Isaac Davis | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

May 18, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

‘Īao

Some might feel the point of establishing a State Monument at ‘Īao Valley is to call attention to the much-photographed ‘Īao Needle – it was traditionally known as Kūkaemoku (literally ‘broken excreta.’)

The 1,200-foot-tall ‘Īao Needle (“cloud supreme”) is a basaltic core that remained after the valley’s heavy rainfall washed away the weaker stones surrounding it.

Actually, what people see is a bump on a side-ridge on the right-side of ʻIao Valley with a large protrusion that sticks up on top; it looks like a ‘needle’ of rock, but really isn’t (it’s part of the ridge).

Rainfall from Pu‘u Kukui, the summit of West Maui – at nearly 5,800-feet in the back of ‘Īao Valley, has an average annual rainfall of 364-inches per year.

Of course, this natural feature is interesting and important; but here are some other pieces of history that make ‘Īao even more important in the history of Hawai‘i.

First, the distance past.

From the highest peak of Pu‘u Kukui to the shoreline of Kahului Bay, the ahupua‘a (land division) of Wailuku was a favorite place of Ali‘i and a ruling center of Maui. ‘Īao Valley is part of the ahupua‘a.

For centuries, high chiefs and navigators from across the archipelago were buried in secret, difficult-to-access sites in the valley’s steep walls.

‘Iao Valley became a “hallowed burying place for ancient chiefs” and is the first place mentioned in the historical legends as a place for the secret burials of high chiefs. (Thrum)

Because this was sacred ground, commoners were not permitted to enter the valley, except for the Makahiki festival.

Some suggest the last burial was in 1736, with the burial of King Kekaulike.

Then, in the late-1780s into 1790, Kamehameha conquered the Island of Hawai‘i and was pursuing conquest of Maui and eventually sought conquer the rest of the archipelago.

At that time, Maui’s King Kahekili and his eldest son and heir-apparent, Kalanikūpule, were carrying on war and conquered O‘ahu.

In 1790, Kamehameha travelled to Maui. Hearing this, Kahekili sent Kalanikūpule back to Maui with a number of chiefs (Kahekili remaining on O‘ahu to maintain order of his newly conquered kingdom.)

After a battle in Hana, Kamehameha landed at Kahului and then marched on to Wailuku, where Kalanikūpule waited for him.

The ensuing battle was one of the hardest contested on Hawaiian record. The battle started in Wailuku and then headed up ‘l̄ao Valley – the Maui defenders being continually driven farther up the valley.

Kamehameha’s superiority in the number and use of the newly acquired weapons and canon (called Lopaka) from the ‘Fair American’ (used for the first time in battle, with the assistance from John Young and Isaac Davis) finally won the decisive battle at ‘Īao Valley.

Arguably, the cannon and people who knew how to effectively use it were the pivotal factors in the battle. Had the fighting been in the usual style of hand-to-hand combat, the forces would have likely been equally matched.

The Maui troops were completely annihilated, and it is said that the corpses of the slain were so many as to choke up the waters of the stream of ‘l̄ao – one of the names of the battle was “Kepaniwai” (the damming of the waters.)

Maui Island was conquered and its fighting force was destroyed – Kalanikūpule and some other chiefs escaped over the mountain at the back of the valley and made their way to O‘ahu (to later face Kamehameha, again; the next time at the Battle of Nu‘uanu in 1795.)

After the battle at ‘Iao, Kamehameha received Keōpūolani as his wife. Kamehameha left for Moloka‘i to secure it under his control, before proceeding to O‘ahu.

Then, in 1795, Kamehameha moved on in his conquest of O‘ahu.

Today, ‘Iao Valley State Monument is operated under DLNR’s State Parks system. It is at the end of ‘Iao Valley Road (Highway 32.) Free parking for Hawai‘i residents, $5 per car for others (open 7 am to 7 pm.)

A paved walking trail provides a scenic viewpoint of Kuka’emoku; a short paved loop trail meanders through an ethnobotanical garden adjacent to ‘Iao stream.

“‘lao stands without rival, as the loveliest spot in these tropical isles placed in the midsummer sea, or as Mark Twain has lovingly called it, ‘The loveliest fleet of islands that lie anchored in any Ocean’ …”

“… for seek throughout the four corners of the lands of the Kamehamehas, you will never find a place with such incomparable environment of lofty peaks, giant lehua trees, with blossoms of rosy hues glistening in the glare of the noonday sun, and deep canyons through which the mighty waters run down, as here in lao.” (Field)

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Iao Valley from Wailuku-1900s

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April 13, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kalolopahū

For a period of five years from the time of Cook’s landing at Hawai‘i, the waters of the islands were busy with ships, some of which were “friendly” and others that were “bent on destroying men and governments”. (Kamakau)

In 1789, Simon Metcalf (captaining the Eleanora) and his son Thomas Metcalf (captaining the Fair American) were traders; their plan was to meet and spend winter in the Hawaiian Islands.

The Eleanora arrived in the islands first at Kohala on the island of Hawaiʻi. After a confrontation with a local chief, Metcalf then sailed to the neighboring island of Maui to trade along the coast. On February 1790, the Eleanora anchored off of Honua‘ula.

Kalola, the widow of Kalani‘ōpu‘u, was staying at Honua‘ula at the time of the arrival of the ship with her new husband Ka‘opuiki.

Captain Simon Metcalf anchored his trading ship the Eleanora off shore, probably at Makena Bay, to barter for necessary provisions.

“Ka‘opuiki was glad to go on board to trade for iron, muskets, and red cloth; but muskets were the objects he most desired. The people brought in exchange hogs, chickens, potatoes, bananas, and taro.”

“Night fell before they had finished their bargaining, and the next day Ka‘opuiki and others went out again to trade further; but the strangers were unfriendly and beat them off with ropes.”

“When Ka‘opuiki heard from the people of Honua‘ula about the small boat which it was customary to keep tied to the back of the ship, he determined to steal the boat at night.”

“At midnight when the guard on the skiff and the men of the ship were sound asleep, Ka‘opuiki and his men cut the rope without being seen from the ship. As they were towing it along, the guard awoke and called out to those on board the ship, but he was too far away to be heard; he was killed and his body thrown into the sea.”

“The boat was taken to Olowalu and broken up, and the iron taken for fishhooks, adzes, drills, daggers, and spear points.” (Kamakau)

Metcalf sailed to Olowalu but found that boat had been broken up for its nails. (Nails were treasured like gems in ancient Hawaiʻi; they were used for fishhooks, adzes, drills, daggers and spear points.)

Chiefess Kalola, knowing the explosive nature of the situation, declared a three-day kapu on all canoes approaching the Eleanora.

When the kapu was lifted and Kalola’s husband Ka‘opuiki returned only the stolen boat’s keel and the watchman’s stripped thighbones, an enraged Metcalfe invited the villagers to meet the ship, indicating he wanted to trade with them.

However, he had all the cannons loaded and ready on the side where he directed the canoes to approach. “(T)he ship opened fire and shot the people down without mercy, just as if they were creatures without souls. Even those who swam away were shot down.”

“John Young was an eyewitness on board the ship and has testified to the great number who were killed at this time. At noon that day the Eleanor sailed, and the people went out and brought the dead ashore, some diving down into the sea with ropes and others using hooks; and the dead were heaped on the sands at Olowalu.”

“Because the brains of many were oozing out where they had been shot in the head, this battle with the ship Eleanor and her captain was called “The spilled brains” (Kalolo-pahu).”

“It was a sickening sight, as Mahulu and others have reported it; the slaughtered dead were heaped upon the sand; wives, children, parents, and friends came to view and mourn over their dead; and the sound of loud wailing arose.” (Kamakau)

After the massacre, Metcalfe weighed anchor and sailed back to the island of Hawai’i.

This tragedy, termed the Olowalu Massacre, set into motion a series of events which left two Western seamen and a ship (the Fair American) in the hands of the ambitious Big Island chief Kamehameha.

John Young (off the Eleanora) and Isaac Davis (off the Fair American) befriended Kamehameha I and became respected translators and his close and trusted advisors. They were instrumental in Kamehameha’s military ventures and his ultimate triumph in the race to unite the Hawaiian Islands.

Several months after the massacre at Olowalu, Kalola watched the Great Battle of Kepaniwai from ʻIao Valley. Kamehameha stormed Maui with over twenty thousand men, and after several battles Maui troops retreated to ʻIao Valley.

Kalola escaped through the Olowalu Pass and down to Olowalu, where she boarded canoes for Molokai. On the island of Molokai Kalola became ill and they could not carry out their original intention of going to Oahu to join Kahekili.

Kamehameha followed Kalola to Molokai and asked Kalola for Keōpūolani (Kalola’s granddaughter) to be his queen. Kalola, who was dying, agreed to give Kamehameha Keōpūolani and her mother Kekuiʻapoiwa Liliha, if he would allow the girls to stay at her death bed until she passed.

Kamehameha camped on Molokai until Kalola died, and then returned to Kona with his high queen Keōpūolani. Later, both Liholiho (Kamehameha II) and Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III) were sons born to Kamehameha and Keōpūolani.

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Olowalu-Ahupuaa

February 18, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

How John Young and Isaac Davis Came to Hawai‘i

John Young (British) and Isaac Davis (Welsh) became two of the closest advisors to Kamehameha I.

In 1789, Simon Metcalf (captaining the Eleanora) and his son Thomas Metcalf (captaining the Fair American) were traders; their plan was to meet and spend winter in the Hawaiian Islands.

The Eleanora arrived in the islands first; John Young was boatswain on the Eleanora. In Kohala on the island of Hawaiʻi, Metcalf was greeted by local chief Kame’eiamoku.

Metcalf believed in strong and immediate punishment when his rules were broken. By most accounts he was snappish and harsh.

Because of some infraction, Metcalf had the chief flogged. Metcalf then sailed to the neighboring island of Maui to trade along the coast.

Kame‘eiamoku vowed revenge on whatever ship next came his way.

By coincidence, the Fair American was the next ship to visit the territory of chief Kame‘eiamoku, who was eager for revenge. Isaac Davis was a crew member of the Fair American.

On March 16, 1790, the Fair American was attacked by Kameʻeiamoku’s warriors at Puako, near Kawaihae, Hawaii.

The schooner was manned by only four sailors, plus its relatively inexperienced captain. It was easily captured by the Hawaiians.

Kame‘eiamoku appropriated the ship, its guns, ammunition and other valuable goods, as well as the only survivor, Isaac Davis. They turned the Fair American and Davis over to Kamehameha.

Unaware of the events and fate of the Fair American, the Eleanora returned from Maui and arrived at the Big Island; Captain Simon Metcalf sent John Young ashore to see the country.

That evening, as Young attempted to return to his ship, Kamehameha’s forces detained him (Kamehameha had placed a kapu on anyone going on the ship.)

Young was captured and Metcalf, unaware, was puzzled why Young did not return.

Metcalf waited two days for Young to return, firing guns in hope that the sound would guide Young back and sending a letter to foreigners ashore.

Finally, sensing danger or becoming frustrated, Metcalf departed and set sail for China (abandoning Young,) not knowing that his son had been killed not far away.

Kamehameha befriended Young and Davis, who became respected translators and his close and trusted advisors. Their skill in gunnery, as well as the cannon and other weapons from the Fair American, helped Kamehameha win many battles.

John Young and Isaac Davis were instrumental in Kamehameha’s military ventures and his eventual conquest and unification of the Hawaiian Islands.

The image, reportedly the oldest surviving document from Hawai‘i in the Hawai‘i State Archives is the letter, dated March 22, 1790, written by Captain Simon Metcalf, addressed to four foreigners living there at the time (coincidently, one was also named John Young) – demanding the return of John Young and threatening revenge.

It reads, “As my Boatswain landed by your invitation if he is not returned to the Vessel consequences of an unpleasant nature must follow, (to distress a Vessel in these seas is an affair of no small magnitude) if your Word be the Law of Owhyhe (Hawai‘i) as you have repeatedly told me there can be no difficulty in doing me justice in this Business, otherwise I am possessed of sufficient powers to take ample revenge which it is your duty to make the head Chief (Kamehameha) acquainted with.”

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February 15, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Honolulu, 1810

This reconstructed map (from Bishop Museum Press,) reportedly a reasonably accurate depiction of Honolulu in 1810, is based on three documents:

John Papa ʻĪʻī recorded the location of trails and various sites in Honolulu between 1810 and 1812 in his “Fragments of Hawaiian History;” a sketch map made by lieutenant Charles Malden of HBMS Blonde in 1825; and a government road map of 1870.

The map notes locations of uses in 1810 with subsequent road alignments as of 1870 – the present day street alignments are generally similar to the 1870 road alignments.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. For me, maps and pictures capture moments in time and, in doing so, tell us stories. I love maps, especially old ones, because of the stories they tell.

This map tells lots of stories. Here are highlights on some.

The first thing that jumps out at you is the timeframe and location of the map – 1810 in Honolulu.

As you will recall, 1810 marks the ultimate unification of the Hawaiian Islands.

It was here, in 1810, at Pākākā (the point jutting into the harbor,) where negotiations between King Kaumuali‘i of Kaua‘i and Kamehameha I took place – Kaumuali‘i ceded Kauaʻi and Ni‘ihau to Kamehameha and the Hawaiian Islands were unified under a single leader.

This time and place marks the beginning of the unified islands. This location continues to be the center of commerce, government, finance, etc in the State.

A bit more history: Kamehameha I, who had been living at Waikiki since 1804, moved his Royal Center there in 1809. His immediate court consisted of high-ranking chiefs and their retainers.

Those who contributed to the welfare and enjoyment of court members also lived here, from fishermen and warriors to foreigners and chiefs of lesser rank. (Kamehameha’s home and surrounding support uses are noted with his name (adjoining Pākākā.))

In those days, this area was not called Honolulu. Instead, each land section had its own name (as noted on the map.)

There are reports that the old name for Honolulu was said to be Kou, a district roughly encompassing the present day area from Nuʻuanu to Alakea Streets and from Hotel to Queen Streets, which is the heart of the present downtown district.

Honolulu Harbor, also known as Kuloloia, was entered by the first foreigner, Captain William Brown of the English ship Butterworth, in 1794. He named the harbor “Fair Haven.”

The name Honolulu (meaning “sheltered bay” – with numerous variations in spelling) soon came into use.

As you can tell by the overlaying 1870 road map, it is obvious that following this timeframe, the fringe reefs noted on the map were filled in and land added to the water front. (In 1810, the waterfront was along the present Queen Street.)

Between 1857 and 1870 a combination of fill and dredging formed the “Esplanade” (not labeled on this map (because it’s over the reef) between Fort and Merchant Streets, creating the area where Aloha Tower is now located.)

In 1907, the reefs fronting the Kakaʻako area (on the right of the map) were filled in to make Fort Armstrong.

Fort Street, one of the oldest streets in Honolulu, was not named for Fort Armstrong; it was named after Fort Kekuanohu (aka Fort Honolulu,) constructed in 1816 by Kamehameha.

Today, the site of the fort is generally at the open space now called Walker Park, a small park at the corner of Queen and Fort streets (there is a canon from the old fort there) – (Ewa side of the former Amfac Center, now the Topa Financial Plaza, with the fountain.)

The left section of the map (where Nuʻuanu Stream empties into the harbor) identifies the area known as Kapuukolo; this is “where white men and such dwelt.”

Of the approximate sixty foreign residents on O‘ahu at the time, nearly all lived in the village, and many were in the service of the king.

Among those who lived here were Don Francisco de Paula Marin, the Spaniard who greatly expanded horticulture in Hawaiʻi, and Isaac Davis (Welsh,) friend and co-advisor with (John Young (British)) to Kamehameha. (The Marin and Davis homesites are noted on the map.)

The large yam field (what is now much of the core of downtown Honolulu) was planted to provide visiting ships with an easily-stored food supply for their voyages (supplying ships with food and water was a growing part of the Islands’ economy.)

This map, and the stories it tells, gives us a glimpse into Hawai‘i’s past.

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February 3, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lucy Peabody

Lucy Peabody was the daughter of a prominent island family, Dr and Mrs Parker Peabody, who settled on the island of Maui early in the last century. (Honolulu Star Bulletin, August 10, 1928) She was born January 1, 1840 at Luaehu, Lahaina, Maui.

“Miss Lucy Peabody (was) a Hawaiian of rank revered by us all, and one deeply learned in the lore of her native country.” (Damon) She was from a high ali‘i family and descendants of Isaac Davis, the British seaman, who along with John Young served as an adviser to Kamehameha I, in his attempts to unite the Hawaiian Islands. (NPS)

Davis and Young became great favorites of King Kamehameha, “especially when he had become apprised of the fact that they were experts in the handling of firearms, the use of which was unknown in Hawaii at that period. The day was fast approaching when the fate of two young people would be a matter of great importance.”

Davis “gained the sanction of the sovereign to wed a Hawaiian lady of rank. They had two daughters and a son. The elder daughter became the wife of an Englishman of later arrival, Captain Adams, owner of valuable properties in Honolulu and adjacent districts. Her sister was married into the royal family of Kauai, but unfortunately died without issue.”

“Hueu, the son, married the high chiefess Kaanapilo of the Waimea line of chiefs, who raised a large family of eight sons and daughters, from which Miss Lucy Peabody (is) descended.”

“So the adventures of these enterprising Englishmen ensued not only in distinction and affluence for themselves, but in highest positions for some of their posterity – notably, one as Queen Emma of revered memory, and another as daughter-in-law of a king.” (Pratt) Peabody’s mother was Elizabeth K Davis, a granddaughter of Isaac Davis. (Kanahele)

“Peabody herself was prominent among the entourage that accompanied Queen Emma on the latter’s well documented sojourn to Kauai in 1871, shortly after the queen inherited the Lāwa‘i ahupua‘a from her uncle, James Kanehoa Young, and his third wife, Kinoni.” (Griffin)

Peabody, “four years Emma’s junior, was a high chiefess who served as one of Emma’s maids-of-honor” (Kanahele) and was the queen’s life companion. (NPS)

Peabody was active in the Hui Hawaii Aloha ‘Āina (Hawaiian Patriotic League). “The object of this association is to preserve and maintain, by all legal and peaceful means and measures, the independent autonomy of the islands of Hawai‘i nei …”

“… and if the preservation of our independence be rendered impossible, our object shall then be to exert all peaceful and legal efforts to secure for the Hawaiian people and citizens the continuance of their civil rights.” (Hawaiian Gazette, March 21, 1893)

“Invited are the Men, the Women, and all the young people of the Hawaiian Patriotic League (Hui Aloha ‘Āina,) and all friends, to go immediately with great enthusiasm and festivity to fill the meeting with numbers of Twenty and more thousand people.”

“(T)he Woman’s Hawaiian Patriotic League and the Hawaiian Patriotic League (sent) out by special messengers to every district in the Hawaiian Islands petitions against annexation for signature by Hawaiian citizens in order that the people’s will may be accurately ascertained as a plebiscite is not at present to be permitted by the Annexation Oligarchy.” (The Independent, September 13, 1897)

Their 556-page petition totaled 21,269-names, 10,378-male and 10,891-female. Of these 16,331 adults were adults and 4,938-minors. (The petition is now stored at the US National Archives.)

Lucy Peabody, resurrected and re-chartered the ‘Ahahui Ka‘ahumanu on June 14, 1905 at Kawaiaha‘o Church. “The ‘Ahahui was originally chartered on August 8, 1864 by Princess Victoria Kamāmalu, Chiefess Lydia Kamaka‘eha Dominis, crowned Queen Lili‘uokalani in 1891, and Chiefess Bernice Pauahi, who later became Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop.”

“The society was named ‘Ka‘ahumanu Society’ after Princess Victoria’s aunt, Ka‘ahumanu, Kūhina Nui of the Hawaiian Kingdom under Kamehameha the Great. … Unfortunately the group disbanded two years later in the fall of 1866 after the unexpected passing of the young Princess Kamāmalu.” (Ka‘ahumanu Society)

“Edgar Henriques and Miss (Lucy) Kalani Davis (Peabody’s niece) were quietly married at the home of Miss Lucy Peabody, Vineyard street, last evening [June 10, 1898], the Rev. Alex. Mackintosh officiating. Only the relatives were present. The newly married couple have gone to Waikiki for their honeymoon.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, June 24, 1898)

Lucy Peabody shared the vision with her niece of improving healthcare in North Hawaii. “When Lucy Peabody died (August 9) 1928, she left a 12-acre parcel of land in Waimea – Makahikilu – to … Lucy Henriques. Upon her death in 1932, Lucy Davis Henriques left Makahikilua and $100,000 in her will to fulfill the dream the two cousins had shared during their lifetimes.”

“Throughout the years, the trust funds, administered by Bishop Trust Company, grew significantly. When probate was completed in the 1960s, funds were appropriated for feasibility studies. Preliminary plans were drawn up for a 120-bed acute-care facility, the Northern Hawaii Hospital, but the timing was not right.”

“The population of the Big Island was not large enough to support a full-service acute-care facility in Waimea. So in 1969, Lucy Henriques Medical Center, Inc (LHMC), was chartered as a non-profit corporation responsible for ensuring outpatient medical care for the communities of North Hawaii – the place and its people that were so loved by Lucy Peabody and Lucy Henriques.”

When North Hawaii Community Hospital (NHCH) opened in 1996, the adjoining Medical Center simultaneously opened a brand new nine-bed renal dialysis unit to complement the new array of inpatient and outpatient services available to the community. In 1999, NHCH and LHMC merged to create the entity we see today. (NHCH)

Click HERE for a performance of ‘Lucy Peabody’ (Portrayed by Karen Kaulana) at Mission Houses Cemetery Pupu Theatre (sorry it is dark.)

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