off to the East, bears down upon the waters of the Atlantic, and leaves us running briskly South, and the cape gradually sinks behind a pleasant sea. – (6 o’clock, P.M.) A stiff breeze and heavy sea from the west. (1/2 past 6) The sun shuts in behind the cloud. A squall approaches. (7 o’clock, P.M.) The sun breaks out again and smiles. Thus rapid are our changes. Thus transitory are our scenes, and thus fluctuating the joys and sorrows of mortal life. (Thaddeus Journal)

27th. Early in the morning. We now find ourselves clear of the dangerous shoals and rocks of Terra del Fuego and Staten land, and sail 5 knots an hour, in a direct course towards C. H. The Lord has been our deliverer hitherto, we will bless his name, and still trust him.
12 o-clock. See cape H. about 8 leagues to the N. W.; 9 or 8 knots an hour, and the sea is so smooth that we can scarcely perceive the Brig to move. This is rarely the case in this region of storms. How long it will continue thus, is known only to him who is able to make the wind the sea obey him. – I have taken a Northwesterly view of Cape Horn which is said to be correct, I intend to send a copy; also a view of the strait of Le Maire, Both of them are just representations. Perhaps they may gratify American friends. 2 o-clock P. M.
Bow suddenly is our situation changed a few moments since all was peace and. we were sailing as pleasantly as at any time since we left America; Now. all is confusion, ‘a hailstorm is rising, all hands are summoned on deck to take in sail, one cries out from Masthead “a whirlwind” what the Lord is about to do with us we know not; one thing we do know, and this shall comfort us in every trial and danger; He loves his own cause, and if he has any work assigned in Owhyhee (Hawaii), he will be our refuge and our Salvation. 5 o-clock. The storm was terrible but it is now over. The whirlwind passed a few rods from us, but did not affect us. The wind is a head the waves run very high and a strong current takes us back to the E. 4 miles an hour. 1 o-clock lost sight of C. Horn by being carried so far to the east. (Samuel & Nancy Ruggles)

Jan. 27th. Thursday morning finds us favored of the Lord. What shall we render unto his name I I did think, beloved sisters, yesterday, two o’clock, as I came down from deck, if GOD would send us favorable winds and take us out from these dark mountains, where black clouds gathered on all sides, I should praise his name, and feel under renewed obligations to be careful for nothing, but by prayer and supplication, with, thanksgiving, to make known my requests unto the Lord. We are safely out of the Straits of Le-Maire, leaving these two islands, like little specks, sinking away in the dim horizon.
We go with speed, in a direct course, towards the Cape, while the sea is so smooth, that we can walk, sew or write, with no more inconvenience than if on land.
A little circumstance, which I have not mentioned, interested us, yesterday. A smoke was discovered rising from the beach, and by the aid of the glass, two men were seen kindling a fire. What their condition was we knew not, but could not avoid thinking the smoke might be intended as a signal of distress, on that desolate shore. But we could not reach them had we attempted it. The vessel, in some favourable moments, would make her way to them, then by the current, be driven far back again, at which times, it appeared as if they renewed their smoke; but we could only hope they were natives.
If they were some poor ship-wrecked mariners—my heart is cold at the thought!
11 o’clock. A huge whale has just come sporting around the vessel. The little multitude was at once on deck, but Mr. B— and I busy in our little room, did not go till we heard Capt. B—’s voice calling us. The view of the monster rewarded us for laying down our books. But a still more interesting view increased the animation of each countenance, as our Capt., pointing off in the course whither we were rapidly going, says, “There is Cape Horn!” then looking up on his full spread sails, adds, “I never passed this region in this manner.”
2 o’clock. A cloud arises, carrying darkness and terror in its aspect. The sails are all ordered to be furled, the passengers down, the dead lights in and the companion-way shut. A few moments since the sun shone, and joy was in every countenance. Well, I hope composure is still in most hearts, for tho “the sea is dark and deep—the Pilot’s sure”. (Sybil Bingham)

Jan. 27.-Yesterday (January 26, 1820) we entered the Strait of Le Marie, fifteen miles wide. The scene before us was interesting and sublime. On either side was a long continued range of mountains. The tops of some were covered with snow, while others reached to the clouds. There the naked eye could discover forests, trees, grass and sandbanks. But what interested my feelings most of all was the discovery of a smoke on the island of Terra del Fuego. Through spy-glasses two men could be discovered near it. Whether they were natives or shipwrecked mariners we knew not, nor could it be ascertained without much labor and danger. (Lucy Goodale Thurston)

Jan. 27. I wish my dear parents knew how contented and thankful we are for the smiles of an indulgent providence. Yesterday morning the enter the Straits of Le Maire with a good breeze which carried us about halfway through when we were suddenly becalmed and continued near the same place except the current from the Pacific rather drove us back until about 9 o’clock in the evening, when we were again blessed with favorable winds. Lying as we were between two islands we were exposed to danger, liable to be driven against them on either side, and swallowed up by the devouring element. Well may we say, had not the Lord been on our side, we might have perished. But His Almighty arm has been extended for our deliverance and safety. Since about 9 o’clock our progress has been rapid, and we have almost lost sight of the islands before mentioned. Two or three others have this morning been discovered farther south. In this region, where we expected boisterous weather and rough sailing, we are so far agreeably disappointed. The vessel slides along smoothly and gently we have seen nothing of the snow and hail storm spoken of by many. Captain B says, he never before witnessed so smooth that time in this place we have known. We have no occasion to distrust our covenant god, who is safely conducting us on our passage and who we trust well in his arm due time in his own du time land us at our desired haven.
1 o’clock. Almost every hour of this day brings with it some important event. Between eleven and twelve, we were on deck gazing at the large at a large whale, which came spouting around the vessel, when someone observed they saw Cape Horn. It however proved to be mistaken cape. Though our passage should thus far has been prospered beyond our expectations, we must expect some rough and unpleasant weather before we have doubled the cape. Even while I am writing I hear Capt B’s voice ordering his men to take down sales for we are threatened with a storm. (Mercy Partridge Whitney Journal)

27. – We left the straits this morning with a fine breeze from the north. At 12 major land (or rather rocks) again, suppose that first to be Cape Horn, but prove to be what is called Mistaken Cape. At 2 a squall struck us accompanied by a severe gale. We are now laying too, & it is uncertain when we double the Cape. In this ‘patria nimbornum’ (country of winds) ships are sometimes driven about 6 or 8 weeks before they can get safely round. (Samuel Whitney Journal)

January 27, 1820, 10 o’clock P.M. – At 8 this evening while our vessel was tossing upon the rising billows, her sails close furled, her decks washed with a heavy spray continually breaking over, and while a strong west wind from it roared through her rigging drifted her towards the South East, we assembled, as usual for evening prayers, read the 46th Psalm, and sung the 83rd hymn of the Select., acknowledged the good hand of our God upon us in his past undeserved favors, endeavored to lay ourselves peacefully at the feet of divine soverignty, and to implore the kind protection, the sure guidance, and the continued presence and blessing of his whose unfailing goodness constrained us unitedly and devoutly and joyfully to say “Hitherto hath the Lord helped us.” (Closed this interview with the 84th Select. H. Hothen). Though even now his waves and his billows are going over us we have great cause for gratitude that we are now so far from land as to be comparatively free from danger. This gale, had it been commissioned a few hours sooner might have dashed us on the rocks of Staten Land. But the Captain of our Salvation is our pilot, and we will not fear. “The Lord of Hosts is with us, the God of Jacob is our Refuge.” (Thaddeus Journal)

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Filed Under: Voyage of the Thaddeus, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings Tagged With: thevoyageofthethaddeus

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