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October 16, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Mānā

Mānā is a coastal plain with an ancient sea cliff at its inner edge, which extends from Waimea in the south to the north on the western shores of Kauaʻi.

Throughout prehistory, large areas of the Mānā Plain were covered by the great Mānā wetlands, allowing native Hawaiians to canoe as far south as Waimea.

The Legend of Barking Sands suggests there was an old Hawaiian fisherman who lived in a hut near the beach with his nine dogs. During his fishing trips he would tie his dogs to stakes in the sand, three to each of three stakes. He would then get into his canoe and go fishing.

One day while he was at sea and the dogs were tied as usual, he was caught in a very bad storm. For hours he battled the heavy seas until he was finally able to return to land. He was so exhausted that he crawled to his hut, forgetting to untie his dogs.

When he awoke the next morning and went outside, the dogs were nowhere in sight. All he saw were three small mounds of sand where the dogs had been tied. As he stepped on one of the mounds, he heard a low bark. Another step brought another bark; he still couldn’t find the dogs.

Believing the dogs had been buried in the sand because of the storm the day before, the fisherman began to dig. As each shovel full was removed, more sand took its place. He finally gave up, and every day after that when he crossed the beach he could hear the low barking.

The dogs were never found, and to this day the sands of Mānā have been known as Barking Sands.

The scientific explanation of these sounds from the sands is that the grains of Mānā sand are tiny, hollow spheres. When rubbed together, the give off a popping sound similar to the barking of dogs. This only occurs when the sand is very dry. Wet sand gives off almost no sound.

Up until the mid-1880s, the great Mānā wetlands, east of the plain, covered large areas of the lowlands.  Approximately 1,700-acres of permanent, semi-permanent and seasonal wetlands were present on the Mānā Plain.

After the arrival of Europeans to the island, aquaculture transitioned to agriculture through the eventual draining of the wetlands and the cultivation of sugar cane and rice.

One of the first European settlers, Valdemar Knudsen, drained a portion of the Mānā wetlands be excavating a ditch through to the ocean a Waiele.  The first sugarcane was planted in Kekaha in 1878.

The area is now home to farmers and a military facility that is known as the Pacific Missile Range Facility (PMRF.)

PMRF is a test and evaluation facility for Ballistic Missile Defense programs.  It is the world’s largest instrumented multi-environment range capable of supporting surface, subsurface, air and space operations simultaneously.

There are over 1,100-square miles of instrumented underwater range and over 42,000-square miles of controlled airspace.

In 1921, the land area known as the Barking Sands was acquired by the Kekaha Sugar Company. This area became a runway for private planes.  In 1932, Australian pilot Kingsford Smith completed a historic flight from Barking Sands to Australia in his Ford Trimotor.

In 1940, the US Army acquired the land, naming the installation Mana Airport and paving the runway.  In 1941, the Army acquired additional acreage, giving Mana Airport a total of 2,058-acres.  Private airlines frequently utilized the airport and during World War II there were a great deal of military flight operations there.

In 1954 the base was officially designated Bonham Air Force Base.

The US Navy’s first began operations at Bonham in 1956, testing its Regulus I missile.  Soon after, in 1958, the Pacific Missile Range Facility was established in order to support the growing demand of the Navy at Bonham.

In 1964, the Pacific Missile Range Facility and Bonham were transferred to the Navy, becoming Pacific Missile Range Facility, Barking Sands.

In 2004, when I was at DLNR, an Agricultural Preservation Initiative (API) was approved by the State of Hawai‘i Board of Land and Natural Resources.

The API provides a buffer to PMRF and ensures that land on the Mānā Plain owned by the State of Hawai‘i and leased to the Agribusiness Development Corporation remains as agricultural lands (the agreement runs to 2030.)

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Mana-Wall-DAGS-Reg2422-1907
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PMRF_aerial
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Mana_USGS_Quadrangle-Mana-1910_(portion)
Mana_USGS_Quadrangle-Mana-1910-(portion)
PMRF-Mana-map
071106-N-0000X-003 KAUAI, Hawaii (Nov. 6, 2007) - A threat representative target is launched from the Pacific Missile Range Facility (PMRF) to be intercepted as part of a Missile Defense Agency test of the sea-based capability under development. This was part of a multiple simultaneous engagement involving two ballistic missile targets that were intercepted about 250 miles from Kauai and approximately 100 miles above the Pacific Ocean. The Standard Missile-3 was one of two interceptors launched from Pearl Harbor-based guided-missile cruiser USS Lake Erie (CG 70) that collided with two ballistic missile targets launched from the Pacific Missile Range Test Facility in Kauai, Hawaii, within minutes of one another. U.S. Navy photo (RELEASED)
071106-N-0000X-003 KAUAI, Hawaii (Nov. 6, 2007) – A threat representative target is launched from the Pacific Missile Range Facility (PMRF) to be intercepted as part of a Missile Defense Agency test of the sea-based capability under development. This was part of a multiple simultaneous engagement involving two ballistic missile targets that were intercepted about 250 miles from Kauai and approximately 100 miles above the Pacific Ocean. The Standard Missile-3 was one of two interceptors launched from Pearl Harbor-based guided-missile cruiser USS Lake Erie (CG 70) that collided with two ballistic missile targets launched from the Pacific Missile Range Test Facility in Kauai, Hawaii, within minutes of one another. U.S. Navy photo (RELEASED)
180-degree-panorama-Barking_Sands_beach_in_Kauai
B-24 aircraft at Barking Sands, Kauai, refueling or regrouping prior to Southwest Pacific deployment c1944-45
B-24 aircraft at Barking Sands, Kauai, refueling or regrouping prior to Southwest Pacific deployment c1944-45
Barking Sands Air Base, Kauai, with B-24, C-47 and C-45 aircraft. 1942
Barking Sands Air Base, Kauai, with B-24, C-47 and C-45 aircraft. 1942
Barking Sands Field, Kauai, TH 9-4-1941
Barking Sands Field, Kauai, TH 9-4-1941
Barking Sands Field, Kauai, T. H. 9-4-1941
Barking Sands Field, Kauai, T. H. 9-4-1941
Constructing Barking Sands Air Base, c1944-1945 with B-24 aircraft.
Constructing Barking Sands Air Base, c1944-1945 with B-24 aircraft.
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Missile_launch_from_Pacific_Missile_Range
081101-N-0000X-002 PACIFIC OCEAN (Nov. 1, 2008) A ballistic threat target missile is launched from the Pacific Missile Range Facility, Barking Sands, Kauai, Hawaii, enroute to an intercept over an open ocean area northwest of Kauai as part of Pacific Blitz 08. The target was successfully intercepted by a Standard Missile - 3 (SM-3) launched from the Pearl Harbor-based guided-missile destroyer USS Paul Hamilton (DDG 60).(U.S. Navy photo/Released)
081101-N-0000X-002 PACIFIC OCEAN (Nov. 1, 2008) A ballistic threat target missile is launched from the Pacific Missile Range Facility, Barking Sands, Kauai, Hawaii, enroute to an intercept over an open ocean area northwest of Kauai as part of Pacific Blitz 08. The target was successfully intercepted by a Standard Missile – 3 (SM-3) launched from the Pearl Harbor-based guided-missile destroyer USS Paul Hamilton (DDG 60).(U.S. Navy photo/Released)

Filed Under: Military, Place Names Tagged With: PMRF, Pacific Missile Range, Mana, Hawaii, Kauai, Waimea, Kekaha

October 16, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 007 – October 29, 1819

October 29, 1819
October 29, 1819 – Favored with pleasant weather, and some of our number with comfortable health. Our divine conductor is good even to the unthankful and evil. (Lat 40.25. Lon. 57, 34) Last evening was so much relieved from seasickness as to enjoy the pleasure of lifting up our voices together in one of the songs of Zion. (Thaddeus Journal)

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Voyage of the Thaddeus Tagged With: thevoyageofthethaddeus

October 15, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lapakahi State Historical Park

Lapakahi (“single ridge”) State Historical Park is the archaeological site of the remains of a traditional Hawaiian fishing community. It was believed to have been inhabited about 600-700-years ago (1300s.)

Lapakahi was a place of the maka‘āinana, the fishermen and farmers. They worked to sustain the resources and support their families.

The rolling hills and gulches sheltered this cove from the strong Kohala wind. The sea was rich in food and the soil nurtured their crops. Black stone walls and thatched roofs soon appeared on the landscape.

As the village prospered, the families moved inland to grow their crops of kalo (taro) and ‘uala (sweet potato). Families along the shore (makai) traded fish for kalo from the uplands (mauka).

Pa‘akai (“salt from the sea” – for seasoning and preservative for food) was taken mauka while olonā plants were brought makai to make nets and fishing line. A trail curbed with stones connected mauka and makai and the people of Lapakahi travelled this trail exchanging the resources of the land and sea.

Parts of this former village have been partially restored but most of the rocky walls and remains are original. Today, this 265-acre State Park is the site of an ancient Hawaiian settlement located along the shoreline of the North Kohala coastline.

A self-guided tour takes visitors over marked trails (with a free guide brochure) and leads them through several acres of this historic village.

Highlighted sites include house sites and a canoe halau (long house); runs through a game area where visitors can try spear throwing, ‘ulu maika (disc rolling) and konane (checkers); and leads to a fishing shrine and salt pans along the rocky shoreline.

Lava stone walls formed the lower portion of the homes and shelters built here. Wooden poles supported the pili grass roofs and walls. Trees, bushes, grass and rocks were all used as food sources or utensils for building, cooking or fishing.

In 1979, the nearshore waters were added to the Marine Life Conservation District (MLCD) system under DLNR. Within Koaiʻe Cove are two small beaches consisting of coral rubble (there is no sand beach). The cove provides the easiest access to the water.

The nearshore bottom is mostly boulders and lava fingers with some coral. The cove’s northern portion has some good coral growth close to shore, but coral and fish are most abundant in the southern portion. Considerable marine life is also found around the outcropping of rocks to the right of the cove’s center.

There is a remarkable diversity of fish species within the MLCD, as nearly all nearshore species typical of the North Kohala coast are represented. During the winter, humpback whales are frequently spotted just offshore.

Near the entrance to the park is an educational display of implements used by the ancient villagers. Pick up the guide brochure and take the self-guided tour through the marked trails at your convenience.

The Park is located on the northwestern coast of Hawaiʻi; Lapakahi is about 12 miles north of Kawaihae. Take Hwy 270 north from Kawaihae to Lapakahi State Historical Park. The park entrance is on the left side of the highway, and marked with a sign. Parking is available at the end of the road. (Lots of information here from DLNR.)

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Lapakahi State Park (pohaku)
Lapakahi State Park-entrance sign
Lapakahi State Park-sign
Lapakahi_beach
Lapakahi_coastal_area
Lapakahi-state-historical-park
Lapakahi-village-coastal-area
looking-over-lapakahi-village-kohala-coast
Reconstructed hale (house) at the village of Lapakahi
Lapakahi-GoogleEarth
Lapakahi-map
Lapakahi State Park-Brochure-noting_sites_and_uses

Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Kohala, North Kohala, Lapakahi

October 15, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 008 – October 30, 1819

October 30, 1819
October 30, 1819 – Head winds from S.E. Heavy sea and cloudy weather.
Lat. 57. 40. (Thaddeus Journal)

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Voyage of the Thaddeus Tagged With: thevoyageofthethaddeus

October 14, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Wānanalua Church

Wānanalua (“double prophecy”) is an ahupuaʻa in Hāna (“work” or “profession”) and birthplace of Kaʻahumanu. (The birthplace is in a cave on Kaʻuiki Hill on the right side of Hāna Bay.)

There is a trail that leads along Kaʻuiki Hill to a red sand beach pocket. Along this trail is a plaque marking the site where Queen Kaʻahumanu was born in a nearby cave. She was the favorite wife of King Kamehameha I.

In 1790, Kamehameha invaded Maui, landing and winning a battle in Hāna.

He worked his way north from Hāna and engaged Kalanikūpule’s armies at Hāmākualoa in the battle of Pu‘ukoa‘e – and then at ‘Īao Valley in the famous battle of Kepaniwai.

It was following this battle that Kamehameha negotiated with Kalola to marry Keōpūolani (another of his wives, and the mother of Liholiho and Kauikeaouli.)

In 1838, missionary Daniel Conde organized a mission in Hāna and established the Wānanalua Church. (It’s across the street from the present day Hotel Hana-Maui, which was originally called the Kaʻuiki Inn.)

The church started with a thatched structure and by 1842 work commenced on the present building.

Wānanalua Church is a large stone building, the walls of which have been plastered over. Stone for the church was gathered from the ruins of a heiau, and the original roof was thatch.

The framing timbers came from the mountains and coral was gathered from the ocean and burned for lime and used to make mortar.

It is typical of the churches of this period in that it was constructed of local materials by Hawaiians under the supervision of a missionary, and was built to serve the Hawaiian community. Services were held in the Hawaiian language until the 1930s.

The church sits conspicuously on a large lot surrounded by a lawn with scattered plantings. A lava rock wall separates the church lot from the street.

The roof was reframed in 1856, which allowed for a shingle roof to be installed in 1862, replacing the thatch.

In 1897, the building was reroofed, refloored and replastered. It is assumed the bell tower was also constructed at that time. The church has remained in continuous operation and is one of the better maintained nineteenth century stone churches on Maui.

Daniel Conde and his family were the first missionaries to permanently settle in Hāna, which remains a somewhat remote part of Maui, even today.

At that time there were approximately 6,000 Hawaiians living in the area (the population was 1,235 in the 2010 census.)

The Condes remained in Hāna until 1849, when they moved to Wailuku. After the death of Mrs. Conde in 1855, Daniel and his children returned to New York.

The Wānanalua Church and the Hāna Courthouse are the only two surviving structures from the nineteenth century left in Hāna.

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings Tagged With: Hawaii, Maui, Hana, Daniel Conde, Wananalua

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