Kau | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

September 6, 2018 by Peter T Young 3 Comments

Kahuku Ranch

On July 8, 1861 184,298 acres of Kahuku, the entire ahupua‘a was assigned by King Kamehameha IV to Charles Coffin Harris under Patent 2791 for $3,000. As with most grants it recognized the “ancient boundaries” and reserved “the rights of native tenants.”

Harris, a graduate of Harvard learned the Hawaiian language and set up a law practice in Hawai`i. His service to the kingdom included Minister of Finance, Minister of Foreign Affairs, Hawai`i’s first Attorney General, Associate Justice of the Supreme Court, and then Chief Justice, 1877-1881, police magistrate and legislative member.

Kalākaua studied law under Harris at the age of 17 making it no surprise Harris became the King’s adviser. While no record of Harris’ activities in Kahuku could be found the land may not have been used for ranching until the next owner. (Helen Wong Smith)

Ownership of Kahuku Ranch transferred from Harris to Theophilus Brown of Groton Connecticut on April 3, 1866 for the price of $5,250. Theophilus’ brother Captain Robert Brown operated the Ranch bringing his family with him.

A visitor to the ranch during these years was Mrs. Alura Brown Cutler wrote the ranch had miles of stone walls enclosing gardens, cattle yards, calf pasture, goat and pig pens.

The gardens contained fig and peach trees as well as bananas and mulberries. She reported the house was located seven miles from the sea and five stone houses for families working for the ranch were provided. (Helen Wong Smith)

Then, “On Friday, March 27, 1868, at 5:30 a.m., several whaling ships anchored in Kawaihae Harbor noticed a dense column of fume reflected by a bright light southwest of the summit of Mauna Loa.”

“An eruption near Moku`āweoweo had taken place, lasting several hours before subsiding. Pele’s hair had drifted down upon the residents of Ka‘ū and South Kona, indicating the presence of lava fountains above. (HVO; Helen Wong Smith)

“This was the scene that opened before us as we ascended the ridge on Friday (April 10, 1868). At the left were these four grand fountains playing with terrific fury, throwing blood-red lava and huge stones, some as large as a house, to £ varying from 500 to 1,000 feet.”

“The grandeur of this scene, ever changing like a moving panorama, no one who has not seen it can realize. Then there was the rapid, rolling stream, rushing and tumbling like a swollen river, down the hill, over the precipice and down the valley to the sea, surging and roaring like a cataract, with a fury perfectly indescribable.”

“This river of fire varied from 200 to 800 feet in width, and when it is known that the descent was 2,000 feet in five miles, the statement that it ran at the rate of ten to twenty-five miles an hour will not be doubted.”

“We waited till night, when the scene was a hundred fold more grand and vivid. The crimson red of the lava now doubly bright, the lurid glare of the red smoke-clouds that overhung the whole, …”

“… the roaring of the rushing stream, the noise of the tumbling rocks thrown out of the crater, the flashes of electric lightning, and the sharp quick claps of thunder – altogether made the scene surpassingly grand.” (HM Whitney, editor of the Honolulu Advertiser, April 13, 1868)

“The 1868 flow destroyed the house of Capt. Robert Brown …. The flow advanced so quickly on the house that Captain Brown and his family escaped with only the clothes on their backs.”

“Soon after the eruption, Theophilus sold the ranch to a hui (group) that included George Jones, who bought out his partners’ interests to became sole owner in 1877.”

“Another Mauna Loa eruption in 1887 produced an ‘a‘ā flow to the west of the 1868 eruption. From vent to ocean, the flow advanced 24 km (15 mi) in about 29 hours and came close – but did not damage – Jones’ residential compound.”

“The real impact of the 1887 eruption on Jones’ ranch was the flow of sightseers. George was known as a very hospitable man and, for several weeks, was forced to suspend operations in order to accommodate the hordes of curious visitors.”

“About a year-and-a-half after the 1887 eruption, Jones sold the ranch to Col. Samuel Norris. Norris, described as eccentric and peculiar, was not hospitable to his fellow Caucasians.”

“Another Mauna Loa eruption in 1907 produced lava flows to the west of the 1887 and 1868 flows, further reducing pasture lands. Tourists flocking to the new flows were not welcomed by the new ranch owner.”

“Norris was 66 when he bought the ranch. In 1910, when he realized he was dying, Norris essentially gave away the ranch, “selling” it to his long-time friend, Charles Macomber, for a dollar, complaining that lava flows had devalued the property. Norris died a few months later.”

“The upper reaches of the ranch were overrun by lava in 1903, 1916, and 1926 but these eruptions did not precipitate a sale as the earlier ones had.“

“In 1912, Macomber sold the ranch to A.W. Carter for inclusion in the famed Parker Ranch.” “During this ownership 1,200 head of cattle were largely run on the land nearest the highway, marginally using the land above the 1,400 foot elevation”

“On February 6, 1947 Parker Ranch sold Kahuku to James W Glover founder of the general construction firm bearing his name …. During his ownership Glover planted koa for logging and continued the installation of smooth wire fencing.”

“After Glover’s death, the ranch was sold under court order by the Hawaiian Trust company, the executor of his estate to pay estate debts including inheritance taxes amounting to almost a million dollars. The trustees of the Samuel M. Damon Estate made the winning bid in 1958”. (HVO; Helen Wong Smith)

On July 3, 2003, the National Park Service partnered with the Nature Conservancy to purchase the 116,000-acre Kahuku Ranch from the estate of Samuel Mills Damon as an addition to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, increasing the size of the park by 50% to 333,086 acres. (Vacation and event rentals remain for remnants of the former Kahuku Ranch, makai of the highway)

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Kahuku Ranch-NPS

Kahuku Ranch sale-SB

August 12, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wai‘ahukini

Cooks’ journal entry for January 5, 1779; reported his ship had rounded the south point of the island …

“On this point stands apritty large village, the inhabitants of which thronged off to the Ship with hogs and women … As we had now got a quantity of salt I purchased no hogs but what were fit, for salting, refuseing all that were under size …”

“… in general they being no other at first, but when they found we took none but the large ones, several went a shore and returned with some, however we could seldom get one about 50 or 60 Ib weight.”

“As to fruit and roots we did not want and it was well we did not for it was very little of either they brought with them, indeed the Country did not seem capable of producing many of either having been destroyed by a Volcano.” (Cook’s Journal)

“Some of the canoes that greeted Cook’s ship may have come not only from the South Point village, but also from those at Wai‘ahukini and Ka‘iliki‘i to the west and Keana and Kaalualu to the east.” (Kelly)

Wai‘ahukini was the last convenient landing place for canoes bringing people from the west side of Hawaii bound for the windward side, but proceeding on foot. (Emory, Bonk & Sinoto) This was a Royal Center used by Keōua and Kamehameha.

Royal Centers were selected for their abundance of resources and recreation opportunities, with good surfing and canoe-landing sites being favored.

The Hawaiian court was mobile within the districts the aliʻi controlled. A Chief’s attendants might consist of as many as 700 to 1000-followers, made of kahuna and political advisors; servants which included craftsmen, guards, stewards; relatives and others. (NPS)

Aliʻi often moved between several residences throughout the year. There was no regular schedule for movement between Royal Centers. In part, periodic moves served to ensure that district chiefs did not remain isolated, or unsupervised long enough to gather support for a revolt. (NPS)

“Wherever a ruling ali‘i had his establishment there was a large aggregation of domiciles. On Hawai‘i, the high chief of Kona lived at Kailua, in Ka‘ū he lived at Waiohinu or at Waio‘Ahukini below South Point (a favored fishing place). (Handy)

“In the lee of the great cliff (which was caused by a geologic fault) named Pali-o-Mamalu (Cliff-of-Protection) is Wai-o-‘Ahu-kini. The trade winds pass a thousand or more feet above it, which gives it a scorching desert climate in the daytime; but when the sun goes down it cools rapidly and the nights are cool.”

“Southerly cyclonic storms sweep in over the low shore, inundating the whole area. That is why there is, and has been, no permanent habitation here.”

“(T)he population settled in the two western ahupua‘a of Ka‘ū. Wai-o-‘Ahu-kini (Water of Ahukini) close by, with its spring, pond, and canoe haven, and the best fishing ground in all Hawaii …”

“… was awarded in the ancient land allotment to Pakini, then one of the most verdant of the plains areas of cultivation. “Doubtless it was Pakini’s numerous population, which gave its ali‘i power, that was responsible for this award.” (Handy)

“From the cliff above Wai-o-‘Ahu-kini and from the trail going down can be seen a stagnant pool close to the shore; this was evidently the ‘water’ of ‘Ahu-kini.”

“A broken lava formation offshore, which is called Ka-wa‘a-Iua (The-double-canoe) or Wa‘a-ka‘uhi (Canoe-resting-upon-shelter) is in line with the two heaps of stones. This formation was said to be the remains of a great double canoe which came from Kahiki.”

“West of this is a small outcropping rock, shaped like a turtle, which is called Honu-nui (Big-sea turtle). About a hundred yards west of the talus at the base of the cliff is a pond (loko) just below a swampy place with stagnant water in it; this shows evidence of having been encased with stone.”

“Formerly this loko was larger. It may have been a fishpond. Its name was Wai-Kalehune or Pelehune. A rough stone wall runs across the middle of this. There are various walls nearby, and an enclosure about 30 feet square whose walls are built of lava and coral chunks; inside the enclosure is a shallow pit surrounded by stones.”

“Mrs. Kelly concluded that it was in the pond described above that Keōua, high chief of Ka‘ū, and, after his death, Kamehameha, are said to have kept their canoes.” (Handy & Pukui) up

“One of the earliest foreigners to visit Ka‘ū was Archibald Menzies, the surgeon and naturalist on Vancouver’s voyage. Menzies had been in the Hawaiian Islands previously as surgeon on the furtrader Prince of Wales under Captain Colnett in the years 1787 and 1788, but he had not kept a journal of that visit.”

“Vancouver’s ships were in the Islands three times – 1792, 1793, and 1794. “On the 1794 trip Menzies was able to get to the top of Hualalai and of Mauna Loa. His successful ascent of Mauna Loa was on a trail that leads up from Kapāpala.”

“The approach to this trail from Kona. where Vancouver’s ships were anchored. Was by canoe to Ka‘iliki‘i, or Wai‘ahukini in Pi‘ikini, Kalli, and then overland on foot to Kapapala.”

“The canoe trip from Kona ended, Menzies wrote, at a ‘small village called Pakini (Pakini Village was probably Wai‘ahukini in Pikini Nui) near the south point of the island.’”

“He said the village belonged to Nāmāhāna, Ke‘eaumoku’s wife, and that he stayed in a house belonging to Keaweaheulu.”

“The overland journey began on February 10, 1794, as the party headed inland where they passed close by a ‘fine plantation belonging to Kamehameha, called Kahuku.’”

“Their inland journey turned northeastward about 5 or 6 miles from the shore. The path was narrow, winding, and in some places very rugged, seldom allowing passage of ‘more than one person at a time …. Towards evening we descended into a fine fertile valley and put up for the night at a village called Ki‘oloku, on a rich plantation belonging to Keaweaheulu’”. (Kelly)

“Rev. William Ellis, the second on-site visitor to leave a record, wrote at considerable length about the Ka‘ū portion of his tour around Hawaii. He was impressed, as were the historians of Cook’ s voyage, by the barrenness of the part of Ka‘ū that adjoins the Kona district.”

“Just before daybreak on July 27, 1823, Ellis arrived by canoe at the small fishing village and canoe landing of Ka‘iliki‘i. It is located about a mile west of Wai‘ahukini, where Menzies landed. Ellis wrote that they were ‘obliged to keep off the shore until day-light enabled them to steer between the rocks to the landing place’” (Kelly)

“At 10 am Mr. Thurston preached to the people of Tairitii (Ka‘iliki‘i), and the neighbouring village of Patini, all of whom are fishermen. They behaved with propriety, and appeared interested. We had sent out Makoa, our guide, soon after our arrival, to inform the people, that there would be a religious meeting, and invite their attendance.”

“He had gone much farther than we expected he would; and, just as Mr. Thurston had finished his sermon, he returned, followed by a considerable company from an inland settlement … They seemed disappointed at finding the service over.”

“As they said they could not wait till the evening, they and the people of the village assembled in a large canoehouse, and Mr Thurston preached again … After they had spent an hour or two in conversation with us, they returned, …. In the afternoon, Mr Thurston preached a third time. Between 70 and 80 were present … (Ellis)

“Undoubtedly the ‘neighbouring village of Patini’ was the village of Pakini mentioned by Menzies by Menzies and now called Wai‘ahukini.” (Kelly)

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Waioahukini-Discovery Harbor

Waiahukini Village Runis-Map-Kelly

January 4, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kahuku

“It is not only by far the worst part of the Island, but as barren waste looking a country as can be conceived to exist … we could discern black Streaks coming from the Mountain even down to the Seaside.”

“But the s[outhern] neck seems to have undergone a total change from the Effect of Volcanoes, Earthquakes, etc … By the SE side were black honey comd rockds, near the s extremity were hummocks of a Conical Shape which appeared of a reddish brown rusty Colour, & we judged them tot consist of Ashes.”

“The s extremit, which projects out, has upon it rocks of the most Craggy appearance, lying very irregularly, & of most curious shapes, terminating in Sharp points; horrid & dismal as this part of the Isalnd appears …”

“… yet there are many Villages interspersed, & it Struck us as being more populous than the part of Opoona [Puna] which joins Koa [Ka‘ū+. There are houses built even on the ruins lava flows we have describ’d.”

“Fishing is a principal occupation with the Inhabitants, which they sold to us, & we also had a very plentiful supply of other food when off this end…”

“…those we saw off Kao [Ka`ū], are very tawny, thin, & smallmean looking people, which doubtless arises from their constant exposure to the heat of the Sun, their being mostly employed in fishing or other hard labor on shore, & to their spare diet.” (King’s Journal)

“Kahuku, a very large ahupua‘a which for many years has been a ranch, is just beyond the southwest shoulder of Mauna Loa.”

“Over these heights the moisture-laden trade winds, having traversed the wet uplands and forested interior of eastern Ka‘ū, Hilo, and Hāmākua Districts, spread a great roll of cool clouds.”

“These masses of cool water vapor expand and precipitate as rain when they meet the air that rises morning to evening from the ocean, warmed in its passage over the dry lower plains of Kahuku, Manuka, and neighboring Kona.”

“Warmed trade winds also blow in over the southeast coast and Ka Lae, crossing the high rolling plains of Kama‘oa and Pakini, there precipitating much moisture as dew where it meets the cooled air blanketing the uplands.”

“Actually, during the months of March through November, the blanket of cool moist air moving over the upland flank of Mauna Loa, and the warm damp flood of wind diverted inland and overland by the high plains of Kama‘oa and Pakini …”

“… are nothing more nor less than vast eddies of the great southeastward flow of arctic air, which is warmed as it passes over the ocean in these latitudes.”

“These we term the “trades” – the winds so named because the ‘traders’ (sailing vessels) utilized their regular flow from March through November in their voyages.”

“In the season of southerly (kona) cyclonic storms, the wind and rain came in upon western Ka‘ū from oceanward in more violent gusts, sometimes sweeping in with great force.”

“These kona storms originate in the equatorial regions, hence their warm winds are heavily laden with moisture.”

“Coming upon the cool uplands their heavy black clouds produce electric storms, with thunder and lightning, and downpours starting with light gentle rain (hilina), which gradually increase into deluges, at times veritable cloudbursts.”

“These winter storms drench the whole land, which, whether dry lava, grassland, or forest, soaks it up greedily, and in the uplands stores it beneath the forests.”

“Continuing our journey into Ka‘ū, going southeastward, the next ahupua‘a after Manuka is Kahuku. Until the land was covered by lava through much of the verdant lower forest area in the last century, this must have been a far more favorable area for human occupation than was Manuka.”

“The evidence of such occupation have, however, been obliterated. Where lava has not covered the land, the pastures of Kahuku Ranch have done so. The seacoast of Kahuku is a barren as any on this side of Hawaii.”

“Standing on top of a hillock named Pu‘u Lohena on the east of Pakini and looking north across the 1868 flow, one can see beyond lava-covered land to where there was an open sandy area of Ka’iliki’i between two sections of the 1868 flows.”

“Ka‘iliki‘i was in 1823 described by Ellis as ‘a populous shore village’” The open ground led directly north toward Kahuku from the beach at Ka‘iliki‘i, where travelers from Kona often landed. “

“We could see how their path would have crossed an older flow that was there before the 1868 flow, as they headed for a break in the pali. This is a low dip in the ridge called Lua Puali.”

“In its lower reaches Kahuku is said formerly to have had flourishing gardens of sweet potato and sugar cane on the land now covered with lava.”

“If so, and we have no reason to doubt the veracity of informants, there must have been underground water here. Surface verdure, also, may have drawn more cloud and dew.”

“There probably was more rain coming across from Pakini when the plains east of the Pali-Mamalu and Pali Kulani (the great cliff that borders Kahuku on the east) were more verdant and covered with brush.”

“The bare lava of the recent flows, and the now dry plains of Pakini, Kama‘oa, and Ka‘alu‘alu must desiccate the winds which, sweeping along the coast line, normally throw up a cloud of cooled air that is moisture laden when the trade winds blow.”

“There is no similar drift of moisture over the naked shores of Kahuku and Manuka. Yet these coasts, barren as they are today, must have sufficed as good fishing grounds for the population settled in the two western ahupua‘a of Ka‘ū.”

“Wai-o-‘Ahu-kini close by, with its spring, pond and canoe haven, and the best fishing ground in all Hawaii, was awarded in the ancient land allotment to Pakini, then one of the most verdant of the plains areas of cultivation.”

“Doubtless it was Pakini’s numerous population, which gave its ali‘i power, that was responsible for this award.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

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Kahuku GoogleEarth

December 4, 2017 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Pahala Plantation

“Among the gigantic enterprises which had their birth at the consummation of the Treaty of Reciprocity between this Kingdom and the United States of America …”

“… notible mention should be made of a Company which was incorporated in 1877 under the name of the Hawaiian Agricultural Company (limited.) This Company chose for its locality or base of a site, at Pahala, situated on the southeast side of the Island of Hawaii.” (BF Dillingham; Daily Honolulu Press, November 26, 1885)

“Peter C. Jones, Charles R. Bishop, J.D. Brewer, H.A.P. Carter and several others chose to take advantage of the economic situation and incorporate on December 22, 1876 under the name Hawaiian Agricultural Company.” (HSPA)

“In due time the mill and other necessary buildings were erected, five miles from Punaluu Landing, at an elevation 800 (feet above the sea level, commanding a wide range of ocean, and an extensive view of the surrounding country.”

“Twenty-five miles along the shore by fifteen miles inland, reaching into the mountains, form the boundaries of the magnificent extent of territory taken up by this Company.”

“The first acre of virgin soil on this plantation was broken in 1877. A mill second in size to only one ever built in the history of the world, complete with building frame, and cover all of iron, was landed at Punaluu, in 1878.”

“Hundreds of acres of land had been plowed and planted with cane at an aggregate cost of an amount sufficient to yield more than a Princely income, when the outlook from long continued drought, seemed so strongly to betoken utter failure, that it was proposed by those who had been most sanguine among the promoters of the enterprise, to abandon the undertaking.”

“Without even erecting the ponderous mill which was now lying in a heap at the landing. A delegation of experts appointed by the Company at Honolulu took passage to the scene of distress, and it is said, their report favored the retrograde movement …”

“… and the delegation was of opinion that the prospective capacity of the whole plantation would not exceed 900 tons of sugar per annum. Fortunately for all interested parties, better counsels prevailed: forward! was the order cultivature progressed; rains came at last; cane fields almost white, put on their mantle of thrifty green, and hope revived.”

“In 1880, the ponderous mill, which had already been condemned under the euphonious name of ‘White Elephant,’ was removed from its quiet resting place and put in active service.”

“The area of cane under cultivation has steadily increased from 1,200 acres in 1880 until now there is a belt of cane fields stretching over a distance of seven miles, lying in a north easterly and south-westerly direction.”

“The lower edge of this belt barely reaches the elevation of the mill, rising thence toward the mountain top to a height of 1800 to 2000 feet. The number of acres under cultivation by the Company is 2000; and 600 acres more are cultivated by private planters”.

“The highest numbers of tons of sugar made, bagged, weighed, and shipped during any one day this 26½ tons. The best weeks work during the year shows an average of 46 clarifiers per day, or 138 tons of sugar for the week.”

“This much abused ‘White Elephant’ I am informed upon indisputable authority, has no superior in this kingdom, if any where else.”

“Its mechanism seems perfect as indeed do all its appointments. Its three little rollers, each of eleven tons weight, revolve with majestic quiet and dignity, performing their work of crushing cane in a manner which force upon one the thought suggested in the adage ‘Tho’ the Mills of the Gods grind slowly yet they grind exceedingly small.’” (BF Dillingham; Daily Honolulu Press, November 26, 1885)

“The original mill was brought from London in 1879 and was the largest in the islands at that time. But by 1914, it was necessary to increase it from a 9 roller mill to a 15 roller mill with a capacity of 45 tons of cane per hour. A new flume system and cane weighing scheme were also installed.”

“The flumes were arranged so that each contractor’s cane could be weighed separately, instead of weighing every tenth bundle in the field and averaging the weight. The cane was flumed into cars and weighed on track scales.”

“The Pahala mill also purchased cane from Wood Valley homesteaders, about 20 Hawaiians and Portuguese, who cultivated about 600 acres of land. This group of homesteaders was one of the most successful in the Territory.” (HSPA)

“While we stand watching the packing process, which is manipulated with mechanical precision and dispatch; a six-mule team is driven to the door, and in just four minutes from the time of arrival, the team is started to the tramway with a load of two and one half tons of sugar.”

“The narrow gauge railroad or tramway referred to was graded and built under the supervision of the present manager. Commencing at the wharf at Punaluu this tramway curves among the ledges of pahoehoe, rising on a grade of four feet in every hundred.”

“By the most rigid economy, the meager water supply afforded in very dry weather, by springs, found in the mountains at a distance of five to six miles, a sufficient amount is stored each night to ‘flume’ the required cane during the following day.”

“In making a tour through the cane fields, one is impressed with the thourough cultivation which was noticeable on every acre of ground. With loose earth and perfect freedom from weeds or grass, the full strength of the soil is given to nourish and foster the growth of the cane.”

“The whole working force on this plantation consists of a manager seven Lunas and 325 mill and field hands.”

“The portion of this great property embracing the Sugar Plantation is a small part of the whole; the bulk of the lands being suitable only for a cattle ranch.”

“Large herds of cattle (the aggregate number of which is said to be six thousand), roam at will over the vast expanse of territory. The cattle ranch is under the management of Mr. Julian Monsarrat who resides at Kapapala at the residence of the late WH Reed, former owner of that property. Under the management of this gentleman an effort is being made to improve the breed of both cattle and horses.”

“The plantation is a financial success, and every department is conducted with a quiet orderly mechanical precission, which is a comfort to both governor and governed.” (BF Dillingham; Daily Honolulu Press, November 26, 1885)

“In 1972, C. Brewer & Co. decided to consolidate the Hawaiian Agricultural Company with Hutchinson Sugar Plantation Company. The new entity was named Kau Sugar Company.” (HSPA) In 1999, Hawai‘i Island’s sugar era ended with the closure of Kau Sugar Mill.

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Japanese sugar plantation laborers at Kau, Hawaii Island-(HSA)-PP-46-4-010-1890

HAWAIIAN AGRICULTURE COMPANY PLANTATION HOSPITAL

HAWAIIAN AGRICULTURAL COMPANY – JAMES COMPSIE AND WIFE

Kau_Irrigation

Punaluu village, Hawaii-(HSA)-PPWD-5-6-003-1880

Hawaiian Agricultural Co – stock

April 24, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Makanau

“About half-past eleven we reached Hilea, a pleasant village belonging to the governor. As we approached it, we observed a number of artificial fish-ponds, formed by excavating the earth to the depth of two or three feet, and banking up the sides. The sea is let into them occasionally, and they are generally well stocked with excellent fish of the mullet kind.”

“We went into the house of the head man, and asked him to collect the people together, as we wished to speak to them about the true God. He sent out, and most of the people of the village, then at home, about two hundred in number, soon collected in his house, which was large, where Mr. Thurston preached to them.”

“They appeared gratified with what they had heard, and pressed us very much to spend the day with them. We could not consent to this, as we had travelled but a short distance since leaving Honuʻapo.”

“As we left Hilea, our guide pointed out a small hill, called Makanau, where Keoua, the last rival of Kamehameha, surrendered himself up to the warriors under Kaʻiana, by whom he had been conquered in two successive engagements.” (Ellis)

(In the late-1700s, this area served as the summer home of Keoua, the last chief of Kaʻu and as the district’s capital in an insurgent war with Kamehameha.)

(Many of Keoua’s forces had been killed by Keonehelelei (“the falling sands” – the explosive eruption of Kilauea in 1790. (Moniz-Nakamura) Keoua formally surrendered to Kamehameha at Puʻukohola Heiau; there, Keoua was attacked and killed by Keʻeaumoku, one of Kamehameha’s chiefs.)

Hīlea, in Kaʻu was the birthplace of Kohaikalani. He was the most important chief on the island and reigned in royal state at Hīlea.

He ordered the construction of a heiau situated on the great plain of Makanau (‘surly eyes,’) a high promontory, about three miles from the shore.

All men in the district were conscripted to transport stones from Koloa beach at Ninole. They formed a human chain and passed the stones up to the site in baskets. The kapu (taboo) for building such a structure was strict. Not a word could be spoken. If a stone dropped, it could not be picked up. This work took several weeks. (Orr)

Thrum suggests that the pebbles for the pavement of the heiau came from the shore of Kawa. When much stone had been collected, two kahuna (priests) arrived to supervise the erection of the structure. (Rechtman)

As it was the custom in the olden days to worship fishes, birds, stones or wood, Kohaikalani wished to have a wooden god to worship. Kohāikalani was living in the upland of Hīlea.

The kahuna told the people, “It is clear that your chief intends when this temple is completed to offer your bodies as sacrifice. Hence, when he commands you to bring an ʻōhiʻa tree to be used in the building, you must tell him to select one for himself and that you will then help him pull it up here. In this way you may save your lives.” (Keala Pono)

After building the heiau the men were ordered to fell an ʻohiʻa tree for an image. There was a very steep pali to climb. They had to carry up the god on the side towards Ninole, which was best adapted to the execution of their plan.

“The god will never reach the summit of the pali,” said the kahuna, “if the Chief continues to walk before him. The god ought to go first, by right of power, and the Chief below and after him, to push at the lower end, otherwise we will never succeed in overcoming his resistance.”

Kohaikalani complied with the advice of the kahuna, placed himself under the god, and pushed him from below. Instantly the Priests and people dropped the rope, and the huge idol, rolling upon the Chief, crushed him in an instant. They attribute the death of Kohāikalani especially to the Priests. (The Friend, May 1, 1865)

Kohaikalani Heiau consisted of a rectangular structure with walls 4.5 to 5.5-feet high on the inside and 6.5-feet on the outside. The interior pavement of the heiau was covered with ʻiliʻili (sea-worn pebbles.) (Walker)

The heiau was visible to Stokes during his evaluation of Hawaiʻi heiau (1901-1919;) however, later destroyed when sugarcane was planted there.

As you drive this area of Kaʻū, you can look up the side of Mauna Loa and see Makanau, the tabletop hill.

Better yet, April 24- May 3, 2015, Kaʻū Coffee Festival will be celebrated at various venues in Kaʻū; events include star gazing from Makanau summit. The image shows Makanau.

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Makanau