Kailua | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

July 2, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ulupō Heiau

About 6,000 years ago and before the arrival of the Hawaiians, Kawainui (the large [flow of] fresh water) and Ka‘elepulu (the moist blackness) were bays connected to the ocean and extended a mile inland of the present coastline. This saltwater environment is indicated by inland deposits of sand and coral.

A sand bar began forming across Kawainui Bay around 2,500 years ago creating Kawainui Lagoon filled with coral, fish and shellfish. The Hawaiians probably first settled along the fringes of this lagoon.

Gradually, erosion of the hillsides surrounding Kawainui began to fill in the lagoon with sediments.

About 500 years ago, early Hawaiians maintained the freshwater fishpond in Kawainui; the fishpond was surrounded on all sides by a system of canals (‘auwai) bringing water from Maunawili Stream and springs to walled taro lo‘i.

In 1750, Kailua was the political seat of power for the district of Ko‘olaupoko and a favored place of the O‘ahu chiefs for its abundance of fish and good canoe landings.

The houses of the Aliʻi (chiefs), their families, and their attendants surrounded Kailua Bay. Behind the sand beach was the large, fertile expanse of Kawainui which has been converted to a fishpond surrounded by an agricultural field system.

Kawainui was a large, 400 acre fishpond with an abundance of mullet, awa, and o’opu. Ka’elepulu and Nuʻupia fishponds are nearby. The makaʻāinana (commoners) provided support for this chiefly residence.

Farmers grow kalo (taro) in the irrigated lo’i (fields) along the streams from Maunawili and along the edges of the fishponds. Crops of dryland kalo, banana, sweet potato, and sugarcane mark the fringes of the marsh. The fishermen harvest fish from the fishponds and the sea.

The kahuna (priests) oversee the religious ceremonies and rites at several heiau around Kawainui. There is Ulupō Heiau on the east with Pahukini Heiau and Holomakani Heiau on the west side.

Ulupō Heiau measures 140 by 180 feet with walls up to 30 feet in height. The construction of this massive terraced platform required a large work force under the direction of a powerful ali’i.

Several O’ahu chiefs lived at Kailua and probably participated in ceremonies at Ulupō Heiau, including Kākuhihewa and Kualiʻi.

Kualiʻi fought many battles and he may have rededicated Ulupō Heiau as a heiau luakini.

Maui chief Kahekili came to O’ahu in the 1780s and lived in Kailua after defeating O’ahu high chief Kahahana for control of the island.

Kamehameha I worked at Kawainui fishpond and is said to have eaten the edible mud (lepo ai ia) of Kawainui when there was a shortage of kalo. But by 1795, when Kamehameha I conquered O’ahu, it is believed that Ulupō Heiau was already abandoned.

Farmers grew kalo (taro) in the irrigated lo‘i (fields) along the streams from Maunawili and along the edges of the fishponds. Crops of dryland kalo, banana, sweet potato and sugarcane mark the fringes of the marsh. Fishermen harvest fish from the fishponds and the sea.

In the 1880s, Chinese farmers converted the taro fields of Kawainui to rice, but abandoned their farms by 1920. Cattle grazed throughout much of Kawainui.

Ulupō Heiau was transferred from the Territorial Board of Agriculture and Forestry to Territorial Parks in 1954.

In the early 1960s, through a joint effort of State Parks and Kaneohe Ranch, the stone walkway was placed atop the heiau and the stone paving was laid around the springs. The bronze plaque was installed in 1962 by the Commission on Historical Sites.

Ulupo Heiau is listed on the National and Hawaii Registers of Historic Places. At Ulupo Heiau, State Parks seeks to promote preservation of the heiau and heighten public awareness about the cultural history of Kawai Nui.

The Kailua Hawaiian Civic Club and ‘Ahahui Malama I ka Lōkahi are the co-curators at this State Park heiau complex.

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May 25, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kawainui Marsh

Ko‘olau volcano started its life as a seamount above the Hawaiian hotspot around 4-million years ago. It broke sea level some time prior to 2.9-million years ago.

About 2-million years ago, much of the northeast flank of Ko‘olau volcano was sheared off and material was swept more than 140-miles north of O‘ahu and Moloka‘i onto the ocean floor (named the Nu‘uanu Avalanche) – one of the largest landslides on Earth.

Following a period of dormancy, Ko‘olau eruptions about 1-million years ago (known as the Honolulu Volcanic Series) created landmarks such as Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay and Punchbowl Crater. Ko‘olau’s eroded remnants make up the Ko‘olau Mountain Range.

About 6,000 years ago and before the arrival of the Hawaiians, Kawainui (“the large [flow of] fresh water”) and Ka‘elepulu (“the moist blackness”) were bays connected to the ocean and extended a mile inland of the present coastline. This saltwater environment is indicated by inland deposits of sand and coral.

Gradually, erosion of the hillsides surrounding Kawainui began to fill in the lagoon with sediments.

In 1750, Kailua was the political seat of power for the district of Ko‘olaupoko and a favored place of the O‘ahu chiefs for its abundance of fish and good canoe landings.

Kawainui was once the largest cultivated freshwater fishpond on Oahu. Rimming the wetland are numerous heiau (temples.)

Farmers grew kalo (taro) in the irrigated lo‘i (fields) along the streams from Maunawili and along the edges of the fishponds. Crops of dryland kalo, banana, sweet potato and sugarcane marked the fringes of the marsh. Fishermen harvested fish from the fishponds and the sea.

In the 1880s, Chinese farmers converted the taro fields of Kawainui to rice, but abandoned their farms by 1920. Cattle grazed throughout much of Kawainui.

The marsh drains into the ocean at the north end of Kailua Beach through Kawainui Canal (Oneawa Channel.)

The marsh attracts migratory seabirds and is home to four species of endangered waterbirds: the Hawaiian stilt (aeʻo), the Hawaiian coot (ʻalae keʻokeʻo), the Hawaiian gallinule (ʻalaeʻula) and the Hawaiian duck (kōloa maoli).

In 1979, the US National Registrar for Historic Places issued a “Determination of Eligibility Notification” finding that Kawainui Marsh area is eligible for listing in the National Register for Historic Places.

According to the determination, “Kawainui Marsh is important as a major component of a larger cultural district which would include … the ponding/wet agricultural area … remains of extensive terracing systems, ceremonial sites, burial sites, and habitation areas associated with this agricultural complex”.

In 2005, the Kawainui and Hāmākua Marsh Complex was designated as a Wetlands of International Importance and added to the Ramsar List (Ramsar site no. 1460.)

The Convention on Wetlands (Ramsar, Iran, 1971) – called the “Ramsar Convention” – is an intergovernmental treaty that embodies the commitments of its member countries to maintain the ecological character of their Wetlands of International Importance and to plan for the “wise use”, or sustainable use, of all of the wetlands in their territories.

Kawainui Marsh also functions as a flood storage basin to protect Kailua. As part of flood control measures, the Oneawa Canal and levee started in 1950 and were completed a few years later. When flood waters over-topped the levee and flooded Coconut Grove in the December 31, 1987-January 1, 1988 flood, the levee was raised and floodwall added.

Projects are underway to restore waterbird habitat, as well as care for some of the historic sites. DLNR has plans for visitor center and trails around the wetland – they have been on the books for a long time, it would be nice to see those community visions come to fruition.

Lots of good work is being done by lots of dedicated folks in helping to restore Kawainui Marsh, including ‘Ahahui Mālama I Ka Lōkahi (led by Doc Burrows,) Kailua Hawaiian Civic Club and others.

When I was a kid, we referred to this area as the “swamp” – many of the old maps referred to it as such. Auto parts shops lined the road at its edge; the dump was nearby. Times have changed.

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January 25, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Sky Ranch

It’s not clear when it opened, but in the 1940s and ‘50s, there is clear evidence of the “Kailua Airport” on the Windward side of O‘ahu, reportedly, privately-owned and operated by Bob Whittinghill.

When work was started in 1948 on the new airport in Kailua-Kona, to avoid confusion with the Kailua Airport on Oʻahu, the Big Island’s airport was named “Kona Airport.”

In 1954 it was “enlarged and improved to handle an expected resurgence of prospective fliers. (T)he airport is prepared to offer flying lessons under a complete ‘pay-as-you-fly’ program.” (Advertiser, May 23, 1954)

It was generally referred to as ‘Sky Ranch’ and “was a grass field in Kailua, windward side of Oahu. It was located parallel to the southern fence of Kaneohe Marine Base, near the Mōkapu gate to the base, and west of Mōkapu Boulevard.”

“The runway was where the east/west portion of ‘Aikahi Loop is now. It would have appeared in any sectional published pre-1960. It had a 200′ asphalt strip & about 1,800′ of grass, and power lines at the East end, along Mōkapu Blvd.”

“There was a large Quonset hut as a hangar, shop combination, and a small raised house that served as the office & bathroom. There was a gasoline-powered pump & 3,500 gallon tank of 80/87 avgas.”

“The field was operated by Robert Whittinghill, who was an instructor at the state aircraft mechanic school at Honolulu Airport.” (Hurd; Freeman)

“One man who’s licked the commuting problem over the Pali is Bob King of Kailua who lives a block away from the Kailua Sky Ranch landing strip and works at Honolulu airport. He usually flies to work.”

“It takes him an average of seven minutes over the Pali, about 16 minutes by way of Koko head. He claims flying is six time safer that driving a car, 12 times safer than driving across the Pali.” (Krauss, March 2, 1959)

Besides recreational and commuter flying, there were other aviation activities there. “(N)ews has arrived from Hawaii of the formation of the Hawaii Soaring Club with Woody Brown as President.”

“Plans call for the operation of Pratt-Reads from Kailua Sky Ranch on Oahu with Kipapa Field as a secondary base of operations. We are glad to hear these beautiful islands which have in the past been the site of some interesting soaring flights will once again be the scene of soaring activity.” (Soaring, Jan-Feb, 1959)

Likewise, “Parachuting is rapidly becoming a very popular sport. Quite ordinary young men – and women – are jumping from aircraft every weekend all over the United States, including Hawaii.”

The Aloha Sky Divers “meets every Sunday at the Kailua Sky Ranch, a short walk from the Pali Palms. Its members, floating down under colored canopies, have become a familiar sight in these parts.” Star Bulletin, July 14, 1961)

In addition, “Oahu’s only Air Scout squadron has been launched at Kailua Sky ranch, where a model plane meet is scheduled. … a clubhouse with work shop has been made available for both the Boy Scouts and the model plane enthusiast of Windward Oahu.”

“Bob Whittinghill is adviser for the aero squadron, composed of Boy Scouts 14 and over … the model plane meet set for today is the third held by Kailua Sky ranch. The two earlier meets drew about 1,000 persons at each event”. (Advertiser, May 24, 1954)

“Robert Whittinghill (leased) Kailua Sky Ranch from Kaneohe Ranch Company on a short-notice basis.” (Star-Bulletin, October 29, 1956) While pressure was building to keep the air field for recreational flights, ultimately, pressure for residential home development overcame that.

“About 15 planes will leave this weekend on a final, nostalgic flight from the Kailua Sky Ranch, Oahu’s only remaining private airport for light planes.”

“The planes will head for temporary quarters at busy Honolulu Airport as bulldozers move in to plow the Sky Ranch airstrip for a housing subdivision.” (Star-Bulletin, July 20, 1961)

“‘Aikahi Park, a prestige home development designed for families growing in stature and size, is being opened this Labor Day weekend by Centex-Trousdale.” (Prices ranged from $25,050 to $27,350, “on low rent Kaneohe Ranch Co 55-year leasehold land.”)

“Homes in the park have been designed by Vladimir Ossipoff, FAIA, who has won many architectural awards for local residences. They are in Hawaiian styles with three and four bedrooms, the latter containing fireplaces.” (Star-Bulletin, September 2, 1962)

Whittinghill also ran (since 1947) the Aero-Tech Division of Honolulu Technical School, a State education arm for training aviation mechanics, situated in a hanger at Honolulu International Airport. (Advertiser, September 18, 1963)

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November 25, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Early Recollections of Missionary Life in Kailua, Hawaii

“As a settlement of some 4000 people crowded along one third mile of sea-shore, Kailua was the only place in Hawaii worthy the name of town, except perhaps the one at Hilo Bay.”

“Kailua consisted of native houses thatched either with pili or lauhala, the majority in various stages of decay. The aspect of the people was sordid, evincing ignorance, degredation, poverty and much ill health.”

“Here and there were dwellings of petty chiefs in whose yards were, cocoanut and kou trees of great luxuriance, as well as an occasional puhala.”

“When the pioneer missionaries in 1820 made their first landing at Kailua, it had recently been the chief residence of the aged Kamehameha, and was still in some degree the capital city of the group.”

“It was the permanent residence of Kuakini, the imperious Governor of the island, whose stone house stood at the north end beyond the little bay, which has always been the principal landing.”

“Beyond the Governor’s house, was Kamehameha’s old habitation where he died. Seaward still was a platform upon which stood five gigantic and hideous wooden idols, elaborately carved.”

“(These) had ceased to be worshipped but for some reason, probably respect for the deceased monarch, had escaped the general destruction of the idols in 1819.”

“I recall few names or faces of the native people. Very distinct in memory is the benevable face of a line old Christian lady Kekupuohi.”

“She had been a young wife of King Kalaniopuu, and had personally witnessed the death of the unfortunate Capt. James Cook, on the 4th of February, 1779, when he rashly attempted to force the King on board of his ship as a hostage.”

“I also well remember the immense and portly form of Governor Kuakini, who used to make a periodical foreonn visitation at our home, some times sitting at our table.”

“This royal chief was estimated to weigh not less than 500 pounds. The Governess Keoua, somewhat less ponderous, also of royal lineage frequently visited us.”

“Kuakini used to occupy my father’s large arm-chair into which he could hardly squeeze.”

“Missionary Work – I remember the Thurstons and Bishops as very busy in labors among the people. The two ministers held meetings twice on Sabbath in the immense thatched tabernacle at Kailua as well as every Wednesday afternoon.”

“The congregations in Kailua church were large, often over a thousand present. Sunday school was held after morning service, the natives having many copies of portions of scripture which they commit to memory quite diligently.”

“Much time was spent by Messrs. Thurston and Bishop in school work. They occupied many hours a week in personally teaching, and many more in superintending the work of the very incompetent native teachers whom they had trained and located in various districts.”

“Very great occasions indeed were the quarterly hoikes or school exhibitions, when, the schools and teachers assembled from the districts and displayed their proficiency in the presence of the Governor and the missionaries.” (Sereno Bishop; Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 23, 1897)

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November 17, 2017 by Peter T Young 6 Comments

Flagpole

Actually, this is a about a family that ended up in Kailua. We’ll get to the ‘flagpole’ portion of their adventures at the end of the summary. This is about Lloyd and Joanie Osborne; they married in 1938.

Lloyd was born in Newtonville, Massachusetts, on March 14, 1909; he graduated from Phillips-Exeter Academy and Yale University, where he was captain of the swimming team.

He led an all-star US swimming team on a Pacific and Japan tour in 1931, but passed up 1932 Olympic tryouts in order to enlist as a Naval Aviator, after earning his mechanical engineering degree.

Joan (Joanie) Dowsett Osborne, born July 26, 1916, was the daughter of Herbert and Laura Dowsett; she was a descendant of Gerrit Parmele Judd, a missionary physician in the Third Company of American Protestant missionaries to the Islands. Judd later resigned from the mission and became an advisor and translator to King Kamehameha III.

Joanie was a member of the Punahou School class of 1933, attended the Schools at Dobbs Ferry in Westchester, NY and Tufts University of Occupational Therapy.

Although Joanie was a swimmer from an early age, marriage and childrearing interrupted her swimming until her mid-fifties. It was as senior swimmers that inspired Joanie to join competitive swimming with Lloyd in the Masters Swim events.

In 1984, at the age of 75, Lloyd set two national records, the 200-meter butterfly in 4:51:77 and the 200-meter individual medley in 4:01:34. He has numerous other accolades in swimming (from the 1970s to 1990s.) His last, in 1992, was 1st Place in 400 freestyle (8:08:40;) he was 82.

He swam competitively, he told a reporter in 1985, because he wanted to stay healthy enough to make one particular financial transaction: “I’d like to write a check dated Jan. 2, 2000.” (He made it.)

During 14 years of competition, Joanie was listed in the US Masters National Top Ten Times in 174 events: ranking first in 53 events; second in 29; third in 20; and fourth in 22. She has held 28 pool event USMS National Records, one Long Distance National Record and four Master’s Age Group World Records.

Back to Lloyd’s aviation experience … After earning his wings in 1933 at Pensacola, Florida, Lloyd piloted landings and take offs from the world’s first aircraft carrier, the US Langley, a converted Navy oiler.

Following a stint in the engineering design department at Martin Aircraft, he joined Pan American Airways as a pilot, flying throughout the Caribbean and South America; one of his passengers was President Franklin D Roosevelt.

His WWII duty included command of an air control unit during amphibious operations at Saipan, Tinian and Iwo Jima, for which he earned two combat Bronze Star medals. He later served on the staff of Admiral Chester Nimitz, Commander in Chief of the Pacific Fleet.

After WWII, a unique type of air service called ‘flight seeing’ came into being. On April 2, 1946, Osborne started Hawaiian Air Transport Service Ltd, “a deluxe charter and tour service.”

It provided non-scheduled service to all Territorial airports and provided special tourist sight-seeing flights to the Neighbor Islands, and charter services as required. (hawaii-gov)

After operating for about 4-years, Hans Mueller took over the certificate and expanded that operation into Hawaiian Air Tour Service (HATS,) a full-fledged flight-seeing operation. (Allen)

The accomplishment that Joanie is most proud of is not her swimming, but the role she played in establishing Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park in Kona. Joanie lived in Kailua-Kona in the 1950s. During this period, she served on the Governor’s commission to save historical sites. Through her efforts, and others, the park was eventually created.

On August 13, 1959, over a thousand people gathered near the Sears’ end for the grand opening of Ala Moana Center. Lloyd Osborne was there, he was the center’s first general manager.

OK, the flagpole …

The Osbornes had a house on Kailua Beach. Most folks who surf or walk the beach will recall a flagpole standing proud and tall near the edge of the beach. The surf spot “Flagpoles” is right off shore.

That was the home of Lloyd and Joanie Osborne and their family. On July 4, 1969, to honor both his nation and his state, and to salute other states and countries he had visited, Lloyd put up the 30-foot flagpole himself.

Lloyd died April 19, 2001 at the age of 92; Joanie, his wife of 63 years, died July 20, 2014, missing her 98th birthday by six days. (Lots of information here is from Advertiser, Star-Advertiser and Punahou.)

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USS Langley (CV 1)-1st Aircraft Carrier

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Long one-quarter front left side aerial view from above of two Hawaiian Air Tour Service (HATS) Cessna T-50 “Bamboo Bombers” in flight over Waikiki, Honolulu, Hawaii, circa 1955. In the foreground is the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, with the Waikiki Theater behind; at far right is the Matson Moana Hotel. Believed to be the cover of a Hawaiian Air Tour Service (HATS) brochure.

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