Following the Treaty of Reciprocity (1875) between the US and the Kingdom of Hawai‘i (that eliminated the major trade barrier to Hawai‘i’s closest and major market), sugar cultivation exploded on the Big Island.
As a means to transport sugar and other goods, on March 28, 1899, Dillingham received a charter to build the original eight miles of the Hilo Railroad that connected the Olaʻa sugar mill to Waiākea, that was soon to become the location of Hilo’s deep water port.
Rail line extensions continued. Extensions were soon built to Pāhoa, where the Pahoa Lumber Company was manufacturing ʻōhia and koa railroad ties for export to the Santa Fe Railroad.
All the sugar grown in East Hawaiʻi, in Puna and on the Hāmākua Coast, was transported by rail to Hilo Harbor, where it was loaded onto ships bound for the continent.
An early account stated that the rail line crossed over 12,000 feet in bridges, 211 water openings under the tracks, and individual steel spans up to 1,006 feet long and 230 feet in height.
Some of the most notable were those over Maulua and Honoliʻi gulches, the Wailuku River and Laupāhoehoe.
Over 3,100 feet of tunnels were constructed, one of which, the Maulua Tunnel (built in 1912), was over half a mile in length. This historic tunnel once opened to a 144 ft. high steel trestle that was 1,006 ft. in length.
While the main business of the railroad remained the transport of raw sugar and other products to and from the mills, it also provided passenger service.
Between 1909 and 1913, the Hāmākua Division of the railroad was constructed to service the sugar mills north of Hilo. Unfortunately, the cost of building the Hāmākua extension essentially destroyed the Hilo Railroad, which was sold in 1916 and reorganized as the Hawaiʻi Consolidated Railway.
Targeting tourists to augment local passenger and raw sugar transport, the Hawaiʻi Consolidated Railway ran sightseeing specials under the name “Scenic Express.”
Passengers were treated to spectacular views of the rugged Hamakua Coast, pounding surf, massive cliffs, plunging waterfalls, and wild and tangled tropical vegetation.
Not for the faint of heart, these trips included a stop on the trestles, where passengers disembarked to admire the outstanding scenery.
Then, an accident … “According to information from passengers, the observation train had just passed through the long tunnel at the approach of Maulua gulch trestle at 10:30 am, and had come to a stop on the high steel structure to allow the passengers to enjoy the view from that point.”
“As the observation train stood still the regular passenger train following came out of the tunnel. The brakes of the oncoming locomotive failed to hold well enough to stop the train from coming into collision.”
“The accident occurred about 100 feet out from the tunnel, as both trains were headed towards Paauilo. The derailed rear truck of the excursion train was thrown about one foot off the rails, it Is said.” (HTH, Oct 22, 1924)
“‘We all feel that we had a miraculous escape,’ a member of the excursion said in commenting on yesterday’s accident. ‘Although a near tragedy, the accident has put a different atmosphere into the party.”
“You might say that we feel awed. In that short moment yesterday morning families were drawn closer together and we have forgotten the little things that irritated us.’”
“Very soon after the accident everyone had himself well in hand, husbands were particularly attentive to wives, and a gentleman of the party went about administering ‘oxygen’ from the bulb of his kodak to those who were feeling faint.” (HTH (Oct 23, 1924)
A few remnants of the railway are still visible. Hawaiʻi Consolidated’s yards were in the Waiākea district of Hilo, where the roundhouse still stands today, next to the county swimming pool on Kalanikoa Street.
In Laupāhoehoe, a concrete platform remains where Hula dancers once performed for tourists. And the Laupāhoehoe Train Museum is housed in the former home of Mr. Stanley, the superintendent of maintenance.
Today, the Laupāhoehoe Train Museum and Visitors Center keeps the memory of Hawaiʻi Consolidated Railway alive. The admission fee is $10 for adults, Kamaaina $8, and $5 students. Special rates for tours are also offered.
The museum is typically open 10 am to 2 pm Monday – Saturday. Other days open by appointment. (Hours sometimes change based on available volunteers.) The address is 36-2377 Māmalahoa Highway, Laupāhoehoe, Hawaiʻi 96764. (Lots of information here for Laupāhoehoe Train Museum and Ian Birnie.)
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