Hilo | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

September 24, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kilauea Masonic Lodge

Hawai‘i was first visited by Freemasons as early as the early-1790s, with the visit of George Vancouver (however, some suggest Captain Cook was a Freemason, but the records don’t substantiate that.) Over time, other Freemasons (mariners, merchants and professionals) visited the Islands.

However, it was a French mariner who introduced this British cultural export into Hawai‘i at a time when the Union Jack flew over the kingdom’s capital. On April 8, 1843, during the reign of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli,) Freemasonry was formally established in Hawai‘i by Joseph Marie Le Tellier, Captain of the French whaling barque “Ajax” when he warranted Lodge Le Progres de l’Oceanie No. 124, of the Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite of the Supreme Council of France.

This was the first Masonic Lodge to be instituted in the Islands; with it, Freemasonry became firmly established in the Sandwich Islands. In Honolulu, the original lodge members were European and American mariners, shopkeepers and farmers.

Membership in Masonic lodges has always served to facilitate business contacts, as well as social ones. By the late-1840s there were about thirty-five merchants and storekeepers in Honolulu, of whom about one third were Masons. Similar ratios existed for the other 150 skilled “mechanics” and professionals in town.

Later, in 1879, King Kalākaua (one of the most active members of the Craft in the Island Kingdom,) conducted a grand Masonic ceremony at the site of the new ‘Iolani Palace, using Masonic silver working tools specially crafted for the occasion.

Then, on the evening of Thursday, December 3, 1896, an informal meeting was held at the home of William Whitmore Goodale, at Papaikou, on the Island of Hawaiʻi. The needs were discussed and it was decided to take the necessary steps for a Masonic Lodge on the Island of Hawaiʻi.

On February 4, 1897, the Grand Master of Masons in California, Thomas Flint, Jr., issued a dispensation to open and hold a Masonic Lodge to be called, “Kilauea Lodge.” The Lodge, with a membership of 16, was granted its charter on October 15, 1897, and was constituted as Kilauea Lodge No. 330, F&AM (Free & Accepted Masons.) (Chausee)

“Andrew Brown, District Inspector, Jos. Little, Arch. Gilfillan and half a dozen other prominent Masons will leave by the next Kinau for Hilo to some work for the order at that place. Mr. Brown will deliver to Masonic Lodge at Hilo, its charter and will direct the installation of officers. The lodge there has been working under dispensation for a year, but will now be firmly attached the Grand Lodge of California.” (Hawaiian Gazette, February 11, 1898)

Kilauea Lodge became “a full fledged lodge, peaceful, prosperous, progressive, and is ably and faithfully fulfilling its mission of brotherly love, relief and truth. They have recently purchased a large lot on Waianuenue street and hope at an early date to see their way clear to follow in the footsteps of Hawaiian Lodge and build for themselves a suitable and comfortable home.” (Freemasons)

“The Masonic Hall Association at its meeting Saturday last decided definitely to built a fine brick and stone building upon their lot recently purchased of the Territory at the corner of Waianuenue and Bridge streets.”

“The building will be two stories in height with basement … The upper story will be used for lodge purposes, while the lower will be constructed for the use of business houses, etc”. (Evening Bulletin, January 18, 1906)

At about this time (1908,) Teddy Roosevelt who was a Freemason was President of the United States; the US Congress authorized the construction of Naval Station at Pearl Harbor; and the Navy’s sixteen new battleships made up the “Great White Fleet” and sailed.

In the local community, the simultaneous event of the completion of the rail link to Honokaʻa, connecting the sugar plantations, their products, and their large working population to Hilo and its port, and the completion of the new breakwater allowing all-weather use of Hilo harbor, provided an expansive business environment for entrepreneurs In the community and across the Island Territory.

Then, the Hilo Masons dedicated their new building. “We have met here today for a specific purpose, namely to solemnly dedicate our masonic hall. Ten or more years ago the Hilo Masonic Hall Association was formed and later on a site purchased, which was farther up Waianuenue street than we are today.”

“Still later negotiations were entered into with the then Governor of the Territory, George B Carter, with a view to making an exchange of sites, the government requiring our uptown lot for school purposes, and giving us in exchange the site that this building now stands on”. (Hawaiian Gazette, March 1, 1910)

“It was finally decided to accept the plans of HE Starbuck, of Oakland. … The cornerstone was laid February 18, 1909. We started out to build a $40,000 building, and have ended up by having one costing double the amount, as nothing but the best of everything would satisfy the boys.”

The structure, which occupies the entire site, consists of three floors and a full basement. The street-level commercial spaces have a reinforced concrete floor, sidewalk freight elevators into the basement and an ingenious natural ventilation system which carried throughout the building.

Though altered in most areas the interiors remaining indicate a high level of decoration, with arched column bays, decorative cast concrete and plaster ceilings and high display windows with operable transoms above. (NPS)

The extensive unbroken tenancy by the Masonic Order (1909-1985) resulted in the second and third floors remaining virtually unchanged (a fire stair was added in 1986.) From the Waianuenue Avenue level lobby an elaborate granite stair with its ornate grained Oak balustrade ascends to the second floor foyer, on to the third level offices, and on again to the former Roof Garden, lauded for its panoramic view of the City of Hilo. (NPS)

The Temple room was two-stories in height with coved ceiling, wainscot, extensive paneling and moldings surrounding the large arch-topped windows, and an Organ Gallery overlooking the room through arched openings; the original suspended lighting fixtures with faceted globes were encased and formed brass frames.

Though ownership of the building has changed hands several times since its construction, the Masonic Order retained its occupancy of the second and third floor spaces until about 1985 when the Issuance of a liquor license to a ground floor tenant forced them to vacate under the rules of the Order which does not allow joint occupancy with liquor establishments.

The Hilo Masonic Temple is among the Hilo’s most substantial and best preserved historic structures. Constructed in 1908-10 in the Renaissance Revival style of reinforced concrete and steel, the building was clearly intended to be a lasting monument to the Masonic Order whose dramatic Lodge Hall and Temple facilities were located on the second and third floors.

The Masonic Temple construction came to completion about the same time as the new Hilo Hotel building was completed, the Hackfeld building nearing completion and with the Volcano Block and S Hata buildings in the planning stages.

July 29, 2025 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

John Rudolph Slattery

During the American Revolution, George Washington appointed the first engineer officers of the Army on June 16, 1775; in 1779 Congress created a separate Corps of Engineers.

At the end of the Revolutionary War, the engineers mustered out of service. In 1794, Congress organized a Corps of Artillerists and Engineers, but it was not until March 16, 1802 that it reestablished a separate Corps of Engineers (the Corps’ continuous existence dates from then.)

At the same time, Congress established a new military academy and gave the engineers responsibility for founding and operating the US Military Academy at West Point, New York. During the first half of the 19th-century, West Point was the major and for a while, the only engineering school in the country.

John Rudolph Slattery graduated fifth in his class at West Point Class in 1900. He was appointed to the Academy by Charles P Taft, brother of President William Howard Taft.

Typical for a new engineer officer, after graduation, Slattery was assigned to the Philippines to work on bridges and roads. Within a couple of years he was living and working in Honolulu.

Before Slattery’s arrival in the islands, the Army engineer presence included work from engineer officer Maj. William C Langfitt who led a force of American soldiers, including the Third Battalion of US Volunteer Engineers, which established itself at Camp McKinley in 1898. Before leaving in 1899, Langfitt drew up a defense plan for Pearl Harbor.

In 1901 the chief of engineers, with the War Department’s approval, established a board of engineer and artillery officers to study Oʻahu’s defense requirements. The board also recommended that Pearl Harbor be given first priority for the construction of seacoast fortifications, but included some defenses for Honolulu Harbor.

While the Corps of Engineers was planning the seacoast defenses of Oahu, it also received a request from local authorities in Hawaiʻi to establish harbor lines in Honolulu harbor (Harbor lines regulate where piers and other structures can be built.) Likewise, channels and other harbor space needed dredging.

While planning for fortifications, laying out harbor lines and dredging were important, when US Senate subcommittee members surveying the needs of the new territory could not enter Honolulu harbor at night because the ship’s captain could not distinguish navigation lights from the Honolulu city lights, the federal government launched a large new lighthouse construction program for the islands.

The Pacific lighthouse district engineer sent Slattery to Hawaiʻi in 1904 to supervise the construction. The US government appropriated funds for acquiring land in Hawaii to be used as sites for coastal fortifications.

By August 1904, Slattery was also tasked with preparing a project for the improvement of Honolulu Harbor. His plans to widen and deepen both the harbor and its entrance were submitted by that December and the project was both approved and funded in March 1905.

On April 15, 1905, Slattery opened the first Honolulu Engineer District office in the Alexander Young Building on Bishop Street – this marked the birthdate of the Honolulu Engineering District for the Army Corps.

Slattery’s duties were divided between land acquisition and lighthouse matters. Several lasting legacies of his work remain in the Islands.

Slattery negotiated the purchase of land in Waikiki for the establishment of Fort DeRussy. Battery Randolph within Fort DeRussy was built between 1909 and 1911 and gained international, national, state and local significance at a time when British, French, Russian, German and even the Japanese had ships in the Pacific, and were expressing interest in Hawai‘i.

The Army mission in Hawai‘i was defined as “the defense of Pearl Harbor Naval Base against damage from naval or aerial bombardment or by enemy sympathizers and attack by enemy expeditionary force or forces, supported or unsupported by an enemy fleet or fleets.”

Slattery prepared the design for Makapuʻu Lighthouse. Makapuʻu (meaning bulging eye) Point is the extreme southeastern point of the island of Oʻahu. To the east of it is the Ka‘iwi Channel, which passes between the islands of Oʻahu and Molokaʻi.

For years, there was no light on the entire northern coast of the Hawaiian Islands to guide ships or warn them as they approach those islands. Essentially, all the commerce from the west coast of North America bound to Honolulu passes Makapuʻu Lighthouse.

On October 1, 1909, the light from another bright, bulging eye was seen on the rocky point of Makapuʻu as the giant lens in the Makapuʻu lighthouse was illuminated for the first time.

Just before Slattery’s arrival, the War Department, a board of Army officers, recommended establishment of the principal infantry post at Kahauiki.

Construction started in 1905 at what was first called Kahauiki Military Reservation. It was later named Fort Shafter and was Hawaiʻi’s first permanent US military installation. (Camp McKinley remained in existence until Fort Shafter was opened.)

First, they started construction of officers’ quarters and battalion barracks around Palm Circle, as well as support facilities on and near Funston Road.

Slattery helped Fort Shafter become a major anti-aircraft installation. In addition, a number of military fortifications for Oahu’s defense were built including Pearl Harbor, Forts Ruger, Armstrong, Weaver, Barrette and Kamehameha as well as Batteries Randolph, Williston, Hatch, Dudley and Harlow.

The District also began improvements to Hilo Harbor with construction of the breakwater in September 1908. In 1910, the breakwater at Kahului Harbor was extended.

Slattery eventually retired as a Colonel in 1925 and became the Deputy Chief Engineer of the Board of Transportation, in charge of such projects as the tunnels to Queens and Staten Island and the New York Central Railroad.

Slattery was married to Elizabeth B Slattery on February 22, 1905; they had one child, Nathaniel B Slattery. John R Slattery, born in Athens, Ohio, on January 31, 1877, died on September 23, 1932 at the age of 55.

In April 1962, the Army Corps of Engineers completed the Lt John R Slattery Bridge, the two-lane bascule bridge connecting Sand Island to Oʻahu in Honolulu Harbor. (It originally was a draw bridge, originally designed to be raised and lowered to allow boat traffic to pass underneath.)

In the late-1980s, though, the state permanently sealed the metal bridge and built a new concrete bridge alongside, creating four lanes to accommodate the growing traffic on and off the island.

John R Slattery

John R Slattery Bridge-Access to Sand Island-(ArmyCorps)

PalmCircle_USAMH34_l-1913

Quarters5_USAMH70_l-Completed in 1909, Quarters 5 originally served as the Post Commander’s quarters-1916

CentPlaza_FP_03_l-Flagpole in Palm Circle-(photo_between-1908-1912)

Makapuʻu_Lighthouse

Lighthouse Keeper John Sweeney-1934

Honolulu_Waterfront-1905

Boats_in_Honolulu_Harbor-1900

Kewalo_to_Waikiki-Dredged_Channels_Parallel_to_Shore-(Army_Museum)-1938

Fort DeRussy is nearly complete – area north (right) is still generally undeveloped-Battery Dudley in lower center-CoastDefenseJourna)-1919

Battery_Randolph-Fort_DeRussy-(army-mil)

Honolulu_Harbor-USACE-Slattery-Map-1906

Honolulu_Harbor-early-lighthouse

Honolulu Harbor Light Station-(left)

Honolulu_Harbor_in_1900

Hilo-Breakwater-(WC)

Hilo_Breakwater-stones-(DMY)

Hilo_Breakwater-Map-USACE

Alexander Young Hotel-early 1900s

July 10, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pacific Bakery and Hotel

Pacific Bakey operated at 19 Kalakaua in Hilo, then … “Rumors widely current in the city to the effect that the Pacific Bakery is planning to transfer its field of operations to a larger structure on the vacant lot at the corner of Kalakaua and Keawe streets, are not denied by the management, although it does not wish to make a statement until final action is taken.”

“From other sources, however, it is learned that a prominent local Japanese merchant is preparing to build a two-story structure on this ground fronting Keawe street”.

“The plans have been under contemplation for a number of months, it is said, but they appear nearer fruition now than ever before.” (Hilo Daily Tribune. Oct 19, 1921)

“[T]he new two-story structure at the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua streets, which will be known as the ‘Pacific Building,’ will be rushed to completion”. (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“The main business site will be occupied by the Pacific Bakery and Restaurant, the entrance to be on the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua streets, this concern to utilize the entire lower floor fronting on Kalakaua street and extending back to the police station. On the Keawe side there will be four additional business rooms available”.

“The Pacific Bakery and Restaurant rooms will occupy a space … divided in three sections, to accommodate the bakery and restaurant feature, dining room, kitchen, and workroom. The kitchen will be equipped with electric washing machines and other modern equipment.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“On the second floor of the Pacific building there will be located 24 large, airy, well-lighted rooms for the accommodation of the general public, in connection with which there will be hot and cold water bathrooms for ladies and gentlemen.”

“The water for the bathrooms will be heated from a large tank in the bakery and carried to the upper floor by asbestos covered pipes. The entrance to the upper floor will be located about the middle of the building on the Keawe street side.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“N. K. Takahashi is proprietor of the hotel as manager of the restaurant and bakery, all of which give employment to 29 people, including bakers, waitresses, cooks and other hotel employes.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Nov 2, 1922)

“In the basement of the new structure, which was designed by F. Arakawa, local architect and civil engineer, provisions are made for a cold storage plant in connection with the restaurant and bakery, In which may be stored meats, eggs, butter, vegetables and other perishable food products.”

“Among the promoters and principal owners of the new bakery, restaurant and rooming house are K. Takahashi, T. R. Saiki, Y. Hata, S. Murakami and S. Kawasaki, the latter having the contract for the construction work.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

It is one of the first businesses that developed the concept of a sidewalk cafe in downtown Hilo. In 1924 the Hilo Library was a tenant on the first floor and in 1929 a bakery moved in at the corner of Keawe Street.

In order to be profitable for owner, tenants and the islanders/tourists have tried to have diverse businesses as tenants – to be a place to shop, eat, sit and meet.

Keawe Street is covered with a canopy so shopkeepers put tables and chairs outside, provide free internet and allow people an open-air dining experience. While customers are eating or doing work, some with their pets alongside, others are playing a music and singing, and making new acquaintances. The general feeling is uplifting and community centered. (HHF)

During the war, in a survey of structures, the Pacific Building was identified as one of downtown Hilo’s “approved shelters”, noting, the “spacious hall upstairs … can easily accommodate at least 200 comfortably without utilizing the rooms themselves.”

The “Recommended evacuation to this shelter is as follows: All occupants of Theo. H Davies & Co, offices and warehouses. All concerns on Keawe St extending for Paul’s Beauty Shop to and including the five residences … and from the Style Center (on the lower Keawe side) to and including Economy Motors.” (Hilo Tribune Herald, Jan 18, 1942)

The Pacific Bakery & Hotel was listed in the 1949 business directory and served as a gathering place for people travelling on the railroad tracks from Hāmākua and Kona, allowing them overnight eating and resting place, and a library for entertainment, and access to other businesses on the first floor. The commercial property has upkept its image as a community gathering place. (HHF)

Pacific Bakery was dissolved on September 10, 1954. (Hilo Tribune Herald, Sep 30, 1954) Later, the upper floor room rentals were monthly, as well as used by visiting sports teams for overnight accommodations; then, commercial office rentals took over up and down stairs. The 2-story reinforced concrete Pacific Building still stands at the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua.

May 19, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Okino Hotel

“The [Okino] hotel [on Kamehameha Avenue] was built in 1913. But before then, [Yoshimatsu Okino] had another one on Front Street [Kamehameha], but I don’t know what year that was built. And then they built this big one in 1913.” (Violet Hirata)

Hotel advertising referred to it as “The Oldest Hotel in Hilo”. (Hilo Tribune Heald, July 31, 1947) A newspaper story referred to it as “the oldest Japanese hotel in Hilo”. (Hilo Tribune Herald, July 24, 1959)

Yoshimatsu Okino was born on December 4, 1860, in Hiroshima-ken, Japan. He had at least 2 sons and 1 daughter with Waka Hamai. (Family Search)) Yoshimatsu Okino died in 1917; after that, his son, Yoshio (‘Fats’) Okino took over the operation.

“We had all different customers. We used to have – month to month, we had salesmen that came from Honolulu, and different tenants. We had some boarders that worked in Hilo. So they boarded there and they went to work. So we had quite a few of them boarding, regular boarders.”

[Masako Kayano Okino], born in Pahala, married Yoshio Okino, son of the Okino hotel founder. Masako “was busy with the cooking and all that with the ladies.”

“And [we] had my aunt living with us when we were young to help my mom. So, besides the ladies that work with her, we had one aunt, older aunt that stayed, and then the younger one came in and stay, take over after that. We were lucky.”

“And they had [base]ball teams coming. Or, Fourth of July, they have [sumo] wrestlers coming in. The group comes and goes. We were very busy.”

“Grandfather built it. Grandfather died when [Yoshio] was nineteen, so [Yoshio] had to take over that. Grandma [Waka Okino] died later, but he was nineteen only when Grandfather died.” (Violet Hirata, daughter of Yoshio Okino)

Yoshio Okino and Masako Kayano Okino owned and operated Okino Hotel on 482 Kamehameha Avenue. There were family quarters in one section of the hotel. The children helped their parents in the hotel dining room, serving food to customers and clearing tables.

Okino Hotel was destroyed in the 1946 tsunami. Hirata and the family managed to escape the waves by fleeing in back of the building – away from the ocean – toward the Hilo Gas Company gas tanks. Her brother, George, became trapped in the debris and was later rescued. A guest of the hotel died that day.

Yoshio later established another hotel on Kino‘ole Street, which they operated until 1959. Hirata eventually worked as a hairdresser, and later, for Western Auto. She retired in 1989. She and her husband, Takeshi Hiiata, whom she married in 1949, raised three children and currently have five grandchildren. (NOAA Fisheries)

“The Okino Hotel, which was completely demolished in the tidal wave of April 1, 1946, will reopen its modern, two story building Friday in a new location at 481 Kinoole street.” (Hilo Tribune Herald, July 31, 1947)

(“Ironically, the single remaining ‘monument’ from the 1946 tsunami, the furo bathroom of the old Okino hotel, stood firm through the … wave assault”. (Hilo Tribune Herald, July 18, 1960))

“Construction of the proposed Okino Hotel has been postponed indefinitely, Yoshio Okino reported today. Instead, Okino has taken a lease on the two story building at 481 Kinoole Street … he said he cannot afford to wait any longer to get back into business”. (Hilo Tribune Herald, June 16, 1947)

“The new structure is situated across from the Hilo fire department and will be under management of Yoshio Okino …. The hotel has been located in Hilo for over 50 years and prior to the tidal wave was on Kamehameha avenue.”

“Well-ventilated, the hotel will have 24 rooms for transient guests, and will have hot and cold showers. A restaurant will be located on the ground floor.”

“In his youth, [Yoshio] Okino was one of the most noted baseball players in the territory, known as the ‘Babe Ruth of the Pacific.’ [He was referred to as the ‘home run king’ with a batting average of .556]”. (HTH)

“He was centerfielder of the Japanese Athletic club nine that toured Japan in the early ‘20s. Later he became a catcher. His sons are prospective Hilo senior leaguers.” (Hilo Tribune Herald, July 31, 1947)

Yoshio “started in Honolulu with the Japanese High school team there and played for the JAC combine in Hilo during his summer vacations. That was his start.”

“In 1916, he played football and baseball for the Mid-Pacific Institute, also known as Mills school. The following year he came to Hilo and started playing for the JAC in dead earnest.” (Hilo Tribune Herald, April 6, 1928)

Back to the hotel … a July 24, 1959 notice in the paper noted, “Okino Hotel will be closed from July 31, 1959. [Yoshio Okino stated,] I wish, at this time, to extend sincere thanks and appreciation to my many patrons and friends for their kind patronage in the past years. Retiring after 40 years in the Hotel Business.” (Hilo Tribune Herald) He then moved to Honolulu.

Shortly thereafter, a “Notice” in the paper, “Announcing the Change of Name and Ownership of Okino Hotel, Effective August 1^st, 1959” to Lincoln Hotel. “Richard M Inouye, Owner of the Lincoln Grill)”.

Later, “The New Rainbow Hotel … Formerly Known as Okino Hotel” was “Completely Remodeled” “all with Private Bathrooms” and “Open for Business”. (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Dec 29, 1965). The former Okino Hotel still stands across from the Fire Station on Kino‘ole street.

January 10, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ninika

The Cowardin Classification System is a descriptive method developed by the US Fish & Wildlife Service that categorizes and defines wetlands according to their landscape position and water source.

Within these broad classes fall types of wetlands known by common names, such as marshes, bogs, and swamps. (DLNR, FWS)

Hawaiian bogs occur primarily in montane zones (a mosaic of rainforest and shrublands) as isolated small patches on flat or gently sloping topography in high rainfall areas in cloud forests and other wet forests on all of the high islands between 3,500-5,500 feet elevation.

These bogs also occur in the subalpine zone 7,446 feet elevation on Maui, and as a low-elevation bog at 2,120 feet on Kauai. Soils remain saturated on a shallow to deep layer of peat (0.01-5 m), underlain by an impervious basal clay layer that impedes drainage.

A few sloping bogs occur on steeper terrain were precipitation is extremely high, such as in North Bog in the Wai‘ale‘ale summit region of Kauai, where soils remain saturated despite adequate drainage.

Two bogs are believed to have formed in former small lakes, one along the Wailuku River, Hawai`i (Treeless bog), the other the subalpine bog on East Maui (Flat Top bog). The low-elevation bog on Kauai occurs on shallow, poorly drained acidic peat. (NatureServe Explorer)

Bogs are one of the most distinctive kinds of wetlands. They are characterized by spongy peat deposits, acidic waters and a floor covered by a thick carpet of moss. They are typically treeless areas, surrounded by cloud forest.

Bogs receive all or most of their water from precipitation rather than from runoff, groundwater or streams. As a result, bogs are low in the nutrients needed for plant growth, a condition that is enhanced by peat mosses.

Bogs serve an important ecological function in preventing downstream flooding by absorbing precipitation. (EPA)

Hawaiian bogs are characterized by an extremely dwarfed growth of the species represented in the surrounding forest, and by a number of species practically endemic to the bogs.

Most of the plants are deeply embedded in cushions and hummocks (ground rising above a marsh) of mosses, hepatics, and turf-forming grasses and sedges. The area is saturated with water and there are often channels and pools. (Fosberg & Hosaka)

The more familiar bogs of the islands are those in Alakai swamp, Kauai; Kawela Swamp, Molokai; Puu Kukui, west Maui and northeastern Haleakalā, Maui; Kaala Bog, Kohala Mountains, Hawaii; and in the Koolau Mountains on Oahu. (Fosberg & Hosaka)

These marshes and bogs are found in depressions where rain or groundwater collects. Hawai‘i’s rare montane bogs take millions of years to form. (DLNR)

Ninika (a boggy region in the Laupāhoehoe-Maulua forest) (Maly) is at the seaward end of the Hakala Forest refuge in Honohina. This name was recorded by the surveyor D.H. Hitchcock (1874) based on information from his two informants.

Ku and Kalaualoha (both Boundary Commission witnesses for Piha and Honohina); he says “I found that most of the [coastal] gulches ended at Ninika, and [upland] gulches from mauka ended at swamp.”

Kalaualoha testified that from its upper point of origin “Nauhi gulch only runs a short distance into woods and there spreads out all around;” for the Honohina testimony, he states that the coastal “Nanue gulch ends at Ninika.” Kapou (witness for Hakalau Nui) also mentions Ninika: “I have heard that Kaiwiki reaches to the Ninika.” (Tuggle)

The Waikaumalo/Piha boundary runs “up gulch to Ninika to where Puuohua ends and Mauluanui bounds it to the mountain. Bird catchers from these two lands used to catch in common … Ninika is at mauka end of Puuohua, Kumuohia is on Piha.” (Hawaiian Place Names)

When we think of Hakalau Forest Refuge, we typically think and see native ohia and koa forest and lots of forest birds. However, below where people go, but still within the Refuge, is a somewhat different story. As described by Myra Tomonari-Tuggle in a report she did for the Refuge:

“The wet ‘Ôhi‘a zone covers essentially the entire seaward half of the refuge and is characterized by a forest dominated by ‘Ôhi‘a trees. … The groundcover is primarily ferns.”

“This low elevation area is cut by numerous streams and gullies and the ground surface is often bog-like, described by Stine as:”

“At the lowest elevation of the [Refuge] is the bog – ohia dieback community. This unit is actually a mosaic of open bog, matted fern and native shrub communities, and open to scattered wet ohia forest with many standing dead or partially defoliated trees.”

“The forest dieback in this area is believed to be a result of the poor rooting conditions found in this extremely wet habitat … The wet open boggy areas are dominated by introduced grass and sedge species with scattered native shrubs.” (Stine)

“Soil samples from the bog in the southern half of the refuge suggest that the bog may range from 8 to more than 12 feet deep; these samples were collected from six sites ranging in elevation from 4,405 to 5,040 feet asl.”

“A 19th century map of Honohina, one of the traditional Hawaiian land units within the refuge, gives the name ‘Ninika Swamp’ to this lower elevation bog.”

“This zone corresponds to the lower range of McEldowney’s montane rainforest zone, which she describes as an area largely used as a source of specialized forest resources such as a forest birds for feathers and dry or mesic hardwood species for crafts or construction.”

“Historically, the bog at the seaward edge of the refuge was called Ninika Swamp; it is probable that this swamp extends at this elevation across all of the ahupua‘a in the refuge.”

“A multitude of stream channels enter from the upper slopes, dissipate in the bog, then exit as new channels to the lower coastal slopes.” (Tomonari-Tuggle)