Ainahau | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

March 6, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

March 6, 1899

“It has been a strange life, really, and a very romantic one.”

On October 16, 1875, a child was born to Princess Miriam Likelike (the youngest sister of King Kalākaua) and Archibald Cleghorn. The child, the only direct descendant of the Kalākaua dynasty, was named Victoria Kawekiu Kaʻiulani Lunalilo Kalaninui Ahilapalapa.

On March 9, 1891, Princess Victoria Kaʻiulani Cleghorn was duly appointed and proclaimed heir apparent to the Hawaiian throne.

Kaʻiulani inherited 10-acres of land in Waikīkī from her godmother, Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani. Originally called Auaukai, Princess Likelike (Kaʻiulani’s mother) named it ʻĀinahau; Princess Kaʻiulani spent most of her life there.

The stream that flowed through ʻĀinahau and emptied into the ocean between the Moana and Royal Hawaiian Hotels (where the present Outrigger Hotel is located,) was called ʻApuakehau (the middle of three rivers that used to run through Waikīkī.)

The family built a two-story home on the estate. At first the home was used only as a country estate, but Princess Kaʻiulani’s family loved it so much, it soon became their full time residence.

Sadly, Kaʻiulani died, March 6, 1899.

The New York Times obituary (March 18, 1899) read, “Princess Kaʻiulani died March 6 of inflammatory rheumatism contracted several weeks ago while of a visit to the Island of Hawaii.”

“The funeral of the Princess will occur on Sunday, March 12, from the old native church (Kawaiahaʻo,) and will be under the direction for the Government. The ceremonies will be on a scale befitting the rank of the young Princess.”

“The body is lying in state at ʻĀinahau, the Princess’s old home. Thousands of persons, both native and white, have gone out to the place, and the whole town is in mourning. Flags on the Government buildings are at half mast, as are those on the residences of the foreign Consuls.”

Kaʻiulani had gone to the Waimea on the Big Island to visit Helen and Eva Parker, daughters of Samuel “Kamuela” Parker (1853–1920,) grandson of John Parker (founder of the Parker Ranch.) (When his grandfather died, in 1868, Samuel (at the age of 15) inherited half the Parker Ranch, with his uncle John Palmer Parker II (1827–1891) inheriting the other half.)

While attending a wedding at the ranch, Princess Kaʻiulani and the girls had gone out riding horseback on Parker Ranch; they encountered a rainstorm. Kaʻiulani became ill; she and her family returned to O‘ahu.

Tragically, after a two-month illness, Kaʻiulani died at ʻĀinahau, at age 23.

Kaʻiulani became a friend of author Robert Louis Stevenson. He had come to Hawaiʻi due to ill health. In his writings, Robert Louis Stevenson endearingly recalled that Princess Victoria Kaʻiulani was “…more beautiful than the fairest flower.”

He was a frequent guest and used to read passages of poetry to the young Princess under the banyan tree. Reportedly, the first banyan tree in Hawaiʻi was planted on the grounds of ʻĀinahau.

As many as fifty peacocks, favorites of the young Princess, were allowed to roam freely on the grounds.

Prior to her departure to study abroad, Stevenson wrote a farewell poem to the princess in her autograph book:

“Forth from her land to mine she goes,
The Island maid, the Island rose;
Light of heart and bright of face:
The daughter of a double race.

Her islands here, in Southern sun,
Shall mourn their Kaʻiulani gone,
And I, in her dear banyan shade,
Look vainly for my little maid.

But our Scots islands far away
Shall glitter with unwonted day,
And cast for once their tempests by
To smile in Kaʻiulani’s eye.”

A notation in Stevenson’s poem book further noted, “Written in April in the April of her age; and at Waikīkī, within easy walk of Kaʻiulani’s banyan!”

“When she comes to my land and her father’s, and the rain beats upon the window (as I fear it will,) let her look at this page; it will be like a weed gathered and pressed at home; and she will remember her own islands, and the shadow of the mighty tree …”

“… and she will hear the peacocks screaming in the dusk and the wind blowing in the palms; and she will think of her father sitting there alone.”

It is said that the night Kaʻiulani died, her peacocks screamed so loud that people could hear them miles away and knew that she had died.

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Princess Kaiulani at approximately 6 years old, standing, framed by window-1881-600

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October 4, 2017 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Gertrude Gardinier

“I found out very early that I could be as naughty as I liked with my nurses and I enjoyed that very much, because I was naturally naughty, I suppose.”

“I remember that I envied my friends very much and I envied the children of the servants, who did quite as they pleased, even more. Then I can remember a quite new sensation which came to me when I found out that they also envied me. That was a very delicious feeling.”

“It served to give quite a new taste to life and I was not lonely for a long while after that. It came about in this way. I had a friend, a very jolly, careless little girl, and one day when we had been playing together we went up into my bedroom and she threw herself down on my bed.”

“I remember how my nurse rushed at her across the room, ‘How dare you,’ she said, and she took hold of her roughly and pulled her to the floor. ‘Sit there!’ she said, ‘that is the place for you.’”

“‘The little girl went home and I thought about it a long time. I never had seen my nurse angry and it made a great impression on me. ‘Why is the floor the place for her?’ I asked, and my nurse said, ‘Because.’”

“‘That didn’t seem a very good answer and then I asked, for the first time I think, ‘Why shouldn’t people touch me or use my things or sit on my chair or on my bed?’”

“‘And my nurse said, ‘Because you are a Princess and the others are not.’ ‘Is it very nice to be a Princess?’ I asked, and my nurse said that it was the nicest thing in the world except to be a Queen, and after that, although I was glad I was a Princess, I always wanted to be a Queen.’”

“‘Always?’ ‘Yes always,’ answered Kaiʻulani. ‘Why shouldn’t I tell the truth about it? I was mad with joy when the news of the proclamation declaring me heiress to the kingdom reached me abroad.’”

“‘I said to myself like a little girl, ‘Now some day I shall be a Queen.’ And meantime, after the Queen, I would come first in the kingdom. I thought my heart would break when I heard that the monarchy was overthrown, and I had all a girl’s disappointment, and I think all a Queen’s. I had wanted to be a good Queen some day.” (Kaʻiulani, The Call, August 7, 1898)

First Miss Barnes, then Miss Gertrude Gardinier, and later Miss de Alcald served as governesses to Kaʻiulani.

Kaʻiulani’s governess, Miss Barnes, of whom the family was very fond, died unexpectedly in 1883. Replacements were tired, but the arrival of Gertrude Gardinier from New York changed that.

Kaʻiulani’s mother, Likelike, approved immediately and the ten-year-old Kaʻiulani and Miss Gardinier took to each other immediately.

In 1885, Gardinier wrote to her parents noting, “She is the fragile, spirituelle type, but very vivacious with beautiful large, expressive dark eyes. She proves affectionate; highly spirited, and at times quite willful, though usually reasonable and very impulsive and generous.” (Zambucka)

“Miss Grandinier’s lessons were always so lively. We would awaken early, and then take breakfast out on the lanai – veranda – to enjoy the bright morning sunshine.”

“I always like a cup of rich, hot coffee, by Miss Gardinier insisted that I also drink fresh milk each day. At times, I know she thought me frail, and she was sure the milk would make me more robust.”

“Then we would read and write, and she would teach me about history. Names and dates and places that I would try very hardtop imagine. The music lessons were my favorite. Our family was fond of music.” (Kaʻiulani; White)

“Miss Gardinier said it was important for me to concentrate on my studies, because one day I will be called upon to rule our people, and I must be a wise and learned Queen.”

“In the afternoons, after my rest, we would often attend social engagements. These are many skills I need to learn, so that I will be able to receive and greet people properly, and be a gracious hostess.”

“Miss Gardinier and I used to discuss God a great deal. Then we would read the Bible. I have so many questions, but the Reverend says that all of the answers in the world as in the Good Book.”

“Mama once told me that when the missionaries first came to Hawaii, our people called the Bible ‘God in a little Black Box.’ You see, it was the only book they had ever seen.” (Kaʻiulani; White)

Gardinier remained at ʻĀinahau as Kaʻiulani’s governess until the day of her wedding to Mr Albert Heydtmann in May 1887. (Zambucka)

On a later visit to, now, Mrs Heytmann, Kaiʻulani noted, “I wish everything was the way it used to be.” Gertrude Heytmann responded, “I know, but you are very strong, Kaʻiulani. You will not only survive these changes, but you will thrive.” (White)

“Miss Gardinier – oh how I miss her! – always told me my moods changed like the tropical winds. I confess that I was often very willful with her, and I am sorry now, but such fun we had!” (Kaʻiulani; White)

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August 1, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

ʻĀinahau Fire

“One of the biggest screen attractions offered to Maui this season is coming next week, the Aldrich Production, ‘The Black Lily.’ Manager Ross received announcement of the offering by wireless this morning. He expects that Mr Aldrich and Mrs Peggy Aldrich will be here at the same time.”

“As yet the mainland has had no chance to see this Hawaiian production. … It has been shown in Honolulu and was received with favor and followed by exceptionally flattering newspaper criticisms.”

“Peggy Aldrich is well known among the screen stars and as a producer Mr Aldrich has been successful. He has taken numbers of motion pictures of the Islands on other stays here before he purchased a home in Honolulu, knows the Islands and Island life and the ‘Black Lily’ is said to be one of the best Island plays ever screened.”

“Another Hawaiian feature is added, ‘Sonny’ Cunha in ‘Poi or Bust’ in which the Hawaiian musician seeks to rival Roscoe Arbuckle as a comedian.” (Maui News, May 27, 1921)

Aldrich zipped in and out of Hawaii to film travelogues, gather entertainers, and then return to the mainland to tour the results. He was a favorite of Hawaiʻi tourism business groups such as the Ad Club. He traveled across the mainland to theaters small and large showing his Hawaii travelogue supported by live entertainers, Aldrich’s Imperial Hawaiians.

His shows advertised Hawaii, correcting common erroneous beliefs (No, there is not an active volcano in Honolulu). In a letter to the Advertiser, Aldrich boasted his film and troupe reached 1 million people in a few months. He touted 400,000 viewers in greater Chicago. (Elks)

“William F Aldrich, adventurer, artist, globe-trotter, has done in celluloid what the old masters did with brush and oil. To say that he is a motion picture cameraman would be as much an error as to call Rembrandt a photographer.”

“With his camera he brings to the screen in glorious proportions the wonders of the universe. No beaten path he follows, but from the queer out-of-the-way places brings to live on the screen the romance of people and environments which we of this prosaic business world would meet only in books.” (Promotional brochure)

“William F Aldrich, a member of the expedition sent out by the Peter Pan Film Corporation to photograph the world, made an exceptionally interesting bit of motion picture history when he risked death in photographing the interior of the crater of Kilauea, Hawaii’s active volcano.”

“Numerous efforts to accomplish this feat have met with defeat, and Aldrich’s efforts are said to have netted the Peter Pan company the best photographic record of this boiling lake of flaming lava, which will be introduced in the fourth episode of ‘The Honeymooners,’ Peter Pan’s scenic serial.”

“The successful filming of the sputtering crater of Kilauea was accomplished by Aldrich on October 5. He wore a gas mask similar to those in use in European warfare, reinforced by a leather cap that covered all of his face except his eyes.”

“He made the descent of three hundred feet of almost perpendicular cliff to the inner edge of the lake of lava, and set up his tripod with the seething liquid earth licking at his shoes.”

“After completing his task Aldrich climbed out of the bowels of the earth and removing his fantastic headgear said: ‘It’s just like going to hell.’” (Motography, November 10, 1917)

It was an unfortunate later fire that also involved Aldrich; one August night, Aldrich, the “movie picture man,” was having dinner when his wife yelled “Fire!”

He ran to the room where the gas heater stood and saw flames. Neighbors tried to help by beating them out with cloths. A fire truck was summoned from Kaimukī, but the pin holding together the steering gear fell out and the truck crashed into a fence. By the time help arrived, the building count not be saved. (Cultural Surveys)

“With great difficulty the flames were prevented from spreading to adjacent buildings. Sparks were carried to the roof of the Moana Hotel by the high wind.” (Maui News, August 5, 1921)

“Historic ʻĀinahau, at Waikiki, was totally destroyed by fire August 2d (1921,) together with most of its furniture and fittings, on which $15,000 insurance was carried.” (Thrum)

“Historic ʻĀinahau, home of the wide lanais and lofty palms, rendezvous of Honolulu society in the reign of King Kalākaua, and haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson in his Hawaiian days, is gone. “

“The age old coconut trees which surrounded the famous palace were torches of remembrance, flaming high into the tropic night long after ʻĀinahau had become only a ghost among its glowing embers, but today they are charred stumps around blackened ruins.”

“Cleghorn, who survived both Princess Miriam Likelike and their daughter, died only a few years ago. His wish was that the estate might be preserved to posterity as a public monument, but the government did not see fit to accept the gift, and the property was cut up into building lots.”

“The palace itself, after a brief career as a hotel, passed into the hands of WF Aldrich, the moving picture producer, who, with his wife, “Peggy” Aldrich, had a rather close call last night when the place burned.” (Gessler, The Step Ladder, October 1921)

“For two or three years ʻĀinahau had been used for the developments of films depicting life in the Hawaiian Islands and from its dark rooms went forth celluloid impressions of Hawaii that have been displayed upon the screens of movie houses across the mainland” (The Garden Island, August 9, 1921)

“Mr. Aldrich plans to build on the property a model Hawaiian village of grass huts for the entertainment of visitors and the use of motion picture companies in filming Hawaiian scenes.”

“The Stevenson banyan was badly damaged, but it is expected to survive.” (Gessler, The Step Ladder, October 1921)

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William F Aldrich

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May 9, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

ʻĀinahau Hotel

“’Have you seen the Cleghorn Gardens?’ is a frequent question to the malihini, and only another way of asking if one has seen the gardens of the late Princess Victoria Kaʻiulani, lovely hybrid flower of Scottish and Polynesian parentage, daughter of a princess of Hawaiʻi, Miriam Likelike (sister of Liliʻuokalani and Kalākaua) and the Honorable Arthur Scott Cleghorn.”

“We are too late by twenty years to be welcomed by Likelike, and eight years behind time to hear the merriment of Kaiulani in her father’s house Kaʻiulani, who would now be of the same age as Jack London.”

“The famous house, ʻĀinahau, is not visible from the Avenue. Here the bereft consort of Likelike lives in solitary state with his servants, amid the relics of unforgotten days. He receives few visitors, and we felt as if breaking his privacy were an intrusion, even though by invitation.”

“But the commandingly tall, courtly old Scot, wide brown eyes smiling benevolently under white hair and beetling brows, paced halfway down his palm-pillared driveway in greeting, and led our little party about the green-shady ways of the wonderland of flowers and vines, lily ponds and arbors, ‘Where Kaʻiulani sat,’ or sewed, or read, or entertained all in a forest of high interlacing trees of many varieties, both native and foreign.”

“I was most fascinated by a splendid banyan a tree which from childhood I had wanted to see. This pleased the owner, whose especial pride it is ‘Kaʻiulani’s banyan’ … Into nurseries and vegetable gardens we followed him, and real grass huts that have stood untouched for years.”

“And the house. The portion once occupied by the vanished Princess is never opened to strangers, nor used in any way. Only her father wanders there, investing the pretty suite of rooms with recollection of her tuneful young presence.” (Charmaine London, June 29, 1907)

Princess Kaʻiulani inherited 10-acres of land in Waikīkī from her godmother, Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani. Originally called Auaukai, her mother named it ʻĀinahau; Princess Kaʻiulani spent most of her life there.

The family built a two-story home on the estate. At first the home was used only as a country estate, but Princess Kaʻiulani’s family loved it so much, it soon became their full time residence.

Miriam Likelike passed away at ʻĀinahau 12-years before Kaʻiulani herself passed in 1899; Cleghorn lived until 1910 and also passed away there.

“ʻĀinahau, the beautiful residence and park at Waikiki, formerly the home of Governor Cleghorn, has become the property of the public, the will of the late governor, filed for probate yesterday, bequeathing the property to the public use as a park, to be known as Kaʻiulani park, after his daughter the late Princess Kaʻiulani.” (San Francisco Call, November 20, 1910)

“Mr. Cleghorn … felt that he held ʻĀinahau in a sort of trust, to preserve it for the memory of Kaʻiulani, and indirectly also of Likelike.” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, April 16, 1913)

“A bill to accept the fine gift passed the senate in 1913 but was killed in the house, and it was admitted at the time that some of the heirs under the will had joined in fighting against the acceptance bill.” (Honolulu Star-Bulleting, September 23, 1913)

“The deal by which the property was leased was completed yesterday. The name of the lessee is withheld at this time, but it was learned that local persons are interested in the project.”

“On the first of July the buildings already on the estate will be opened as a hotel. The buildings include one large structure, five cottages and one grass house. … The lease is made for a short period of time, with the privilege of extension. It includes the entire area of beautiful ʻĀinahau.” (Honolulu Star-Bulletin, June 21, 1913)

Mrs EH Lewis rented the property from the Cleghorn estate and operated the property as ʻĀinahau Hotel from 1913 to 1917.

“The ʻĀinahau, with its waving, coconut trees, stately palms and winding roads and paths, has always been known as one of the most beautiful and romantic spots in Honolulu.” (Honolulu Star-Bulleting, September 23, 1913)

“The ʻĀinahau Hotel has its entrance opposite the Moana and is not on the beach, but in the beautiful tropical jungle which was the residence of the late AS Cleghorn, father of the deceased Princess Kaʻiulani. This is also on the cottage plan, and accommodates 75 guests. American plan $1.50 to $2.50 per day; $40 to $75 per month.” (The Aloha Guide, 1915)

“ʻĀinahau is entered by a roadway opposite the Moana Hotel at Waikiki and was the residence of the late AS Cleghorn, father of the former Princess Kaʻiulani.”

“Mr. Cleghorn, upon his death in 1911, devised ʻĀinahau to Honolulu as a public park specifying certain conditions, among them that it should be closed after 6 pm.”

“Using this as a pretext, the legislature of 1913 rejected the gift, the city being now the poorer for it, for here tropical trees, plants, vines and shrubbery abound in such profusion and luxuriance as to offer wonderful opportunities for parking.”

“The property is now operated as a hotel, the numerous cottages being used for the purpose. The large banyan tree growing in front of the main building was a favorite retreat of Robert Louis Stevenson while he sojourned here.” (The Aloha Guide, 1915)

Then, newspaper accounts noted, “ʻĀinahau, the beautiful home of the late Governor AS Cleghorn at Waikiki and the spot perhaps best loved by Robert Lewis Stevenson of any place on the islands, will soon be only a memory, for it has been sold to James W Pratt and other interests and will immediately be cut up into building lots.”

“The price of the land, which comprises 11 2/3 acres, was $60,000. It is the plan of Mr. Pratt to subdivide the estate into 40 lots and make it an exclusive and one of the most beautiful residential districts in Honolulu.” (Honolulu Star-Bulletin, January 19, 1917)

Shortly after, ads started getting posted in the local papers, “For sale – Entire furnishings of ʻĀinahau hotel, 40 bedroom sets, billiard and pool tables, etc.” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, March 26, 1917)

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November 15, 2015 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Archibald Scott Cleghorn

Thomas Cleghorn and Janet Nisbet of Scotland had five boys: Thomas Davis, William Edinburgh, Alexander Nisbet, John Inglis and Archibald Scott. In 1840, they immigrated to New Zealand, and then moved to the Islands.

After arriving to Honolulu in 1851, Thomas Sr set up a dry goods store in Chinatown, but within the year, at the age of 54, he suffered a fatal heart attack while on his way home from church.

Archibald took over his father’s business and turned it into one of the most successful mercantile chains in the islands. (Fahrni)

He first married Elizabeth Pauahi Lapeka and they had three daughters: Rose Kaipuala Cleghorn (married James William Robertson,) Helen Manuʻailehua Cleghorn (married James Boyd) and Annie Pauahi Cleghorn (married James Hay Wodehouse.) (Geer, Fahrni)

On September 22, 1870, Archibald married Princess Likelike. She was the sister of a King and Queen – and the daughter of High Chief Kapaʻakea and Chiefess Analeʻa Keohokālole – her sister became Queen Liliʻuokalani and her brothers were King Kalākaua and William Pitt Leleiōhoku.

The wedding was held at Washington Place, the residence of Governor Dominis and Princess Liliʻuokalani. The Cleghorns had one child Kaʻiulani (born on October 16, 1875) – “the only member of the Royal Family having issue.” (Daily Herald, February 3, 1887)

ʻĀinahau, their Waikiki home was said to have been the most beautiful private estate in the Hawaiian Islands. A driveway between rows of stately palms led to the gracious pillared mansion set in a grove of 500 coco palms. Artificial lakes dotted with pink water lilies, and statues found here and there, added to the charming grounds.

Continuing his father’s love of horticulture, Archie also became known as Hawaiʻi’s Father of Parks and served as Oʻahu Parks Commissioner; he was landscaper for ʻIolani Palace.

Archibald is also responsible for the spectacular gardens of the ‘ʻĀinahau estate, where he planted several varieties of plants, shrubs and trees, including Hawaiʻi’s first banyan, which became known as ‘The Kaʻiulani Banyan’. (Fahrni)

In addition he was the lead landscaper for Kapiʻolani Park. Kapiʻolani Park was dedicated on June 11, 1877 and named by King Kalākaua to honor his wife, Queen Kapiʻolani. It was the first public park in the Hawaiian Islands.

Characterized from the beginning as “swamp land in a desert,” Kapiʻolani Park became a park specifically because it wasn’t considered suitable for anything else, and because of its peculiar climate – it’s one of the few places on Oahu where rain almost never falls.

Archibald and Likelike deeded land at Kaʻawaloa to Major James Hay Wodehouse, Her Britannic Majesty’s Commissioner and Consul General for the said Kingdom of the Hawaiian Islands, for a monument in memory of Captain Cook. (Thrum)

Cleghorn served in the House of Nobles from 1873 to 1888, and the Privy Council from 1873 to 1891. He succeeded Prince Consort John Owen Dominis upon his death in November 1891, until February 28, 1893 as Royal Governor of Oahu.

He also served as the first President of The Queen’s Hospital, a member of the Privy Council, the Board of Health, the Board of Prison Inspectors, the Board of Immigration and the president of the Pacific Club (his downtown Honolulu home eventually became the home of the Pacific Club – Kaʻiulani was born there.)

Cleghorn (November 15, 1835 – November 1, 1910) died of a heart attack at ʻĀinahau. He was buried in the Kalākaua Crypt at Mauna Ala, the Royal Mausoleum.

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