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August 7, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 078 – January 8, 1820

January 8, 1820 – no entry. (Thaddeus Journal)

Saturday eve, Jan. 8th.
“The storm is laid—the winds retire
Obedient to thy will.
The sea which roared at thy command,
At thy command, is still.”
To-day I have felt the force of these words. O, to hail this peaceful sabbath, as our gracious GOD invites! (Sybil Bingham)

January 8, 1820. Had a most tremendous gale which came on, on the evening of the 2d, and continued to blow until the 6th, without intermission. We had never before learned what poor sailors have to suffer. The sea at this time was in terrific uproar; one moment we seemed as it were on the pinnacle of a lofty mountain, the next, plunged into a deep valley. I need not tell you that during this sudden transition it was as much as we could do to take care of ourselves-not un frequently our persons, and furniture were tumbled together into one end of the cabin, and before we had time to recover, would be sent back again, sometimes with a bowl of broth or a dish of coffee in our hands. But this all helps to make up in variety, and is one of the comforts of a sea-voyage. (Lucia Ruggles Holman)

Sat. Jan. 8th, 1820. This week has been marked, with circumstances which, I trust will not soon be forgotten by any of us. It has indeed been a season of affliction and trial, such as we have never before seen. Mrs. R. has been considerably ill, and my health tho’ feeble ever since I left A. has been unusually so the week past. On tuesday morning last very early we were awaked from sleep by the cry “all hands on deck”. A heavy gale from the S. W. had come upon us unawares: our sails were all spread and we were going at the rate of % knots an hour, when the first gust of wind shattered one of the sheets, and split a number of others so as to considerably injure them. The winds continued to blow with much force all day and night; by this time the sea was all in commotion the gale still increasing, took down every sail and lay to with bare poles entirely at the mercy of the waves, or more properly at the mercy of him who holds them in his fists and is able to control them at his pleasure. The seas run in mountains one moment we were tossed as it were upon the top of a lofty mountain; the next, plunged into a deep vally with a mountain on each side of us. It seems indeed as if the old. Atlantic was torn up from its lowest bottom. We were obliged to keep close in our rooms, and most of us in our births for the deck was frequently several feet under water, and often a wave would force its way down the companion and hatchway and drench all before it. Not less than 8 or 10 plank were beat off the side of the brig by the dashing of the waves. At one time Capt. B. was knocked down by a heavy sea and thrown from one side of the Thaddeus to the other, severely bruised and narrowly escaped, being swept overboard. Thus it continued a dreadful time until thursday night when the wind changed and the storm abated. It was remarkable to see the composure of all the family: every countenance was cheerful; every mind appeared calm and tranquil. All seemed happy in casting themselves on the arm of the Lord and confiding in his mercy. We rejoiced that our dear mother and other friends could not then know our situation. They will bless the Lord for us, when they hear of his preserving mercy. (Samuel & Nancy Ruggles)

8. – Yesterday the storm began to abate and today we have a clone. With us all is joy and gratitude. If deliverance from the storms of God’s mercies demand our praise, what shall we render to him for deliverance from the storms of his wrath? Oh what emotions will fill the soul when the clouds which now darken our horizon shall have passed away & this frail bark shall have entered the port of heaven? (Samuel Whitney Journal)

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August 6, 2019 by Peter T Young 4 Comments

Waimānalo Sugar Plantation

High Chief John Adams Kuakini Cummins was born on Oʻahu on March 17, 1835, the son of High Chiefess Kaumakaokane Papaliʻaiʻaina and Thomas Jefferson Cummins, Jr. His mother was a cousin of King Kamehameha I. His father was a wealthy and aristocratic Englishman, born in Lancashire and reared in Massachusetts, who came to the Islands in 1828.

Thomas Cummins first acquired interests in land in Waimānalo (meaning potable water) on March 27, 1842, when High Chief Paki leased Cummins a parcel of land on which to build a house (that he named Mauna Loke, or Rose Mount)

On November 25, 1850, Cummins leased 970 acres in the same vicinity from King Kamehameha III. This property extended from Popoʻokaʻala Point to the hills of Kaʻiwa and Kaʻakaupu of the Koʻolau district. Over the years more land was acquired. In 1890, Cummins leased nearly 7,000-more acres for his sugar operation.

The land was first used as cattle pasture and horse breeding ranch. After attending the Royal School, Cummins worked on his father’s ranch, becoming manager in 1855.

One of the goals in horse breeding related to racing, an item of interest to the royalty and elite in Honolulu. Cummins had one of the largest stocks of race horses (and introduced some blooded stock to the islands) and was a promoter of horse racing. In about 1872, a horse racing track was laid out at Kapiʻolani Park. He was a Charter member of the Hawaiian Jockey Club in 1885.

John Cummins was elected representative for his Koʻolau district in 1873 and assisted in the election of King Lunalilo that same year. The following year, he aided in the election of King Kalākaua.

Cummins was instrumental, in helping King Kalākaua effect a reciprocity treaty with the United States in 1874, after which the sugar industry prospered.

Cummins conceived the idea of converting the ranch into a commercial sugar venture in 1877, two years after King Kalākaua had concluded a reciprocity treaty with the United States, greatly enhancing the sugar industry in the kingdom. Its first mill started grinding cane in January 1881.

The mill stood near Poalima Street behind present-day Shima’s Market on Kalanianaʻole Highway. Homes were on both sides of the highway. Rail tracks were laid out and three locomotive engines were brought in to haul cane to the mill and the wharf.

The sugar industry became a huge success.

The sugar plantation required more water than was easily available and a ditch was built to divert water from Maunawili Stream to Waimanalo. Two million gallons of water per day was pumped through a 2-mile long tunnel through Mount Olomana and into a reservoir where it was tapped to Waimanalo Sugar Company until the 1950s.

In the 1870s, Waimānalo Sugar Company built a 700-foot pier, Waimānalo Landing (near what is now the intersection of Huli Street and Kalaniana’ole Highway,) to use to transport the sugar, as well as serve as a landing for inter-island steamers (it was dismantled in the early 1950s.)

The railroad tracks from the mill culminated at a long wooden pier; at the end of the pier, winches and cranes lifted the bags of sugar onto the vessel alongside. Today, the line of broken pilings and all the landing’s machinery and crane and rigging, lies submerged beneath 12-15 feet of water at Waimānalo Beach Park.

The 86-foot ocean steamer “SS Waimānalo” (later renamed “SS John A. Cummins” or “Kaena”) owned by John Adams Cummins of the Waimanalo Sugar Plantation Company, made trips twice a week between stops in Koʻolaupoko (Heʻeia and Waimānalo) and Honolulu, exporting sugar and returning with supplies and goods.

Control of the plantation passed to W. G. Irwin and Co. in 1885, with Cummins continuing as manager. Cummins was ahead of the time in adopting a sort of “social welfare” plan for his employees, building a large structure containing a reading room and a section for dances and social gatherings for the plantation laborers.

It was decorated with Chinese and Japanese fans on the ceiling and pictures of King Kalākaua and other members of the royal family on the walls, and contained books, tables, an organ and singing canaries.

John Cummins left the sugar business to William G. Irwin, agent of Claus Spreckles, and developed a commercial building called the Cummins Block at Fort and Merchant streets in Downtown Honolulu.

In 1889 he represented Hawaiʻi at the Paris exposition known as Exposition Universelle. On June 17, 1890 he became Minister of Foreign Affairs in Kalākaua’s cabinet, and thus was in the House of Nobles of the legislature for the 1890 session.

He died on March 21, 1913 from influenza after a series of strokes and was buried in Oʻahu Cemetery.

Due to security concerns, an Executive Order from President Woodrow Wilson in 1917 significantly changed Waimānalo and Waimānalo Sugar Company – more than 1,500-acres belonging to the Waimānalo Sugar Company were converted to a military reservation.

In 1947, the plantation was shut down.

One lasting remnant of those plantation days is the Saint George Catholic Chapel. It is among the oldest parishes in Waimānalo. Built in 1842, it still has a sizable congregation, many of them descendants of the Portuguese and the Filipinos who worked for the sugar company.

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Waimanalo Sugar Plantation c1890s

1941_01_00 – Waimanalo sugar? SB BW photo.

Small flat cars piled high with sugarcane-(Smithsonian)

Plantation field worker hauling sugar cane up a handmade ramp onto the 4-wheel flat car-(Smithsonian)

‘Olomana’ and ‘Pokaa’ (Chloe) at work in Oahu on the Waimanalo Plantation

Locomotive ‘Thomas Cummins’ at Waimanalo

Hauling sugarcane to mill-(Smithsonian)

Engineer guiding train over temporary tracks-(Smithsonian)

Cars being hauled over temporary track-(Smithsonian)

14-1-14-38 =waimanalo plantation mill j.a.cummins photog- Kamehameha Schools Archives

John Adams Kuakini Cummins’ 80-foot steamer ‘Waimanalo’ anchored off the Waimanalo Sugar Company’s pier

Aerial_view_BellowsField_(note_sugar_cultivation)-1942

The old St George Church, ca. 1933 (StGeorgeChurchWaimanalo)

August 6, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 079 – January 9, 1820

January 9, 1820 – We have been gratified today by the exhbition of some of the works of God in the mighty deep, particularly the appearance of several whales, the first we have seen, a shark, and a multitude of porpuses. But the manifestation of divine favor to sinners, the glory of God in the face of Jesus Christ is still more interesting. This is a favored Sabbath. The comfort and aid of the Spirit seem to have been enjoyed by the covenant people of God, in good measure. The broad and benevolent design of Christ’s kingdom: the certainty of its universal prevalence, and the duty of promoting its interests were set forth in a sermon from John 10, 16 by Brother Thurston. After a tossing boistrous week the Lord of the Sabbath speaks peace to the winds and waves and peace to our souls.
Lat. S. 40. Lon. W. 50 (Thaddeus Journal)

January 9, Sabbath. A calm pleasant day. Divine service on deck- subject chosen from John’s Gospel – 10 Chap., 16 V. A most excellent Missionary sermon by Brother Thurston. (Lucia Ruggles Holman)

Jan. 9. During the gale a great number of sea-fowls were constantly flying about the vessel: of these are several kinds; the most remarkable is the Albatross resembling a goose tho’ much larger: we see great numbers of them every day. I endeavored to catch one the other morning but he broke the line and went off with the hook in his mouth.
I tried a second time and drew one almost into the boat when he tore himself away and left us. broth. 0. has just shot one & the sea being calm we were able to get it. It measures 10 feet from tip to tip. I am now writing with one of its quils which is 18 inches in length. I intend to send one to A. if possible. We see whales every day. they are often close along side and afford, us much diversion with their jumping and spouting. A very large one was seen yesterday half as long as the Thaddeus his head was covered with shell fish. – (Samuel & Nancy Ruggles)

Jan. 9. After experiencing trials and dangers (the week past) we enjoy a pleasant Sabbath. Truly our covenant God is ever mindful of us. His omnipotent arm is outstretched for our deliverance and comfort. From day to day he preserves and sustains us; blesses us with health of body and peace of mind; while we enjoyed the dear delights of friendship, and feel all those tender ties of love and affection, which unite the hearts of brother and sisters. The Lord hath done great things for us, and blessed be his name. Having called us to separate from friends and home, He has comforted us with the promise “Lo I am with you.” Enjoying his presence we shall be happy, though separated from the dearest friend on earth. We are but pilgrims and strangers, who were traveling through this world. Ere long we shall reach that end of our journey and rest in peace. But we need strong faith and confidence in God to carry us in safety on our way, – and in able us to overcome and conquer all our spiritual foes. Trusting in the Lord we will cheerfully proceed, and if permitted, engage in the great work to which he has called us. And at last, may we be so happy as to hear the welcome sentence, “Well done good and faithful servants, enter ye into the joy of your lord.” (Mercy Partridge Whitney Journal)

9. – This has been a good Sabbath to me. Felt some enlargement in prayer at our social meeting this morning. Brother T. preached this evening from the words ‘others sheep have I’ etc. I hope here-after to live a more holy life. Ardent piety in a missionary is indispensable. Several large whales came along side to day. They are hideous looking creatures, some are said to be as long as our ship. (Samuel Whitney Journal)

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August 5, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Makauwahi Cave

The Makauwahi Cave (“fear, break through”) is the small portion of the largest limestone cave found in Hawaii.

It lies on the south coast of the island of Kauai, in the Māhāʻulepū Valley close to Māhāʻulepū Beach, and is important for its paleoecological and archaeological values.

It is reached via a sinkhole and has been described as “…maybe the richest fossil site in the Hawaiian Islands, perhaps in the entire Pacific Island region”.

The pale rock ridge that houses the sinkhole started as a field of sand dunes.

Over time, rainwater seeped through the sand, converting it chemically into limestone rock.

Underground water ate away at the lower parts of the limestone, forming an extensive complex of caves, and finally one large section of cave roof collapsed, creating a feature known as a sinkhole.

The feature is as much as 100 yards long from the entrance to the most distant known cave, and as much as 40 yards wide, but it may contain other caverns whose entrances are buried.

Paleoecological and archaeological excavations of the sediment that has filled the pond in the sinkhole put its age at some 10,000 years.

More importantly, the findings show how the first humans that inhabited Kauai affected the pre-human natural environment.

It is one of only a handful of sites in the world that show such impact.

Before the first Polynesian settlers set foot on Kauai, Hawai‘i was a strange Eden, empty of mammals, reptiles, and amphibians, because none had ever made it across the vastness of the Pacific to these remote islands.

The sinkhole contains nearly 10,000-years of sedimentary record; since the discovery of Makauwahi as a fossil site, excavations have found pollen, seeds, invertebrate shells and Polynesian artifacts, as well as thousands of bird and fish bones.

An array of native birds that had evolved in splendid isolation filled every kind of niche.

More than 40 species of extinct native bird fossils have been excavated from Makauwahi, including an odd long-legged owl, which specialized in hunting small forest birds, and a nocturnal duck with shrunken eyes.

Among the bones discovered at Makauwahi were those of one lumbering flightless duck with a heavy bill designed to graze like a tortoise on short, tough grass and vegetation from rocks.

Bones of the endangered Hawaiian hawk and Laysan duck have also been discovered at the sinkhole. Today, these two species survive on single islands distant from Kauai, but the fossil discoveries suggest they were once more widespread throughout Hawaii.

Evidence from a full millennium of human activity chronicles the details of life nearby and its considerable impact on the island environment.

The Makauwahi Cave site provides a rich record of life before and after human arrival, and preserves many artifacts and food remains, including perishable cultural items.

Oral traditions said to extend back as far as the fourteenth century in some cases show good agreement with the archaeological and paleoecological record.

Following European contact, additional environmental impacts, including a drastic increase in erosion and many additional biological invasions, are documented from the site.

Paleoecologist David Burney and his wife Lida Pigott Burney, with help from hundreds of local volunteers, has found 10,000-year-old buried treasure in the Makauwahi Cave and wrote a book on the subject, Back to the Future in the Caves of Kauai, A Scientist’s Adventures in the Dark.

Makauwahi Cave is one of the Points of Interest in the Holo Holo Kōloa Scenic Byway. We assisted Mālama Kōloa and Kōloa Community Association with the preparation of the Corridor Management Plan for the Scenic Byway.

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Makauwahi Sinkhole

An active archeological dig with 10,000 years of preserved fossils found. The entrance requires crouching and head bumping is an initiation injury.

Makauwahi Sinkhole

Makauwahi Sinkhole (TGI)

A view of the open-air cave from the entrance.

Makauwahi Sinkhole (hawaii-edu)

Makauwahi Cave-Image-Map-(cavereserve-org)

Mahaulepu_Heritage_Trail-(7-Makauwahi_Cave)-Map

August 5, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Day 080 – January 10, 1820

January 10, 1820 – no entry. (Thaddeus Journal)

10th. As Mr. Ruggles has mentioned the particulars of our trials during the long and tempestuous gale, which we have recently experienced,’ I shall only add my desire to unite with him in requesting our American friends to bless the Lord in our behalf for his perserving mercy. I did not venture on deck myself until the storm abated, but when I did, it seemed indeed as if the foundations of the great deep were broken up; while peace and serenity prevaded every countenance. –
“The storm is laid the winds retire Obedient to thy will;
The sea that roars at thy command,
At thy command is still.” (Nancy Ruggles)

10th. Three large ships seen yesterday and one this morning supposed, to be the S. sea whalers. We hope to be in sight of the Falkland in 3 or 4 days. We long to get into the Pacific ocean. Capt. B. says we cannot expect, rougher weather in doubling the cape than we have already had. (Samuel Ruggles)

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