Waikiki | Page 14 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

December 16, 2016 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

George Douglas Freeth, Jr

In 1889, the Redondo pier in California was a wharf at the foot of Emerald Street, designed to handle the enormous lumber trade from the Pacific Northwest. Two additional wharfs were added in 1895 and 1903.

Traffic into the port was so busy that ships had to wait their turn for a spot at one of the piers, as Santa Fe rail cars transported the cargo inland as fast as possible. (RedondoPier)

However, Redondo’s popularity began a slow decline when San Pedro Harbor started to take shape in 1899. By 1912, the Pacific Steamship Company stopped calling at Redondo altogether. (Megowan)

In 1907, real estate entrepreneurs Abott Kinney and Henry Huntington were heavily promoting their respective coastal resorts. Kinney had the lead, having dedicated his “Venice of America” (Venice Beach) on July 4, 1905. Henry Huntington, in June 1907, was putting the final touches on his own elaborate beach resort in Redondo Beach. (Verge)

At about that time, 19-year old, hapa-haole, George Douglas Freeth Jr, met up with Jack London and Alexander Hume Ford riding the waves at Waikiki. “I saw him tearing in on the back of (the wave,) standing upright on his board, carelessly poised”. The “young god bronzed with sunburn” gave London a surf lesson. (London)

“The whole method of surf riding and surf fighting, I learned, is one of non-resistance. Dodge the blow that is struck at you. Dive through the wave that is trying to slap you in the face. … Never be rigid. Relax.”

“The man who wants to learn surf riding must be a strong swimmer, and he must be used to going under the water. After that, fair strength and common sense are all that is required.” (London)

Around 1905, Freeth was the first – or among the first – to reintroduce angling across the wave as opposed to heading straight for shore. (Encyclopedia of Surfing)

“In 1907, (Freeth) left Hawaiʻi for the Golden State with letters in hand from Ford, Jack London and the Hawaiʻi Promotion Committee. His objective was to ‘give exhibitions of Hawaiian water sports to the people of that section.’” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser; Laderman)

The July 3, 1907 Pacific Commercial Advertiser announced Freeth’s departure from his native Hawaiʻi with a page 1 headline that read, “George Freeth Off To Coast – Will Illustrate Hawaiian Surfboarding to People in California.”

“The aquatic skills that had enamored London, Ford and the Hawaiʻi Promotion Committee were the same skills Freeth brought with him to California, where he found work for two of the major developers of the period, Abbot Kinney and Henry Huntington.” (Laderman)

Within six months of his arrival, Freeth was commuting between the two seaside communities aboard Huntington’s Pacific Electric Railway. At Huntington’s Redondo resort, Freeth performed his surfing act twice a day under the billing, “The Hawaiian Wonder.”

Freeth lived in Redondo Beach where he worked as a swim instructor/lifeguard at Huntington’s “Plunge,” which from afar looked more like a royal palace than a public swimming pool. With over 1,000-dressing rooms and three heated pools, the Redondo Plunge could hold as many as 2,000- swimmers at one time. (Verge)

“At Venice Beach, Freeth went to work training Kinney’s Venice Lifesaving Crew. Freeth taught the crew to become one with the water. Rip currents, for example, were not to be fought against, but instead used by the rescue swimmer to speed to the victim in distress – a method that is still employed today.”

“So grateful were members of the Venice Lifesaving crew that on the occasion of his 24th birthday, they surprised him with a gold watch and a card that read in part – ‘Mr. George Freeth, King of the Surf Board, Captain of the Venice Basketball team, First Lieutenant of Venice Volunteer Life Saving Corps, and leader in Aquatic Sports and General Good Fellowship, is reliable, sober, industrious.’”

“’We, his comrades and citizens of Venice, extend our best wishes and a watch, that he may continue to keep abreast of the time to the century mark at least.’” (Verge)

On December 16, 1908, Freeth’s water safety skills were put to a test. That day, a tremendous winter squall suddenly descended upon Santa Monica Bay. Gale force winds and high surf trapped several Japanese fishing boats off the Venice Pier.

For the next 2 ½-hours, Freeth braved gale force winds, pounding surf, and a frigid ocean temperature to save single-handedly the lives of seven men. The Venice Lifesaving Corpsmen launched their boat to assist Freeth. More were saved.

As a result of these collected statements and the first-hand news accounts of the rescue, a special act of Congress dated June 25, 1910, awarded Freeth the nation’s highest civilian honor: the Congressional Gold Medal.

In 1915, lured away by the prospects of a better income and the chance to promote Hawaii and the sport of surfing, he joined the San Diego Yacht Club as a lifeguard/swim coach. Unfortunately, the club suffered from financial problems and Freeth was let go; a sympathetic club member then found Freeth a job at a sporting goods store in downtown San Diego.

On a warm spring day in May 1918, 13 swimmers drowned together in a massive rip current. Ocean Beach officials who hadn’t thought it necessary to have lifeguards saw their beach resort community empty as tourists stayed away.

Twelve days later the legendary lifeguard and surfer was in charge of the beach. There, Freeth performed on his surfboard, trained youngsters to work as lifeguards, and to the delight of everyone, not a single swimmer drowned.

Sadly, the flu pandemic of 1918-19 was sweeping through San Diego. Worldwide, 20 million people died from the flu in four months, as many as were killed in all of World War I. Rather than the young and the old, the victims were mostly healthy and middle aged. Among the stricken was Freeth. (Verge)

Freeth is credited as being the “First great waterman of the modern era” – Swimmer, diver, boatman, fisherman, outrigger canoeist, sailor, first professional lifeguard in California, Congressional Gold Medal for bravery, founded lifesaving service in California and introduced waterpolo to California. (UCSB)

George Douglas Freeth, Jr was born on Oʻahu on November 9, 1883; he died of the flu in San Diego on April 7, 1919 at the age of 35.

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George_Freeth-(WC)-1910

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George_Freeth-californiasurfmuseum

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Historic Huntington – surfing – George Freeth – LA Herald Dec 17 1908

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HuntingtonBeachArialShot1971

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Redondo-inside_plunge

George Freeth Plaque

Bronze Bust of George Freeth

November 15, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Timeline Tuesday … 1800s

Today’s ‘Timeline Tuesday’ takes us through the 1800s – horses arrive, sandalwood economy and Henry ‘Ōpūkaha’ia sails to New England. We look at what was happening in Hawai‘i during this time period and what else was happening around the rest of the world.

A Comparative Timeline illustrates the events with images and short phrases. This helps us to get a better context on what was happening in Hawai‘i versus the rest of the world. I prepared these a few years ago for a planning project. (Ultimately, they never got used for the project, but I thought they might be on interest to others.)

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August 15, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waikīkī Inn

The coastal village of Waikīkī was most likely centered around the mouth of ‘Āpuakēhau Stream (between the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Hotels.) Beginning in the 15th-century, a vast system of irrigated taro fields was constructed, extending from Waikīkī to the lower valleys of Mānoa and Pālolo.

This field system, that took advantage of streams descending from the valleys of Makiki, Mānoa and Pālolo, was an impressive feat of engineering, the design of which is traditionally attributed to the chief Kalamakua (grandson of the Island’s ruling chief Māʻilikūkahi.)

The lo‘i kalo, in combination with coconut groves and numerous fishponds along the Waikīkī shoreline, enabled the growth of a sizeable population. (Cultural Surveys)

Fast forward about a century after ‘contact’ (Captain Cook’s arrival) and “The most popular resort of the people of Oʻahu is the famous Waikīkī … Waikīkī is the seaside and pleasure-resort of the island. …”

“There are a number of private residences, picturesque-looking bungalows and cottages, but all airy, comfortable, and close to the murmuring sea. A beautiful grove of towering coconut-trees adds to the tropical charm of the place.” (Musick, 1898)

“The sea bathing is simply perfection. The water is never chilly; and yet it is most healthful and invigorating. The bottom is of nice smooth sand, always warm and pleasant to the feet.”

“There is no fear of undertow or of any finny monsters. Not only is it pleasant to bathe here during the day, but moonlight bathing is indulged in. … It is a novelty, worth seeing, if not worth trying. (Whitney, 1895)

Just as “sea bathing” were gaining popularity on the American and European continents, private bathhouses, like the Long Branch Baths, Ilaniwai Baths and Wright’s Villa, began to appear in Waikīkī. (White)

“Bath-houses that equal those in Long Branch (New Jersey) are found here, and sea-bathing in January is as pleasant as in July. There is no clearer water, no finer beach, no smoother bottom in any of the many famous watering-places than are found at Waikīkī.” (Musick, 1898)

This is where Thomas and Elizabeth (Applegarth) Wright made their home. They came to Hawaiʻi from England in the early-1880s. Thomas was a carriage maker who came to Hawaiʻi with two brothers who operated a carriage business. (Krauss)

Their home was built in about 1890, on the water, across from Uluniu Street on Kalākaua.

Then tragedy struck the Wright family. First, their 10-year old son, Gladstone, was struck and killed by a falling rock while on a Sunday school outing in Manoa. The Sunday school teacher carried him unconscious down the trail to his carriage and drove to Queen’s Hospital; there, treated by Dr. Hildebrand, unfortunately, he died. (Krauss)

A memorial “Gladstone Wright Killed May 14 1891” chiseled into a hard to find boulder on Waiakeakua Stream (between its upper and lower falls on the east side of Mānoa Valley) is a vigilant reminder of the hazards of hiking in Hawaiʻi’s wilderness – and it continues the memory of its focus.

Gladstone’s sister Cicely died (at the age of 7) of an undisclosed disease the year after he was killed. It was shortly after when the Wrights opened their home as a bath house and accommodations (food and lodging.) It was initially known as Wright’s Villa.

It received favorable success, “Over one hundred bathers visited Wright’s Villa and Ilaniwai yesterday.” (Evening Bulletin, June 24, 1895) “Over fifty bathers visited Wright’s Villa last Sunday, Mr Wright will shortly erect a number of new dressing rooms and a two-roomed cottage on his premises.” (Evening Bulletin, July 8, 1895)

Thomas and Elizabeth Wright left in 1899 and returned to Staindrop, England, never to return to the Islands (although they were constantly reminded of the Islands; they named their England home ‘Honolulu House.’)

Back in the Island, “ES Buhlon has bought the bathing resort at Waikīkī, known as Ilaniwai. This will be joined with Wright’s Villa and the two places will be under the management of JB Hayward, the present manager of Wright’s Villa. Now that this consolidation has taken place, people who desire rooms at Waikīkī can find them.” (Evening Bulletin, April 5, 1899)

Then, “Wright’s Villa has been rechristened and will henceforth be known as the ‘Waikīkī Inn.’ … It is conducted under the same management. You can have the same bathing on the best beach in the Islands, the same excellent dinner and if you are so inclined enjoy a bottle of claret while dining.” (Evening Bulletin, October 14, 1899)

For a while, things were looking up, “Waikīkī Inn has undergone considerable improvement under the management of Almy, vice Mr. Hayward retired, and many more changes are contemplated. Mr Almy hopes to make Waikīkī Inn the resort of the beach.”

“He is prepared to take orders for special dinners and is even contemplating making a café of his ‘lanai’ and putting in a grill room where short orders may be served at any time. No more genial host can be found than Mr Almy and his enterprise deserves the patronage of the public.” (Austin’s Hawaiian Weekly, March 17, 1900)

Almy had a bit of a run in with the law, “Because it is illegal to sell liquor on Sundays the Waikīkī Inn will close. HN Almy, manager of this popular seaside resort, said yesterday that the charge of Judge Humphreys to the grand jury was in part directly aimed at the custom of selling liquor at the beach resorts on Sundays.”

“Light wine and beer licenses had been granted, as it was clearly shown that the beach resorts could not compete with the down town saloons if they were made to pay the regular saloon license of $1,000 per year, unless they were allowed to sell on Sunday.” (Honolulu Republican, August 8, 1900)

Later, things got even worse, “Waikīkī Inn has a bad name and if half of the charges against its conduct are true, the bad name has been fully earned. Furthermore, no showing has been made or can be made for allowing still further liberties of liquor selling at the beach resort.”

“The reports of the license inspector, the experience of the police department, the investigations of grand juries, have repeatedly and consistently shown that the greatest danger from the booze business to the young people of Honolulu lies in the night-selling privileges at a beach resort such as Waikīkī Inn.” (Editorial, Star Bulletin, August 19, 1914)

Interestingly, the property was later acquired by Honolulu Brewing & Malting Company. Sometime later the inn was renamed Waikīkī Tavern and Inn. It and surrounding properties were later demolished to make way for the Kūhiō Beach improvements in the early 1960s.

Today, the home of Thomas and Elizabeth Wright is now a small patch of grass and a sandy beach, just ‘Ewa of the hula mound and banyan tree at Kūhiō Beach on Waikīkī. (Lots of information and images here are from Riley.)

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Wright home in the 1890s before it became Wright Villa in 1899 and later renamed Waikiki Inn-HT&N

Waikiki Inn-Ad-PPWD-8-8-003-1898

Waikiki Inn-from Kalakaua

Waikiki Inn and Tavern-1949

Waikiki Inn Ad- Hawaiian Star-Oct_10,_1899

Waikiki Inn Ad-HonoluluRepublican-Aug_30,_1900

Waikiki Inn Ad-SB-Dec_2,_1914

Wright’s Villa Ad-Hawaiian Star-Aug_30,_1899

Wright’s Villa Ad-PCA-Nov_4,_1896

Thomas Wright’s business card 1899 (Jeanne Wright Riley)

August 7, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Ulukou

“At Waikīkī Kai was a place called Ulukou, and Ulukou was much desired by the ali‘i in ancient times. It was desired as a surf spot and is where the fragrant līpoa seaweed was found at Kahaloa.”

“Some large houses were built there for the ali‘i as a place for them to relax and rest from their labors and sore muscles. They appreciated this place because of the cool gentle breezes there.”

“The ali‘i engaged in many leisurely activities in those days at that place and these are some of the things they enjoyed doing: boxing, ‘ulu maika, spear sliding, cock fighting, foot racing in horse racing fashion, dancing to the beat of drums, surfing, and all types of leisurely activities that the ali‘i engaged in in days passed.” (Ke Au Okoa, July 31, 1865; Maunalua)

Ruling Chiefs of Oʻahu resided at Ulukou (‘kou tree grove’) (they also lived at nearby Helumoa – they were on each side of the ʻApuakehau Stream (ʻApuakehau used to flow about where the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach hotel is located, between the Royal Hawaiian and the Moana hotels.))

Māʻilikūkahi was the first great king of O‘ahu and legends tell of his wise, firm, judicious government (he ruled about the time of Columbus.) He was born aliʻi kapu at the birthing stones of Kūkaniloko; Kūkaniloko was one of two places in Hawai‘i specifically designated for the birth of high ranking children (the other site was Holoholokū at Wailua on Kauai.)

Soon after becoming ruling chief, Māʻilikūkahi moved to Ulukou in Waikīkī. He was probably one of the first chiefs to live there. Up until this time Oʻahu chiefs had typically lived at Waialua and ‘Ewa. From that point on, with few exceptions, Waikīkī remained the Royal Center of Oʻahu aliʻi.

Royal Centers were compounds selected by the aliʻi for their residences; aliʻi often moved between several residences throughout the year. The Royal Centers were selected for their abundance of resources and recreation opportunities, with good surfing and canoe-landing sites being favored.

Chiefly residences are known to have changed over time and an ali‘i would expand or modify a residential complex to meet his or her needs and desires.

Prior to the Ala Wai Waikīkī was once a vast marshland whose boundaries encompassed more than 2,000-acres (as compared to its present 500-acres we call Waikīkī, today).

The name Waikīkī, which means “water spurting from many sources,” was well adapted to the character of the swampy land of ancient Waikīkī, where water from the upland valleys would gush forth from underground.

Three main valleys Makiki, Mānoa, and Pālolo are mauka of Waikīkī and through them their respective streams (and springs in Mānoa (Punahou and Kānewai)) watered the marshland below.

As they entered the flat Waikīkī Plain, the names of the streams changed; the Mānoa became the Kālia and the Pālolo became the Pāhoa (they joined near Hamohamo (now an area mauka of the Kapahulu Library.))

While at the upper elevations, the streams have the ahupuaʻa names, at lower elevations, after merging/dividing, they have different names, as they enter the ocean, Pi‘inaio, ‘Āpuakēhau and Kuekaunahi.

As the area was populated, a vast system of irrigated taro fields and fish ponds were constructed. This field system took advantage of streams descending the valleys which also provided ample fresh water for the Hawaiians living in the ahupua‘a.

At the time of Captain Cook’s arrival (1778-1779), the Hawaiian Islands were divided into four kingdoms: (1) the island of Hawaiʻi under the rule of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, who also had the Hāna district of east Maui; (2) Maui (except the Hāna district,) Molokaʻi, Lānaʻi and Kahoʻolawe were ruled by Kahekili; (3) Oʻahu was under the rule of Kahahana; and (4) Kauaʻi and Niʻihau, was ruled by Kamakahelei.

“Kahahana chose as his place of residence the shade of the kou and cocoanut trees of Ulukou, Waikiki, where also gathered together the chiefs of the island to discuss and consider questions of state.” (Thrum)

“At that time, Kahekili was plotting for the downfall of Kahahana and the seizure of Oʻahu and Molokaʻi, and the queen of Kauaʻi was disposed to assist him in these enterprises.” (Kalākaua)

After Kahekili conquered Oʻahu, he later returned to live at Ulukou; shortly after, he fell ill and died at there in the spring of 1794.

Na Pōhaku Ola Kapaemahu A Kapuni – The Healing (Wizard) Stones of Kapaemahu – are evidence of other prior residents of Ulukou. Long ago, Kapaemahu, Kahaloa, Kapuni and Kinohi came from Tahiti to Hawaiʻi – they resided at Ulukou.

Kapaemahu was the leader of the four and honored for his ability to cast aside carnality, and care for both men and women. Kapuni was said to envelop his patients with his mana. While Kinohi was the clairvoyant diagnostician, Kahaloa (whose name means “long breath”—was said to be able to breathe life into her patients.)

The art of healing they practiced is known in the Islands as laʻau lapa‘au. In this practice, plants and animals from the land and sea, which are known to have healing properties, are combined with great wisdom to treat the ailing.

They gained fame and popularity because they were able to cure the sick by laying their hands upon them. Before they returned to Tahiti, they asked the people to erect four large pōhaku as a permanent reminder of their visit and the cures they had accomplished.

Legend says that these stones were brought into Waikīkī from Waiʻalae Avenue in Kaimuki, nearly two miles away. Waikīkī was a marshland devoid of any large stones. These stones are basaltic, the same type of stone found in Kaimukī.

On the night of Kāne (the night that the moon rises at dawn,) the people began to move the rocks from Kaimukī to Kūhiō Beach. During a month-long ceremony, the healers are said to have transferred their names – Kapaemahu, Kahaloa, Kapuni and Kinohi – and or spiritual power, to the stones.

A place of choice to reside, govern, relax and recreate, for the aliʻi, Ulukou was a nice place to live; today, it is a great place to visit. (The image shows an 1897 map over Google Earth in the area of Ulukou at Waikiki.)

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Waikiki-Coastal_Area-Apuakeahu_Stream-to-Bridge-Reg1841-(1897)-Google Earth-vicinity of Moana

Waikiki Yesterday and Today-Aha Moku-noting Ulukou

July 14, 2016 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Pierpoint

The December 5, 1874 issue of the Los Angeles Herald noted, “The telegraph line along the railroad is to be built under the superintendence of Mr John Cassidy, who arrived for that purpose yesterday.”

John Cassidy, an associate of Mr Alexander Graham Bell, was the builder of the first railroad telegraph line in California. He then came to the Islands at the time the telephone services were starting.

“Honolulu was among the first cities of the world to take up the telephone practically, and as far back as the year 1880 it is to be noted that it had more telephones than any other city of the same size in the world.”

“The honor of introducing the telephone in the Islands belongs to Senator Charles H. Dickey, who brought a set of instruments to Maui and used them there; this was in the early part of 1878, barely two years after the original patent had been granted to Alexander Graham Bell.”

“And in the latter part of the same year, Mr SG Wilder, Minister of the Interior, installed a set of instruments connecting the government building in Honolulu with the office of his lumber business some distance away.”

“The practicability of the telephone thus being demonstrated, King Kalākaua purchased telephones for the Palace and had them in operation for some time, these instruments being on exhibition at the Bishop Museum at the present time.”

“In the year 1879 the first telephone company was organized and incorporated under the name of ‘The Hawaiian Bell Telephone Co,’ and on December 30, 1880, began giving service in the City of Honolulu.”

“Starting with thirty instruments in operation, this number was considered at the time to be satisfactory, or enough for all time to come; but in this they were mistaken, for the number has always been steadily on the increase.” (Chamber of Commerce Annual Report, 1912)

“Mr. Cassidy has been in the telephone business here almost since it started. He was Superintendent of the old Bell Company during its existence, and when the consolidation with the Mutual Company took place he was made manager and has conducted the business satisfactorily.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, July 2, 1896)

“Mr. Cassidy remained with the Mutual company for several years, going to the Coast finally with a view to remaining there permanently; but the lure of the Pacific was greater than he could stand and he came back and entered the service of the Hawaiian Electric Company, where he now is.” (Advertiser, December 12, 1909)

Back in 1891, at Kālia, the ‘Old Waikiki’ opened as a bathhouse, one of the first places in Waikīkī to offer rooms for overnight guests. Then, “Ripley & Dickey, the architects are about completing plans for a new beach home for John Cassidy …. It will be one of the handsomest houses in that section of the city, which is noted for the number of its beautiful and comfortable residences.”

“The house will be two stories, of frame. It will be of the chalet type a German adaptation of the Swiss style. The exterior will be very pretty and the interior will be nicely finished.”

“Mr. Cassidy’s beach lot is a large one adjoining the premises of John Ena in Old Waikiki. The house at present occupied will be moved back and leased. … There will soon be a call for tenders for construction of the home. (Hawaiian Gazette, February 18, 1898) The Old Waikiki later served as a boarding house.

Cassidy died on March 9, 1915, at the age of 71. Advertisements shortly thereafter note his widow, Eliza E Cassidy, offering “The Pierpoint, formerly Cassidy, only home hotel, Waikiki Beach; consists of individual cottages and single rooms; cuisine excellent; 1000-ft promenade pier at the end of which is splendid bathing pool and beautiful view.” (Star Bulletin, May 15, 1916)

It appears the name of this new use as a hotel was geographical; the pier extended 1,000-feet out into the ocean from a point … a promotional item from Child’s Blaisdell Hotel noted it as a “Pier on a Point.” The pier had moments of excitement …

“When Arthur E. Troiel speared a conger-eel off the end of Cassidy’s pier at Pierpont Wednesday night he ran all the way home, donned his bathing suit and assisted in landing the big fellow before he could fully realize that he had not caught a whale or at least a shark.”

“Thereafter he was the pride of the fair ones and the envy of the stronger sex along the beach. By day Troiel works for J Hopp & Company.” (Star Bulletin, November 9, 1916)

Later Pierpoint became the Waikiki Annex for downtown Honolulu’s Blaisdell Hotel. In the early 1920s, nearby quaint clusters of cottages known as Cressaty’s Court and Hummel’s Court offered simple lodging. (Waikīkī Historic Trail)

The Pierpoint Hotel, Hummel’s Court and Cressaty’s Court, all located at Kālia, were acquired by the Heen Investment Company in May of 1926.

The six acres were re-landscaped, the cluster of cottages was renovated, and a new main building was added with the Tapa Room and a dance floor. The site, renamed Niumalu Hotel, meaning “sheltering palms,” opened in 1928. (Cord International)

Henry J Kaiser bought it and adjoining property and started the Kaiser Hawaiian Village (1955.) He sold to Hilton Hotels in 1961 and the property (now totaling 22-acres) continues to be known as the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

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