Hawaii Island | Page 25 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

July 23, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Reviving Outrigger Canoe Racing

Outrigger Canoe Club fielded its first outrigger canoe racing crew in 1908 in a race in Honolulu Harbor. There were a few canoe races in the 1910s and 1920s, most often held in Waikiki, in conjunction with surfing contests. (OCC)

The improvement to a road project in West Hawai‘i was catalyst to revival of outrigger canoe racing in Hawai‘i.

The Territorial government sought to improve the 39-mile Waimea to Kona roadway in the 1930s.

EE Black, a contractor, built the road from Kailua-Kona to what is now the start of the Saddle Road. He used the first bulldozer in the history of the islands to do so. (Thurston)

“The formal opening of the new belt road on the island of Hawaii, July 22, 1933, was an important occasion, attended by the Governor and his party from Honolulu and many excursionists.” (The Friend, July 1933)

Having just finished the road, Black approached Outrigger Canoe Club President Lorrin Thurston and asked what he could do to show his appreciation to his employees and the people of Kona for their patience during the road work. (Thurston)

Black “made a good many dollars on that road and he wanted to do something in return for the people of Kona. So, knowing that I knew something about the district, he came to me …”

“… I suggested perhaps we should have the rebirth of the canoe races and he put up $3,000, I think, in the way of expenses and we carried the ball from there, which was very interesting.” (Thurston)

Thurston “talked with Dad Center and suggested that perhaps we might start canoe racing again. And he encouraged me.” (Thurston)

“They organized canoe crews from Kailua, Honaunau and Miloli‘i to compete against crews from O‘ahu: Hui Nalu, Outrigger and Queen’s Surf.”

Thurston “went to Kona and interested Julian Yates, Louis Macfarlane and Eugene Kaupiko in holding a canoe race.”

One of the problems involved in holding the race in Kona was how to get the many paddlers from O‘ahu to Kona.

“I didn’t have the money to pay for their steamship fares and there were no planes,” Thurston explained. “We finally worked out a proposition with the US Coast Guard who were able to bring the paddlers over in daylight hours – not spending any night on board …” (OCC)

“To make a long story short, (Thurston) raised enough money to buy medals for all the races. Princess Kawananakoa was one of the principal donors.”

“… and we were able to get facilities to house the boys at the home of the Reverend Shannon Walker and a pavilion of the YMCA at Keauhou. The local boys stayed in their own homes.” (OCC)

“The Inter Island Steamship Company ran a special excursion of the Waialeale for spectators to view the races. There were four or five official boats of the U.S. Navy, two from Australia, and probably 15 yachts. After the races, everyone gathered at the Kona Inn for dancing and a luau.” (OCC)

“There were five races and OCC won three. The crews raced in Napo‘opo‘o. This was the first race that featured canoe racing only.” Races were also held in 1934 and 1935. (OCC)

It was also the start of modern canoe racing for Outrigger women. Mariechen Wehselau Jackson, Hawaii’s first female Olympic Gold Medalist (1924 in swimming), sailed on the Waialeale as an “excursionist” to see the races along with Ruth Scudder Gillmar, Oma Haley, and Ann Barkey Cook. On other boats were Ginger Joyce and Dot Ruttmann Lambert. (OCC)

“Prior to going up,” Jackson relates, “Dad Center had said to me, ‘Now, Squeaky, why don’t you get a crew together because then you can race against the women up in Kona.’”

“We started out to the starting line and I steered the canoe just as straight as could be, very nicely. We flirted with the Coast Guard who were the officials, at the starting line.”

“We waited and waited and finally the other crew came along. And they were elderly women, all white long hair, and they were wearing muumuu and the top of the canoe was just about three or four inches from the water. They were large women.” (Jackson; OCC)

“We went out fast, and when I looked again, I had to shake my head. I couldn’t believe it. We were going around in a circle. Then we headed right for the judges’ boat and we had to yell to the judges to get out of our way.”

“I couldn’t handle that canoe. We mowed down a couple of flags. We went all over the place. And the other crew won, but by just a very, very little. If we had gone straight we would have won. The Hawaiian women won the gold medals from Princess Kawananakoa fair and square.” (Jackson; OCC)

In 1936 interisland paddling moved to Honolulu Harbor with the Honaunau crews sweeping the events. The interisland races ceased at the onset of World War II. However, Outrigger, Hui Nalu and Waikiki Surf Club and several other clubs raced occasionally in Waikiki. (OCC)

“EE Black was really the one that made the thing possible because he had finished a contract to rebuild the road from Huehue Ranch to Pu‘uwa‘awa‘a and on to what is now the start of the Saddle Road.” (Thurston)

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July 22, 2017 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Waimea-Kona Belt Road

It probably started as a foot path, then progressively improved.

The 39-mile roadway was first constructed between 1916 and 1922, and served as the main Kona-Waimea connector for 11-years until it was superseded by construction of the Māmalahoa Highway (now Highway 190) in 1933. (ASM)

Using prison labor, they built the road setting rocks, rolling with a steam roller, and pouring tar heated in a pot. A camp for the prisoners who built the road was located on the down slope side of the Saddle Road intersection, where a grove of eucalyptus trees stands today.

From Pu‘uanahulu south to Pu‘u Wa‘awa‘a, the road was built under the direction of Eben Low, by prisoners living at a camp located downslope of the road, at Ke‘enaki, at the 18-mile marker.

Then, the Waimea-Kona road was rebuilt and straightened, in the area down slope from the Ke‘amuku Sheep Station, by contractor Medeiros, leaving the old road to the east. (HDOT)

“The formal opening of the new belt road on the island of Hawaii, July 22, 1933, was an important occasion, attended by the Governor and his party from Honolulu and many excursionists.”

“The proposal has been made that the new road be named ‘Mamalahoe,’ commemorating the famous edict by King Kamehameha I, “the Law of the Splintered Paddle” making Hawaii’s highways safe for the traveler.”

“The earlier Hawaiians traveled along the rough and rocky trails from Kailua to Kawaihae assured of the protection of ‘Mamalahoe Kanawai.’ The old and the young alike were protected by this order of the king, Kamehameha.”

“Later on, the rough road was put through the lava fields and sufficed for a time until the demands of the new era have now been met by the highway dedicated only yesterday.”

“As we journey along this new road, let us think of the just and kind law enunciated by the ‘ali‘i nui.’ Kamehameha, Ka Nui Aupuni.”

“The opening of the Mamalahoe Road yesterday afternoon, named in honor of the beneficent law given by the great King Kamehameha, recalls to us the words of the ancient prophet Isaiah, as uttered in the fortieth chapter of that book, verse 3 – ‘Prepare ye the way of the Lord, make straight in the desert a highway for our God.’”

“In a literal sense, what has just been completed in North Kona was to make straight in that desert land, through lava flows and over rough places, a highway for all people who wish to make the journey around the Island of Hawaii or who desire to travel from Waimea to this fair land of Kona.”

“Across that desert-land many travelers have made their weary way, first on horses or in wagons from the more settled portions of North Kona, across the lava flow of 1801 and beyond Puuanahulu to the pastures near Waimea …”

“… and then in later years have journeyed in automobiles, an experience hard on the nerves of the driver and always hard on the tires of the car, making the trip an unwelcome one.”

“All these unpleasant features of travel on this island are now to be relegated to memory’s halls, for today we are now able to motor through the interesting upland country on a well-built highway made straight across the desert.”

“Thanks to the government in its various branches for the thoughtfulness and wisdom and care with which the project was completed, we would render today. The construction of this splendid road brings us in Kona nearer to the rest of the island and makes us feel more neighborly than ever before to others who live on this ‘Hawaii nui o Keawe.’”

“As never before, the charms and delightful spot! of this favorite land will be opened up to the world. For Kona has many “pana”—-many places famed in tradition and history, renowned in song and story.” (The Friend, July 1933)

EE Black, a contractor, built the road from Kailua-Kona to what is now the start of the Saddle Road. He used the first bulldozer in the history of the islands to do so. (Thurston)

This is what is now generally referred to as the ‘upper’ road between Waimea and Kona. The ‘lower’ road, Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway, was built from Kailua to the ‘new’ Kona Airport in 1970 (when the new airport opened.) That road was completed to Kawaihae in 1975.

The improvement of the Waimea-Kona Road also played a role in the revival of outrigger canoe racing; but that is another story.

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Portion of Old Waimea-Kona Road

July 9, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

St Martin de Tours Chapel

Some would suggest that Catholicism started in Hawaiʻi with the arrival of Don Francisco de Paula Marin (Manini) to the Hawaiian Islands in 1793 or 1794 (at about the age of 20.)

In 1819, Kalanimōku was the first Hawaiian Chief to be formally baptized a Catholic, aboard the French ship Uranie. Shortly thereafter, Boki, Kalanimōku’s brother (and Governor of Oʻahu) was baptized.

“The captain and the clergyman asked Young what Kalanimōku’s rank was, and upon being told that he was the chief counselor (kuhina nui) and a wise, kind, and careful man, they baptized him into the Catholic Church.” (Kamakau)

It wasn’t until July 7, 1827, however, when the pioneer French Catholic mission arrived in Honolulu. It consisted of three priests of the Order of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary; Father Alexis Bachelot, Abraham Armand and Patrick Short. They were supported by a half dozen other Frenchmen.

Their first mass was celebrated a week later on Bastille Day, July 14, and a baptism was given on November 30, to a child of Marin.

On April 17, 1837, two other Catholic priests arrived. However, the Hawaiian government forced them back onto a ship on April 30. American, British and French officials in Hawaii intervened and persuaded the king to allow the priests to return to shore.

Catholic Christian worship in Hilo was as early as 1839. The first chapel located on bay front was made from pili grass and was called Saint Martin de Tours. Father Charles Pouzot, SCC became the first pastor of the parish in 1845.

By 1848 the small grass chapel was replaced by a new wooden structure. The Tabernacle to preserve the Eucharist was placed in the sanctuary in 1849.

Gradually the worship space was adorned with statues and stations of the cross. A bell donated in 1850, was a gift from sailors serving on the American man-of-war Independence.

In 1852 the chapel was enlarged due to the generosity of sailors from another American warship whose spiritual needs had also been served in Hilo.

In 1862 the parish of St. Martin de Tours had once again outgrown its place of worship. A new larger church was built in the area of Kalākaua Park on Keawe and Waiānuenue Avenue.

On July 9, 1862 Bishop Louis Maigret, Bishop of Honolulu dedicated the new church to Saint Joseph. That same day 30 more people were baptized and about 300 more were confirmed to become full members of the Saint Joseph Catholic Community.

In the 1880s an increase in the number of Portuguese immigrants from the Madeira Islands more than doubled the Catholic Christian population in Hilo.

Father Puozot already fluent in English, French and Hawaiian, learned Portuguese and began to preach his sermons in Portuguese as well as in English and Hawaiian.

Fr. James C. Bessell, SSCC was assigned as pastor at Saint Joseph in 1909. Father’s zealous effort to reach many families resulted in increasing devotional opportunities and an increase in the numbers of parishioners.

By 1911, Hawaiʻi had 85 priests, 30 churches and 55 chapels. The Catholic population was 35,000; there were 4 academies, a college and 9 parochial schools established by the mission, and the total number of pupils was 2,200.

A new, larger church was needed in Hilo. Father Beissell purchased the property on the corner of Kapiʻolani and Haili Streets from the First Hawaiian Company in 1915.

The large community of active faithful including, among others, Hawaiian and Portuguese families worked together to build their new church.

The cornerstone was laid in 1917 and the church was dedicated at its present location in February 1919. (St Joseph)

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St_Joseph’s-Catholic_Church-Bertram

St_Joseph’s_Catholic-Church-Bertram

Waianuenue-St Joseph’s in background (left of center)-Bertram

Hilo-St Joseph’s at far right-Bertram

St_Joseph’s_Catholic_Church-Bertram

St_Joseph’s_Catholic_Church,_Hilo,_Hawaii_by_Jules_Tavernier,_1887

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Saint_Joseph_Catholic_Church_in_Hilo-WC

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June 28, 2017 by Peter T Young 4 Comments

Kiholo Fishpond

Kīholo (lit. the Fishhook) is a place name that may have been selected as a word descriptive of the coastline along that part of the island where the east-west coast meets the north-south coast and forms a bend similar to the angle between the point and the shank of a large fishhook.

There is no confirmation for this theory, except for our knowledge that Hawaiian place names have a strong tendency to be descriptive. (Kelly)

The Hawaiian walled fishpond stands as a technological achievement unmatched elsewhere in island Oceania. Hawaiians built rock-walled enclosures in near shore waters, to raise fish for their communities and families. It is believed these were first built around the fifteenth century.

Samuel M. Kamakau points out that “one can see that they were built as government projects by chiefs, for it was a very big task to build one, (and) commoners could not have done it (singly, or without co-ordination.)”

Chiefs had the power to command a labor force large enough to transport the tons of rock required and to construct such great walls.

It is not known when Hawaiian fishponds began to be constructed, but some fishpond walls have been carbon-dated to the 1400s; in Kona, possibly during the time of ‘Umi.

Kiholo, besides being a place name, was also the name of Kamehameha’s fishpond. Kiholo, besides being the name of Kamehameha’s large fishpond, was also “[a] large hook, formerly made of wood, used to catch the shark and other large fish”. (Kelly)

Kamehameha is said to have ordered the rebuilding of Kiholo pond while he was at Kawaihae, preparing his fleet to attack O‘ahu. Kiholo and other ponds would have supplied food for Kamehameha’s warriors when they sailed off in the great canoe fleet to conquer the chiefs on the Islands of Maui, Molokai and O‘ahu in 1794 and 1795. (Kelly)

Another source identifies 1810 as the year the pond was rebuilt with John Young as the overseer. One note mentions that John Young, Jr. (Keoni Ana) was born at Kiholo while his father was seeing to the rebuilding of Kiholo Pond. In this case, reconstruction
was taking place in preparation for Kamehameha’s return to Hawai‘i Island from O‘ahu. (Ka Hae Hawai‘i, November 1859; Kelly)

The fishpond that once served Kiholo was significant in size. “This village (Kiholo) exhibits another monument of the genius of Tamehameha.”

“A small bay, perhaps half a mile across, runs inland for a considerable distance. From one side to the other of this bay, Tamehameha built a strong stone wall, six feet high in some places, and twenty feet wide, by which he had an excellent fish-pond that is not less than two miles in circumference.”

“There were several arches in the wall, which were guarded by strong stakes driven into the ground so far apart as to admit the water of the sea; yet sufficiently close to prevent the fish from escaping. It was well stocked with fish, and water-fowl were seen swimming on its surface.” (Ellis)

“Aug. 8, 1843. Took the road from Kapalaoa to Kailua on foot. Passed the great fish pond at Kiholo, one of the artificial wonders of Hawaii; an immense work! A prodigious wall run through a portion of the ocean, a channel for the water etc. Half of Hawaii worked on it in the days of Kamehameha.” (Lyons; Maly)

“The fishpond of Kiholo in North Kona, Hawaii, was constantly being threatened by lava flows while Kamehameha was ruler of the kingdom of Hawaii. A flow came down close w the pond of Kiholo; Kamehameha brought a pig and cast it in; the “fires” stopped.”

“The flow had gone down as far as Ka‘upulehu and Mahai‘ula and had almost plunged into the sea. Kamehameha’s bringing of a pig and offering it made the flow stop. There were eyes in the lava to see Kamehameha, and ears to hear his appeals and his words of prayer, and the great blazing lava flow died down.” (Kamakau)

But lava later took the Kiholo fishpond. The 1850s saw several outbreaks of lava from Mauna Loa: in August 1851; in February 1852, when it came within a few hundred yards of Hilo; in August 1855, when it flowed for 16 months; and in January 1859, when it started up again.

Although it began at an elevation of 10,500 feet, the 1859 flow took only eight days to reach the sea, traveling “more than thirty-three miles in a direct line from its source”. The lava continued to flow for about six months at an estimated speed of four to ten miles per hour, destroying the village of Wainānāli‘i and with it, Kiholo Fishpond.

“The flow began to go seaward in the month of February of this year, from the northwest side of Mauna Loa … it turned south to Wailoa, and continued on to the deep sea, smooth lava (pahoehoe) extending into it to about forty chains or more in length. This new point [of land] has been named Lae-Hou.”

“The flow turned on the south side of Wailoa and went to Kiholo where it covered the pond. Then it turned to the west, where a new point is burning now. Lae-Hou is a long point, but this one is shorter. … Kiholo is closed by the lava. It is now only a heap of rocks.” (Eye witness account of flow; Kelly)

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June 4, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Along Ali‘i Drive

Current archaeological research indicates that from ca. AD 1000 to 1200 permanent settlement was in the windward areas of Hawai‘i Island, where rainfall was sufficient for successful growing of crops near the shore, population gradually spread throughout these windward areas during these centuries.

By the A.D. 1200s-1300s, it seems likely that Kona or parts of Kona had formed into a small settlement(s) with a ruler, local chiefs and commoners. Oral histories indicate that other settlements existed on the island, with Hilo and Hamakua (the later controlled by Waipi‘o) and several in Kohala of note. Small national heiau were present at this time.

Most historians estimate that Pa‘ao came to Hawai‘i (reportedly from Tahiti) around AD 1300. He arrived with his warriors, priests (kahunas) and new rulers (ali‘i). Pa‘ao is credited as initiating and/or expanding the kapu system of social structure, religion and order in Hawai‘i.

In the A.D. 1400s-1500s, the island became unified under the Pili line of rulers; based in Waipi‘o on the Hāmākua coast. In the time of the ruler ‘Umi-a-Liloa, ca. A.D. 1490-1525, the Royal Center was moved from Waipi‘o and Royal Centers in Kona became of importance.

From Kailua-Kona to Keauhou covers the entire length of Ali‘i Drive, seven miles of roadway and over seven centuries of Hawaiian Royalty archaeological, historic and cultural traditions that have shaped Hawai‘i into what it is today.

The focal point of Hawaiian social order and kapu was the ali‘i, or royal class. From this highborn group came the ruler-caretakers of the islands. The Ali‘i of Hawai‘i achieved such envied status primarily through strong genealogical connections.

In the centuries prior to 1778, several large and densely populated Royal Centers were located along the shoreline between Kailua and Hōnaunau.

According to archaeological reports and cultural traditions, there were seven Royal Centers in use in Kona and four that existed along what is now Ali‘i Drive on the Kona Coast, circa A.D. 1600-1800:

Kamakahonu, Kailua – Occupied by Kamehameha I between 1813 and 1819.
Hōlualoa – Area with numerous heiau and good surf. Associated with Keolonahihi in the ca. 1300, Keakamahana and Keakealaniwahine in ca. 1600 and Kamehameha I in the 18th Century.
Kahalu‘u – Complex of multiple heiau surrounding Kahalu‘u Bay.
Keauhou – This area is noted for the largest hōlua slide in Hawai‘i called Kaneaka, the surfing area called Kaulu, and numerous heiau.

The Royal Centers were areas selected by the ali‘i for their residences and ali‘i often moved between several residences throughout the year. The Royal Centers were selected for their abundance of resources and recreation opportunities, with good surfing and canoe-landing sites being favored.

With Kamehameha’s death in 1819, Liholiho (his son) and Ka‘ahumanu (his widow) assumed control of the kingdom. Shortly thereafter, the capital of the kingdom was moved from Hawai‘i Island, never to return.

In the absence of the king, high chief Kuakini (brother of Ka‘ahumanu) was eventually appointed governor of Hawai‘i Island and became an extremely powerful figure on the island. Kuakini resided primarily in Kailua Village. Here, the missionaries arrived in 1820, establishing a station where Kuakini and his many subjects lived.

On July 18, 1823, Ellis and his missionary companions traveled via the ala loa or ancient foot trail near the coast. There are a number of documentary resources (i.e. Māhele records, journal accounts, and survey documentation) that place the ancient ala loa in the vicinity of the “Government Road”, now known as Ali‘i Drive.

Along the seven-mile stretch of land between Kailua to Keauhou, Ellis counted 610 houses and 19 heiau, and estimated the uplands contained another 100 houses.

Allowing five persons to a house, Ellis and his companions estimated that there were 3,550 persons in the area. Ellis` narratives provide readers with further descriptions of the communities through which the group passed; he notes (segments of text relating to the coastal area:)

“Leaving Kairua (Kailua), we passed on through the villages thickly scattered along the shore to the southward.. The country around looked unusually green and cheerful, owing to the frequent rains, which, for some months past, have fallen on this side of the island. Even the barren lava, over which we travelled, seemed to veil its sterility beneath frequent tufts of tall waving grass, or spreading shrubs and flowers.”

In 1882, Queen Kapi‘olani brought four trees to Kona. Two were reportedly cuttings from a banyan tree at ‘Iolani Palace where they had been presented by royals from India. One banyan was planted at Hulihee Palace and later, in 1906, the Maguire family transplanted one that now stands near the entrance to Kailua Pier.

The other two trees were Moreton Bay Figs. One was planted at Holualoa Bay to mark the site where canoes were blessed and launched and it recently met its demise. The second was a gift from the Queen to Alexander Burgess and he planted it fronting his beach house – the present site of the Banyan Court Mall.

Today, Ali‘i Drive is a perfect setting for walking, running or biking, for the casual to competitive. Mile markers pace individual performance and guide exercisers along its level, picturesque course.

Historic Kailua Village also hosts renowned international sporting events (Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament, Ironman Triathlon Championship and Queen Lili‘uokalani Long Distance Canoe Races.)

Beautiful views and sweeping vistas make for pleasant drives; turn a corner and you move quickly from a strong lava flow shoreline to crystal clear white sand beaches, then quickly back again.

Historic sites once covered much of the Kailua to Keauhou section of the Kona Coast. It is important for us to honor the Ali‘i by maintaining, enhancing and interpreting the remaining ancestral inheritance.

By whatever means (vehicle, transit, bicycle or on foot,) following the footsteps of ancient royalty and embracing the scenic beauty, natural and archaeological features, historic sites, associated cultural traditions and recreational opportunities will give the traveler a greater appreciation and understanding of Hawai‘i’s past and sense of place in the world.

Click HERE to view/download for more information on Along Ali‘i Drive.

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