General | Page 168 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

August 23, 2018 by Peter T Young 3 Comments

Niu

Past cultural practices along the region of Wai‘alae to Kuli‘ou‘ou are generally associated with habitation, farming, fishing, gathering, religious activities and burials. During the early post contact period, this area was well-populated and several settlements, fishing villages and fishponds lined the coast.

Niu was noted in early records for a number of inland caves used for burials. “Sometimes the bodies of chiefs were placed in small canoes, or parts of a canoe, and hidden in roomy caverns, watched over by devoted guards.”

“This was done at Niu, where decayed remnants of canoes can still be seen. … On O‘ahu the caves of Niu … were abundantly used for burial.” (Westervelt; Thrum)

Here, areas along streams and springs were used for taro patches while other areas were used for dry land cultivation or pasture. Cultural practices associated with former fishponds in the region were significant prior to development of the area.

Fishponds played an important role in Hawaiian culture, providing a definite supply of food. Hawaiian fishponds were usually constructed in estuaries where freshwater streams flowed into the ocean.

Kūpapa Pond or Niu Fishpond (the former fishpond at Niuiki Circle) had water-worn walls 3-feet high and 8-feet wide that formed a 2,000-foot long semicircle around several acres. (By 1933, the pond had been filled and used for agriculture. In 1953, the pond was filled and developed for residential use.)

In 1826, the missionary Levi Chamberlain took a tour of the island of O‘ahu, traveling through the southern coast of O‘ahu westward from Makapu‘u.

He recorded a settlement of eighteen houses at Maunalua, with three additional settlements between Maunalua and Wai‘alae. These settlements were probably at Kuli‘ou‘ou, Niu and Wailupe.

In 1828, Chamberlain made a second tour of southeastern O‘ahu, this time traveling eastward from Waikiki. He arrived at Wai‘alae, reporting a school with at least 30 scholars. The next stop was at Niu.

“At a quarter before 9 o’clock we arrived at the pleasant settlement of Wai‘alae, distant on a straight line from Waikiki in a NE direction, about 4 miles, but much farther following the circuitous path along the sea shore.”

“This place is rendered agreeable by a grove of cocoanut trees and a number of branching kou trees, among which stand the grass huts of the natives, having a cool appearance, overshadowed by the waving tops of the cocoanuts, among which the trade winds sweep unobstructed.” (Cultural Surveys) This is Niu.

Niu literally means “coconut”; it was named for a woman who husked coconuts (He ‘o niu kana hana). Niu is variously described as an ‘ili in the ahupua‘a of Waikīkī or an ahupua‘a in the district of Kona. It extends from the border with Wailupe on the west to the border with Kuli‘ou‘ou on the east, and from the sea to the Ko‘olau Mountains.

Niu is divided into two valleys, separated by Kūlepeamoa (flapping of chicken) Ridge. On the west is Pia (arrowroot) Valley and on the east is Kūpaua (upright clam) Valley. The two streams of these valleys merge into Niu Stream near the coast.

This was the home of Alexander Adams. Kamehameha had awarded Adams control of over Niu Valley (much of which is still under the control on his descendants).

It is part of a tract of 2,446-acres that was once a summer home of Kamehameha I and which later claimed by Alexander Adams under Claim No. 802 filed February 14, 1848, with the land commission at the time of the Great Māhele.

The claim states: “From the testimony of Governor Kekūanāoʻa … it appears that the claimant was created lord or konohiki of this land, in the time of Kamehameha I, and that he has exercised the konohikiship of the same without dispute ever since the year of Our Lord 1822.”

It further appears that the claimant obtained his rights in this land, in the same way that he obtained his rights in the land comprised in the Claim No. 801 (in Downtown Honolulu,) namely in remuneration for services rendered the king as sea captain or sailing master.”

Captain Alexander Adams was born December 27, 1780; he left Scotland in 1792 to begin a life of working on the sea. This eventually led him to Hawaiʻi, where he arrived in 1811 on the American trading ship the ‘Albatross’ from Boston.

He became an intimate friend and confidential advisor to King Kamehameha I, who entrusted to him the command of the king’s sandalwood fleet. He became the first regular pilot for the port of Honolulu.

Adams is credited with helping to design the Hawaiian flag – a new flag for Hawaiʻi was needed to avoid confusion by American vessels (prior to that time, Hawaiian vessels flew the British Union Jack.)

“The Hawaiian flag was designed for King Kamehameha I, in the year 1816. As the King desired to send a vessel to China to sell a cargo of sandal-wood, he in company with John Young, Isaac Davis and Alexander Adams …”

“… made this flag for the ship, which was a war vessel, called the Forrester, carrying 16 guns, and was owned by Kamehameha I.” (Ka Nupepa Kuokoa, January 1, 1862)

On March 7, 1817, the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi sent Adams to China to sell the sandalwood. When he sailed to China, it was the first vessel under the flag of Hawaiʻi.

To enter the Chinese harbor, the ship was heavily taxed in port charges. Upon returning October 5, 1817, at Hilo and hearing of the amount Adams had to pay, King Kamehameha decided Hawaiʻi should also generate revenue from port charges. This was the origin of harbor dues in the islands.

Captain Adams was sent to Kauai by Kamehameha I to remove the Russians from Fort Elizabeth that had been set up in 1817. His words reportedly were, “upon arriving they were soon dispatched”. Adams raised the Kingdom of Hawai‘i flag over the fort in October 1817.

Adams stood on the shore with John Young at Kailua-Kona when the first American Christian missionaries anchored off shore on April 4, 1820. He helped convince the King to allow the missionaries to come ashore and take up residence in Hawaiʻi.

When the HMS Blonde arrived in 1825, Adams helped the Scottish naturalist James Macrae distribute some plants he thought would be commercially successful in the tropical climate.

In 1828, Queen Kaʻahumanu gave Adams over 290-acres of land in Kalihi Valley (on the island of Oʻahu) in connection with and in gratitude for his services. The area was called Apili.

Adams married three times, his first was to Sarah ‘Sally’ Davis, daughter of Isaac Davis; two of his wives were the Harbottle sisters (Sarah Harbottle and Charlotte Harbottle,) who were reared by Queen Kaʻahumanu and were favorites at court. According to his personal account, he was the father of 15 children, eight of whom were by his third wife.

After 30 years of piloting, Adams retired in 1853, grew fruit on his land in Kalihi Valley, and was great host to visitors. He also had a home on what was named Adams Lane (in 1850,) a small lane in downtown Honolulu off of Hotel Street named after him (near the Hawaiian Telephone company building.)

Adams died October 17, 1871. He is buried next to his friend and fellow Scotsman Andrew Auld in the Oʻahu Cemetery. Their common tombstone contains the following inscription in the Scots dialect: “Twa croanies frae the land of heather; Are sleepin’ here in death th’gether.”

His estate in Niu Valley was held by his granddaughter Mary Lucas, who started subdividing it in the 1950s. The area created by the filling of Kūpapa Fishpond is now the site of numerous oceanfront homes.

Niu Valley used to house the Dairyman’s (later known as Meadow Gold) dairy in the Niu Shopping Center area, and was the home of “Lani Moo,” their mascot. Most of Niu valley was dairy pasture with some small ranches and nurseries in the interior.

Prior to 1954 when the first residents of the Niu Valley subdivision moved into their new homes, Kalaniana‘ole Highway was a three lane road (one lane was for turning) leading to pig and cattle farms and fishponds. Niu Valley used to be a dairy farm and back then was considered the ‘country.’

Niu Valley Middle School first opened its doors in 1955 with just a seventh grade and a staff of only six members. Since then, it has grown from one building to 15 and now accommodates almost 800 students in grades sixth, seventh and eighth. Niu Valley Middle School is the only middle school in the Kaiser Complex (pop. 30,670). (Niu Valley Playground)

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Map of the island of Maunalua, O’ahu from 1938

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August 22, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Manduke

The first Baldwin on Maui, Rev. Dwight Baldwin was with the Fourth Company of missionaries to Hawaiʻi; he arrived at Honolulu, June 7, 1831. Though not a cowboy, he set out on a mule to treat those in the far reaches of Maui. (Equitrekking)

On September 1, 1888, Haleakala Ranch was incorporated in the Kingdom of Hawaii during the reign of King David Kalakaua. Shortly following incorporation, Henry Perrine Baldwin, co-founder of Alexander & Baldwin, became a shareholder and was also elected as the Ranch’s president. (Haleakala Ranch)

As the Ranch moved into the 20th century, Harry Baldwin became the Ranch’s president and his brother Sam was manager. In 1925, the two consolidated ranch ownership.

Until the 1920s Haleakala Ranch extended to the summit, and cattle were driven up the steep slopes and into the crater to graze on the grass at Paliku, near the eastern crater wall. (Decker, Dartmouth)

In 1927 the Baldwin brothers agreed to a land exchange that would allow the Territory of Hawaii to acquire Haleakala Crater from the Ranch to create Haleakala National Park. (HR) In exchange, the ranch received land in lower Waialua and lower Kama‘ole on an acre-for-acre basis.

“Shipping cattle to market back in the 1930s also involved long rides, mostly in the dark early morning hours. Loading them from the wharf onto the Humu‘ula, the Hawaii Meat Company’s cattle boat, and especially getting the first ones started up the gangplank, presented a problem. … Once started, the rest of the group followed the tracks of those on board, and it didn’t take long to finish loading.”

“Following the end of World War II, the ranch purchased surplus equipment, including a bulldozer and four-wheel-drive trucks, from the military. From this time on, ranch cattle work became more mechanized, with less dependence on horses and the associated long rides.”

“The bulldozer made short work of clearing the lower lantana and panini land, including creation of a system of dirt roads helpful in maintaining pastures and water systems.” (Baldwin)

Samuel Baldwin was manager of Haleakala Ranch for most of his life and president for the last three years, before he died in 1950, his son, Richard, the third-generation member of the Baldwin family to run Haleakala Ranch, took over as president in 1968. (Advertiser)

Richard Hobron Baldwin was born on a koa table at the family home in Mānoa Valley, the oldest son of Samuel Alexander and Kathrine Baldwin, and grandson of Henry P. Baldwin.

“My first experience with ranch work, aside from riding mostly around the yard at the ranch house on my pony named Jack, was branding some calves, offspring of the milk cows at ranch headquarters.”

“This was about 1918 or 1919, and it was exciting when, with the help of a cowboy, my rope got on the neck of a calf. Nothing much happened because these dairy calves just stood there”.

“Aside from the milking herd, which I believe produced milk for all employees, most of the cattle were not too tame. My earliest recollections of cowboy work involved cattle drives in nearby pastures, the biggest event being rounding up half-wild cattle at Pi‘iholo.”

“Following this came branding drives at Olinda, then later drives higher on the mountain at ‘Ukulele, which served as a base camp, with four old houses and corrals for our horses.”

Baldwin married Harriet Barbara ‘Haku’ Damon in May 1936 (they shared the same birth day, August 21; Baldwin in 1911, she in 1913).

The consummate horsewoman, Haku was intimately involved in racing and training the ranch’s thoroughbreds, including many champions who won at the Maui Fair track. (Notes son Peter, the word haku means ‘boss’ in Hawaiian – she earned this nickname while she was growing up.)

“Besides being an aggressive sportsman – he was proficient in golf, tennis, polo, fishing and hunting – he was a winner. … On the ranching side, he was one of the best pasture men we ever had here. He taught me that we were not really raising cattle, we were raising grass, and cattle were the harvesting machines.” (Rice)

Early visitors to the ranch included writer Jack London, General George Patton and Olympic swimmer and surfing pioneer Duke Kahanamoku. (Siler) It’s the latter that leads to the nickname for Baldwin …

He acquired his nickname at an early age, recounts his son Peter. Richard was about three years old when legendary Hawaiian swimmer Duke Kahanamoku was gaining worldwide fame as an Olympic gold medalist and record holder.

As Richard dog-paddled across a swimming pool, an onlooker exclaimed, ‘There goes the man, Duke!’ The name ‘Manduke’ stuck, and all who knew him used it. “He was even listed as Manduke in the Maui phone book.” (Peter Baldwin, Harrison)

‘Cattleman of the Century’ is how the Hawai‘i Cattleman’s Association honored Manduke Baldwin in 1988. (Harrison) Consummate rancher, fisher, polo player, Manduke Baldwin died on Christmas Day 2002. He was 91. (Lots here from Anchval and Harrison.)

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August 21, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hawaii State Constitution of 1950

“In January 1948, the Senate Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs directed Senator Cordon of Oregon to make an investigation of Hawaii’s statehood qualifications.”

“The investigation was made in January, 1948. Senator Cordon supported the recommendations of previous congressional committees and himself recommended that the United States Senate take immediate action favorable to statehood.”

“His report stated in part. ‘Any other recommendations would be inconsistent with the facts and evidence disclosed during the investigation, the desires of Hawaii’s people and the conclusions reached by the last two Congressional Investigating Committees.’”

“Additional hearings were held by the Senate SubCommittee on Interior and Insular Affairs on April 15, 1948, but no report was issued.”

“An effort was made by Senator Knowland of California, by resolution, to discharge the committee and to have the statehood issue come to the floor directly. On May 20, 1948, the Senate voted 21 to 50 against Senator Knowland’s resolution discharging the committee.”

“In anticipation of statehood, and prior to the passage of Act 334 by the 1949 territorial legislature, authorizing a constitutional convention, the Hawaii Statehood Commission in 1948 established a number of subcommittees to prepare general materials dealing with the problems involved in the drafting of a constitution.”

“These subcommittees met and submitted reports dealing with major constitutional areas, which were discussed with various groups. The Legislative Reference Bureau of the University of Hawaii prepared a number of reports in connection with the work of the subcommittees.”

“These reports, drafted by the Bureau from 1948 to early 1950, became part of a 400-page publication, which was later made available to members of the constitutional convention, entitled Manual of State Constitutional Provisions.”

“The work of the subcommittees established by the Hawaii Statehood Commission served to create a great deal of interest in the convening of a constitutional convention. It also resulted in many of the committee members seeking election as delegates to the Constitutional convention.”

“Act 334 provided for the election of 63 delegates from all of the islands which constitute the Territory of Hawaii. The delegates were to be elected at a primary and then general elections, similar to the normal political elections in Hawaii.”

“The elections were to be held throughout the islands and all qualified voters of the islands were eligible to run for office. The use of the election procedure adopted by the legislature indicated a desire to provide broad representation from the community and for opportunity for full discussion, particularly important since this was to be the first State Constitution for Hawaii.”

“The delegates first met on April 4, 1950, and the document which they agreed upon was signed on July 22, 1950. More than 110 days elapsed during the period of the deliberation of the delegates to the convention.”

“Of this period 78 days were devoted to actual working sessions, which included the debates and other formal actions leading to the formulation and adoption of the constitution.”

“The convention kept a complete verbatim transcript by means of electronic tape recordings of all of the plenary and Committee of the Whole sessions after April 9, 1950. More than 365 reels of recording tape were used. This is about 87 miles of electronic tape.”

“It was estimated by the engineers that approximately 5 million words were spoken during the floor debates, apart from those spoken in the various committee meetings. (During the 15 weeks of the convention, there were an average of some 20 to 30 committee meetings per week.)

“Only some 14,000 words, however, are to be found in the constitution and of these approximately 4,000 are in the “schedule” which describes the political districts to be used in the initial elections and for subsequent reapportionment every ten years. The constitution proper, therefore, is only about 10,000 words in length, a measure of brevity achieved by only eight other state constitutions.”

“The document signed by 62 of the 63 delegates (one delegate refrained from signing the document on the grounds that it improperly ‘constitutionalized’ the provisions of the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act of 1920) reflects the thinking of the community as expressed by the elected delegates.”

“The constitution is substantially ahead of its time (recall that it was prepared in 1950) in reducing the voting age from 21 to 20 – only one other state, the State of Georgia, then had a voting age of less than 21.”

“It includes a provision guaranteeing the right to organize for the purpose of collective bargaining, a constitutional protection which had been included in only three states prior to 1950, in New York, Missouri, and New Jersey.”

“The constitution of the State of Hawaii was signed by the delegates in a public ceremony at lolani Palace, Honolulu, on July 22, 1950. The document then went before the territorial legislature under the terms of the 1940 act which had established the constitutional convention.”

“(W)hen the legislature met in special session on September 29, 1950, it found (in joint Resolution 1) that the constitution was ‘acceptable in its entirety to the Legislature of the Territory of Hawaii,’ and proposed no changes or alternatives.”

“This joint resolution set forth the form of the plebiscite ballot on the proposed constitution, submitted to the voters at the general election of November 7, 1950. At that election, 82,788 ballots were cast in favor of adopting the proposed constitution, against 27,109 ‘no’ votes, a favorable ratio of approximately three to one.”

It was a little over eight year later, “in the wake of Alaska, Hawaii was admitted into the Union, under Public Law 3 of the 86th Congress, signed by President Eisenhower on March 18, 1959.”

“Public Law 86-3 made three relatively minor changes in the provisions of the Hawaii constitution. One was the deletion from the boundaries of the state (Article XIII, Section 1) of Palmyra, a small atoll lying some 960 nautical miles south of Honolulu.”

“Second, the article on Hawaiian Homes lands was ‘deemed to include’ a section of Public Law 86-3, which listed the provisions of the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act which could be amended only with the consent of the United States.”

“The third change was to reduce from two to one the number of Representatives in Congress to which Hawaii the state was initially to be entitled (Article XVI, Section 10), subject to increase at the next reapportionment of the House of Representatives.”

“The admission act also required that the people of Hawaii again vote on statehood. A three-question plebiscite was prescribed, each requiring an affirmative majority vote if Hawaii were to be admitted to the Union: (1) Shall Hawaii be admitted? (2) Are the state boundaries set by the act approved? (3) Are the provisions of the act with respect to the disposition of public lands in Hawaii approved?”

“The three-fold proposition was submitted to the Hawaii electorate at the primary election of June 27, 1959, at which time the people also balloted on the first state officers. Some 140,000 persons cast valid ballots on each portion of the plebiscite. In each case the result was approximately identical: a 17 to 1 vote in the affirmative.”

“On July 28, 1959, the voters of Hawaii elected their first state governor, lieutenant governor, members of the state legislature, two federal senators and a representative in Congress.”

“The results of the election were certified to the President of the United States, as required by Public Law 86-3. On August 21, 1959, President Eisenhower signed the proclamation admitting Hawaii as the 50th state of the American Union of states. Thereupon, this constitution became effective.” (Roberts, Proceedings of the Constitutional Convention of Hawaii 1950)

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August 20, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Robert Wilcox’s Quest for Statehood

In 1890, Robert Wilcox was elected to the Legislature in the Islands. Following the overthrow of Queen Liliʻuokalani in 1893, the Committee of Safety established the Provisional Government of Hawaiʻi as a temporary government until annexation by the United States.

The Provisional Government convened a constitutional convention and established the Republic of Hawaiʻi on July 4, 1894. The Republic continued to govern the Islands.

From January 6 to January 9, 1895, in a “Counter-Revolution,” patriots of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi and the forces that had overthrown the constitutional Hawaiian monarchy were engaged in a war that consisted of battles on the island of Oʻahu.

It has also been called the Second Wilcox Rebellion of 1895, the Revolution of 1895, the Hawaiian Counter-revolution of 1895, the 1895 Uprising in Hawaiʻi, the Hawaiian Civil War, the 1895 Uprising Against the Provisional Government or the Uprising of 1895.

In their attempt to return Queen Liliʻuokalani to the throne, it was the last major military operation by royalists who opposed the overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi. The goal of the rebellion failed.

Wilcox was court-martialed and sentenced to death, but the sentence was commuted to thirty-five years. While in prison in 1895, Pope Leo XIII granted an annulment of their marriage. The Italian Consul and the Catholic Bishop at Honolulu confirmed this action.

In January, 1896, he was given a conditional pardon and became a free man; later that year, Wilcox married again, this time to Mrs. Theresa Cartwright. In 1898, President Dole gave him a full pardon.

With the establishment of Territorial status in the Islands, Hawaiʻi was eligible to have a non-voting delegate in the US House of Representatives.

Wilcox and others formed the Independent “Home Rule” Party and Wilcox ran as a candidate for the Delegate position (against Republican Samuel Parker and Democrat Prince David Kawānanakoa.) Wilcox won, and served as the first delegate and representative of Hawaiʻi in the US Congress.

Robert W Wilcox – the man who figured so prominently and conspicuously noted, related to the overthrow, “Queen Lili‘uokalani brought these evils upon herself and the country both by her personal corruption, and that of her Government.”

“She surrounded herself with bad advisers, and seemed determined to drive the nation to destruction. Good people had no influence over her whatever, for she indignantly refused to listen to them.”

“I believe that if we can be annexed to the United States, the rights of all of our citizens, and especially those of the native Hawaiians, will be protected more carefully than they have ever been under the monarchy.”

“My countrymen, with the exception of the most intelligent among them, do not understand much about these things. They need to be educated. They have so often been told by designing men that the United States was their enemy that they are naturally suspicious.”

“Politicians who have sought to use the natives simply as so many tools have deceived them. When they understand from the lips of disinterested men and patriots what annexation means, and become acquainted with the benefits that it will bring them, they will be as much in favor of the movement as any of our other classes of citizens.”

“They are naturally somewhat prejudiced against (the Provisional Government), as monarchy is the only form of Government with which they are familiar, but this feeling will quickly wear away as the Hawaiians are led to see that the Government is friendly to them and their interests. They already have confidence in the integrity and patriotism of President Dole.”

“I have repeatedly (advocated annexation to the United States) in public meetings held in this city. … but I am compelled to move cautiously or I shall lose my influence over them. I believe I am doing a good work by constantly conversing with them on the subject.

“I have told my countrymen that the monarchy is gone forever, and when they ask me what is the best thing to follow it I tell them annexation, and I firmly believe that in a very short time every Hawaiian will be in favor of that step.” (Wilcox interview with Hoes; Reports of Committees of the Senate of the United States, 1893-1894)

“Washington. July 3 (1901). Delegate Wilcox, of Hawaii, announces here that at the very opening of the next session of Congress in December he will introduce a bill granting statehood to the territory of Hawaii. Mr. Wilcox says that he does not fully expect that the bill will become a law next winter, but he predicts early statehood for the territory.”

“‘Of course I realize,’ says Mr. Wilcox, ‘that this proposition will meet with opposition on the ground that we have but recently been incorporated Into a territory and that we should wait, but I shall Introduce the bill just the same and commence working upon it.’”

“Mr. Wilcox also says that he is going to introduce a bill to provide for the laying of a cable between Honolulu and San Francisco as soon as Congress meets. There are several bills of that sort already on tap, but another will do little harm.”

“The statehood bill that Mr. Wilcox says he is going to bring forward will result In nothing but a discussion of the political conditions In Hawaii. There is no chance whatever that during the term for which Mr. Wilcox has been elected to sit in Congress he can get a statehood bill through for the territory.”

“Arizona and New Mexico have for years been trying for statehood, and they are today apparently as far from it as ever, although the Congressional committees have again and again recommended the passage of the bills.”

“In the case of Hawaii more objections than Mr. Wilcox has mentioned will be raised. I remember that before the Hawaiian annexation resolution was passed Senator Hoar, of Massachusetts, went to the White House one day and told the President that he would let that resolution go through if it could be understood that Hawaii should not be admitted into the Union as a State.”

“Hoar wanted that incorporated into the annexation resolution. This could not be done, because It would have been unconstitutional. But the promise was then and there given that if Hawaii should apply for statehood she would be refused for years to come, and that is the general understanding of the matter In Washington.”

“Expansion would not have taken place on so broad a scale if it had been understood that an application would so soon come from one of the island possessions for Statehood. Porto Rico is almost possibly not quite as well qualified for statehood as is Hawaii.”

“The island of Luzon with the city of Manila, is about as well qualified from the standpoint of general civilization and enlightenment as is Hawaii. The bars will not be let down for a long time to come to any of these territories.”

“It will take a very long probationary period to qualify the Territory of Hawaii for statehood in the minds of the American government officials. The recent political dildoes that have been cut there do not help the case.”

“Dole and his outfit have put Hawaii fifty years further from statehood than it was on the day that Congress finally passed a resolution annexing the Islands to the United States. Their continuation in office there for a few years more will put Hawaii everlastingly outside the pale of American political civilization.”

“The Administration thought when It annexed Hawaii, that it had got an asset: it finds that with Dole thrown in, Hawaii is a political liability. E. S. L.” (Honolulu Republican, July 17, 1901)

“What we are all looking forward to is Statehood and anything that will lead toward that end must be helped along by us. We will not mind much about the Governor then for it will be the people who will be paramount.” (Delegate Wilcox’s Impassioned Address to Hawaiians, The Independent, July 10, 1902)

Wilcox ran for re-election, but lost to Republican Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole Piʻikoi (Prince Kūhiō served from 1903 until his death in 1922.)

Wilcox returned to Washington to finish out his term (November 6, 1900 to March 3, 1903,) but was very ill. He came back to Hawaiʻi in 1903, and died October 26, 1903. He is buried in the Catholic cemetery on King Street.

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August 19, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘A City in a Grove’

“When the whalers began to frequent (Honolulu Harbor) place in numbers, a town soon sprung up, and by the year 1820, Honolulu contained some six or seven thousand inhabitants.”

“To-day its population is reckoned at 17,000, a larger number than the capital of the important British Colony of New Zealand could recently boast.”

“The First view of Honolulu, on approaching it from the sea, has been variously described by visitors, some of whom have expressed great disappointment, whilst others have gone into raptures over the scene.”

“Unless, however, from exaggerated descriptions the traveler has been led to expect something extremely wonderful and unusual, I do not understand how anyone can fail to be charmed with the view of Honolulu …”

“… and its surrounding scenery as seen from the deck of an approaching vessel, especially after many days’ confinement on shipboard, with nothing but the waste of waters around him.”

“It is true that the hills of Oahu have not the same luxurious clothing of vegetation that is common in many of the island groups of the Southern Pacific. It is true also that the town has no characteristic buildings of a striking nature to arrest attention.”

“Nevertheless, Honolulu is a prettier place to look at from the sea than nineteen out of twenty port tropics or elsewhere. It has rightly been called ‘a city in a grove.’”

“Until trees were planted it cannot have been an inviting-looking place. No visitor of former days, up to five and twenty years ago, has anything to say in praise of the city, however delighted with the surrounding scenery.”

“Dusty streets, insignificant houses irregularly built and located, with hardly a tree to be seen anywhere, presented no feature worth a second thought.”

“All this is now changed, and by nothing more so than by the growth of the trees, now universally to be found throughout town and suburbs.”

“A few of the more important building tower above the trees; but for the most part the houses and stores are completely hidden by rich evergreen foliage.”

“This alone gives a character of its own to Honolulu which, charming as seen from the sea, is still more delightful when its cool shade is experienced in the streets and gardens of the town.”

“The first evidence of the commercial activity of the port to which the visitor is introduced is the large and substantial wharf or dock, as (according to an imported custom) it is usually called.”

“Here the large steamers of the Mail Service can lie alongside with ease. On the wharf is a huge landing shed, and behind this a large building of stone, occupied as a warehouse for bonded goods.”

“Facing the Esplanade Wharf are the Custom-house buildings, the entrance to the Custom-house itself is on Fort street. The department occupies half the upper floor of one of the buildings. They are all solid-looking erections of stone, and form a block by themselves, having open ground around them on three sides and a wide street on the other.”

“Of these the first was built in 1860, a two-story, fireproof building, sixty feet by sixty. It is here that Customs Department are located, and hence the building is usually known as the Custom-house’”

“Immediately alongside of this a similar warehouse was erected in 1867, and quite lately, in 1878, it has been found necessary to add another large bonding store, 200 feet in length by a width of 50 feet. This latter building has, however, but one story.”

“The isolated position of these warehouses and the substantial manner in which they have been built of stone, with slate or corrugated iron for roofing, renders them the safest stores in the town, and they are recognized as such by all the insurance companies, who take risks on their contents at lower rates than on any other stores.”

“Outside the shed I found quite a crowd of vehicles with their chattering Kanaka drivers looking for a fare. I chartered one, and I and my belongings were quickly bowled over the level streets to my destination.”

“Of course, I went to the Hawaiian Hotel, that pride of all the white inhabitants of Honolulu. It used, I hear, not to be so highly esteemed by a dissatisfied section of the natives, because it was built by the Government and cost a considerable sum of money, ($120,000 or so), to raise which the Government of the day ran the country into debt.”

“Next day I undertook a voyage of discovery through the town and found out the Government Buildings, and the King’s palace, and many other places of more or less interest. A new palace is in course of erection, and it is estimated that it will be completed before the beginning of 1881.”

“From the palace I went to the Government buildings. This is a plain structure, but of handsome proportions, and a decided credit to the Kingdom.”

“The great central hall and staircase of the buildings is lighted by a lantern tower, which is one of the most conspicuous objects in any view of the town from sea or shore, and is a relieving feature in a design otherwise rather homely in its character.”

“The Library is a highly creditable one. As might naturally have been expected, it is particularly rich in works upon the Hawaiian Islands or in which descriptions of the Islands, their people, language, fauna and flora, or anything relating to their history, are to be found.”

“I closed my afternoon’s excursion with a visit to the O‘ahu Prison. This is situated at the west side of the town and immediately at the mouth of the Nu‘uanu Valley. Its position for healthiness cannot be surpassed, subject as it is to every breath of the trade winds.”

“Built in 1857 of coral stone, cut from the various reefs by the prisoners themselves, and modeled after the Charlestown prison, near Boston, it so far has proved large enough for the criminal population of the country.”

“All prisoners whose sentences are over three months are sent here; also prisoners committed for trial to the various terms of the Supreme and Circuit Courts. There is cell accommodation for 170, and the usual average of prisoners is 150 to 155, one half of whom are natives, the other half foreigners and Chinese…”

“Prisoners are employed making roads, wharves, bridges, in fact any public work which may be going on at the time. In consequence of prisoners being thus employed, with the exception of such as are kept inside as servants, or on the sick list, or awaiting trial …”

“… no one, to look at the prison in the day time, would suspect that at night every cell was occupied, as from 6 A.M. to 5:50 P.M. all that can work are at work.”

“Looking seaward from the prison I noticed a building which had been erected upon the reef, and on enquiry found it to be a Quarantine Station. This building had been erected by the Government in the anticipation of its being required for purposes of quarantine, but it was not until the 28th of March, this year, that occasion occurred to put it to use for its proper purposes.”

“On the next day, on which I had leisure to pursue my examination of the town, I visited some of its educational establishments. There are plenty of native schools everywhere in this Kingdom.”

“Is it not the proud boast of the Kanaka race and of its teachers that it is ahead of all those nations which pride themselves on their advances in what we call western civilization in the proportion to the total population of those who can read and write their own language …”

“I never saw any theatrical representation in Honolulu. Neither tragedy nor comedy, burlesque nor opera can be said to be naturalized here yet. Nevertheless there is a theatre Royal, where occasionally a passing company angles for a few dollars with various results.”

“There is another public institution in Honolulu which does credit to the country, but which I did not visit. This is known as Queen Emma’s Hospital, having been named after his Queen by Kamehameha IV.”

“There is in Merchant Street another valuable public institution not supported by Government. This is the Sailors’ Home, which is maintained by a society organized in 1853, called the Sailors’ Home Society.”

“There is one public institution which every town ought to be able to boast of, more especially every tropical town, which I miss in Honolulu. There is no public park in or about the town.”

“The only open spaces in the town are Emma Square and the ground around the Government buildings. Emma Square is of no great extent.”

“The last, perhaps the most important place I have to mention is the bank. Messrs. Bishop & Co.’s premises are of stone, and handsome building at the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets. This is the only bank on the islands.”

“On the first Saturday afternoon after my arrival in Honolulu I went, as every stranger does, and as a very large number of the residents do also, to the fish market. The place is on Queen street, just beyond Messrs. Brewer & Co.’s premises, and covers a considerable area between that place and the wharf which goes by its name.”

“This is the market of Honolulu. Not only fish, but fruit and vegetables and butchers’ meat, are to be purchased here. On Saturday all the country people come into town who can, and on the afternoon of that day the place is so crowded by pedestrians, that it is almost impossible to move about in it.”

“And now, before quitting Honolulu, I must not forget to mention two facts which do credit to the paternal Government which takes its municipal affairs under its wing. Water is laid on over almost all the town, and the streets are lighted with gas.” (Bowser, 1880)

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