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July 9, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 106 – February 5, 1820

February 5, 1820 – Last night was one of the most toilsome for the sailors that that we have had since our embarkation. The wind fair and strong and the sea exceedingly rough to day, and the waves break over deck repeatedly. But still we have great cause for thankfulness that we are wafted rapidly towards a milder climate. (Thaddeus Journal)

Feb. 5th Fresh gales and a heavy sea. Shipped great quantities of water on deck, owing to heavy head swell or large cross sea. (James Hunnewell)

5. – For 3 days past we have a continued gale, yet most of the time it has been favourable. Last night the sailors say was the worst time we have had since we left Boston. Here I lay in my little cabin as quiet as I never did at home, while the waves were rolling over my head 2 or 3 feet deep. Blessed be God whose waking eyes never slumber nor sleep. Trusting in him I will not fear, though the floods encompass me & I go down into the depth of the sea. I have never seen the waves so high as they are now. They sometimes break over the bows of the ship as high as the foreyard washing over the deck with much violence. (Samuel Whitney Journal)

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July 8, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Haiku Valley Communications … and Stairway

With World War II underway, the Navy recognized the need to be able to communicate across the Pacific.

A plan was proposed in the early spring of 1942; a group of radio experts determined a superpower radio station with pan-Pacific range might be built provided that the antenna could be raised high enough above the ground.

The greater the power to be radiated, the higher and larger must be the antenna system and the network of ground wires under it.

An Alexanderson Alternator was the sending source; it is a rotating machine invented in 1904 for use as a radio transmitter (as a technology, it was later replaced by vacuum tube transmitters.)

The Navy discovered that, rather than the conventional steel radio tower, the best way to accomplish that was by stringing copper cable between the peaks of two mountains with vertical drops.

The solution was to find a topographic feature that would act like the “unbuildable” tall tower. Using technology developed pre-World War I, they strategically positioned four Alexanderson Alternators; one was located in Haiku Valley.

Haiku Valley with its horseshoe shape and sheer side-walls filled the prescription perfectly, except for the logistical nightmare of constructing in an all but inaccessible area.

Then stepped forward (and up) two pioneers, Bill Adams and Louis Otto, who in 21-days, climbed the vertical cliffs in Haiku Valley, pounding in iron spikes into the face of the cliff (to be used as supports for a ladder and wooden staircase up the mountain.)

The Navy then installed a lift to haul up materials and strung cables across the valley. The Alexanderson Alternator radio system, transmitting Morse code across the Pacific, was operational in 3-months.

The equipment at Haiku provided reliable transoceanic radiotelegraph communication and was able to send signals to submarines during World War 2 – while they remained underwater – as far away as Tokyo Bay.

The Navy maintained the Haiku system from 1943 to 1970, when they reconfigured the facility as an OMEGA radio navigation system: it then became part of a network of worldwide OMEGA stations (two US stations (Haiku and North Dakota,) joined by Argentina, Norway, Liberia, France, Japan and Australia.)

When the eight station chain became operational, day to day operations at Haiku were managed by the United States Coast Guard and was used by several airlines flying long range routes over water, as well as by military forces. The new station could radiate transmissions at a power of 10,000-watts and over an 8,000-mile radius.

The OMEGA antenna system reaches 7,200-feet across Haiku Valley and is 1,250-feet above the ground. The anchors weigh over 180,000-pounds. Unlike the original construction for the Alexanderson Alternator (climbing the cliff,) a helicopter, helium balloons and hot air balloons were used in erecting the anchors and placing the wires.

OMEGA was the first truly-global radio navigation system and had the ability to achieve a four-mile accuracy when fixing a position for aircraft.

Using receiver units, it enabled ships and aircraft to determine their position by receiving very low frequency radio signals transmitted by a network of fixed terrestrial radio beacons. The Haiku OMEGA facility became operational around 1971 and was shut down in 1997.

Initially, the system was to be used for navigating nuclear bombers across the North Pole to Russia. Later, it was found useful for submarines and aircraft.

With the Global Positioning System (GPS) being declared fully operational, the use of OMEGA had dwindled to a point where continued operation was not economically justified; it ended on September 30, 1997.

Obviously, all of this ultimately leads us to a discussion on the Haiku Ladder, Haiku Stairs – the Stairway to Heaven.

The Stairway is a 3,922-step ladder/stairway ascending the summit of the Koʻolau mountain range. First built by the Navy in 1942 to access transmission facilities at the top of the ridge, the wooden stairs were replaced in 1955 with ones built of galvanized metal.

In 1997, after the OMEGA facility was abandoned and plans were underway to remove the Stairs, Mayor Harris requested that the Coast Guard transfer the Stairs to the City. The City then spent $875,000 to repair the Haiku Stairs.

The City had planned to reopen the Haiku Stairs in October 2002. But from 2002 to 2003, the popular hiking attraction became a point of contention with area residents.

They complained that as many as 200-hikers a day were trespassing through their property, parking on their streets, blocking mail delivery and trash pickup and arriving early in the morning, causing dogs to bark and waking residents.

Then, in 2005, Mayor Hannemann tried to transfer the Stairs to DLNR. I was DLNR Director then. While I believe the stairs are an excellent climbing (and vertigo) experience, I do not believe its ownership and operation is a state concern. (It is certainly not a natural trail, that’s the kind of stuff DLNR deals with.)

We recommended that a private entity step forward and manage the stairs – for the City or lease it from them. We believed that an operator could charge a fee for hikers to climb the stairs and use the revenue for operations and insurance.

The Stairs remain closed.

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Junction of Haiku Road and Kamehameha Highway.-(DavidJessup)-

Black arrow points out the 60 foot tower on the North cliff. The white arrow indicates the lower hoist A frame-(DavidJessup)-

Bomb proof transmitter building - view east-(DavidJessup)-

CCL house at the peak showing the upper hoist house-(DavidJessup)-

Cement headed for the top of the South cliff-(DavidJessup)-

View West. Cage for the South hoist.

Construction of four antennas, each over a mile in length, had just begun-(DavidJessup)-1943

Kaneohe_Omega_Transmitter_with_CH-53_1987

Looking down from Transmitter Building-(DavidJessup)-

Very Low Frequency Alternator transmitted 200,000 watts of radio signal at a frequency of 16.8 Khz-(DavidJessup)-

Wooden_Ladder-cliff_falls_away_on_each_side-(DavidJessup)-

July 8, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 107 – February 6, 1820

February 6, 1820 – Lat. 53° S. Lon. 78° w. – In many respects a pleasant sabbath. The Lord has greatly smiled upon us during another week, in delivering us so speedily from the Cape. Had this course of winds arisen a little sooner instead of proceeding directly on our course, we must have stood away upon the other tack, running South and East to avoid the danger of the weather inclement, but enjoyed our prayer meeting both in the morning and afternoon, and was enabled with joy to say again, “Hitherto hath the Lord helped us. He still gives us favorable winds without and a comfortable state within. – Brother and Sister Ruggles scarcely able however to attend public worship. (Thaddeus Journal)

February 6, Sabbath, Lat. 59 – off the Straits of Magellan, west of Tierra del Fuego. Last night, the winds began to blow and the seas to roll, as we had never before witnessed; so that the two conflicting powers seemed to agitate the ocean to its very foundations. Our vessel labored excessively, the seas constantly breaking over, threatened every moment to overpower her. I think I never so much realized the weakness of man, and the power of the Almighty. After all, it is said we have had an uncommon favorable time in turning the Cape, such as few experience; and we feel that we can truly say that mercy and goodness hath followed us hitherto. (Lucia Ruggles Holman)

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July 7, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

“(Y)ou are not like other white men”

King Kaumuali‘i of Kauai decided to send his son Humehume (George Prince) to America, at least, in part, to receive a formal education.

Humehume was about six years old when he boarded the Hazard that ultimately sailed into Providence, Rhode Island on June 30, 1805 after a year-and-a-half at sea. Over the next few years he made his way to Worcester, Massachusetts.

Later, on October 23, 1819, the Pioneer Company of American Protestant missionaries from the northeast US set sail on the Thaddeus for Hawai‘i.

There were seven American couples sent by the ABCFM to convert the Hawaiians to Christianity in this first company. These included two Ordained Preachers, Hiram Bingham and his wife Sybil and Asa Thurston and his wife Lucy …

… two Teachers, Mr. Samuel Whitney and his wife Mercy and Samuel Ruggles and his wife Mary; a Doctor, Thomas Holman and his wife Lucia; a Printer, Elisha Loomis and his wife Maria; and a Farmer, Daniel Chamberlain, his wife and five children.

With the missionaries were four Hawaiian students from the Foreign Mission School, Thomas Hopu, William Kanui, John Honoliʻi and Humehume. They arrived in Kailua-Kona on April 4, 1820.

“[April] 5th [1820]. The natives appear very kind, express their generosity by sending us hogs, potatoes, melons, and various kinds of fruits. Fresh provisions relish well after living almost half a year on salt food.”

“We understand that the Kings and Chiefs are all pleased, with our object in settling among them but some wicked white men are endeavoring to prejudice them against us, by telling them that our intention is to get possession of the Islands. We know not yet what God designs to do with us, but trust the enemy will not be suffered to triumph over us.” — Saml. Ruggles.

Then, Ruggles and Whitney took Humehume home to Kauai.

“May 2 (1820). To-day brother Whitney and myself have been called to leave our dear little number at Woahoo, to accompany George P. Tamoree (Kaumualii – Humehume) to his native Isle, and to the bosom of his Father.”

“[May] 10th [1820]. This morning Tamoree sent for me, said his interpreter was going away to be gone several days and he wished to say a few things to me before he went.”

“‘I want to know, says he, if you love Hoomehoome, if you love me, if you like to stay here and learn my people.’ I assured him, that I loved his son and him, wished to spend my life in doing them good, and not only I, but Mr. Whitney and all who came with us, wished the same.”

“‘Hoomehoome tell me so,’ says he; he then shed tears freely, and said, ‘I love Hoomehoome, I love him very much, more than my other children. (Tamoree has two other children besides George, a daughter older and a son younger.)”

“‘I thought he was dead; I cry many times because I think he was dead. Some Captains tell he live in (America) but I not believe; I say no, he dead, he no more come back.’”

“‘But he live, he come again, my heart very glad. I want my son to help me, he speak English well and can do my business. But he is young, young men are sometimes wild they want advice. I want you stay here and help Hoomehoome, and when vessels come, you & Hoomehoome go on board & trade, so I make you a Chief.’”

“I told him I wished not to be a Chief neither could I do any of his public business, but was willing to advise his son and assist him in every thing when it was consistent with the object for which we came to his Island.”

“He expressed some surprise when I told him I wished not to be a Chief, but when I explained to him what we wished to do, he appeared satisfied and pleased.”

“This afternoon the King sent to me and requested that I should come and read to him in his Bible. I read the first Chap of Gen. and explained to him what I read as well as I could.”

“He listened with strict attention frequently asking pertinent questions and said ‘I can’t understand it all, I want to know it. You must learn my language fast, and then tell me all. No white man before, ever read to me & talk like you.’” — S. R.

Kaumuali‘i naturally “expressed some surprise” when Ruggles and Whitney refused to be chief. In fact, the two missionaries continued to puzzle the residents of Kauai as they toured the island, for these were white men unlike any the Hawaiians had met before.

One family offered the missionaries a wife and a daughter “as a token of respect and kindness.” When Ruggles firmly refused the sexual favor, the family was confused, “all white men before say it was good, but you are not like other white men.” (Ruggles Journal)

“[June] Sat. 17th [1820]. The week past I have spent principally in visiting the different parts of Wimai; believe there is scarcely a house that I have not entered and my friendly Aloha.”

“The more I visit and become acquainted with this people, the more I feel interested in them, and the more I desire to spend my strength and life in endeavoring to secure to them the eternal welfare of their souls.”

“I sometimes feel almost impatient to know the language that I may explain to them the way of life and salvation. What little I can say they will listen to with the greatest attention, but their answer will be, ‘I want to know more, by and by I shall understand’”.

“One said yesterday, ‘the God of America is good but the Gods of Attooi are good for nothing; we throw them all away; by and by the American God will be the God of Attooi’”.

“The King appears more & more desirous for instruction; complains that he cannot spend time enough with his book, but says it is a time of unusual hurry at present, and he is soon to give his mind more thoroughly to it.”

“He with his Queen and several servants are able to read in words of four letters. Neither of them knew the alphabet when we arrived.”

“Says the King at one time when I visited him, ‘Hoomehoome says you no tell lie like some white men, now you must not tell lie when you go Woahoo, but you must come back and live with me’”.

“The week past has been a busy time with the natives. The King’s rent has been brought in from all parts of the Island and from Onehow (Niihau) a small Island about 15 miles to the westward. It consisted of hogs, dogs, mats, tappers, feathers, pearl fishhooks, calabashes and paddles.”

“This rent is to go to Owhyhee (Hawaii) as a present to the young King. It was interesting to see the natives come, sometimes more than a hundred at a time, with their loads on their backs and lay down their offerings at the feet of their great and good Chief as they call him.”

“When will the time arrive that they shall come and bow down to Jehovah, and give themselves living sacrifices to Him who has purchased them with His blood. I trust the day is at hand.” — S. R.

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Samuel and Nancy Ruggles

Samuel and Mercy Whitney-1819

Hiram and Sybil Bingham-1819

Asa Thurston and Lucy Goodale Thurston

July 7, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 108 – February 7, 1820

February 7, 1820 – Monday. – Advancing still rapidly toward the field of our trials and privations, we have today felt it to be of special importance to inquire diligently and seriously, what qualities of character are specially needful to the missionary in order to meet the trials, to endure the sufferings, and to perform the lablors of a missionary life, what are his peculiar wants; and what should be unitedly asked of God for those who are employed in propogating the gospel. We find much to humble us and bring us on our knees – much indeed to encourage us. Cheerfully have we this evening united with our brethren in America, and with the friends of Christ in different lands, in observing the Monthly Concert of prayer. God was with us. Our hearts were made to rejoice. The affectionate and parting counsels of Brothers Fisk and Parsons were communicated; the design of Christ’s kingdom and of this concert, and the promises of the gospel were contemplated, and the mercy seat approached, we believe, with great satisfaction. We have new occasion to say the missionary cause has peculiar charms for us, and cheerfully will we wear out in its service. Whether success or defeat shall be our particular lot, we are comforted with the firm belief the cause in which we are embarked and the best feelings of the church enlisted, will finally triumph, – the heathen will be converted, and to the praise of divine grace, it shall be everywhere known that there is a God in Zion who hears united prayer. (Thaddeus Journal)

Feb. 7th. After having been shut below deck eight or nine days, we have, this morn, enjoyed a little time out. You can hardly conceive how pleasant it is to us.
The cold is yet piercing, but we can step, without expecting to be drenched by an usurping wave. My system of exercise, you will perceive, has been broken in upon, but I have been able to observe my hours of study, with the exception of one day. I have been out, every morning, for a moment or two. But you would almost wonder how I could be. Still, we have, through these days, been wafted on our way with speed; a circumstance particularly noticable, as, had we not been at the Cape just when we were, but two or three days later, these very winds which now drive us so rapidly, would, in that case, have dashed up against the rude coasts, or kept us standing off to the South, we know not how long. So conspicuous are our mercies! 9 o’clock. This evening have I felt more as I used to when the subject of Missions was brought to my thoughts, than I have since I embarked. An hour or two has been spent in observance of the Monthly Concert, a little season in which I think I have felt that the advancement of Christ’s kingdom was an object which weighed down every personal consideration. There have been times within the few past years, when I have found it good to seek my closet and ask GOD to send me to the heathen:—to-night I feel that I would bless his name that He has brought me thus far on my way to them; ‘tho it be to suffer, yea, I think, to die. Gracious Saviour, thou knowest. Divine Intercessor, intercede for me as thou didst for Peter, that my faith fail not. 0, let me not, like him, deny Thee, tho the cross be in view—suffer me not in my heart, or by my life, to say, I know thee not I But, 0, if, my wicked heart should cause my feet to slide, wilt thou not turn and look upon me, till my soul, like his, melt with godly contrition! (Sybil Bingham)

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