In 1899, Herbert, William, Jack and Edgar Young were at Catalina Island; the year, before they started taking fishing parties out daily and conducting excursions to the coral gardens.
Some suggest this was the beginning of charter fishing; likewise, this marked the beginning of the famous glass-bottom boat rides which were to prove of such great interest and profit at Catalina.
Then the Hawaiian Islands attracted their attention, and, as William put it, they “went with high hopes and the spirit of a pioneer toward strange lands and all the beauty of sky and sea in the blue Pacific.” (Herb and William were headed to Hawai‘i.)
On January 9, 1900, we sailed out of Golden Gate toward the Great adventure …”
“The Surprise, a two-masted schooner-equipped with one of the first gas engines of considerable horsepower – under the command of Captain Bray, was headed for the Hawaiian Group to engage in inter-island trade, serving the Kona Sugar Co., of Kailua – a most promising business.”
“Although there was then no actual tourist trade, which has of late years assumed such importance in Hawaii, all ships on their way to or from the Orient and Australia made Honolulu a port of call, and the harbor in 1900 was always a veritable forest of masts so that mooring was at a premium.”
“In fact, from twenty to thirty additional ships were always anchored in ‘Rotten Row,’ from where the chanteys of the windlass crews sounded out, floating across the smooth water to shore.”
“Herb was chief engineer aboard the Surprise while J served before the mast. It was a pleasant trip. Harry Wharton, later captain, was first mate; an Englishman, Harry, was the other sailor, but the real character was Tom, the cook, who fed us so much salt beef that the salt came through our pores and stuck to our shirts in the sun.”
“On the trip to Honolulu Herb would sit by me in the evening as I stood my trick at the wheel. The deepening glory of the Pacific sunset, as the ship rose and fell on a lazy ocean, tinted every spar and line and sail with colors that surpassed any we had ever seen back home in coastal waters.”
“Night after night we talked, in the dusk as the stars came out and the Southern Cross hung in the sky, of Hawaii, the Paradise of the Pacific. Captain Bray, a bluff, good-hearted skipper if I ever met one, told us yams of the Islands and described them as the most marvelous place a man could imagine.”
“For years we had heard tales of Hawaii; now at last we were to see it for ourselves. Every passing hour, every wave curling under our bows brought us so much nearer, and the eyes of youth, straining ahead of the ship, seemed almost to glimpse a palm-fringed shore where life was gay and living carefree.”
“Singularly enough, for the first time since I had become fired with the ambition to hunt sharks. I found myself giving little thought to the possibilities of shark fishing among the Islands.”
“The prospect of seeing and living in these elysian isles had unceremoniously overshadowed my original purpose in going there. I was, to put it mildly, all anticipation.”
“Yet no sooner had we set foot on Hawaiian soil than the old urge flared up again. Wherever I went I found the subject one of absorbing interest to all hands …”
“… but I soon discovered that, as usual, no one knew anything about sharks except rumors, legends and the apocryphal yarns of sailors who needed no encouragement to tell how they had outswum, tricked, caught or killed one or more sharks in desperate hand-to-fin encounters.”
“In fact, so avid was my quest for authentic information that I soon became known as ‘Sharky Bill,’ which name identifies me still in many ports and among many seafaring people.”
“At last, on January 19, after a fine voyage, we Sighted Honolulu. The green shores. the white beach and coral formations, the boats of the Kanakas, the town rising at the harbor edge to be lost in the verdure of the tropical plants …”
“… the great forest of masts and spars in the harbor, the clear water and brilliant coloring of everything within eyeshot made a picture that the years could not dim. Here at last was the land of my dreams, the real El Dorado, the place which one may leave, but to which he will always return, the enchanting isles where there is no good-bye, but only Aloha.”
“We dropped anchor at quarantine and stood on deck, silently, in wonder at the natural beauty of the island. Would our dreams come true here?”
“At the very outset it seemed that our plans were to lead only to disappointment. We could not even go ashore. Honolulu was under quarantine for bubonic plague. People had been dying off like flies and supervision was strict.”
“The night before our arrival one of the dilapidated thatched hovels in Chinatown had been burned by order of the authorities to rid the neighborhood of contagion, and the fire had been permitted to spread unchecked.”
“Chinatown was a smoldering mass of ruins where only a short time before dirty streets had been peopled with touts, women of easy virtue, hop-heads, smoke eaters, thieves, and beggars.”
“Honolulu had rid herself of a festering sore, and the populace was living in detention camps already built on the outskirts of the town. It was the end of an era.”
“We conferred on the situation. Obviously, if we landed we would be quarantined along with everybody else, and there was no telling when we might be free to make our start in trade among the islands.”
“Herb and I had just seventy-five dollars between us, which wasn’t very much. It had to last until we were able to find some new occupation. The decision was easy as we were in no danger of starvation aboard the Surprise, and we could still have our jobs there.”
“So, for the next three months we plied between Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, and Kailua, on Hawai‘i, a total distance of perhaps 150 miles.”
“If there happened to be a lumber shipment in Honolulu harbor for another port quarantine restrictions forced us to pick up floating lumber. Any cargo such as machinery was transferred from a lighter alongside our ship, but not before it was thoroughly sprayed with strong disinfectant.”
“But away from the danger zone we could land on any island, enjoying to the full the thrill of exploring a new land which was beautiful far beyond anything we had ever imagined.”
“Once we came very near losing not only our liberty but our ship and cargo. Harry, the mate, complained one evening of a swelling in the groin, high fever and all the symptoms of the dreaded plague.”
“It was sailing night, and any minute we expected the quarantine doctor to come aboard in order to give us our ‘pratique,’ or medical clearance. Visions of the authorities burning ship, cargo and all our effects rose before us. Yet there was nothing we could do except wait and see what happened.”
“Finally he climbed over the side. The crew, cook, captain, all lined up for critical inspection. Harry was last in line, feeling pretty low. But the swift tropical twilight came on in time to hide the feverish flush of his cheeks.”
“The doctor, impatient, scarcely gave him a glance, and signed clearance. What a relief! At nightfall we set sail and luck was with us again, for the mate’s ailment was not bubonic, but a localized infection which passed off after a few days.” (Younger brother Jack (my grandfather) arrived in October 1900.)
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