Wahiawa | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

April 15, 2020 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Elephant Cage

It doesn’t exist anymore (and was relatively short-lived,) and contrary to its nickname, it didn’t house pachyderms. It was actually an antenna array, constructed near Wahiawa, Oʻahu, and used during the Cold War.

More formally known as the AN/FRD-10 Circularly Disposed Antenna Array (CDAA) at NCTAMS (Facility 314,) it was a part of the efforts to gather foreign intelligence information.

Along with fourteen other FRD-10 CDAAs worldwide, it was a part of the Naval Security Group’s Classic Bullseye network, a program for strategic signals intelligence (SIGINT) collection and transmitter locating.

This technology was a radical improvement in the performance of high-frequency direction finding. Its design, with uniformly spaced outside the rings of reflector screens, was able to intercept and detect the direction of high-frequency radio transmissions covering 360 degrees. (NPS)

Early work on CDAA systems had been undertaken by the German navy’s signal intelligence research and development center early in World War II.

At that time, it was given the name, Wullenweber, or Wullenweber Antenna (named after Jürgen Wullenweber who was the mayor of Lubeck, Germany from 1533 to 1537. He was an opponent of injustice and a supporter of the Protestant cause who became a legendary figure.)

In addition to the nickname noted above, it was referenced by some as a “Dinosaur Cage; “ the names came from the nature of its construction.

The structure had concentric circles of posts and wires; the innermost ring was an antenna reflector screen made up of 80-vertical wood poles 94-feet high that were spaced evenly about 28′-6″ apart in a circle about 732-feet in diameter.

Moving outward, another circle of 40-poles, 58-feet high, spaced evenly a little over 61-feet apart formed a ring 776-feet in diameter. A third ring, 847-feet in diameter consisted of 120 wood poles, 25-feet in height, spaced 22-feet apart. The outer-most ring had 120-poles, 22-feet in height forming a circle with an 873-foot diameter.

With poles, wire and netting, it looked like a cage to control some big animals, thus its nicknames.

But it served a greater purpose; throughout the post-World War II years, advancing technology helped to shift the means of intelligence gathering by the US, from networks of agents operating on the ground in foreign lands to electronic and over flying systems that could gather data from much greater distances.

Remember, in the 1950s technology was still in its relative infancy; it was only in 1957 that the Soviets launched the first earth-orbiting satellite (Sputnik I.)

The Wahiawa facility was positioned to pick up all radio signals from Asia and the Pacific region, but the antenna was so sensitive that it could also pick up signals from around the world. Its sub-antennas in a complete circle also let operators inside know the direction from which the signal was coming.

Although human intelligence gathering efforts continued, technology played a greater role in the collection of information. The 1950s saw a greater capability of aerial reconnaissance in intercepting voice, radiotelephone, facsimile or Morse code communication, either transmitted in the clear or encrypted.

In addition, electronics were beginning to be able to pick up non-communications signals, such as the releases from foreign radar, and signals sent back from missiles or satellites that indicate performance and operation during a flight.

Supporting this aerial surveillance, during the 1950s and 1960s, work on ways of improving the capabilities and performance of high-frequency direction-finding equipment was improving – part of that research was the refinement of circular arrays, the CDAAs.

Besides the Wahiawa facility (built between 1962 and 1964,) CDAA were operational at Agana, Guam; Homestead AFB, FL; Imperial Beach, CA; Marietta, WA; Howard AFB, Panama Canal Zone; Sebana Seca, PR; Skaggs Island, CA; Sugar Grove, WV; Winter Harbor, ME; Canada: CFB Gander, NF; CFB Masset, BC; Europe: Brawdy, UK; Edzell, UK; Keflavik, Iceland; NAS Rota, Spain; and Asia: Hanza, Japan.

The worldwide network, known collectively as “Iron Horse”, could detect and locate Soviet submarines and other high frequency communications almost anywhere on the planet.

The system was wound down at the end of the Cold War; in the mid-1990s, the network of facilities were started to be torn down. On October 4, 1998, the Wahiawa facility ceased operations and was dismantled in 2005.

In September 2007, it was completely removed to make way for new buildings of the Hawaiʻi Regional Special Operations Center (HRSOC;) the military relocated its state-of-the-art intelligence and data gathering and analysis facility, related to security operations in the Pacific, out to the Kunia Tunnel.

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NSA-CSS Hawaii Regional Security Operations Center-that replaced the Elephant Cage-GoogleEarth

July 14, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kūkaniloko Birthstones

The Kūkaniloko Birthstones site is one of the most significant cultural sites on O‘ahu. This significance was recognized in the listing of the site on the National and Hawai’i Registers of Historic Places.

Kūkaniloko means “to anchor the cry from within.”

The 5-acre site was acquired by the State of Hawaiʻi in 1992 and placed under the jurisdiction of State Parks to preserve and interpret this important historic site.

Kūkaniloko was one of two places in Hawai‘i specifically designated for the birth of high-ranking children; the other site was Holoholokū at Wailua on Kauai.

These royal birthing sites maintained the antiquity and purity of the chiefly lineages on O‘ahu and Kauai. It is said that chiefs from Hawai‘i Island and Maui often sought greater prestige by marrying those with these strong ancestral lineages.

The site is marked by 180 stones covering an area of about ½-acre. Many of these stones have surface depressions and fluted edges with a coating of red dirt. These surfaces are probably a combination of natural weathering and human craftsmanship over many generations.

Today, they appear as very smooth, round, “sit-spots” in the rocks, with no signs of tools or human workmanship; only their uniform symmetry and design would indicate human craftsmanship.

One can immediately visualize the use of these stone “sit-spots” in childbirth, for many of them have natural backrests behind the depressions, which would have given firm support to a straining mother-to-be. It is small wonder that these birthstones would have been revered and reserved for childbirth for chiefesses.

With assistance from her attendants, the chiefess would lean against the stone and follow the prescribed regulations for birthing (liloe kapu).

Beginning with the birth of Kapawa, Kūkaniloko became recognized as the royal birthsite on O’ahu. Based on genealogical records, the dates of Kapawa’s birth range from A.D. 1100 to A.D. 1400, but the date could be earlier.

A child born in the presence of the chiefs was called “he ali‘i” (a chief), “he akua” (a god), “he wela” (a blaze of heat). The births of at least 4 renown chiefs of O‘ahu are recorded at Kūkaniloko – La‘a (ca. 1420,) Mā‘ilikūkahi (ca. 1520,) Kalanimanuia (ca. 1600) and Kākuhihewa (ca. 1640).

The reign of these chiefs was marked by good deeds, peace and prosperity.

This place was so highly viewed that, even in later times, Kamehameha I, in 1797, previous to the birth of his son and successor, Liholiho (Kamehameha II,) made arrangements to have his birth take place at Kūkaniloko; but the illness of Queen Keōpūolani prevented that (Liholiho was born in Hilo.)

Major trails crossed the island and intersected near Kūkaniloko. The Waialua Trail ran from Waialua through Wahiawā to ‘Ewa. The Kolekole Trail from Wai‘anae crossed the Wai‘anae Range and joined the Waialua Trail near Kūkaniloko.

To the south of the birthstones is the Wai‘anae Mountain Range with prominent peaks such as Kaʻala and a dip known as Kolekole. According to oral tradition, these features create an image of a pregnant woman known as “wahine hāpai.”

From Kūkaniloko, the setting of the sun at peaks (pu‘u) along the Waiʻanae Range could be observed and used as a calendar. Some of the stones at Kūkaniloko may have been used as reference points to observe the sun setting behind, Mt. Ka‘ala at the equinox.

Likewise, it is believed that alignments and marking on the stones illustrate navigational directions. (Today, September 22, 2012) is the Autumnal Equinox; from Kūkaniloko, the setting sun is aligned with Mt. Kaʻala.)

Wahiawā is translated as place of rumbling. It is said that Wahiawā is where thunderstorms, the voices of the ancestral gods, welcomed an offspring of divine rank. Being the center of O‘ahu, Kūkaniloko is also symbolic of the piko (navel, as well as center) and thus, birth.

The site is managed and maintained through a partnership between DLNR-State Parks, the Hawaiian Civic Club of Wahiawā and the Friends of Kūkaniloko. Additional support for interpretive efforts at the site has been provided by the Wahiawā Hospital Association and the Wahiawā Community and Business Association.

The Kūkaniloko birthstones are located next to a dusty (or muddy) plantation road and are partially surrounded by former pineapple fields. The turn-off from Kamehameha Highway just north of the town of Wahiawā, at the Whitmore Village intersection.

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Kukaniloko_Birthing_stones

Oahu-Kukaniloko-Waianae_Mountains

Waianae_Mountains-(IfA)

Seasonal_Dates_indicated_by_points_on_Waianae_Range-as_seen_from_Kukaniloko

October 25, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kemo‘o Farm

At the ahupua‘a of Kamananui at Wahiawa are the remains of what McAllister describes as “the longest irrigation ditch of which there is any memory” among modern Hawaiians.

Rice cultivation, extension of the railroad system toward Waialua and the development of commercial sugarcane cultivation with the rise of the Waialua Agricultural Company (later named the Waialua Sugar Company) dramatically altered the landscape of Kamananui Ahupua‘a during the last two decades of the nineteenth century.

Kemo‘o is an ili (land division smaller than an ahupua‘a) of Kamananui. These lands were further modified during the early twentieth century through the development of a military post (Schofield Barracks,) sugar cane cultivation (Kemo‘o Land Company,) a piggery and dairy operation (Kemo‘o Farm) and the pineapple industry with its plantation settlements (Kemo‘o Camp) further re-shaped the landscape surrounding the project area. (Cultural Surveys)

Kemo’o Land Company, Ltd was started in 1910 by ED Tenney, Charles H Atherton, WW Goodale, TH Petrie and JR Gait “to carry on the business of agriculture, manufacturing and mercantile pursuits (generally, operation of mills, sugar works, irrigation systems and railroads.) (Hawaiian Star, May 24, 1907)

Kemo‘o Camp was housing for pineapple workers; it opened sometime before 1920 for Hawaiian Pineapple workers and their families. It closed when the plantation built new homes in Whitmore Village. (Star Bulletin)

In 1914, Percy Martyn Pond started the Kemo‘o Farm for the “conservation of table refuse from Schofield Barracks by the production of pork and eggs.” (Nellist)

“The Kemo‘o farm, located near Schofield Barracks, Oahu, has a swine herd numbering 1,460 animals, 250 of which are brood sows of high grade and 10 are pure-bred Duroc-Jersey and Berkshire boars. Each sow on this farm farrows, on the average, 3 litters in two years and raises 5 or 6 pigs per annum.”

“Eighty cans containing about 300 pounds of garbage each are daily hauled from the military posts to the Kemo’o farm. In 1915 the Kemo‘o farm sold 365 garbage-fed hogs … In 1918 the sales increased to 1,686 head …”

“Kemo‘o farm, where swine raising constitutes the main and a highly specialized line of farming, with dairying and poultry raising ranking next in importance.” (CTAHR, 1923)

In 1920, a young soldier named Leo B Rodby, a newcomer to Hawai‘i, took a part-time job at the farm. In 1930, he bought the controlling interest in the corporation. A year later, he and his wife, Carita Fisher Rodby, had a son named Richard H (Dick) Rodby.

The farm was discontinued in 1934. The next year, a dining room overlooking the lake was opened, prompting long lines of soldiers eager for one of their sizzling steaks. During World War II, even the generals stood in line.

Dick graduated from Leilehua High School in 1948. After graduation, he served in the army and had his basic training at Schofield.

From there he attended Woodbury College in Los Angeles to become an accountant. After graduating from Woodbury Business College and San Francisco Hotel and Restaurant College, he went to work at the Santa Barbara Biltmore Hotel.

He was first in the accounting department, but then transferred into Food and Beverage and worked his way up the ladder becoming Executive Assistant General Manager for the property.

In 1953, Leo passed away. His mother called and said he was needed back home to run Kemo‘o Farm Restaurant. Dick became the president of Kemo‘o Farm in 1958. (Kemo‘o Pub)

In 1953, From Here to Eternity came out; it is about the peacetime Army on O‘ahu and culminating with the Japanese surprise attack (it’s one of only two Pacific movies to win Academy Awards for Best Picture (the other film is Mutiny on the Bounty in 1935.)

The movie used the restaurant (named Choy’s in the novel and film – after Kemo‘o’s chef;) where the fight scene takes place in the movie and where the novel opens.

Dick was delivered by Dr Arthur Davis who was the Waialua Plantation doctor and father to Charles KL and Francis Davis. He knew Charles KL Davis well from growing up in Waialua.

When Davis returned from the mainland they got together which led to nearly a 12 year run at Kemo’o Farm of music, fun and a whole new venue for Kemo’o Farm.

Big Wednesday buffet lunch shows were selling out weeks in advance of up to 150-180 people per show, weekend nights were packed. Dad started adding guests to the show with Charles with all the local Hawaiian entertainers. (Borthwick)

The family sold Kemo‘o Farm in 1992 and concentrated on the Happy Cakes until 2002 when they sold the company to Owen O’Callaghan.

Today, there are three different bars to choose from at the Kemo’o Farms Pub and Grill: The Pub, Lakeside Lanai or The Barn. (Lots of information here is from Borthwick, Happy Cake, Star Advertiser and Washington Post.)

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Kemoo_Farm-1938

Garbage-fed pigs at Kemoo Farms-CTAHR-1923

Vats for steaming garbage at Kemoo Farms-CTAHR-1923

Kemoo Farm milk bottles

Kemoo Farm-Patrons wait for 1st beer delivery-1933

Kemoo Farm

Kemoo Farm-1985

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Kemoo Farm ashtray

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Wahiawa Area Map-1938

September 12, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lake Wilson

One hundred and thirty-six-feet high
Four hundred and sixty-one-feet long
Five hundred and eighty-feet thick
Twenty-six-thousand-cubic yards of stone backing
One hundred and forty-one-thousand-cubic yards of earth filling
A reservoir seven-miles long
Capacity 2,500,000,000 gallons
Cost three hundred thousand dollars
(Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 15, 1906)

“The greatest irrigation proposition ever undertaken in the Hawaiian Islands is the Wahiawa dam, which will soon be under course of construction in the Wahiawa valley, some miles from Honolulu. … It will also be used for irrigating fruit lands belonging to a colony of settlers in the immediate vicinity of the dam and for generating electric power.”

“This dam will conserve in a great natural reservoir basin over two and a half billion gallons of water which will be used chiefly to irrigate the upper cane lands of the Waialua Agricultural Company’s great sugar plantation, eight miles away.” (Louisiana Planter, September 19, 1904)

Wahiawa is located in Central Oʻahu on the Leilehua Plateau, the central plain between the Waiʻanae and Koʻolau mountain ranges.

Following Wahiawa’s initial Euro-American settlement, a period of intense agricultural interest in the pineapple industry ensued. The Hawai’i Agricultural Research Station established on the outskirts of Honolulu further supported the agricultural pursuits of pineapple and sugar in the region.

Early agricultural activities significantly modified the landscape in Wahiawa. In 1900, the Wahiawa Water Company was created through an agreement between Waialua Agricultural Company, the government, and stockholders of the colony cooperative.

Under the direction of engineer Albert Andrew Wilson, residents constructed a system of irrigation flumes, ditches, and tunnels to carry water from the northern branch of the Kaukonahua Stream to agricultural tracts.

A subsequent, more substantial phase of the irrigation project involved the damning of the two forks of the Kaukonahua Stream to develop the Wahiawa Reservoir in 1906.

The reservoir, later known as Lake Wilson, is the largest water impoundment in the state and has effectively constrained residential development in Wahiawa to its geographic boundaries.

Originally constructed by the Waialua Sugar Company, the reservoir would help to fuel other important agricultural enterprises as well. The successful irrigation facilitated by the reservoir, resulted in over half of the Wahiawa tract becoming cultivated land, with pineapple quickly emerging as the colony’s most valuable crop. (DLNR)

Construction began in 1903 and was completed in 1905. The logistics of the construction were challenging. Railroad track was laid for bringing in the boulders for the rock fill portion from as far away as 6-miles. A high trestle was built over the dam site, and the rocks were dropped into place. The long drop compacted them so they held in place.

“It has taken six years since the preliminary work was begun and two years of continuous work to complete the great enterprise. Now it is finished, and five million gallons of water a day are being delivered to the Waialua Plantation, and although this is dry weather, eighteen feet of water have accumulated in the reservoir during the last two weeks.”

“It will double the available cane area of the Waialua Plantation, and place it in the same class with Ewa, with an annual output of thirty thousand tons and upwards.”

“What that tonnage means is shown by comparing it with twelve thousand tons, the entire output of Hawaii in 11875, the year before the Reciprocity Treaty went into operation. (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 15, 1906)

“The outlet from the reservoir extends through four miles of ditch and tunnel until it issues onto the cane lands at the elevation above sea level of seven hundred and thirty feet, or one hundred and eighty feet higher than any fields now cultivated.”

“This brings twelve thousand acres of cane land under a gravity flow of water and doubles the area available for cultivation, without increasing the present pumping plant. (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 15, 1906)

“The only defect we have found in the design or construction of the dam is in the outlet valve which is 48 inches in diameter.
There is a pressure of about thirty tons against it when the reservoir is full. This great weight makes it difficult to open and shut the gate when necessary to increase or diminish the quantity of water delivered to the plantation.”

“An extension of the 48 inch outlet pipe, with two smaller gates, has been ordered, and the material is now at the dam. This will put the water under perfect control and permit, at some future time, the installation of turbine wheels for the development of water power.”

“The construction of this dam and the ditches by which the water is delivered to all parts of the plantation, will complete the development of the plantation and make all the land below the 700 ft. level available for cane cultivation.” (Hawaiian Star, February 28, 1907)

“But there are those who know all these facts and a hundred more, who have tirelessly schemed and worked and financed the great work to success. These men are (Leonard Grant) LG Kellogg, the manager of the company; (Hiram Clay) HC Kellogg, CE, of Santa Anna, Cal., who prepared the plans and personally superintended the construction of the dam, and …”

“… (Edward Davies) ED Tenney, President of the Water Company and of the Waialua Company, and (William Whitmore) WW Goodale, manager of the Waialua Agricultural Company which has financed the enterprise.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 15, 1906)

Since 1957, the Department of Land and Natural Resources, through a cooperative agreement with Castle & Cooke, Inc., has managed Wahiawa Reservoir as a public fishing area. In 1968, a 14-foot wide concrete boat launching ramp and parking area were constructed by the State for public use.

The reservoir is stocked with both large and small mouth bass, bluegill sunfish, Channel catfish, Threadfin shad, tilapia, peacock bass, oscar, Chinese catfish, and carp. It is the responsibility of DLNR’s Division of Aquatic Resources to manage these gamefish populations within the reservoir for recreational fishing purposes.

Albert Andrew Wilson (water manager, engineer and contractor) was born at Pescadero, San Mateo County on March 22, 1874; he was son of James and Susan (Matilda) Wilson.

Following arrival in Hawaii, in September 1897, he was engaged with engineering corps of Oahu Railway & Land Co. on Waialua and Kahuku extensions for two years.

From 1899-1915, he was in contracting business, during which time he was associated with various projects, such as railroad, ditch and dam building (he later served as manager of Wahiawa Water Works.) He was general superintendent of construction of the Waiāhole Ditch tunnel. On October 1, 1909 he married Nellie Beatrice Baker of Hilo; they had one child, James. (Men of Hawaii)

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Dam and Reservoir at Wahiawa under construction-PCA-Feb_15_1906

Dam and Reservoir at Wahiawa-PCA-Feb_15_1906

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H Clay Kellogg-PCA-Feb_15_1906

ED Tenney-PCA-Feb_15_1906

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Lake Wilson

Lake Wilson-Map-(DLNR)

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Salvinia_Control-(DLNR)

133635_1.tif. AMBO (ftp,aps) 2/18/39 (CITY,Gordon) weed 21Salvinia Molesta weed that has accumulated in Lake Wilson is being removed by an amphibious excavator.

July 12, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wailupe Naval Radio Station

“Navy officials said they received a garbled radio message early today, purported to have been sent by Amelia Earhart, which indicated her plane was sinking.”

“The message received by three navy operators was pieced together as follows: ‘281 north Howland call KHAQQ beyond north won’t hold with us much longer above water shut off.’”

“The operators said keying of the message was poor and they were able only to pick up the fragments of it was received between 4:30 am and 5:30 am Pacific coast time.” (Bakersfield Californian, July 5, 1937)

Reanalysis of the credible post-loss signals supports the hypothesis that they were sent by Earhart’s Electra from a point on the reef at Nikumaroro, about a quarter-mile north of the shipwreck of the British freighter SS Norwich City. (NBC)

The signal was picked up by radiomen at the US Naval Radio Station in Wailupe, O‘ahu.

“The Navy purchased a piece of land at Wailupe for the temporary station and it was very temporary as plans were in the making for a permanent station at Wailupe.”

The temporary station at Wailupe was built around the first part of 1919 and personnel moved there to allow the Kahuku and Koko Head stations to be remodeled. Almost the entire crew of operators at Koko Head was sent to Wailupe.

“There were three booths, more like chicken coops, scattered on the beach. Each booth, of crude construction, had room for two circuits. The roofs leaked and some of the operators had to sit under an umbrella suspended from the ceiling to keep water off the equipment.”

“We stood a three section watch, seven days a week, no rotation of watches, no days off. Straight 8 on and 16 off, and that’s the way it was at the start of NPM (long distance radio station at Pearl Harbor) at Wailupe as a Government and commercial traffic station.” (Phelps)

The station was completed early in 1921. It was a rectangular, one story building on pilings out over the water to provide more land space for the proposed officer’s quarters, two duplex quarters and the single men’s barracks.

The building was divided into compartments or booths, seven on each side separated by a hallway extending the full length of the building. The wireroom had Morse code landline circuits to the Old Naval Station in Honolulu (HU) for transmission of commercial, other government department traffic and press news dispatches for the Honolulu newspapers

One additional set of duplex quarters was built between the two original duplexes. A tennis court, swimming pool and recreation building had been constructed. A diversity receiving station had been built on the hill behind the quarters.

Facilities at Wailupe in 1939 were meager, and an entirely new receiving and control station was under construction. At Wailupe in December 1941 there were seventy-six men operating twelve positions to receive and send naval dispatches.

After the December 7, 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor, the Navy realized that the station at Wailupe on the seacoast was very vulnerable to attack.

So, on the morning of December 10, 1941, the District Communication Officer decided to have all radio equipment at Wailupe moved to Wahiawa.

(Wahiawa was originally established in 1940 as a temporary Naval Radio Station and Naval Radio Direction Finder Station, but the need to expand receiving facilities and to separate transmitting and receiving facilities forced expansion at NCTAMS PAC Wahiawa.)

The Wahiawa site was an excellent receiving area arid the best protected radio station of the entire district. Relocation was completed on December 17 without interruption of communications. (Todd)

With the outbreak of World War II, the Coast Guard established a Training Station in early spring 1942 at the former Naval Radio Station at Wailupe. One of the most important schools at the Training Station was the 16-week Radioman School.

There were approximately 20 students per class, with the first class beginning in March 1942. In November 1943, the Coast Guard assumed control of all inter-island communications for the Navy. As a result of the increased traffic, a new primary radio station was constructed on the site of the Wailupe Training Station.

However, the Coast Guard felt “the site of the present District primary radio station at Wailupe is far from satisfactory because of lack of space and the character of the terrain which prevents the proper separation of transmitting and receiving antenna systems.”

During the period of September – October 1958, the receiver site and administrative spaces were moved to Wahiawa. (Coast Guard)

Eventually, the area makai of Kalanianaʻole Highway was transferred and is now Wailupe Beach Park; the Coast Guard maintains housing and recreational facilities, mauka of the highway. (Lots of information and images here are from Phelps, Todd and virhistory-com.)

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