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July 31, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Land Sampans

A shortage of laborers to work in the growing (in size and number) sugar plantations became a challenge.  The only answer was imported labor.

Starting in the 1850s, when the Hawaiian Legislature passed “An Act for the Governance of Masters and Servants,” a section of which provided the legal basis for contract-labor system, labor shortages were eased by bringing in contract workers from Asia, Europe and North America.

The first 943-government-sponsored, Kanyaku Imin, Japanese immigrants to Hawaiʻi arrived in Honolulu aboard the Pacific Mail Steamship Company City of Tokio on February 8, 1885.  Subsequent government approval was given for a second set of 930-immigrants who arrived in Hawaii on June 17, 1885.

With the Japanese government satisfied with treatment of the immigrants, a formal immigration treaty was concluded between Hawaiʻi and Japan on January 28, 1886. The treaty stipulated that the Hawaiʻi government would be held responsible for employers’ treatment of Japanese immigrants.

Iwaji Minato “was among 1,500 contract laborers who came to Hakalau from Japan on the Niikemaru … he was employed at Hakalau Plantation as a day laborer.”

“As soon as his three-year contract expired, Minato bought a mule and began his transportation career.  For the first two years he was his own boss, but later he worked under Jack Wilson of the Volcano Stables as mail carrier on the Hilo-Hakalau route.” “Minato was a mule-driver …  carrying passengers and express on his carriage between Hilo and Hakalau.”

“This he continued for 16 years until he acquired the new conspicuous bus in 1913. ‘My license number 161,’ said Minato smilingly. ‘Me first man in Hilo get license.  Plenty me drive before, but no more license.’” (Hawaii Tribune Herald, July 24, 1932) “Minato’s bus became the oldest ‘Land Sampan’ or cruising bus in Hilo.” (Warshauer)

“Traveling at a rate of 70 miles per day for the last 19 years, and not missing a day, is a record of Iwaji Minato, owner of Hilo’s oldest ‘sampan,’ or cruising bus. … In 1913 Minato bought this relic for $500.  It was then a shiny second hand Ford, the envy of all his comrades,”

“Today, in that same car, which has traveled more than 485,000 miles. He makes seven trips a day to and fro between Hilo and Hakalau.”

“Young and old patronize his bus, regardless of its nondescript air and old-fashioned rear entrance. When anyone teases him about his keeping the old sampan and suggests a new one he shakes his head negatively and thereby ends the conversation.” (Hawaii Tribune Herald, July 24, 1932)

“‘What’s a Sampan?’ … ‘It’s one of those taxi-cabs that looks like a bathtub gone wrong.’ … ‘You’re nuts. It’s a boat. Say, guys, this mug thinks a Sampan is a taxi-cab!’”

“Well, an argument started and the air was full of sneers and jeers, and somewhat confused nautical terms.  But it just so happens that, here in the islands. They both are right, for a Sampan is either of two things: a taxi-cab or a boat.”

“The land Sampan was originated here in the islands some years ago and is seen nowhere else. Looking, indeed, like bathtubs with a cover and wheels, they’ll take you almost anywhere you want to go – on land.”

“The seagoing Sampan is something else again. In peace time, they were just plain fishing boats, but since the war began, they have been taken over by the Navy and are used for in-shore patrol duty.” (Hawaii Tribune Herald, May 16, 1942)

“The sampan was born in the blacksmith shops of Hilo to meet the city’s need for mass transportation. Turning a Ford Model T or Model A sedan or coupe [and then subsequent car makes and models] into a bus that could carry 10 or more passengers entailed removing the body aft the cowl and building a longer, open body with bench seats along the sides.” (Lee)

“One of the few oldtime blacksmiths still plying his unique trade, Teiji Kamimura of the Kamimura Blacksmith Shop, 864 Kilauea Avenue, recalls that the very first sampan built in Hilo was at the old Von Hamm Young Co. by a first class carpenter named Miwa. He recalls that incident back in 1922 since he did all of the blacksmith work for it.”

“Some of the pioneers in the sampan construction business (sampan busses are unique to Hilo) were Shigeyoshi Kamada of the Kamada Blacksmith Shop, Hisagoro and Akira Yasukawa – Yasukawa Blacksmith Shop, Otomatsu Enseki – Enseki Blacksmith Shop, Toshio Aramori, and few others.”

“One of the first sampan operators was Fukumatsu Kusumoto.  [He] recalls that it took them three months to construct the first bus … when he started his own business”.

“Almost all of the sampan operators in the early 1920s to 1935 were Japanese. Since then others and especially Filipinos got into the business. … Yasukawa and Aramori used to construct one sampan a month.”  (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Feb 29, 1976)

“‘Sampan’ was the name previously given to small, flat-bottomed boats that provide personal transportation in the harbors and along the coasts of Southeast Asia. Since Japanese and Filipino residents of Hilo were the first to use similar construction techniques to convert motor vehicles to ferry passengers around the city, they also adopted the sampan name.” (Lee)

“Some of the early bus operators who were first to pioneer Hilo’s sampans included … Minato who used to service passengers up to Hakalau from Hilo, Dosaku Chonan, Taigeki Tamane Kuba, and many others in Hilo.”

“[B]ack in the early 1920s the bus fare from the then Waiakea Town to Hilo railroad depot formerly located makai of present Koehnen’s in downtown Hilo was just 5 cents.” This led to them being referred to as the “five cents” busses.

“During the heyday of the busses – 1930 to 1941, there were approximately 200 sampans in operation giving door to door services.”  (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Feb 29, 1976)

“By the 1930s, sampan buses formed the backbone of the island’s early transit system, with some two hundred in operation. “Hilo’s motor transportation facilities are generally conceded to be unsurpassed in the islands, both in cheapness and in service,” the Honolulu Star-Bulletin declared three years later.”  (Hana Hou)

Several associations were formed including Hilo Bus, Union Bus, Aloha Bus and Hawaii Bus.  It was viewed as a “cut-throat” business (there was a price war in 1936 when there was “dissatisfaction and strained feelings among the local sampan bus drivers over the appearance of the Red Checker Bus Service, which is operating eight busses at a lower rate that the prevalent bus charges.”  (HTH July 20, 1936)

In 1938, bus tariffs were arbitrated through the Hilo Chamber of Commerce and the agreed upon price schedule was tacked on the busses and drivers signed an agreement that they would abide by the new prices. (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Mar 30, 1938)

“But soon the personal vehicle was on the rise. Demand dwindled. By 1969, only a dozen drivers were left in Hilo. Six years later, the county council wanted safer alternatives.”

“Buses with the long, familiar boxy shape were rolling out, but one reluctant councilman deplored their look, calling for an option ‘other than one with a distinctive Mainland flavor.’ In December 1975, the county bought out the last five sampan drivers in Hilo.” (Hana Hou)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Hilo Sampan, Land Sampan, Taxi, Iwaji Minato, Fukumatsu Kusumoto, Hawaii, Hilo

July 19, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Four Miles

Nā pana keia ō Keaukaha
Mai Ka Palekai ā I Leleiwi
P`̄ mau I ka meheu ā nā Kūpuna …

Au aʻe ʻoe e pa mokumoku
ʻO Peiwe pili me Lokowaka
Kapaʻia o Kealoha Paka, Mile Eha

These are the famous places of Keaukaha
From the Breakwater all the way to Leleiwi,
Resounding to the footsteps of our ancestor …

You walk along the seashore and see the islets.
This is Peiwe, close to Lokowaka
Called today ‘Kealoha Park’ and ‘4-Miles’

(Edith Kanaka’ole; translation Kalani Meinecke; noted in Downey)

The shoreline lands of the Waiakea peninsula and Keaukaha contain fourteen fishponds, the largest of which is Lokowaka (at 60 acres in area), located directly across Kalaniana’ole Ave from a beach park.  (John Clark)

Then, a tsunami hit the area … “In 1946, there was no tsunami warning system. In Hawaii, no one saw or felt anything that presaged the coming disaster. The tsunami was caused by a M8.6 earthquake centered in the Aleutian Islands more than 2,300 miles from Hilo. Needless to say, no one in Hawaii felt the shaking.”

“There were seismographs in 1946. The University of California at Berkeley had a network in Northern and Central California, including a station in Ferndale. Caltech had stations that covered the southern part of the State.”

“There were instruments elsewhere in the world including a pair in Hawaii, but earthquake investigations of that era relied on analyzing data after the event. It was often weeks until magnitude and location had been hammered down.”

“The 1946 tsunami killed 96 in Hilo, 158 throughout the Hawaiian Islands, five in Alaska, one in Santa Cruz and three elsewhere in the Pacific.”  (Dengler, Times Standard)

During the tsunami of 1946 … “in the Keaukaha area east of Hilo, witnesses described the arrival of a wave from the north simultaneously with one from the northeast, which built up a very high crest at the place of juncture.” (Macdonald etal)

“A drive along the Keaukaha coast beyond Hilo today will leave you with a terribly depressed feeling. The tidal wave of April 1 in a few short minutes wiped the shoreline bare of once swanky homes and destroyed hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of property.”

“As soon las the road was repaired sufficiently to make the trip, Lorrin Thurston and your correspondent drove out with Police Lieutenant De Mello to view the damage. What was once the show place of the district was the home of the Wendell Carlsmiths.”

“Today nothing remains but the chimney of the house and the tennis court. Redwood beams from the house have been found miles away down the coast.  Attorney Carlsmith was viewing his loss as we drove by. He told of the miraculous escape of himself and his family.”

“‘When I built this home,’ [Carlsmith] said, ‘I had a possible tidal wave in mind and constructed the foundation accordingly.  As you can see it is 11 feet above sea level and I figured any wave coming in this far (the home was about 200 yards from the coastline) would not be above the level of this foundation.’”

“‘On the morning of the fatal wave I happened to look out my bedroom window and saw the first one coming.  It wasn’t very big but it must have been traveling in about 40 miles an hour.’”

“‘I grabbed a robe and put it on and then ran down and released one of our dogs. Mrs Carlsmith in the meantime got the children out and into the car. I ran around the house with the water lapping at my heels. The dog refused to follow and that’s the last I saw of her.’”

“‘I dashed up the steps and into the garage and we started the car out. We got down as far as the tennis court and saw the water receding. We then walked back to see if any damage had been done.’”

“‘While we were examining the premises,  we saw another wave coming and ran back to the tennis court. This wave was higher and washed up over the foundation of the house and into the pond in front but didn’t come up to the tennis court. We made our way then to the Laura Kennedy home which is on high ground and from there saw another wave coming from an opposite direction.’”

“‘This wave collided with another wave rolling in a different direction causing a huge water spout and then both of them rolled in over our house and across the highway. An old Japanese who had climbed a coconut palm when the first wave came had gotten down on the ground. He tried to shinny up again and was about 15 feet up the tree when the big wave got him. He disappeared.’”

“‘When the wave subsided, we could not see anything of our house except the naked chimney. There wasn’t even a stick of furniture. I lost the collection of a lifetime. And as you can see the grounds have been completely destroyed.’”

“‘Several thousand yards of dirt l had had hauled in have been washed completely away. I also have a valuable stock of liquor and wines and most of this is being salvaged. It had washed into the pond in front of the house. The children are digging it out now.’” (Advertiser, Coll; April 9, 1946)

Then, again … on May 22, 1960, a 9.5 earthquake – the largest ever recorded – hit southwest Chile, generating a tsunami that struck the Hawaiian Island in about 15 hours.

Hilo Bay area on island of Hawai‘i was hit hard by the 35-foot wave, which destroyed or damaged more than 500 homes and businesses. Sixty-one people died. Damage was estimated at $75 million.

In the vicinity of the Carlsmith property was a beach park; with several additions, the park properties in this area fell under different names. In 1963, Leleiwi Beach Park was renamed James Kealoha Beach Park, in honor of the former County Chairman who became Hawai‘i’s first elected Lieutenant Governor.

In 1972, Hawai‘i County Council adopted resolutions to acquire property for park expansion.  Part of that package was the 1.92-acre ‘Carlsmith’ property. By that time Carlsmith had sold and San Francisco financier owned it and was planning an 8-story condominium. (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Jan 14, 1972)

By the end of the year the County had acquired the ‘Carlsmith’ (~2-acres) and ‘Richardson’ (~1-acre) properties for $2.42-million; the Parks Director, Robert Fukuda, said the additional acquisitions “would greatly enhance our program for providing recreational and regional park facilities in the Keaukaha area.” (HTH, Nov 12, 1972)

The park area makai of Lokowaka became known as Carlsmith Beach Park (in and around the Leleiwi/James Kealoha parks).  More informally, it is known as Four Miles – it’s four miles away from downtown Hilo. Richardson’s Beach Park is just down the way.

An interesting side note, Carl and Nelle Smith, married in Atlantic, Iowa, left aboard the ‘Martha Davis’ from San Francisco and arrived in the Islands on December 27, 1897; Carl was 27 and his new bride was 26.

In Hilo he was associated in the practice of law with various partners, including DH Hitchcock (father of artist D Howard Hitchcock) and Charles F Parsons. In 1911, Carl sought to change his name.

Notices for “the Matter of the Petition of Carl Schurz Smith for Change of Name” were published in the newspaper Dec. 12, 19, 26 (1911), Jan. 2, 12 (1912).  Those notices stated that Governor Walter F Frear “ordered and decreed that the name of Carl Schurz Smith hereby is changed to Carl Schurz Carlsmith”. (Hawaiian Star, December 19, 1911)

Carlsmith inherited the firm upon Hitchcock’s death in 1890. The firm was renamed to Carlsmith in 1911; his two sons Wendell and Merrill joining him in 1920, and his grandson, Donn, joined the staff in 1953. The Carlsmith law firm has had several names; it is now named Carlsmith Ball LLP.

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: General, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, Hilo, Keaukaha, Four Miles, Carlsmith

May 23, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Camp Sague

The Spanish-American War was a conflict in 1898 between Spain and the United States, effectively the result of American intervention in the ongoing Cuban War of Independence.

Back then, Spain had interests in the Pacific, particularly in the Guam and Philippines.  Although the main issue was Cuban independence, the ten-week war was fought in both the Caribbean and the Pacific.

At the time, there was no assigned garrison in the Islands until August 15, 1898, when the 1st New York Volunteer Infantry regiment and the 3rd Battalion, 2nd US Volunteer Engineers landed in Honolulu for garrison duty.  They setup camp (‘Camp McKinley’) at Kapiʻolani Park.

Later (November 8, 1898,) approximately 200-soldiers of the 1st New York sailed from Honolulu to Hilo to inspect sites for a possible permanent military post. (Greguras)  The troops landed at Waiākea in Hilo and stayed in a large warehouse for one night.

“The mariners under Christopher Columbus were no more anxious and certainly no happier to set foot on land in 1492 than were the New York Volunteer troops which left Honolulu last Tuesday morning on the Kinau, to feel the terra firma of Hilo under them this morning.”

“To say that the trip over was rough is putting it mild. In fact, judging from the number of men who cast their bread upon the (rough) waters, it could not have been worse. After leaving Diamond Head shoal the Kinau tossed, rolled and pitched so heavily that at times many of the men made frantic efforts to reach life preservers.”

“Miss Anna Rose, who was a passenger on board the steamer won the hearts of all the boys by her kindly interest and solicitation in their welfare. She cheered and comforted the sick, brought them little delicacies and in diverse other ways did she make herself the most popular person on board.”

“In appreciation of her service the band serenaded Miss Rose a number of times. She was also voted unanimously the queen of the First New York Volunteers.”  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, November 14, 1898)

A highlight of their visit was a hike to Kilauea volcano.  “The march to the Volcano was begun at noon on Monday last. There was a heavy downfall of rain, but the boys kept up their spirits.”

“A halt for lunch was made eight miles from Hilo, and camp for the night was then made at Kilohana at 3:30 o’clock in the afternoon. Shelter for the night was found in Mr Lee’s barn and in the church.”

“The march next day was resumed, at 10 o’clock. A halt was made at Mountain View hotel, where Mr Hambly entertained the boys at lunch. All the way the boys were the recipients of hospitality and greetings. Mrs. Trowbridge served sandwiches as the troops marched passed her house.”

“Tuesday night was spent at Wailiʻili the home of Mr. Hitchcock. Eight miles beyond, the Volcano house was reached, and here hot lunch was served by Mr. Waldron, and a mile and a half beyond shelter tents were pitched and the men went into camp.”

“The Volcano house has been thrown open to the boys during their stay and the band has given several concerts. Friday morning the entire command went, to the Volcano.”   (Hawaiian Star, November 21, 1898)

The camp which the soldiers established at the Volcano was named Major Sague Camp.  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, November 21, 1898)  Sague of the 1st New York was in command of the detachment. The troops were in this camp for only three days, returning to Honolulu on December 5th.

A November 24, 1898 letter from a member of Company I of the 1st N.Y. indicates the camp was near the crater of the volcano, about two miles from the Volcano House “in a large (koa) grove with lots of dead wood on the ground.”  (Stenzel)

Back in Hilo, “A very interesting affair was the raising of the flag at Riverside Park, formerly known as Reed’s Island, on Thursday. Mr. Pratt had arranged the matter almost extemporaneously, which made the whole occasion perhaps more enjoyable than if it had been a formal and long prearranged ceremony.”

“The commanding  officers of this portion of the 1st New York Volunteers, kindly asented to give a military air to the flag raising by the presence of the troops and regimental band, while Queen Anna graciously consented to hoist the American emblem.”

“The troops marched up Waiānuenue street about 2:30, seized the ravine which bounds that side of Reed’s Island without opposition and scaled the opposite cliffs, preceeded by the Queen who proved her physical powers again. The flag was hoisted to the music of the ‘Star Spangled Banner’.”

“A large crowd of townspeople viewed the ceremonies from the Island and from the opposite banks. The day was one of the most perfect which even Hilo affords the occasion was one of great interest to the Hiloites.”  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, November 15, 1898)

Another important event was the Thanksgiving luau; “the New York soldiers at Hilo were given a big Thanksgiving luau by Mr and Mrs CC Kennedy at the big sugar plantation in Waiakea.”

“The tables were arranged in the big sugar room of the mill, which had been elaborately decorated with palms, flowers and flags.  Instead of table cloths the food stuffs, prepared, cooked and served in Hawaiian style, were placed upon ti leaves, which literally covered the tables.”

“The services of all the young ladles in the city were engaged to wait on the soldiers, while to the married ladles fell the responsibility of arranging the tables for the feast.”

“At each plate – wooden – was a handsomely printed souvenir menu of what comprised the feast. The delicacies placed before the boys to eat, as printed on the menu, were: fish, from the Waiākea ponds; Taro; Pig, wrapped in ti leaves; Sweet Potatoes; Breadfruit; Beef, wrapped in ti leaves; Turkey, Kukui nuts, Rolls, Taro Pudding, Hawaiian Pudding, Mince Pie, Fruits, Soda Water, Lemonade, Coffee, Poi and Cigars.”

“When all had eaten until they could eat no more the tables were cleared away, the floor prepared for dancing and this was the order of the afternoon. For the dancing the military band furnished the music, while the music for the evening dance, in the same place, was furnished by the Wela Ka Hao orchestra.”

“Returning to camp the men were loud in their praises for Mr and Mrs Kennedy and all the good people who assisted In trying to make the Thanksgiving day feast a most pleasant event.”  (Hawaiian Gazette, November 29, 1898)

In the end, Sague, in expressing his appreciation on behalf of all soldiers, noted, “Hilo is all right. When we were in San Francisco the boys had a continual round of feeding.”

“Let me say on behalf of this detachment of the First New York Volunteers that since passing out of the Golden Gate, Hilo is the only place where they have felt at home. It is the only place they have been where cordiality has been expressed by word and deed.”

“The boys will remember it and in the 600 to 800 letters which leave the camp and go to the relatives and friends in the Empire State the praises of Hilo and Hilo people will be sung. On behalf of the boys who are here let me thank you all for your generous treatment.”  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, November 21, 1898)

Following the war, Sague returned home to Poughkeepsie, NY and in 1906 was elected Mayor of the city, “whose administration has stimulated Poughkeepsie to the attitude of a wide awake American city.”  (Vassar Miscellany, February 1, 1912)

On April 5, 1905, Major John K Sague Camp, United Spanish War Veterans, was organized in Poughkeepsie; Sague served as its first commander. (Poughkeepsie New Yorker, July 7, 1941)  (Greguras)

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Filed Under: Military Tagged With: Camp McKinley, John K Sague, Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Hilo, Volcano, Volcano House, Camp Sague

May 17, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

“Hawaiʻi has a Federal Building – Hilo Got It.”

Postal services in Hilo commenced in 1858. However, when the Hawaiian Islands became a territory of the US in 1900, officials determined that both postal and court facilities should be expanded to better serve the citizens. (GSA)

Likewise, a need was expressed in governmental correspondence for new federal and Territorial offices. Successive early Territorial governors agreed that a new federal office building should be constructed in Hilo. (NPS)

“A block was set aside in Hilo for public building purposes. Governor Frear recommended that it be cut in two, one half for federal purposes and the other half for territorial purposes.”

“Congress accented this proposal on condition that the government sell all the building then on the properties and devote the proceeds to building roads around and through the property as divided.” (Hawaiian Gazette, November 12, 1912)

New York architect Henry Whitfield designed the new building in 1915. Whitfield, who was Andrew Carnegie’s brother-in-law, had just completed the design for the Honolulu Carnegie Library. Whitfield designed the building in the Mediterranean Renaissance Revival style, which blends traditional classical architecture with features more suited to a tropical climate. (GSA)

“…the contract for the erection of the Hilo federal building had been let to the Campbell Construction Company of Salt Lake City at its bid of $185,522”. (Honolulu Star-Bulletin, April 10, 1914)

“Twenty-five per cent of the Hilo federal building is completed. One-fourth of the structure is finished; three-fourths more has to be done before the structure can be handed over to the eager public.”

“This good news will probably cause a stir or surprise in Honolulu, where they are still fighting and squabbling over the site for their federal building.”

“Hilo knew what she wanted some years ago and she has what she wants right now in the shape of a rapidly growing, federal building.” (Honolulu Star-Bulletin, November 8, 1917)

“’There have been delays, sure, but we fully expect to have the Hilo federal building finished and ready for a house warming by November 1,’ declared Mr Campbell, who represents the mainland contractors who secured the big job a couple of years ago.”

“’I would suggest Thanksgiving Day as the one to celebrate on, and I hope the contractor will have something to be thankful about when the job is pau that is the right word, isn’t it for all through.’”

“The federal building job has been delayed from time to time by the usual red tape and pass-it-along stunts of the Washington authorities. … The first Intention was to have a house warming about Christmas time, but there is now no need to wait until then.” (Honolulu Star-Bulletin, May 17, 1916)

The building was one of the first in Hawaiʻi constructed using reinforced concrete, a technology that was common on the mainland. Construction was completed and the building occupied in 1917.

It originally functioned as a courthouse, post office and custom house. Other tenants included the Immigration Bureau, Agricultural Extension Service, Weather Bureau and Internal Revenue Service. (GSA)

The original portion of the building was a rectangular structure with a portico on the main (south) side and a projecting wing on the north side.

The original portion has a full basement, a raised first floor two stories in height which contained the post office, a second floor one story in height which contained the court functions, and a fourth-story clerestory with windows above the original courtroom. (NPS)

By the 1930s, tenants required more space and two wings were added to the building between 1936 and 1938. Louis A Simon, supervising architect of the US Treasury, designed the wings in a style compatible with that of the original building.

The three stories of the additions correspond to the first, mezzanine and third floors of the original building. The result was a U-shaped building with a deep front courtyard overlooked by open verandas on three sides.

The clerestory, or band of windows, admits light into the interior of the third story; there are five skylights on the building, including one on the penthouse roof, that also serve to illuminate the interior.

It still houses federal agencies, although the main US Post Office was moved to a new building near the local airport in 1978, leaving a branch operation in its place. The Third Circuit Court vacated its courtroom and ancillary facilities on the third floor in 1979.

On Memorial Day in 1922, the American Legion planted 17 royal palms along Kekaulike Street to commemorate Hawaiian citizens who died in World War I. (GSA)

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Federal Building, US Post Office Hilo
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Filed Under: Buildings, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Hilo, Post Office, Federal Building

March 21, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kaipalaoa

Ka niu peʻahi kanaka o Kaipalaoa.
The man-beckoning coco palms of Kaipalaoa.

(The swaying palms that once grew at Kaipalaoa, Hilo, seemed to wave an invitation. ʻŌlelo Noʻeau #1502)

Hilo is likely to have been one of the first Polynesian settlement areas on Hawai‘i Island; oral history and local legend indicate that Polynesians first settled Hilo Harbor around 1100 AD.

Early accounts of Hilo Bay describe a long black sand beach stretching along present day Bay Front from the Wailuku River to the Wailoa River.

Many heiau (temples) attested to the prosperity of Hilo. Kaipalaoa (Sea Whale) Heiau sat on the southern banks. The village at Kaipalaoa was a major trade center, where people from the northern districts met the people of the southern portions of Hilo and Puna.

Kamehameha was familiar with the Hilo district from his youth. Kaipalaoa, across the Wailuku River from Pu`u`eo was a favorite surfing area, and at least eight excellent breaks could be found from Pu‘u‘eo to Waiākea. (Yuen)

Kamehameha I began a war of conquest, winning his first major skirmish in the battle of Mokuʻōhai (a fight between Kamehameha and Kiwalaʻo in July, 1782 at Keʻei, south of Kealakekua Bay on the Island of Hawaiʻi.)  Kiwalaʻo was killed.

Captain George Vancouver, an early European explorer who met with Kamehameha at Hilo Bay in 1794, recorded that Kamehameha was there preparing for his invasion of the neighbor islands, and that Hilo was an important center because his canoes were being built there.

Desha wrote that “It is thought that there were as many as seven mano [twenty eight thousand] people who gathered at the shore at Kaipalaoa when the ali‘i landed”. The people of Hilo had long prepared for Kamehameha’s arrival and collected a large number of hogs and a variety of plant foods, to feed the ruler and his warriors.

Kelly surmised that the people of Hilo had actually prepared for a year prior to Kamehameha’s visit and expanded their fields into the open lands behind Hilo to accommodate the increased number of people that would be present.

Kelly also speculated that many of the fishponds in Waiākea were created to feed Kamehameha, his chiefs, and craftsmen. The area at Hilo Bay that housed Kamehameha’s canoe fleets continues to be the site of canoeing, both recreational and competitive. (Rechtman)

By 1795, having fought his last major battle at Nuʻuanu on O‘ahu with his superior use of modern weapons and western advisors, he subdued all other chiefdoms (with the exception of Kauai).

However, after a short time, another chief entered into a power dispute with Kamehameha; his name was Nāmakehā (the brother of Kaʻiana, a chief of Kauai who had been killed in the Battle of Nuʻuanu.)

Previously, Kamehameha asked Nāmakehā (who lived in Kaʻū, Hawai‘i) for help in fighting Kalanikūpule and his Maui forces on O‘ahu, but Nāmakehā ignored the request.

Kamehameha, on Oʻahu at the time, returned to his home island of Hawaiʻi with the bulk of his army to suppress the rebellion.  The battle took place at Kaipalaoa, Hilo.  Kamehameha defeated Nāmakehā. 

This was the final battle fought by Kamehameha to unite the archipelago.  (Kamehameha negotiated a settlement with King Kaumualiʻi for the control of Kauai and Niʻihau, in 1810.)

Although Kamehameha’s warriors had won the battle over Nāmakehā, they then turned their rage upon the villages and families of the vanquished. It was about the same time and place of the Nāmakehā Rebellion that Kamehameha decreed Ke Kānāwai Māmalahoe (The Law of the Splintered Paddle.)

When Liholiho was born at Hilo in November 1797, he was immediately taken from his mother and given to the guardianship of Kaahumanu. (Sinclair)  The first-born child of Keōpūolani and Kamehameha, his piko was ceremonially cut at Kaipalaoa, at the heiau of the same name. (Correa)

Stokes included descriptions of Kaipalaoa heiau as: “Probably located just west of Isabelle Point. The native name of this point is Kaipalaoa”. (Scheffel)

Kaipalaoa Point is now known as Cocoanut Point. “The native name of [Isabelle Point] is Kaipalaoa.” (Stokes) Isabel and Kaipalaoa points are separated by only about three hundred feet. (Hawaiian Place Names)

“The site of Kai-palaoa Heiau was on the land of Kai-palaoa, and lay just seaward, and a little toward Wai-anuenue St, from the site of the Hilo Armory at the upper end of the short street from the shore to Ke-awe St, and on the side toward the river a little below the bridge to Pu-u-eo, near the Library.”

“The Armory site was formerly occupied by the royal residence of King Ka-mehameha I, which was named Ka-hale-‘ilio-‘ole – The House Without Rats (or, commoners).” (Kekahuna)

Kaipalaoa heiau is “Near armory site, Hilo; of pookanaka class; the heiau at which Umi’s life was threatened, and the place where Kamehameha is said to have proclaimed his Māmalahoe law (Law of the Splintered Paddle). Destroyed in the time of Kuakini’s governorship of Hawaii.”  (Hawaiian Place Names)

Between 1863 and 1890 a landing wharf and US Coast Guard lighthouse were built at the foot of Waiānuenue Avenue. Passengers and freight were transported to steamers anchored in the bay. (HHF & Cultural Surveys)

By 1870, three heiau in Hilo – Kaipalaoa, Kanowa/Kanoa, and Honokawailani – were described as already being “ruins”. Lydgate describes the Hilo bay front area as it looked in 1873:

“The sea at that time came right up to the bank edge of Front street, so that in heavy weather the spray blew more or less up into the street. Along Front street tall coconut trees of great age towered up over the street.”

“From the foot of Church street extending along the beach it was open country, with the exception of one Hawaiian home, one canoe-builder’s workshop – or halau, as it is called by the Hawaiians – and a tumbled down little blacksmith shop some distance farther on.” (Hawaii County)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Hilo, Keopuolani, Namakeha, Kanawai Mamalahoe, Liholiho, Kamehameha, Kaipalaoa

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